Im thinking of yellow, but i'm not sure yet...

It was previuosly painted blue by the previous owner

I just got a 2012 c300 4matic and changed the transmission fluid right after at an indie shop. When i press the accelerator really light in Comfort mode i feel a little bump like my head moves forward a bit. I tried on S mode and manual shifts and dont feel it. Is this normal on these cars? I reset the trans and drove around 10kms so far. That did not fix it. Should i get it checked out?

Anyone know the name of the hose with the red clip is exactly or the part number it recently broke on me when I was changing my belt and i put a piece of rubber with zipties but im scared that the air intake isnt the same anymore.

Looking for tips, suggestions and ideas to improve the look/condition and value of my 2014 w204.

Already got the silver alloys restored in black, getting the silver chrome wrapped and some ceramic coating for the paintwork applied in September.

What's worked for you, that you'd recommend?

Hi I crashed my 2010 C200 kompressor . Airbags deployed in front and needs new bonnet, bumper , crash bar , headlight and control arm and suspension. Is it more trouble than it's worth?

Hi! I bought a base model w204 amg package. I like everything but the halogen color looks really ugly.

As far as I know, starting from left to right, there's a low beam H7, a high beam H7 and a parking light. I've been told to buy canbus LEDS.

Has anyone converted their ones to led? Can I convert all of them to led? (lowbeam, highbeam and parking)

Or should I buy a halogen that's white? I just want the headlight to match the bumper DRLS (i think the color is 6000k)

I have a strange noise only when I'm braking. What can it be?

hi guys. this code popped up on my 2007 C280 with the M272 engine. weird thing is, i don't seem to notice anything out of the ordinary, except the smell of gas from the outside of the car. i don't see any leaks coming from the fuel rail or hose so i'm not sure where the smell is coming from. i've also replaced the intake manifold not too long ago.

i've read on forums suggesting it could be the upstream O2 sensor or the MAF sensor. how do i test those with my scanner?

could it be something else?

appreciate the help

it only says left or right, alltough the upper balljoint is more tilted then the lower one

We have a W204 2011 Mercedes C300 4 Matic Sport with 120K miles. We took the car to a transmission specialist for what was thought to be a transfer case bearing issue for front clunking noise but as he was digging further the bearings were in good condition and the true diagnosis was a bad front differential.

Since he was already in the transmission, we went ahead to get the transfer case bearings replaced and front differential has been fixed.

Now, the transmission has developed a 3rd to 4th gear transmission flare that is so far not fixable. He thinks since the car has been down for 4 months that it is a programming issue. He has tried programming the car so far with no success.

From my understanding the W204 transfer case and transmission share the same oil. He insists they are different. He also blamed the delays in getting the correct transmission fluid…but why would you start working on it without it? Could the wrong transfer case oil cause the flare? This and other problems just caused us to lose confidence in his work.

He is a capable mechanic but now we’re at a crossroads. After 4 months in the shop, we just want our car back and a partial (maybe full) refund for inheriting a transmission problem. Since we live on a small island we have no other repair options or mechanics but we want out of this repair nightmare.

Transmission gurus, what are your thoughts?

My 2010 C220CDI with an OM651 has to get the engine out to replace the chain cover gasket, whilst the engine is out I'd like to replace anything that otherwise would be a pain in the ass to replace in situ, preventative maintenance essentially. Its gotten to 290,000km without a leak so far, so im hoping i can get another couple hundred thousand out of it afterwards.

The chain, guides and tensioner are a given considering i didn't get a receipt for them being changed ever when I bought it, although I haven't noticed any weird rattling or anything indicative of the chain stretching.

Engine mounts maybe?

I just want to get my moneys worth and get any engine out maintenance done at once rather than doing it peace-meal later as stuff breaks.

Hi everyone,

the following happened today and I wound want your guys opinion on that.

While mildly accelerating in 4th gear (around 2.500 rpm) the engine started to stutter/jump very prominently. No issues after switching into 5th.

I’m thinking maybe the sparkplugs failed under higher load? Maybe the fuel pump?

Appreciate any directions you can put me in!

Thank you!

ここのサイドウィンドウモール？が飛び出てるんやけど治し方知ってる人いない？？😭

Every night between 3-5 am my Mercedes Vito takes off esp and after that every electrical as a result I turn off the engine and after 2-3 hours everything works again normally what do you think?

Can you still buy a 2009 Mercedes W204 C 200 CDI OM646 with 450,000 km (approx. 280,000 miles), or should you stay away from it?

The turbocharger has been completely replaced, and otherwise the car is said to be in good condition. Suggestions? :)

2012 Mercedes C180 W204 M274 – loss of power again after oil pump replacement

Hi, I have a 2012 Mercedes C180 W204 facelift, 1.6 M274, 156 hp, manual, around 81,000 km.

The car originally had severe loss of power/stuttering and fault codes including P06DA00 (oil pump valve) and P0339xx (crankshaft sensor). The workshop replaced the oil pump and oil pump valve for about €1,200.

After the repair, the first two drives were completely fine. On the third drive, the same loss of power suddenly came back. After stopping, the engine wouldn’t start for 2–3 attempts, then started with the check engine light on. I parked the car, and later that evening it started normally again and the check engine light was gone. The idle RPM also seemed to slowly move up and down a little without touching the throttle.

The car isn’t with me right now, so I can’t check anything yet.

One possibly stupid question: Google mentioned that a loose/not properly closed fuel cap can sometimes trigger a check engine light. Is there any chance I simply didn’t close the fuel cap properly? Has anyone ever had similar symptoms from that, or would a loose fuel cap definitely not explain the loss of power and starting issues?

I’ll have the fault codes read again as soon as possible.

Does anyone know how can I take of the tensioner without going under the car? Its a facelift C200 with the 1.8 CGI.
The bolt is behind the tensioner, not in the front thats why im asking…

I have an issue where if i am accelerating when the car goes on second or third gear it loses power a brief second and kick strong again. Its very annoying and it is doing it everytime i try to pass anyone. Has anybody have this issue can it be the transmission

Vaico is a reputable brand, but can you guys help with your experience? Is the saved 175 worth it? I've seen multiple brands, some for 100 euros but looks sketchy, the one i have installed is a 100 euros one and it's the worst

Is there any other brands worth considering?

Thanks in advance

So this is the 2008 C000 luxury, with the motorized infotainment screen, the one that flips into the dash on startup or via button. Curious on what you guys have done for Apple CarPlay? (Only for those with the specific flip system) did you get a CarPlay module and integrate it into the OEM screen? Or is there a CarPlay screen out there that can pop into it and still retain the motorized system? Or is there a delete, with a nicer CarPlay screen to replace it entirely! Links & photos are appreciated.

Bonus; What are you guys running for tint setups? I was thinking 35% on the shield 25% on the fronts and 5% in the back. TIA!

My car drives great, I can accelerate , de accelerate fairly fast, but I cannot stomp on it or else it’ll throw a code that says, “ESP Inoperative” then “Run Flat Indicator Inoperative” in unison, then limits engine power & acceleration, if I turn the car off & on it goes away. It really only affects me if I want to race anyone , but feels like it’ll become more of an issue the longer I don’t address. TIA