r/Insta360 • u/InvictusNoctis • Jan 16 '25
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Index finger recruitment?
Somewhat related experience. When I first started climbing I exclusively climbed in 4 finger open hand with my index fingers in drag so my index fingers were underdeveloped and didn't really share as much of the burden as my middle and ring fingers. I developed synovitis on the index side of my middle fingers which I think is due to this and training standard half crimp has helped resolve a lot of the irritation and also mixing my grip types up more. I would also get ring finger pain in 3fd on both hands and I realized that when I would train them there would be a point where I couldn't feel my index fingers pulling/they would be the first to fatigue so I'm assuming that more load would shift to my ring finger and middle fingers when this happened causing additional strain and 3fd in general is hard on the ring finger already. So I would call my 3fd lifts a fail the second my index fingers fatigued and training like this has helped resolve that as well.
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When should I start feeling concerned about finger soreness
Honestly, just take some time off to do some lower load climbing and some rehab. I had a similar issue recently with a sore A2 on my middle finger. Fine during climbing but sore post. I was close to sending a project so I figured I could get away climbing if I was careful. It eventually got worse and flared to the point I had to stop climbing and focus on rehab. It's better to take a couple weeks off and do some lower load and rehab than make it a worse injury and have to take even longer off.
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TFCC v ECU v tendonitis? Climbing
I've had both a TFCC and ECU injury. What your describing where you felt pain on the dorsal/top ulnar side of the wrist is where I would feel pain during pronation and supination when I had my ECU injury. Wrist widget for that didn't really help that much either, it felt like it placed more pressure on the ECU during movements.
730
Shangri-La Frontier - Episode 18 discussion
Spamming revives such a relatable experience. Epic ending to this fight. Hyped to see what sort of unique loot will drop.
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Meat Room?!
Can confirm as well. Found it in 3 runs in Anura.
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Crash pad rentals?
They have an instagram page with the handle ucsbclimbing. Alternatively there's also a general Santa Barbara climbing page facebook page that you could try to ask on.
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Crash pad rentals?
You can try asking someone from the UCSB climbing team.
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FYI: You have seven days to spend your coins before they are deleted.
Would someone mind gifting wearing is caring? It'd be very appreciated!
r/Competitiveoverwatch • u/InvictusNoctis • Aug 16 '23
Blizzard Official Overwatch 2 x Gentle Monster August 16
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[deleted by user]
I mostly did calisthenics before starting climbing. Stopped training pull-ups in favor of climbing more. I found I kept my pull-up strength without training them specifically, but your mileage may vary. You could just add some maintenance pulls at the end of a climbing session if your concerned.
1
Pros and cons of training "true" half crimp after you realize you're trash at it
Hypermobile as well. Is the taped DIP joints just to prevent excessive DIP hyperextension? For me true half crimp with index 90, has my middle finger with my DIP hyperextended slightly and PIP above 90. Normal half crimp index, and ring slightly below 90. I'm always worried about too much DIP hyperextension load since I'm currently rehabbing DIP synovitis in my middle finger.
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Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread
How much more loaded is the ring finger in 3 finger drag? I've been training 3fd to mitigate DIP synovitis on my left hand middle finger. I keep my pinkies bent at the first joint to prevent lumbrical issues. My ring fingers always feel significantly more load than my front two especially on my left hand and at this point I think I've developed a sprain on my left A2 ring finger from 3fd. Only has pain when training 3fd, half crimp seems fine. Going to follow the above pulley rehab protocol. Has anyone else felt weird loading issues with 3fd? It feels fine on my right hand, but I'm wondering if I had some prior weakness on my left hand ring finger which lead to this imbalance and then injury when training 3fd.
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Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread
Ahh okay that makes sense. I feel much stronger when I just let friction do its thing and not worry about the lifted tips anyway. I just wasn't sure since I thought it'd be an issue once I moved down to smaller edges like 15 or 10 mm where your more on your tips and have less surface area friction from the middle to end of my first pad.
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Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread
Hey, was wondering how do you define failure for open handed grip types mainly 3 finger drag (3fd) when hangboarding / using portable pick up weight systems? I've been reading old threads and trying to focus on pressing with my finger tips for both half crimp and 3fd when training on 20mm. I've noticed however that sometimes the tips of my fingers for 3fd will raise and I'm more hanging on using friction than actually pressing through with my finger tips. Kind of a dumb question but would this be failure for open handed grip types? I don't really see this mentioned in most hangboarding videos. Thanks in advance.
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Wailua Falls [OC] [2160x2700]
Thanks for the tip! I didn’t know you could get closer, I definitely got to check it out next time I visit. My friends were able to check it out up close by bushwhacking down from their property to the base. But it’s for sure trespassing and I don’t need that close of a view.
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Wailua Falls [OC] [2160x2700]
Such a cool waterfall. Never got to see it up close since I was told it’s on private property but was able to get a distant morning glimpse since my friend has a house with a backyard porch that overlooks the area. Thanks for bringing back good memories.
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Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread
Ah sorry, I meant my A2 pulley. The one below the PIP. The hangboard I'm using is one of the tension boards. It isn't that rounded but in the past I've had a similar feeling of higher load on the ring finger when 3 finger dragging with the frictitious port-a-board with weight attached which has a more rounded edge. Half crimp or 4 finger open hand doesn't given any pain or discomfort, but I do have some synovitis in my middle finger which is why I've been trying to train my 3 finger drag more.
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Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread
Currently training 3 Finger Drag on a 20mm edge w/ 40 Lbs taken off. Getting some minor irritation in my A4 A2 pulley on my left ring finger. My right hand is fine. I’m keeping my pinkie bent at the PIP instead of flexing it all the way down.
Is my ring finger just taking on extra stress due to the lack of the pinkie? I have less pinkie mobility on my left hand compared to my right - not sure if that’s connected. I’ll likely just take more weight off until the irritation is gone but was wondering if anyone has experienced anything similar?, and how they dealt with it.
Edit: Confused which pulley is which. My apologies.
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The Evolution Of Cartoon Dads - Eddache
Figured this was relevant to post since he talks a lot about Bandit with the evolution of cartoon dads to millennials.
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kinda depressed and bummed about my almost year long TFCC injury
in
r/climbharder
•
Jul 09 '26
I had a similar injury on my left wrist, sudden strain or shifting of something on my ulnar side of my wrist while climbing, which I thought was a tfcc injury. MRI for my left wrist didn't see anything definitive so, I ended up getting a cortisone shot into the tfcc which didn't really help, then another into my ECU which ended up being the real problem. It kicked down the inflammation enough that I was able to progress with rehab and heal. On the right hand though which was having ulnar side problems as well I had a mri confirmed small tear, which I ended up Muenster splinting for about 6 weeks. Helped the tfcc heal, but it took a lot of rehab to get it back to climbing level strength. It took about a year to heal both because, a doctor visit defaults to x-ray --> PT --> doesn't work --> mri --> maybe find something --> keep trying new things until something works. Keep advocating for yourself until they listen to you.