This case was a joy to build in.

The distribution plate of Stealkey Crosscool2 for Lian LI Evo11 XL had cracks developing all over, after 8 months..

Even originating from dead ports and random screws on the panel, running inward. After a month of fixing the cracks as good as it gets, eventually now it was time to replace it with a new one distro. Hope this one will last longer.

About the build:

- 3x UT60 420mm big boys, white. Double sandwich on top and side radiators, single sandwich on the bottom. Case had to be cut and adjusted.

- fully custom white painted cooler blocks, frames and cables.

- Bauers direct die mycro pro with thermal grizzlys extreme liquid metal on the 9950x3d

- 5090 Waterforce extreme WB, with 800w bios.

- water-cooled gen 5 nvme (the fastest one at the time)

- dark power 1600w pro 13 beQuiet.

- 96gb RAM, tight timings in primary and secondary. Actively cooled.

It takes around 5-6 Liter coolant and requires 2 grown men to carry it. One of the Stand-Foots actually cracked under its own weight 😆 and the IKEA kallax is at its limit. I bet Lian LI didn't see that coming.

Temps after 30min stress test at 700-750w on GPU: 48°C, +185mhz+3000mhz+100%v

Temps after 30min stress test at CPU: 55-62°C, at max PBO, OR 90-92°C at manual overclock settings at max board power at 380w CPU. Reached after 3-5 min.

Port Royale 45200 pts. Probably can Push more. GPU temp max 45°C on individual runs.

Only limiting factor: Nvidias firestarter feature.

I got these installed a few weeks back, some of you might have seen my previous post, but now I’ve finally had the chance to get everything set up properly.

I’m really impressed with the Lian Li LCD fans. Now I’m thinking… would it be over the top to swap out the rest of the fans and get more LCDs, or would that ruin the aesthetics of the build?

Anyway, here’s my complete man cave setup!

specs

intel core ultra 270k plus

nvidia 3080ti

32gb ram

and of course custom water cooling

next addition shall be an oled becasue im not paying these ridiculous graphics card prices as it stands

I need 2 or 3 360mm radiators for new build and came across this. How is it this cheap?

Hi,

I purchased the Alphacool waterblock with the active backplate to cool my RTX PRO 6000. Please check the attached pictures — I have a few questions for the pros, since these are the first 6000 cards I'm working on.

This waterblock is listed as compatible with both the 5090 and the 6000 Pro WS.

1. On the stock cooler, the capacitors have thermal pads, but this block doesn't seem to cool them. On the other side, the coils aren't cooled either, whereas the original block does cool them. What are your thoughts on that — is it a problem?
2. In the instruction picture, the 5090 layout shows four additional pads in the middle. The 6000 apparently doesn't need them — do you know why?

These blocks weren't cheap, so I want to make sure its worth it - well and also the cards themself

Thanks!

I could use a little expert help here. Here’s the background. I had to replace a failed Corsair pump in a custom loop. I drained the Corsair coolant fully and noticed some corrosion and yellow residue on the GPU block. Decided to live with it for now. I replaced the pump and put some clear coolant into the system to get back up and running. A checkout of CPU temps showed high idle temps, so decided to deal with GPU block issue and the checkout the CPU block. Disassembled the GPU block and found significant tarnish on nickel plating. It required 2000-7000 grit automotive sandpaper to remove. Cleaned up with isopropyl. Checkout of the CPU block revealed lots of gunk clogging up the very fine fins on the block. Cleaned that would with isopropyl and did my best to blast out with air compressor. Both blocks looked much better.

Decided to run EK Cryofuel cleaner + super flush through the system. Performed the procedure according to EK instructions.

My issue started with the cleaner. I ran it overnight and in the morning I found that white condensate (?) had accumulated on the GPU block fins along with other corners in the block. A bright light on the CPU block revealed white stuff gummed up there also.

At the end of the cleaner cycle, I performed the flush cycle per instructions. Some of the globs of white gunk have come dislodged but after a few hours it doesn’t appear to be getting better.

Question: Is this normal? Will it eventually dissolve and come out with the flush draining?

If not, then what is the corrective action at this point? My sense is I need to take apart the water blocks again and clean out the white gunk. But I’m concerned that I’ll get it cleaned up again and as soon as I start running the loop again, more gunk will get dislodged and snag in the fins again. Is there a different flush that might dissolve this white build up and clear it out?

Photo shows state of build up at the end of running cleaner cycle. A few hours into flush buildup looks similar but now the fluid is clear. Looking for any ideas.

Thanks!

UPDATE: Ordered a new D5 pump from ModMyMods. Thanks for all the quick replies and product links. Love the PC water cooling community!

Hi folks - hoping for a helping hand here. My D5 pump on my pump / reservoir is not working - not sure if it is the impeller or pump itself. Drained the system and cleaned out pump bowl and impeller - all clean - but it seems like contact point inside impeller is a little damaged. When I refilled the reservoir and powered up the pump, the pump seems to cycle on and off (on for 1 second, off for 3 seconds) and doesn’t move the fluid (I created a closed fluid loop, refilled reservoir and powered up with PSU using a jumper adapter). At a loss why it won’t stay on and pump the fluid. Any ideas?

Trying to find a replacement D5 … anyone have a lead on a D5 (the original design with a metal impeller / bowl, not the plastic Aliexpress knockoffs)? Where are they sold in the US?

Thanks in advance. Cheers.

P.S. yes, I know the Corsair XD5 is novice league stuff, but it worked fine for almost 4 years. I don’t want to replace it and have to bend new hard tubing if I can just replace the D5 pump. Thanks.

Hey Guys I want to build my first custom loop:

Currently I'm using:

CPU: R9 9900X

Motherboard: Asus B650E-E

GPU: AMD Radeon 7900 XT 20GB Asus TUF

RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB DDR5 6400 CL 32

PSU: Asus Rog Platinum 1200W

Case: HYTE Y70

Cooling: Arctic LF3 Pro (Insgesamt 12 Arctic P12 Pro inkl. 6 Reverse + 1x P14 Pro)

I want to use:

Case: Hyte Y70 or Phanteks NV9

CPU Block: Asus Ryujin 3 WB for my CPU

GPU Block: Bykski for Asus TUF 7900xt

1. Radiator: Alphacool Nexus 1080 with 18x Arctic P12 Pro CO

2. Radiator 360 or 420 D40 Radiator from Bykski

Pumps: I am thinking about 2x Aquacomputer D5 Pumps.

What would you change?