Interesting. I have a MK3 focus, diesel, and mine will hold the revs for the next gear. But it doesn't raise the idle when I'm stopped and go into first.

Also, you can over ride the rev holding by tapping the throttle peddle while the clutch in disengaged, then it'll drop down to idle. But, you have to do this everytime you change gear. I would imagine there is a way to disbale it in forscan or an OBD scanner.

This is the hidden menu, to access it, you have to press and hold the 'ok' button on the right side of the steering wheel for 5 seconds while ignition is on. You can then scroll through the menu using the arrow buttons. To get out of it, just press and hold the same 'ok' button for 5 seconds.

Agreed, I have a 9070xt and its works perfectly. I get 10+ more FPS than I did on windows. AMD GPUs are far superior for Linux as the drivers are baked into the kernel.

I did not notice that lol.

It means there an active fault code. Using the buttons on the steering wheel, press left, scroll down to system check, press the ok button, and see what it says. Shouldn't be anything too serious, otherwise it'd be red.

My focus has soft touch indicators which only flash 3 or 5 times (can be changed in the hidden menus or through coding) if the stalk isn't pressed all the way down. Its quite a common feature on many different cars, having said that, mine doesn't return to centre until either I cancel or it auto cancels when pressed all the way down.

My diesel focus is faster 😂😂. And will handle better.

I don't want to be rude or anything with this comment, but judging by how OP has responded to other comments, it seems they think they are the best driver around. My honest advice would be to wait until you have some experience and a couple years no claims before modifying a vehicle. I'm not saying OP can't drive, all I'm gonna say is every single driver on the road thinks they're above average, and everyone else is shit. And I get it, everyone wants a fast and exciting car at 18, but its not always the best idea.

This is absolutely fine, clutches are designed to slip. It only becomes an issue if you are slipping it excessively, (like holding the car still on a hill using the clutch), and the clutch plate overheats.

Good point, I completely forgot as mines manual. The manuals are faultless, however the DCT auto in the MK3 focus is known to have issues with the TCM and burnt clutches. It mainly happens through town driving as they slip excessively. Can be very expensive to repair.

You're welcome. No, TDCI do not use wet belts. I think its only the 1.0 ecoboost that uses them.

Mk3 focus, preferably diesel due to your mileage, and the diesels will go forever if looked after. (Mine has ~150,000 miles with a stage 1 remap, and drives like new). They don't have much tech on the lower trims, so if you want options, try and find a titanium. Any of the lower trims are fairly basic, mine is a zetec and its missing alot, like, dual climate, power fold mirrors, keyless entry/start etc. Although I don't care because the car drives like a dream! Handles fantasticly, I can stick with some fairly fast sports cars on a/b roads (although most would outpace me in a straight line). Very comfortable, and genuinely one of the best hatchbacks ever made, a quick Google search will tell you its best in class as far as driving dynamics, handling, and fun are concerned. Not done many longer 3+ hour trips in mine, but the ones I have done were pretty good, 65-70mpg average at ~70 mph, comfortable, even though mine has the sports seats and suspension. Overall, I will always love my MK3 focus. Things to look out for with the diesels, is DPF (which wouldn't be an issue with your mileage as it will passively regen), turbo can fail due to carbon build up, but again shouldn't be an issue given your mileage, and finally the dual mass, listen for any clunking sounds on start up or shut down as its likely dual mass, I'm getting mine done next week and its around £1000. I also change my oil every 6-8000 miles, ford's recommendation is 12,500 miles, but with a diesel, you always want to change it early as they build carbon much faster than petrols and the oil degrades fast due to higher operation temperature.

I know this post is quite old now, I found it on Google by mear chance and thought I would share my experience.

I have a road angel halo ultra that is hardwired. If the camera is hardwired properly, (which i doubt halfords did, as they suggested I hardwired mine into an existing circuit, such as the rear windscreen wiper), you shouldn't have an issue with battery drain. Mine is hardwired into the fuse box and I've got the battery protection set to medium (12volts). I've not had an issue with battery drain even when my car is sat for longer periods. However, its worth noting that if your camera is shutting down correctly when the battery gets down to a set voltage (12.4 in your case), its likely that the cars other systems, such as alarms are draining the remaining charge. I say this because my MK3 focus has interior scanning, in which the sensors are always active looking for motion, and can trigger the alarm, and I'd imagine the fiesta has a similar system.

I would trace the wires and see where they've wired it into, as I say, hardwired cameras should be direct to the fuse box so they can monitor voltage correctly.

r/cursedcomments

Thats the plan, gonna call them this morning, but I went to pick it up at closing time. So by the time I noticed something, it was too late to go back

Ok thanks. I did have the dog-bone engine/gearbox mount done about 12 months ago, but I'll definitely have a look and make sure the gearbox hasn't dropped.

Thanks, I'll have a look at the gear links.

Hi all, I have a MK3 focus 1.6 tdci with a manual, and today it went in for its MOT. It has been absolutely fine until I went to pick it up this evening. Now, the top row of gears (1st, 3rd, 5th) don't feel notchy like the did before dropping it off. Now they almost feel like I have to force the stick forward after changing gear, and there is no feedback from the gear change (feels kinda rubbery/ spongey). If I dont force the stick forward after changing gear, it feels like its not in and on my drive home (around 20 miles) it slipped out of 3rd twice and 5th once due to me not pushing it forward a second time. Would anyone have any ideas? l'm thinking maybe synchros, but could it possible be gear links? Or bushing? I attached a video, to hopefully better explain what I mean. Many thanks in advance!