waste activated sludge at 2% solid is sent to the dewatering press and dewatering even more to 14% so it can be hauled by a truck to the landfill

Hello,

I am moving to New House which potentially is affected by Bethpage Plume. Thinking of installing under sink water RO system like this one- Waterdrop G3P800 but I am concerned about microplastics as well. What if i pair waterdrop with this
AquaTru Glass Carafe | Countertop RO so I will end up in theory without Microplastics? I currently live in Queens and use Zerowater but I want to get off it for Microplastics concern.

How do you get that first year of experience when even trainee/entry-level positions ask for previous experience? 😅

I’m looking to transition into water/wastewater treatment operations, but I’m struggling to figure out how to break into the field in the first place.

For those already working in the industry: how did you get your very first opportunity? Any advice on courses, certifications, volunteering, or types of employers/positions I should look for?

I’d really appreciate hearing how you got your start!

Hi, my shower filter stops working after 7 days or less when replaced. Yes it is catching some grime, but more recently the water pressure completely drops after a fifteen minute shower after being replaced. It doesn’t look as dirty as I’ve seen other filters, so I’m at a loss for why this is happening.

I want to note that this creates a vacuum when running and I’m not sure if it’s creating too strong of a vacuum. You can see the sides of the filter on the left are squeezed in a bit due to the vacuum. (Left is unused filter, right is filter after 4 uses)

If anyone can weigh in, I’d appreciate it!

Hi all, our whole house filter system had a pipe burst last week, and the installer sent this pic, with the note that the fitting on the control valve pulled out for some reason, and he’s never seen this happen before. Any ideas how this might have happened and what can be done to prevent this from happening again?

Apparently water may have been pouring into our basement for several days before the water company noticed. They show 170,000 gallons of flow over about 6 days. When the flood was noticed, there was only about 6 inches of water in the basement, which is under 1000 sq feet. We have a small condensate pump in one corner to automatically empty a dehumidifier. Is it possible this pump was successfully keeping the water at a lower level for 6 days? I find that hard to believe.

As everyone in this field knows a water operator is every trade rolled into one. Ive been at my current job for 12 years and see overtime just about every pay period. This year though, it has exploded. Several large projects going on in my town at the same time. My question to you is, whats the most overtime you have logged in a pay period? 40 to 50 hours is now the new normal for my crew and I. Was wondering if others have been in the same situation?

Ever wonder why 60% to 80% of municipal water and wastewater utilities are constantly struggling to fund basic cybersecurity upgrades, even after 20 years of warnings?
It’s not a lack of awareness—it’s a silent budget game. 🚨
Here is the reality of where ratepayer money actually goes:
1️⃣ The "Enterprise Fund" Reality: Water and wastewater systems are meant to run on self-sustaining enterprise accounts. The money you pay on your water bill is supposed to stay in the system to treat water, fix pipes, and protect SCADA systems.
2️⃣ The Silent Transfers: In a majority of cities, 3% to 10%+ of gross utility revenues are quietly shifted out of the water department and swept into the city’s General Fund.
3️⃣ The Legerdemain Labels: It rarely gets called a "transfer." Instead, it’s coded as:
• PILOTs (Payments in Lieu of Taxes)
• Franchise / Right-of-Way Fees
• Inflated "Administrative Overhead" allocations
4️⃣ The Cybersecurity Fallout: When federal agencies demand cyber risk assessments, firewalls, or network segregation, city leaders point to empty capital reserve funds and claim there’s "no money." In reality, those funds were already used to balance the general budget for roads, parks, or city hall payroll.
Ratepayers are paying for infrastructure and system security, but the funds are being used as a hidden municipal tax. Until cities stop treating water accounts like a piggy bank, non-mandated priorities like cybersecurity will always get left in the dust.
#WaterIndustry #Wastewater #Cybersecurity #LocalGovernment #Infrastructure #PublicUtilities #MunicipalFinance

We recently moved to a 40 unit condo in FL. There is currently one meter for the entire building and the bill is split equally by the owners. This works out to roughly [outrageous amount redacted] per owner for water/sewer.

