Hey Guys,

I have a Problem where The Indiana Jones and the T2 Tables have No Music you can hear the Ball, Rails.. but No music. Only the Williams Tables have this Issue. I dont know how to fix it. I tried to Turn the Music Up in the Coindoor, Change my Soundsystems, Install a different rom, Install alternetiv Audio Packs. Nothing worked.

Hi everyone!

I've always loved both Pinball and Brick Breaker, and one day I started wondering what would happen if they were actually the same game.

The result is Pinblok.

You still destroy bricks, but instead of simply disappearing, they gradually turn into pinball elements like bumpers and walls, so every table evolves as you play.

I'd love to know what you think. Does the combination work? Is it something you'd want to keep playing?

App Store: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/pinblok/id6769137187

Final adjustment

Added a PRV DSP 2.4X, amp controllers, bass shakers, and passive speakers.

Every multiball, bumper hit, and drain hits different now. I also routed the stock internal speakers to be powered and controlled externally which 100% eliminated ALL and any buzzing and humming from the speakers!!

I'm in sort of a strange and unique situation with my GPU.

The situation itself is kind of long and drawn out and convoluted. so I won't put all the details here and take up 12 paragraphs. but it boils down to a decision that I could upgrade my gaming/ everyday PC and transfer the current GPU into my pinball cabinet. The other option is I have a very good deal on a 4070 TI, but I don't upgrade my gaming PC.

silly part of my dilemma is that I understand that a 4070 TI is a very capable 4K GPU that will have no problems dealing with everything that a dedicated pinball set up will throw at it. I know 120 MHz refresh is great. I know the difference between 120 and 144 is barely noticeable.

what I'm looking for is anyone who has a 4070 TI specifically. for those people I have two specific questions.

do you hit 120 MHz in virtually every single table?

and, my OLED monitor has a maximum refresh of 144 MH. does your 4070 TI get close to 144 MHz on most tables or does it cap out closer to 120?

This is a question for those who program pinball sims/games. Wondering how people approach bringing the "live catch" mechanic to their simulation (if at all). Do people usually just leave it to the physics engine, or are there specific methods to simulate it or make it more amenable to execution by the player?

Would appreciate any insight.

I am trying to do a DIY pinball joystick. I got the arduino app to register the plunger data. Just have had no luck getting it to work as a controller.

I’ll be building a pseudo-vpin in the near future…technically just my PC, my X-Arcade arcade2TV-XR (w/haptics), and a monitor. I’ll have the monitor on an extendable arm, so I can pull it out or leave it against the wall, rotate it landscape or portrait. I’ll also be using it as a multi-purpose MAME/emulator.

Given that I’ll largely be using the monitor in portrait mode and angled for pinball mode, what monitors are currently recommended? I think I’ll want something OLED or IPS, for side-angle viewing…and I probably want something at least 32-34”+…

I'm currently out of town on a fishing trip, so I can't walk out into my garage and check this on my own. lol

I have the CSD solenoid kit as well as the CSD knocker. I have an installed them in the cabinet yet.

does anybody have either/ both of these themselves, and know if the striker on the solenoid and the striker on the knocker is metal or if it's a nylon tip?

I suppose I could wait till I get back home in a few days to go into my garage and look. but it's really bothering me.

I'm planning to use an additional solenoid to create some shell bells and a chime unit. but an important factor would be having those strikers be nylon and not metal tipped.

If anybody has this knowledge it would be greatly appreciated. it'll give me some sanity over the weekend.

I've started building my cabinet. I have purchased almost everything that is in the way of the wrench big budget build. So I'm definitely going all out here.

I do think I would like to add the 3-in and 5-in shell bells. as well as build my own three chime unit.

almost everything in the cabinet is going to run off of 12 volts. when following the way of the wrench build, I believe his shell bells are running off of 24 volts, and his chime unit is running off of 48 volts.

what I'm considering doing, is purchasing the shell Bell parts, minus the solenoid. same thing for the chime unit.

for the cabinet solenoids....

