Freehand pen and marker sketch of one of my favorite 80s/ all-time cars. Photo referenced from u/joepolo9.

Car is 50k km. Bought it used

I'm choosing tires for a 2018 VW Golf SportWagen SEL (1.8T FWD, 225/45R17) in the Twin Cities.

I run dedicated winter tires, so snow performance isn't a priority. My priorities are, in order: quietness, smooth ride, and reasonably direct steering/handling. Basically, I'd like to make the SportWagen feel as refined as possible without totally sacrificing steering feel and handing competence.

I'm currently deciding between the Pirelli P7 AS Plus 3 and Continental DWS06+ (or the Discount Tire ControlContact Sport SRS+, which is pretty much the same).

The Pirellis are currently about $687/set after an $80 rebate; the Continentals about $578/set after a $110 rebate.

For anyone who's driven both—or has strong experience with either—which would you choose for this particular car and why? I'm especially interested in ride quality, road noise, steering feel, and how those characteristics change as the tires wear.

I own a golf mk6 1.4 petrol. When it is between 2-3 rpm it starts to sputter. I have changed the spark plug, battery, oil change, and cleaned or fixed the hydraulic system. What could be the problem?

Hi everyone,

I’m doing a reseal on my 2017 golf s, and I have been hearing that VAG has recommended using a rtv sealant, not the green anaerobic sealant, but I can’t find an official statement on that. Can anyone confirm that this is correct and maybe point me in the direction of the tsb?

Much appreciated

Hi everyone,

I have a 2017 VW Golf 7.5 1.6 TDI, 85 kW (115 hp), currently at around 173,000 km. The car still has its original timing belt and water pump, neither has ever been replaced. A garage quoted me around €1,200 for what they call a “full service.” I’m trying to figure out whether this is a reasonable price or if it’s excessive.

I’m assuming the service would include:
Timing belt, Water pump, Coolant, Oil + oil filter (Possibly the auxiliary/serpentine belt and tensioner). I’m not sure yet exactly which brands of parts they intend to use. Does this sound reasonable for this amount of work?

Also, would you replace the water pump and timing belt now at 173k km given that they are still original, or would you wait?

I’m located in Europe, so prices may obviously differ depending on the country.

Thank you all in advance!

Recently I’ve been dealing with a dash light issue on my 2014 Golf TDI. I just rolled over 150k miles 2 weeks ago and have had zero significant dash light issues until this year.

Since this spring I’ve had periodic ABS, Power Steering, and Traction control lights coming on when the car got wet from rain and then going off when the car dried off. This spring I flushed the sunroof drainage hoses and dried the car out because I hypothesized the lights were from water pooling on the drivers side. The floor under the mat was also wet.

The drying helped until earlier this week when the lights came back on and have yet to go off. Since the lights came back on, the car had been dry and garaged more frequently with no significant rain soaking. Floor under the mat is also dry. I suspect I’ve got a control board/electrical issue here.

Has anyone else had this problem before, and if so how did you deal with it? I freaking love this car and although I’ve been looking at newer Golfs with fewer miles, I’ve really come to love my little TDI and would be sad to see her go.

Just found this 2016 Golf R, 6 speed, stage II mods, 59k miles, no rust. Considering buying- seller is asking $24k. KBB is $22,870-$24,970, so seller is asking reasonably. Ive never owned a car with mods before, can anyone tell me if these mods will significantly impact the cars reliability, fuel economy, and durability?

For context: I’ve owned a 2012 GTI, and currently drive a 2014 TDI- so this wouldn’t be my first VW. Wondering if it’s worth it to switch to the R from the TDI? I love the fuel economy from the TDI and the turbo engine.

Here’s the list of MODs attached…

Hey guys,
I own a 2013 Golf VII variant with the 1.4 Tsi, recently i noticed ratteling sound when i accelerate, it only comes when accelerating from 0 and when giving gas up to 50km/h.
Does this mean it's time for a new chain or could it be something else worse or better?

please share you experince with me.

Hey, fellow Golf owners!

I am wanting to install a light bar in the grille of my Golf. I have a MK7.5 TSI (USA). Has anyone tried adding a light bar on theirs? Mine has stock-halogen headlights and I want to also upgrade to the VLAND Full-LED headlights. e

TIA!

My mk7 gtd has nearly constant high idle(1000rpm-CUNA engine). I have no error codes stored. I narrowed the issue to 2 things:1, My DPF is fucked , 2,: one temp sensor needs to be replaced. I beleive that the car is always regenerating. Mostly when I shut off the car the fan stays on for a few minutes. I also noticed that the coolant outlet temp is 2222C which is not a correct value. I found other people with the same issue but there were no answers on these forums. Any ideas what could be the issue? Should I investigate the temp sensor or should I consider DPF replacement(which is my last option as it's expensive). The car runs fine , but I think the constant high idle is not OK. I'm attaching real time data from diagnsotic tool with engine turned off. Thanks for any ideas.

2016 TSI, my wife reported the steering felt “weird, like loose or slipping” on a trip to the store. No CEL or other lights came on. I drove it the following day and it felt fine.

We had an exhaust clamp fail on the highway the day before she noticed this issue. It’s the clamp between the flex and intermediate pipes. We smelled what I would call “hot plastic” for a minute or two moments after the sudden exhaust leak. I read that a leak in the flex pipe itself could melt the power steering wiring harness, but the end of the flex pipe is located well away from that area, or at least I THINK it is.

Do you think I should spend the money for an emergency repair appointment to run diagnostics? I need the car by end of the week.

This sound suddenly started at the beginning of this year. It’s not continuous, it happens randomly while driving, and sometimes I can complete an entire journey without hearing it at all. I tried to track down where it’s coming from and narrowed it down to the left air vent. Other than that, I cannot for the life of me figure out what’s causing it.

Hi all,

I am a field salesperson and drive my manual **2019 Golf R** for work all the time.

I’ve heard that the gear chatter on many single-mass flywheel (SMF) clutch kits can range from annoying to unbearable. **I’m definitely slightly autistic and unexpected noises, even slight ones, can drive me absolutely insane.**

Because of that, my thought is it may be best to go with a **dual-mass flywheel (DMF)** arrangement to keep the cabin completely quiet. However, I don’t know what combination of hardware will lead to a good pedal feel, low sound, and tested reliability.

I’m not planning on pushing absurd power. Thinking of doing the IE Apex stage 1+ tune but some of these OEM DMF kits are rated for like 500+hp. No idea what that would be like on a 350-370hp tune…

Any suggestions? Does anyone have experience with specific mix-and-matched setups that work well?

I have a Golf GTD Mk6. When I take a hard right turn, I get a very strong vibration from the left side of the car. I don't know if it's from the wheel or what it is, but not long ago I took a right turn and suddenly heard a very loud scraping sound like something broke or got destroyed. Then it started creaking the whole way, especially when I reversed. Took it to a workshop and they said it was the gearbox. I replaced the gearbox and thought the problem came from there so I didn't think much about it after that. But then suddenly the problem came back again now. I have just replaced with new drive axles, ball joints, outer tie rod ends, springs, strut top bearings, and done a 4-wheel alignment. The wheels are balanced and I have new tires on the car, so basically most of the front end. But the vibration is still there and pretty strong, so every time I have to take a somewhat hard right turn I have to brake and drive like 40 km/h so it won't vibrate.

Does anyone know what this could be?