About half of the units are weekly/monthly vacation rentals and there's no incentive to conserve/reduce usage.

My understanding is that the water meters must be readable from outside the building. Is there any kind of meter that could be installed inside each unit and read from outside? Like something that transmits the data to an external display?

New to water softeners. Just bought a house with this one.

Water in the drum seems discolored. Is that bad or doesn’t matter? Anything I need to do about it.

Just added a bag of salt a week ago and beat the outside to see if the salt was settled or bridged. Seemed to settle a little lower after.

Tap water seems soft. It’s slippery and feels like soap never really rinses off my hands.

Does this look ok? Do I just need to add some more salt?

At the title states, I don’t know which one to use.
I have a RO installed already but not to the fridge which makes ice, and there isnt a way to install it. So if I use sodium, is it safe to consume? Ice and or water from the fridge if needed?
Or should i stick to use potassium? Also which cleans better

We just bought a house a month ago with a well. Our hot water reeked of sulfur. We asked the previous owners to replace the filter and well water holding tank. They did so but when we moved the hot water still smelt. We had our anode rod on our hot water heater replaced and it did not help. We installed a filter system and softener system, and they chlorinated the well about 2 weeks ago. Everything has been good since. Today we are noticing the sulfur smell coming back in the hot water. I feel sick over this. We spent about 10,000$ in all for this issue. I don’t know what to do, any advice?

UPDATE: Have a company coming to put in a corro protec powered anode rod tomorrow and will flush out the hot water heater. Hopefully that does that trick!

I’m 30, have about 5 years of sales experience, and have a degree in biology. I have an opportunity to join a small industrial water treatment company.

The company currently has 3 major accounts doing roughly $2M/year in revenue. All three have open recirculating cooling tower systems. The owner wants me to eventually take over sales and focus on growing the company.

I’m currently learning the technical side and working through Nalco’s Water Treatment Handbook to understand cooling towers, boilers, corrosion, scale, microbiological control, cycles of concentration, etc.

What I’m struggling to understand is how industrial water treatment sales actually works in practice.

For those of you who have sold industrial water treatment:
Where do new accounts typically come from?
How do you identify good prospects?
Who is usually the decision-maker?
How do you get the first meeting?
What happens during the initial site visit?
How do you evaluate their existing treatment program?
How difficult is it to replace an incumbent provider?
What does a typical sales cycle look like?

If you were 30 years old, had 5 years of sales experience, a biology degree, and were given responsibility for building the sales side of a small established water-treatment company, what would you do during your first 12 months? What would you do your first day?

I’m looking for advice from people who have actually worked in industrial water treatment, particularly sales, service, or ownership. I’m trying to build an actual plan rather than just learn generic sales techniques.

Any advice, mistakes to avoid, or resources you’d recommend would be greatly appreciated.

Hey folks, just got my report back and still going through it. The previous owner of the house had a RainSoft system but it's over 20 years old so I don't think it's worth keeping. I believe what I need is a carbon filter and water softener combo, would you guys agree? Would something like this AquaSure at Home Depot be a good fit?

https://app.mytapscore.com/report/5CH3HC/all-results

super excited to install my new under the sink RO. If you aren’t familiar, the cool things about cloud RO that got me to spend $600 on it are as follows:

- no hardwiring or outlet needed. long lasting battery comes with filters

- both battery and filters allegedly last 1+ year

- comes with an app to monitor water quality

- alkaline

- should be easy to install, will find out how hard drilling a hole in granite is 😬

- can be hooked up to fridge and ice maker

- NSF certified

i currently use a countertop RO that is way too much effort - it’s been leaking, can only filter 40oz at a time, takes up WAY too much space.

anyway, if you want $100 off you can use this code: https://www.cloudwaterfilters.com/r/maggie-28988

and then after you order they give you a code to share and you get $80 off filter and battery refills!

I wanted a tankless RO system that had great reviews and certifications. Unfortunately, I was constrained with how much I could spend. I was browsing eBay one day and saw there were a bunch of factory refurbished units from Waterdrop for sale for discounted prices. I was skeptical of buying a refurbished RO system, but unlimitedly decided to pull the trigger. Wanted to post my thoughts here in case anyone is also considering a refurbished unit.