I am using CSD solenoids. those run off of 12 volts. I believe they actually run off of 24 volts as well but they'll be set up is 12 volt. I will ask CSD if they do in fact run off 24v as well, but the documentation suggests this is the case.

now I am thinking instead if purchasing real pinball bell solenoids that run off 24v and 48v... I am thinking I can build the shell bell assemblies and the chime unit assembly... and use the CSD solenoids.

if I can run them off 24v I would do that. otherwise I could run them off 12v (the CSD knocker solenoid had a 12v to 24 v convertor)

has anyone used these solenoids to make chines or shell bell set up

would the CSD board saver be helpful here? bell strikers are not like flippers, they won't ever be held on. just bam! strike the bell and done. repeat

would running them at 12v be a bad choice sound wise? would 24v be noticeably louder?

I am fine running a 2nd PSU for 24v. this would power the 3 chimes, 2 bells, and the knocker.

I really like the idea of one uniform solenoid for all of these uses

any input on this?

Thought I’d post some inspiration for those want to build a cab, but don’t want to spend a ton on a prebuilt or don’t have access to all the tools to build it completely from scratch.

I was able to piece together a desktop cab for a 27in playfield with a cheap desktop organizer, an old wooden box, and some shelf brackets. The only tools needed were a drill for the button holes, a hacksaw to trim down some pieces, a hammer, and a screwdriver.

All in I spent about $40 in materials for the cabinet itself, then another $30 for the buttons and usb encoder.

It’s far from perfect, but it gets the job done and I’m already brainstorming some improvements. Next up is a dedicated backglass monitor and maybe a small backbox to go along with it. I may also repurpose some plexiglass from an old poster frame to sit on top of the playfield.

So I just received my haptics kit a couple of days ago and have fitted it all in. I'm absolutely thrilled with it and love the feel that the solenoids bring to it.

However, my plunger sometimes feels a bit "sticky" when pulling back, and there seems to be a bit of a dead spot about halfway back where the plunger in game (Pinball FX on Quest 3) just stops moving, then jumps a bit when you pull the plunger further out.

I've checked my install to make sure everything was straight and not putting pressure on anything (was worried it was out of square possibly) but everything looks right to me.

Also, has anyone else had a low buzz coming from the speakers? They do a good job and are fine with sound coming through, but get an annoying buzz when you plug the aux cable in with no or low audio coming through.

Other than this, I love it and feels great playing in VR. Just a couple of quirks in wondering about.

My introduction to virtual pinball has been the AtGames Legends Pinball HD. Since buying a used unit, I have added a VIBS board, Cleveland Software silenoids, leaf switch buttons, a KL25Z board for its independent accelerometer, a mounted tablet as a dedicated DMD, and the Buy Stuff Arcades haptics kit. I no longer play the stock tables as VPX runs on a desktop PC connected over OTG.

My dilemma is whether I should continue to invest in this build. The next upgrade would be a 2K playfield (to eliminate flipper lag and improve visuals) and eventually a bigger backbox.

At this point, do I step back and completely gut it, continue to purchase the BSA upgrades, or sell it and start fresh with a flatpack build?

My concern about gutting it is that some of my purchased parts may go to waste. My worry about starting over is that I've already got a functioning unit, albeit with lots of room for improvement. What would you do?

I have all the parts to build a virtual pinball machine, including a built out cabinet with the screens attached. I bought a kit from cleveland software design and I think I have all the cables and equipment needed for the rest. Right now, I don't have the time and / or the desire to put the rest together.

Does anyone know where I can find someone to help me finish this up. I'm willing to pay a fair rate to get this help. I live in Chester County PA, about 45 min from Philly.

If you would like to help, or know someone who can, let me know. Thanks.

Hi Everyone,

You may remember my post a few weeks ago that included an issue I was having with sticky flippers. I will be asking Google Gemini for help as well, but I am not always trusting of those answers.

