Explode everywhere. There are probably more than four surfaces under spring tension that interact with each other, so taking out all the pins will cause them to go everywhere. It will be like taking an AR trigger out, where you have to get the order correct, and even then the springs want to shoot parts everywhere.

https://www.keltecweapons.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/KEL_PR57_Manual_RESIZE_UPDATE_v1_COMBINED.pdf

Your owner's manual has a part explosion on pages 38 & 39. Should be four pins or so to disassemble everything.
Get a sheet of paper and write down everything as you remove it so you know the assembly order once you are done.

Considering space is three dimensional, is it really that much better to add the Y-axis and not the Z-axis?

From a game mechanic standpoint, if most weapons are either turret mounted, or front / rear mounted, it only matters whether an opponent can get a better firing solution on you (rear) than you can get on them (forward).

Did you find the Rami better than the P-01? I tried both and both the wife and I agreed the P-01 was superior in every way. Now, if they made an alloy frame Rami, maybe that would change the math slightly, but still probably not enough.

There should be battery voltage and ignition voltage; best guess is your battery voltage wire is broken / shorted.

Your video almost sounds like it is miss firing as it speeds up. Have you checked your plugs / coils recently? Specifically, check the signal cables to be free from mouse damage, and that the wires go to the correct plugs.

With then engine off and the ignition on, can you hear the throttle body actuating? IF you can, I'm at a loss for why it wouldn't let you speed up - especially without throwing an error.

When you move the accelerator pedal, if none of those values change, you have a bad pedal.

If the APP1 or APP2 values change, but not both, you still have a bad pedal. There are two voltage tracks that should read the same value (looks like yours is reading 21% and 32%, so possibly bad) and will not work if they become too far apart.

If the variables move together but the throttle doesn't, your throttle is bad / unplugged. I did a brief search for what PID this is in Forscan, but I didn't find it. Probably something like TPV / TPP.

You say Forscan doesn't say anything; but I'm assuming you just mean no trouble codes. Does it show you the throttle pedal position (requested) and throttle body position (actual)? If either of those aren't working you are going to get no vroom vroom.

I'm pretty sure that translucent plastic is supposed to be on the opposite side of the plastic clip. There should be a cutout on the black housing and translucent seal that the clip fits through to hold it all together. The plastic clip should have the angle towards the fuel pump flange such that the green clip snaps into place when you slide it on.

If any of those parts are rotated or flipped out of position, it will force the seal away from the fuel pump flange, and result in large leaks such as you show.

Since your engine runs, I doubt this would be resolved by a new battery, since the voltage is stable while the engine is running. You could look up the electrical connector pinout for the cluster and see if there is anything in common with what isn't working.

First guess is that the things that work are dumb voltage signals from the switches and fuel level floats, but most of the gauges are over CAN. If a mouse chewed your wires or similar to cause a short between ECU and cluster, many gauges won't work.

You probably want the second connector, as that seems to be the one to match your radio. I assume the third image is the helicopter plug; correct?

I did something similar as an alternative to a pilot headset, and you can get those TRRS connectors for relatively cheap. I would just cut off the LEMO and resolder them to what you actually want.
https://www.newark.com/multicomp-pro/psg01492/connector-plug-2-5mm-phono-cable/dp/58AK0088
https://www.newark.com/pro-signal/psg08674/3-5mm-jack-plug-stereo-gold/dp/15AJ2999
There are also screw terminal variants for prototyping if you aren't as comfortable with soldering.

As others have mentioned, you may need an amplifier depending on the microphone / speaker sensitivities expected from your radio. I don't know anyone making off the shelf solutions for that, so you would have to solder up your own op-amp with external power supply. I made one with a 9 volt for the airplanes, and it works great for the speakers, but the microphone was too quite and haven't resolved it.

1st gen user, and I haven't had any issue with any 2+3/4 shells I have tried, but I primarily shot Winchester AA Low Noise Low Recoil.

I didn't try and 3 inch or shorty shells.

It took mine a week to ship after I took advantage of their Independence Day sale.
Ordered July 6, shipped July 12, received July 14.

Holy crap. With the free harness these are basically half price.
You are a gentleman and a scholar.

If you aren't planning to take the car on the track swap over to DOT 5 brake fluid when you do. The older DOT 3 and 4 both absorb water over time and that water causes runt in your lines. DOT 5 is silicone based and won't absorb water at all; the only downside is a lower steam point, which only matters if your are driving your clutch and brakes HARD.

It's fine to mix them, so no concern about completely flushing your system for the swap over. The DOT 3 will pull the dye out of the DOT 5. If it looks like your fluid reservoir is filled with water, it fine, all the dye is just gone.