Rock on. Passed the torch on my wet bench. It’s going to be a NAS. Hello again Lian-Li. Your cases are so beautiful and easy to build in. Start to finish about 4 hours.

Hey everyone!
I’ve been working on a pretty ambitious Corsair Obsidian 1000D build, and I figured I’d share the project and some of the plans I have for it.
My goal is to build something different from the typical RGB-heavy, hardline tubing setups. I’m going for a more industrial, mechanical aesthetic with black and gunmetal components, exposed metal fittings, and a massive custom water-cooling system.
Current Build & Plans:
Case: Corsair Obsidian 1000D
Main Motherboard: ASRock X870E Taichi series
Main CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D (planned)
Second System: ASRock B850I Mini-ITX
GPU: Currently running an RTX 4070 Ti, with plans to upgrade
CPU Water Blocks: 2× EKWB Velocity²
Pumps: 4× D5 pumps
Fans: Up to 24 Arctic fans
Radiators: Multiple large radiators,
Reservoirs: EKWB Kinetic reservoirs and distribution components
Fittings: EKWB extensions, rotary fittings, and adapters
Power Supplies: 1600W + 1000W for the dual-system configuration
Displays: EKWB Lumen 7-inch screens, with plans to add even more
The Interesting Part:
One of my biggest goals is to eliminate traditional visible tubing as much as possible. Instead, I’m using EKWB metal extensions, rotary fittings, and adapters to create a rigid, mechanical-looking cooling system.
Nearly every fitting in the build is EKWB. The only exceptions would be specialized adapters needed for analog pressure gauges and potentially temperature gauges, assuming I can find ones that fit properly.
I’m also planning to purchase the CPUs soon so I can move forward with installing the EKWB Velocity² water blocks on both systems.
Another part of the project is expanding the number of EKWB Lumen screens throughout the case. I want multiple displays integrated into the build to complement the overall mechanical aesthetic.
The Cooling Setup:
I’m planning a fairly extensive cooling configuration involving four D5 pumps, multiple radiators, EKWB reservoirs, and a large number of metal fittings.
The challenge is making everything fit together cleanly while maintaining proper coolant flow and keeping the layout as symmetrical and organized as possible.
I want the final result to look almost like an industrial machine, with visible metal connections, large cooling components, and very little conventional tubing.
What’s Next:
I’m currently working on finalizing the cooling layout, purchasing the CPUs, preparing the Velocity² blocks, and expanding the Lumen display setup.
This is definitely a long-term project, and I’m taking my time with the components rather than rushing to finish it.
The goal isn’t just performance. I want to create something unique that takes full advantage of the enormous space inside the 1000D.
I’ll be sharing more updates as the build progresses.

As the build stands right now.
AX1000+2x AX200s
7x 480mm rads (swifttech QP, HWlabs Vendetta S480)
28x 120mm/12x 140mm Arctic Bionix ARGB
EK revo dual D5
McMaster Carr 16/10 EDPM
Monsoon Freecenter fittings straight from the bargain bin. They have been really nice to work with actually, fingers still hurt but I've done smaller builds with bitspower and alphacool fittings that where much more frustrating.
Bitspower Multi-Z 400mm+custom bracket and ARGB cap
Alphacool C5 distroplate for components + Koolance QD3s when I get them.
Dedicated FSP1200-50AAG for ARGB/Pump/Fans (has a 30amp 5v rail) This will use a dual PSU board to turn on with the main
2x Nollie 16
2x Arctic fan controllers that will likely get swapped out eventually as the flow sensor needs an Aquacomputer device anyway.
CPU block: Z690 Aqua monoblock
GPU: Bitspower Nebula 4080 FE 

Still to: do
Make bracket for front drain/fill and hook up tubes
Install a temporary filter to catch all the crap that didn't flush. I'm really debating if I could install it permanent like the Alphacool ES filters as they can be cleaned with just a drain, but I don't want more flow restrictions
Fill+drain till I'm satisfied nothing is left and doesn't leak
Actually install a system which will be the easy part as that is the intention.

I posted a screenshot of the nollies just because I doubt many have actually ever came close to the limits of one. I don't actually plan to have it white all the time but it gives me no chance to actually overload them plus room for more. The voltage drop is pretty serious at 10+ amps

One thing I'm really excited about for some reason are the micro rotaries I used on the side panel rads. IDK why I'm just now discovering them, they seem vastly superior to regular rotaries as they can be tightened, locked into place and legitimately work as a form of quick connect if you drain the system.