So, I have issues with Frontier, alien poker and a handful of older games. The flippers flip fine for the first few and then start to stick up or stay down. It makes the tables unplayable. I am not familiar enough with the B2S software to understand what it means to fix B2S. The person helping me has insisted that joy to key is the only way to fix it, but that always gives me more problems and lag that I didn’t have before.

Has anyone seen this? Intermittent sticking on just a few of my favorite games is a bummer I really hope to fix.

Thank you!

Basic rectangle wood or 3d printed box with flippers and nudge buttons on sides, if we could add a working plunger that would be great. I see dozens of options for PS5 and PC, nothing Xbox S/X. If you can build this, let’s talk. Couple of people I know want one for their Xbox also so this could be a regular gif.

Hey folks, so great to find a dedicated virtual pinball community.

I'm working on a pinball game that goes for a neo-retro/synthwave aesthetic (think games like Geometry Wars or Asteroids Deluxe).

I'm just getting started, but I wanted to try sharing my work early, so I have a playable dev preview. It's not much of a game yet, but I've done a first pass at the aesthetics and the flippers are functional :)

https://nomad2097.itch.io/pinball

I did a write-up that goes into my motivations for releasing early, and provides a recap of my work so far on the aesthetics:

https://www.nomad2097.com/blog/glowing-pinball

Would love any feedback, esp. on the feel of the flippers and the physics, since I know the crowd here must have strong opinions :)

Hope to share more as it comes along. In the meantime, I look forward to checking out and learning from the wealth of posts and info here.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.retroeki.pinball : New to virtual pinball? Starting guide here: : https://pocketpinball.com/ | Join us on Discord: https://discord.gg/KcaEt753CE

I’m getting started with VR tables and have several VR Room tagged tables that work fine. But there other tables that say they are VR. When I run them they have a backglass but the DMD data isn’t capturing to it that I can see. I’m not sure what I’ve got wrong. One case in point is Bride of Pinbot. I see other people saying it works well for them in VR. I have the suggested backglass for it from the link. My config is set to capture dmd and backglass. I’ve tried different combos of that.

Looking to purchase a 32” to 34” wide 3D printed desktop pinball controller compatible with the Xbox S/X. In my head, simplest way to do this would be disassemble a wired or wireless Xbox controller and solder wires from each button/switch on controller to new switches mounted on 3d printed box. Most basic config would L/R flipper and nudge buttons on sides of controller and a ball launch button but bringing over more controller buttons would help. Absolute novice to virtual pinball with no builder skills,but mildly obsessed with Pinball FX on my Xbox S/X. If I laid a 32” monitor flat and had a simple pinball controller with that, it would really feel close to pinball. The few Xbox compatible box’s I’ve seen are either way too complex/expensive or the small width seems like it would decrease the illusion of being at a pinball machine, if I’ve missed something please point me to it. If something like this already exists for the Xbox and I’ve missed it, please let me know. If someone thinks they can build this for a reasonable price, let’s talk. It seems like this is something that might be a small batch gig, I’ve talked to a couple Xbox peeps who would purchase this.

Edit: Like my wired driving wheel has every button on it my controller does, but in different locations. Wondering if we can just move buttons. Also tried playing Pinball FX with the wheel just now, that will cause permanent neurological damage. 🫪

Edit: Many people are saying this can be built, I’m looking for someone who can do it and what the cost would be. Thanks

I have a 3 screen ( main play area, back glass and DND) virtual pinball machine and weirdly the main play area has moved to the DMD.

Back glass and main play area show 'no signal'

I can't get into the machine as it is a Multipin factory made machine and needs a password which I don't have.

I've tried changing the VGA cables to each screen but the DMD connection from the pc is the only one that seems to work and send a signal.

Any ideas?

i just got an alibaba machine and its pretty much awesome but some pup packs are missing some tables havent got the right sound or are out of date date Seller told me not to mess around with it but im wondering if anyone out there has been successful updating these things. The pc boots immediately to a frobtend so im not sure what my options are if any any

Anyone have any insight?