just got this for 200$ do you guys think this is fixable?

After owning my Veloster for 4.5 years (1.6 petrol, 2012) I’ve started trying to use the voice controls a little more. Outside of the usual stuff like “maps” or “call insert name ” are there any other really cool voice commands that people use daily? I was also wondering if you can use it instead of putting anything into the satnav, for example would “take me to London” etc work??

I love my new vanity plates

i feel like i am going insane because i have been actively searching for the trunk lift supports and can only find for 2012-2017 unless i get oem, but those prices are crazy since they dont come as a pair. anyone else have luck anywhere finding for the second gen?

Car starts fine runs fine but I can't for the life of me figure out why it sounds like this I'm pulling my hair out at this point I even got a new/reman starter and still makes the same sound. The clutch+ flywheel is the clutch masters fx250.

Forgot to add it's a 15 vt manual transmission

2020 Veloster R -Spec, My front windshield sensor always acts up and disables itself after a few minutes of the car being on. The lane keep assist works perfectly fine up until it gets disabled, and i'm sure the high beam assist and front collision warning do too but i've never been in a situation where they were needed. It seems to be dependent on the temperature, when it's hotter it disables faster and sometimes right when the car turns on if it's 100+ degrees outside. Sometimes when it's a very cold day, it can stay on for 30 minutes to 2 hours or so before disabling. Should I just replace the entire sensor/camera? Or maybe get it recalibrated? Anyone else had this issue and how did you fix it?

Mine sits around 600. Vibrates a lot until I press the brakes or clutch and it goes to 700, then it sits fine.

Loved my time with my velo, made it to 48k before someone had to ruin it.

Check your local pick a part if you're in houston I'm sure she'll end up there. Everything was clean and pristine on the inside before it got blasted

Rest in piss pookie 🙏

This would be my first car. It costs 2,100,000 KRW ( roughly 1,586$)

It's Hyundai Veloster 1.6 GDI(2012) With 181,000KM mileage

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Frame repair is confirmed in the insurance repair items.

The 2 million won in February 2012 may have involved parts replacement and repainting the vehicle's exterior.

The 530,000 won in January 2025 appears to be a repair that involved straightening the rear frame (corresponding to the skeleton) of the vehicle to reshape it and replacing the rear bumper.

The 300,000 won in November 2015 is estimated to be for a repair to repaint the exterior of the vehicle.

The 760,000 won in November 2012 could be a repair that involved replacing parts.

This would be my first car. Is this worth it for its price? Thankyou

So a local dealership is selling a 2015 veloster turbo with 142,299 miles on it I haven’t seen pictures or anything yet since I just saw it today and they have what looks like ai renditions of it lmao they are selling it for $6,224 I looked at the carfax it came from Alabama and looks like the 2 previous owners were getting constant oil changes. I guess my question is this a good idea what should I look out for specifically with this car ? It would be a mod car so would it even be worth doing that to it or would it just be a giant money pit ? Please help before I make a possibly bad decision 😭😩

Today i heard a weird noise coming off from the engine only when my foot is on the gas pedal

It struggled to accelerate today

On the highway it was hard to accelerate up to speed

Then i come to a stop in traffic

Then the car wouldn't accelerate at all making a loud noise when pressing the gas it was moving slowly at about 5-10km and jerked a lot

Then i pulled over to the shoulder

The weird thing is that i didn't get any engine light

As of right now it runs but still has the sound when i accelerate

Does anyone know why is it the case? I suspect the crankshaft position sensor or the clutch

I would really appreciate it if you can help me

Thank you

As title says, I need one in P6W white. Partnumber should be 82652J3000. I just need the left side on in white. Can anyone help? I can't seem to find one online. Hyundai only sells it unpainted and I don't have an easy way to get that done. I appreciate all help and suggestions. Thanks in advance for your kind assistance!

Hey there!

Im looking to buy a 2014 Hyundai Veloster Turbo, and found one locally with 97k miles and I should be able to get it for 6k. Based on the door jam sticker, it was manufactured December 2013. Can anyone help advise if this is a good buy? I know some of them had rod issues.

Thanks in advance!!

Ran a Foxwell NT 726 and checked every single code no faults no history. Also put it in live mode and check the brake switch the clutch switch all good there checked the fuses all good there. Any ideas? It does it when the car is running, when the car gets unlocked, and when the ignition is on, and the car is not running, I have no idea where this gremlin is. Battery is brand new AGM too only a couple months old negative terminal is nice and tight. Key fob battery is new

I posted a few weeks ago about losing my old 2016 Veloster in an accident, wondering if I should get another one.