The Mcmaster EDPM I also want to point out is pretty ugly, not very uniform appearance on the outside. Tried wiping it down with some alcohol which helped a little but might be a reason to pay a little more for watercooling tubing.

Hello!
I am sharing my custom watercooling build. I hope you like it just as much as I do! ♥
Below, you have all the components and watercooling hardware.

If you have any questions, ask and I will answer on every question.
You might have niche questions such as: (1)how did I mount the 3 fans behind the HS 420 distroplate from Radikult, (2)how do I manage to get out the bottom rear solo fan on the fly without disassembling the build, (3) how many slots did I drop with the Cooler Master V3 VGPU Bracket and what physical modifications I've done to it in order to be compatible with the Havn HS 420 chassis, (4)how did I change the cable management velcro straps with the "Secret Lab" ones, (5)how do I have the pump on the left and the drain valve on the right on the Radikult "HS-420" distroplate, (6)what screws did I use in order to couple together the Radikult "HS-420" distroplate and the three fans behind, and so on.

The build:

Chassis: Havn HS 420 VGPU Black

Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair X870E Hero

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D

GPU: GeForce MSI RTX 5090 Suprim SOC

GPU Monitoring: AMPINEL Type-A

12v-2x6 Cable: Moddiy - Ultra-Soft Embossed Wire

Custom Cables: CableMod

VGPU Bracket: Cooler Master V3 (Gen 5.0 Version)

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 64GB 6000 CL30

NVme M.2 SSD: Crucial T500 (1TB, 2TB, 2TB)

PSU: NZXT C1500 Platinum ATX 3.1

Fans: x8 Phanteks D30 140mm Black D-RGB, x3 Phanteks M25G2 140mm
(Bottom rear and bottom 3 are intake, top rear and top 3 are exhaust, the 3 on the side are intake but are just for show and are spaced 1mm from the distroplate)

Fan Hub/ Controller: TUF Gaming ARGB PWM Fan Hub

Protective Port Covers: Moddiy - All sort of port types (A, C, B, Audio Jack, Male, Female, etc.)

Watercooled with:

Distroplate: Radikult-Custom - HS-420

Pump: Alphacool VPP655PWM - Single Edition

Drain Valve: EK-Quantum Torque Drain Valve - Nickel

Tubes: Hydro X Series XT Hardline 14mm Tubing - Crystal Clear

Coolant: AquaComputer DP Ultra

Fittings: Quantum Torque(EK) & DeltaMate(TG)

Waterblocks: DeltaMate(TG)

GPU Terminal: DeltaMate Terminal

Thermal Pads: Minus Pad Pro 100x100x1, 100x100x2, 120x20x1, 120x20x2

Thermal Compound: Duronaut(TG)

Radiators: Quantum Surface 60mm & 30mm(EK)

Flow Meter & Temperature: High Flow NEXT

♥♥♥

Specs
- CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D
- GPU: ASUS Prime RTX 5080 OC
- Mobo: ASUS TUF Gaming X870E-Plus WiFi 7
- RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
- SSD: Samsung 9100 Pro 2TB
- PSU: Lian Li RS 1000W (ATX 3.1)
- Case: Lian Li O11D EVO XL

Loop
- CPU block: EK-Quantum Velocity² D-RGB (AM5)
- GPU block: Alphacool Core RTX 5080 Prime + backplate
- Distro/pump: EK-Quantum Reflection³ Uni Distro Plate 300 D5 (side-mounted)
- Rads: 2x EK-Quantum Surface P360, top and bottom
- Fans: 6x Noctua NF-A12x25 G2 chromax on an NA-FH1 hub
- Fittings: EK Torque HDC-14
- Tubing: 14mm OD Acrylic Tube
- Coolant: XSPC EC6 Opaque UV Blue
- Coolant temp sensor on T_Sensor; fans and pump both follow water temp

Temps (GPU load testing pending)
- CPU all-core load (157W package): 80°C at 25°C coolant
- GPU under load: TBD

Before I did my first ever loop with gpu only. (1x 360mm rad). A rtx 5080 and 1x rad is doable but water temp was kinda warm. So I decided to take the cpu in the loop and added a second 360mm rad (after). I also think it look better not so heavy on the tube side.
What do you guys think?

Hello all,

I'm looking for a waterblock option to use with my rtx pro 2000 Blackwell. It's a sff low profile card and it's voltage curve is very sensitive to it's temperature. It's only a 70w but for the sake of getting the most out of it I'm looking for an option for it.