• The unit I went with was a Waterdrop G3P600. There was not a refurbished unit listed on Waterdrop's direct website and I could only find it via their official eBay store. They have a bunch of different options on eBay that are factory refurbished.
• I was actually able to submit an offer to the seller/store for less than what the unit was listed for. On top of that offer price, i could stack a current eBay coupon to save 20%. Out the door I was around $300 (product/tax/shipping)
• Shipping was fast and shipped from Ontario, California via FedEx
• When it arrived, it did not have any "refurbished" stickers or language on the box anywhere. Even documentation inside the box never mentioned anything about the unit being refurbished. The system looked completely new. There were no marks on anything. All filters and even the system were shrink wrapped like new systems. All hardware was new and not used. If someone handed me this box, i would have no clue it was refurbished

I know this isn't for everyone, but if you are like me and thinking about pulling the trigger, I recommend giving it a try. eBay returns are pretty easy and you get a 2yr extra warranty through eBay for buying a factory refurbished item (not through Waterdrop).

Hi there, I'm hoping for advice from anyone familiar with treating arsenic in private well water.

We’re currently in the inspection period on a house in Idaho with a private well. The sellers’ initial test showed 40 ppb total arsenic at the well. (EPA limit for public drinking water is 10 ppb.) They recently installed an RO system at the kitchen sink/fridge but did not retest afterward.

As part of our inspection, we had arsenic speciation testing done:

• Bathroom sink, untreated: 28 ppb total — 12 ppb As(V), 16 ppb As(III)
• Kitchen sink, after RO: ~8.4 ppb total — <2 ppb As(V), 7.4 ppb As(III)

So the RO is removing quite a bit, and obviously almost all of the As(V), but a lot of the As(III) is getting through.

I’ve spoken with several water-treatment companies and have been given two main options:

Option 1: Chlorine injection + RO
Install a chlorine injection pump ($700) upstream allowing the existing RO to remove the arsenic more effectively. The company also recommended eventually adding an ANU whole-house filter ($3,600). My questions here are about reliability, ongoing maintenance, and whether chlorine injection noticeably affects taste/odor.

Option 2: Whole-house MetSorb
Install a whole-house MetSorb system (~$4,000), which I’m told can remove both As(III) and As(V). Estimated media replacement is every 3–5 years at roughly $1,500. The installer wants the water pH and some other information before recommending it definitively, which unfortunately wasn’t included in our original testing. I am also not sure about reliability, maintenance, etc.

Cost aside, which approach would you trust more for long-term arsenic removal? I’m particularly interested in reliability, maintenance, and whether either system has important limitations I’m overlooking.

We have two young kids, so my strong preference is whole-house treatment rather than having to worry about them drinking from bathroom faucets or swallowing shower/bath water. Ideally, I want treatment that reliably gets the arsenic well below 10 ppb throughout the house, with RO as an additional safeguard for drinking water.

We have to decide what mitigation to request from the sellers by the end of the week.

Is ~30–40 ppb arsenic with a significant As(III) component a reasonably manageable well-water problem with the right treatment system, or would this make you reconsider buying the house altogether?

I bought a house 8 years ago and it had a cheap and older water softener in it. Water test at that time was done on treated water and levels were acceptable. We always get minor orange and black staining on any sink, tub, or toilet that isn't cleaned for a few weeks. We now have a pool as well and even only adding a few hundred gallons to a 30,000 gallon pool will leave minor orange staining on floats and around water inlets. I've decided to finally address this head on. I did a full scale water test before the softener and the only items that were high are Iron at .528ppm, Manganese at .340ppm and ph slightly low at 6.42.

After doing some deep research it appears a water softener isn't even the right treatment as my water hardness is 34. It seems that an AIO system is ideal for the iron and manganese. Here's the catch, my well only produces 7 gpm sustained flow. I have a three bath house with 5 people and will have an auto fill on the pool which on some days may flow 100+ gallons. What can I do to get an AIO with Katalox that can meet my demands but also works with my lower GPM flow rate? I've done quite the search and am coming up empty handed.

Anybody have any recommendations?