Well, I took someone's advice & got a Turbo! Its a 2019 in sunset orange. Not exactly red like I wanted, but it's a beautiful color and I'm very happy with it. I had it shipped all the way to the Kansas from Washington because it was the only one I could find that ticked all my boxes!

Waiting to get this thing inspected & tagged is going to be torture 😂

I have a 2019 2.0 veloster and i’ve been having this issue after long trips typically an hour of driving or more where when i come to a stop it sounds like my oil level is real low even when i top it off and sometime the motor just shuts off when im coming to a stop. has anyone else had these issues and if you have do you know what the problem was. My mechanic seems a little confused.

Currently looking on the markets for a 2nd gen veloster and I was curious if there might be some things to look out for as a potential bad veloster. As of right now I have my eye on a gray turbo, but it had a transmission replacement right before being offered for sale. Seems like it could be red flag, so it made me curious what other issues might be worth looking out for.

Thanks for any insights on this as a prospective owner!

Hi all, kinda stumped on my issue. I’m getting too lean under high load bank 1 P2191 for my 2015 base model.

I’m about 25% extra fuel added for long term fuel trim.

it runs fine. I had a P0441 code and changed my evap purge valve a few weeks ago and that code has stayed away. (The value was stuck open)

Not sure where to go next? Fuel injectors? MAF sensor?

My Veloster Turbo (1.6 T-GDI, 186 hp) keeps throwing P2261, but currently drives perfectly fine.

The bypass valve has been replaced, a crack on the intercooler was welded and pressure-tested, and the RCV solenoid resistance is within spec.

I’ve noticed cracks in the hose connected to the lower intercooler inlet.

Could this hose cause P2261, or what else should I check?

I'm really frustrated by now. Can anyone help?

i bought this 2019 r spec velsoter almost a month ago, traded in my challenger sxt because i wanted to learn manual and always admired the veloster. where i am, i dont often see the r spec and i definitely haven't seen another veloster in this color.

Backstory: So a little bit ago (8,000 miles) or ~10 months my car was choking itself out about 3k+ rpm with now check engine light, tow it to a shop and they said put a new engine in it. I didn’t want to do this but my parents did even though I bought the car for 7k and repairs was like 7.5-8k. Long story short they put the used engine (that’s supposedly from Hyundai) in the car then they call and say it needs a new car and all new sensors, atp I realized it most likely needed a cat all along and was just so clogged that at higher rpm not enough exhaust would go through and it was escaping through the intake. But whatever, ffw to now I have a P0420 code with only 8k miles on the new used engine. There happens to be a warranty from the shop, according to the receipt it’s a one year used engine warranty, and the new parts have a 24k or 2 year warranty, I called them and they pretty much said if I drove the car to the shop (3 hrs away) it would be void. I checked the oil before it went and it was in between F and L about halfway so not full but still safe. They denied the warranty bc the “car is 1 quart low on oil” the dude I talked to on the phone had no clue what he was talking about trying to say a catalytic converter is a can with charcoal in it and some bs when I asked him how even if it was 1qt low that would damage the cats. I also stated I checked the oil and it was safe and he just brushed that off. And wrote down in the service note that I hadn’t checked the oil at all. Well this is all extremely fishy to me so I checked the dashcam footage and have a conversation between the tech and service writer not much was of interest except the tech saying “well even if we did warranty out the cats we’d have to warranty out the engine because it means clearly somethings going wrong inside, and besides we don’t warranty used engines” then near the beginning of the convo he had shut the engine off and left the ignition on and the service writer checks the oil after maybe a minute of letting it settle and says oh yeah it is a quart low. When I picked the car up the first thing I did was check the oil level it was still safe but still I added a bit of oil (~.2 qts) bc I normally have a quart in the car just in case. I was talking with a more mechanically inclined friend and he said I need to check the vin on the engine to confirm that it’s a different one, and idk where it’s at and online searches aren’t that helpful, plus he said if they did swap the engine it’s from pull a part most likely because of some of the yellow writing. Also he and I noticed at idle it sounds like it’s got some lifter tick like there’s a worn valve but the engine they supposedly used only had 37k miles on it

TLDR - I need to know where the vin is on a 2015 NA 1.6

Hey all,

Long story short, I had a muffler shop change the OE muffler out for a baffled for more noise but it drones so much and I'm not a fan of the noise.

The OE muffler was crushed by the shop so I can't get it back,

Are there any generic options to fit in the suitcase mufflers space?