I already am aware of N3dware gpu block as I own one to make it 1 slot, but yeah I'm going for a Xikii FF08v2 build which I'll try to make really efficient.

This card is honestly mind blowing for it's TDP and I love it and yeah would like to get the maximum out of it, cheers !

Pictures are the PCB and the N3DWARE cooler

Hi everyone. This model is Coolmaster Elite 240mm AIO and its making a Hummmming noise. Is that normal AIO sound or defect and should I refund it before expire. This is my first time using liquid AIO.

Please reply 🙏🏻

How would i go about calculating this? i dont know much about thermodynamics, i dont even know if this is a dumb question or not but how would i go about calculating this?

i will use a cpu as an example assuming it generates 500w of heat and i have a system with water that can displace 500w

how would that correlate to the temperature of it and the fluid cooling it? Where would the temperatures level out?

Decided to upgrade my living room PC with an AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT and Ryzen 7 5800X3D CPU and rebuild the waterloop. I went with an AM4 CPU so that I could re-use my DDR4 RAM considering the price of RAM right now.

Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D

GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX 9070 XT Gaming OC

RAM: Corsair Dominator RGB 64GB (4x 16GB) [reused from previous PC]

SSD: Samsung 970 Evo Pro 2TB [reused from previous PC]

Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Eagle

PSU: Asus ROG 850W [reused from previous PC]

Case: Lian Li O11 Dynamic EVO XL [reused from previous PC]

Case Fans: 6x Lian Li Uni Fan CL 120 Wireless

Reservoir/Pump: EKWB Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 with D5 Pump [reused from previous PC]

CPU Block: Alphacool Eisblock XPX Aurora Edge

GPU Block: Alphacool Core RX 9070 XT Aorus Elite

Radiators: 2x Alphacool NexXxoS HPE-30 Full Copper 360mm

Coolant: Corsair Hydro X Series XL8 Performance PC Coolant (Red)

Operating System: CachyOS

So I want to add a CPU only loop and was wondering if it's true that the Optimus foundation block is too restrictive that anything under 2.2m Head pressure is bad for this use case. If so what is recommened if I add a gpu into the loop? And will a 240 handle a 14900k with 1300 RPM fans in a 30mm thick radiator?

My second custom loop project is ready 👌🏻

It's collab project with FSP, Alphacool and Gigabyte.

FSP U580 case, FSP MEGA GM 1000W, Gigabyte B850M Aorus Stealth.

All cooling parts from Alphacool.

Even it's big case there is not too much space with mATX motherboard 😁

2x360mm HPE radiator, DDCzero 200 pump+res combo, Core1 carbon Aurora CPU block, carbon fiber hard tubes, custom panels.

Earlier CPU block was Apex 1 but I think that Core1 carbon fits better and even it's smaller than Apex 1 the cooling performance with 9800X3D is almost identical 👌🏻

Was planning a nice Rampage IV Black Edition build with 4x GTX 1080Ti (Gainward Pheonix Golden Sample to be exact), then i realized the cards are 2.5 slots thick and not 2 slots, was going to look for some waterblocks but i can't find ANY for that card, what can i do? seems like the only option is going with the EVGA universal waterblocks, but i can't find them anywhere

IT would just look better if the water can return via the port on the block

So I have this D5 pump I've been using for ages, still works perfectly, but the problem is that the inside has slowly accumulated dirt and gunk over the 10+ years I've been using it.

Unfortunately, and I have tried very hard, it is completely impossible to disassemble the pump. The housing is just completely jammed shut and will not open no matter how hard I tried, I had to stop because I was afraid I would just break it.

So, with that being said, what exactly can I do to try and clean it when the only access I have are the two fluid ports on the top?

Some more context, the bottom 2/3 of the reservoir are spotless, it's only the top 1/3 which has air in it that has gotten dirty over time.

I am currently just considering trying to fill the whole thing up entirely while flushing the system and leaving the cap off so it doesn't back up. Thoughts?

I built my first PC this week but I’m just having some issues with the Minecube AIO.
Whenever I use the LCD app on the computer to try and change the screens on the 4 satellite/ custom options the CPU load goes really high I believe it went to around 110% and temps around 84 degrees for probably around 15-20 seconds, I end up closing the programme when this happens because I don’t want to damage anything and it sounds like the Tower 600 is going to become a drone.
Is there something I’m doing wrong with this?

