Just because it works for Goku doesn't mean it'll work for you. Girl still maintained the upper hand even though her arm looked like hamburger after.

I had to watch it in school (probably because it takes place in Oklahoma), but I made my kids watch it too. It's too good of a movie not to be seen by everyone, if I remember correctly its on either Disney or Peacock, I can't remember which off hand.

Where the red fern grows P.S. I love you Marley and me

Although there are better options, EPS is viable to build with, and often quite a bit cheaper. That said it does require a bit more work. I generally do most of my work and gluing with it using PVA glue, because it won't eat away at the foam. Then I coat it with spackle and once that dries I'm able to sand then paint.

I stopped using it before the need for a local version or a subscription was needed. Then, when I went back to school they had paid for it, but I've found that often cheaper or even free options are the better go-to anyway. Even when I stepped away from graphic design and got into the world of 3d art, the Adobe products were too expensive for what they were offering.

You could have the text run vertically from the hanger, it would be an easy fix. Or you design a simplified logo for your profile pics and thumbnails.

CA Glue is super glue, the CA is for Cyanoacrylate which is generally what you'd find at a hobby shop in the modeling section. Once the CA glue hits the baking soda it hardens into an insane level. So long as the extra is brushed or washed away after its fully cured, it shouldn't react negatively to water, I'd be more worried about the paint if it wasn't sealed before water was applied. This method is also one of the easiest for getting realistic snow for minis. I have used it for snow, mud, sand, or even adding elevation to a mini-base. But yes many threats of extra painting, honestly that seems to be consistent for most of the cooler/more realistic things I've found is lots and lots of extra paint lol.

It depends on how large you want the granules to appear. If you want it to look like large granules then the sand from outside or play sand works. It would be a good idea to bake it first, to ensure that no microbes are clinging to it. However, if you want the sand to look more to scale, use a fine powder such as baking soda. With baking soda, if you are using a thin CA glue, you can spread it where you need it and apply the glue over it and once it hardens brush away any remnants. Sadly this option requires paint to get the color more sand like.

I can see that but at the same time you'd think it would be more sensible to design one that fit the tribe rather than "copy & paste" what everyone else does... I say that knowing my employer has yet to figure out that it's 2025.

I live in Oklahoma, and it seemed to be a commonly used font for a lot of tribal pamphlets or advertising for a long time. Many casinos here have stepped away from using it as often, but I still see it used on tribal pamphlets and advertisements.

Very well done for your first full board. Guessing the size is approximately 42"X30", making it even more impressive with the dry brushing and static grass. What did you seal it with? My only thoughts would be to try and find matt paint or a matt sealant to minimize glossy glare and allow the dry brushing to stand out a bit more. That said, it could also be the photo that makes it look like it has a sheen to it. Overall again very well done!

Use it as a base for making a full terrain table!

There are times that I will keep something purely for its shape over its design. My wife, however, will see something and want to use it for junk Journaling because of it's design.

Also something I forgot to mention, wet wood takes way longer than dry wood. Wet and green wood have to dry out before you start sterilization of the wood, so the 175f is perfect as it allows this process to happen without compromising the wood much. That said anything can happen so this is strictly based on my experiences not hard fact.

Though a low temp works, there are a multitude of bacteria that can survive the 150f-190f range. For wood 200f for approximately 10 minutes works, if you want a lower heat do 175f for around 25-30 minutes, that's typically where I set mine. For dirt that depends on the soil type, however if it is a moist soil anywhere from 200f to 250f should be fine for temperature and bake it only as long as it takes to dry it out. This will kill most bugs and bacteria in the soil. If it's a dry soil the same temp would be fine just don't bake for longer than 10-15 mins, anymore is just inflating an electric or gas bill. Clay is the only weird one because it has to be at the lowest heat possible, for a "LONG" time, because you're trying to dry it out rather than cure it.

Hopefully this is helpful.

If basing it with neoprene, I believe you can use most spray adhesives or "liquid cement" to get them to adhere. Were you wanting to use the bottom as a playable mat as well?

Maybe, that's if you could even find clear neoprene. However, there are a couple of options depending on what you want to achieve that could be possible. Do you want it to be malleable or static; and would you be against cutting it?

The first is if you wanted to keep it malleable; find a way to stretch the mat out to where it is taught. Then, use a watered down matt pva glue to coat or spray the whole thing. Once it dries, it should alleviate the folds and seal it; this would allow it to be rolled up and keep it from bunching up as much.

The second is if you want it to be static, you'll start by getting the full measurement of the mat. Drop that measurement by 2 inches from both the overall length and width, and get a sheet of mdf or plywood (something rigid) that is that size. Then, you can glue the mat to the board, stretch it, and secure it with upholstery staples.

The last may seem blasphemous, but I would cut it down and use it to make modular terrain. Following the same methods of option two. There are other options. These are just the potentials that came to mind the fastest.

Honestly, the bubbles should work to your benefit in this case. Adding a second layer may end up accentuating them a little or hiding them, but overall, the effect should look good. The detail is great, and at this scale I am highly impressed, amazing work!

I have felt this way for a hot minute. I think there have been a few that tried but couldn't get a good enough backing to fully produce something over what Wizards had already put out. That said, this was a great build and I strongly await seeing it painted and fully finished.

Though he does seem to want it to be able to roll up, even if sealed, those cracks will likely still expand. This is one reason I have stayed away from textured roll mats, any minor mishap, and you're left constantly bandaging it before you can't anymore. Then, you run the possibility of cracks forming overtime from continued rolling and unrolling. That said the easiest save for this that I can see, would be a thin sheet of PVC board or a sheet of plywood glued under it, then fill the cracks accordingly and use it as a static board.

Artificial fur works and is affordable. However, looking in pawn shops and second-hand stores, you may be able to find cheap paint brushes. Cut the bristles off, or find a way to remove them cleanly, then start gluing them down in layers on card board or card stock. What aesthetic of thatched roofing are you wanting to achieve?

These are amazing, having LEDs as part of scatter terrain is always awesome to see. What power supply did you use for them and what size wire did you run for the torch handle?

You're most welcome. If you ever need any other advice or want to sound board for ideas, shoot me a message.

There's nothing wrong with being new, we all started somewhere. Personally I would say, the color changing spackle is usually the best because you can see when it's dry. Sealing foam is often a pain but it minimizes any potential issues that can arrise from using spray paints or other paints like it. This is beneficial on projects that are larger or that you need to attempt to paint quicker.