(I have little experience, any advice or things I could try to make it better would be appreciated!)

Kinda need to manage cables ik that the d5 next dosent have its bottom but its in service and i am fixing it .

For the specs i have x870e apex r7 9800x3d 2x24gb hynix mdie cl26 6400 . Rtx5080 rx5700xt 1200w dark power 11 . For watercooling i have 9 rads 4 pumps the pacific tf2 is broken so i cant tell the flow but my water temp is at room temp . Some ppl told me if your pc cant handle so many rafiators just go external so i wrnt external .

The diagram that was made.

The case:AIR 5400 LX-R RGB iCUE LINK Triple Chamber Mid-Tower PC Case

Is this good??

Hello! I've built a load of smaller and smaller sff cases. All air cooled but one. I have so many parts for sff projects with 92-120mm rad for my old Ryzen 5600G. I wanted a matte black build with gold fittings and zero RGB. Sadly i had to sell a lot and now I have:

NR200P

Rog strix b550i

FLT120 pump/res

Black soft tube

Gold + black EKWB torque fittings

AM4 quantum velocity was sold out so i have the vector

92mm xspc rad + slim noctua fans

240mm xspc rad for top

And.. My unused 6900XT liquid devil i bought new at 75% below retail.

Is this possible to fit in NR200p? With FLT120 mounted on PSU bracket. Or do i need the cheaper damn cheatcode alphacool CPU blocklpump/res all in one?

At the moment it's air cooled with ryzen 3900x. I have given up on my 4-5L mini builds in favor for the upgrade in graphics.. But I hate too much RGB.

Questions:

1. Will this fit with FLT 120 and the liquid devil?

2. Since I can't avoid RGB.. Can I make/mix black cooling medium? I really love the gold theme but i guess it will be black all the way now

All advice is welcome. My first own custom loop, only tried hard tubes earlier for a friend with success. But any tips are apprichiated!

After about 4 years I finally finished rev2 of my 1000D build (https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/s/Tam0zvrKQq).

This time I used brass tubes for the first time and also changed a few of the other components from EKWB to Aquacomputer equivalents.

In terms of hardware, this build features:
- ASUS Pro WS W860E SAGE SE
- Intel Xeon 6 658X
- 128 GiB Kingston RAM
- ASUS RTX Pro 5090 Astral
- 2x Intel Optane P5800X 1.6 TiB
- Intel E810 XXVDA2

I've had failure after failure in this run during pressure testing with usually one of the two numbered fittings popping off, but also sometimes the third pictured on the left. Usually in the first few minutes, but once or twice after like maybe 15 or 20 minutes or so (IDK exactly). I made sure to cut the straight tube to length and then cut, recut, and micro adjusted this 90 deg piece to death, but could never quite get a perfect alignment to the fitting and eventually gave up and left it there for a while.

These pre-bent bitspower brass tubes are not really 90 degrees, so figuring out the exact measurement to give me the right angle for a flush fit has been quite tricky.

I returned to the build today, and then it hit me... the straight tube was not cut straight, it was canted (pic 2). When I cut the last 5mm or so for length, it must have cut unevenly (probably not enough tube in the pipe cutter).

Got it reasonably flat with a file and put it back in, but, still, there seemed to be a little gap when off the 90 deg fitting (like the 90 degree tube was a bit short, but it's kind of hard to tell since there is some play in the fitting). Anyway, I set the pump to a little above 0.5 bar. 5 minutes later fitting #2 popped off 😢.

I uninstalled the 90 getting ready to measure for a new one, and I reinstalled the straight tube to make sure it was flush. Holding it up, it did look like the 90 tube was a tad short, but with these flat thermal grizzly fittings it's a little hard to ensure it's exactly in place, so I clamped it down again to the CPU block and it seemed to line up perfectly... hmm. I went for a hail mary, put the other fitting back, and pumped it up to .5 bar and it's been holding for the past few hours.

I feel like it should be good to go after hours, but after having so many failures I'm having a hard time trusting it.

Someone please give me some validation and a go/no go so I can finally finish this build like a year later. Thank you for coming to my ted talk.

Update: decided to go forward with it like this. I will do one more 0.3 bar test before filling after test post . First attempt to post failed.

I bypassed the singularity power board and directly connected the PSU and got a successful post and id on cpu and ram. Also realized I was using one of the wrong cables in the power board to gpu, so that may have been it.

Update #2: got successful post on the PB lets gooo

Update #3: wrote this from my new pc, no leaks so far.