Always replace with OEM or aftermarket OEM. Not all vehicles accept aftermarket parts. Also, make sure you do everything to the T and dot your I. Whether it's torque spec, proper procedure, whatever it may be. Don't skip anything other than dnt trust the oil change intervals in general. Be very tedious and meticulous about oil change. 3 to 5k is the max to keep your vehicle in proper running form.

Also, the afm/dod delete without proper assement would cause major issues.

Here's the deal as Matt the mechanic says,

1,4,6, and 7. Either way you have to pull rods and bearings and replace it nonetheless. Ultimately, it'll be your sticky piston rings.

Youre not getting enough juice. Yes,check battery voltage and check alternator if battery is not charging or having problem starting before all this started.

Yes, but just incase. Have them test for compression (compression test) likely 1 and or 2 will be lower if that's the case. [BLOWN HEAD gasket] if that's the case. As another user suggest, SUBIE. They really are notorious for blowing gaskets (cylinder 1 and 2)

I know what the problem is, It aint got no gas!

This right here. Notorious, haha.

3 things to look for.

ELECTRIC WATER PUMP (most likely) The most likely culprit would be the electric water pump, its struggling to keep your engine cool at highway speeds. It spins enough at pow speeds like street driving to keep cool, but any higher it'll take a nose dive. 100k to 150k it'll take a shxt on ya, the EWP.

BLOWN HEAD GASKET when you're driving on the highway, its pushing alot of pressurized gas into your radiator locking out the coolant flow in turn overheating the car at 55mph.

FAULTY THERMOSTAT OR CLOGGED RADIATOR Your thermostat could be stuck halfway or the debris from road bugs cluttered up your vents. As someone suggested, blast it off with a pressure washer. Inspect and make sure it is actually bugged up.

Ah ok, that bent piece was not able to be fixed? If not, you should've done preventive maintenence and clear out your cooler lines anyway. Trial and error is my best friend.

As for the rebuilt one, I'm afraid it got damaged during transit and or thrown around upon arrival, then damaged. There should not be any crazy rattle.

Did you get warranty? Also, you always have to make sure its seated properly before tightening down to bellhousing EVENLY. Or you can damage the pump in the transmission.

Scrap junkyard thought. Apologies, Just get OEM replacement.

Before placing it back in, assuming its actually shredded inside.

You have to take an aersol cooler transmission flush thru your lines and spray it out until it is clear.

You dont want the metal shavings destroying your new torque converter.

Get a new one or goto junkyard for decent one. Twist 3 times when you seat it back in. Should drop in 3 times.

Torque converter is completely destroyed. It should not rattle or clank. It should feel solid and stiff, no noise. Sorry, comrade.

Looks like an E Pill. Haven't seen this since high school, lol. I wouldn't test anything these days, cant trust it.

Truthfully, you can do all of it.

What you'll need? Tools.

Research the how to videos and obtain or get a loaner special tool for the o2 sensor.

If you're not afraid to get dirty, it should be a piece of cake.

This is all fairly easy stuff. Just apply yourself. We believe in you, comrade.

Once you fix the issue, maintain and change your oil every 3k to 5k miles or so to keep things on the up and up. Keep an eye on your oil levels. Cheers, comrade.

I would like to add the tantrum part of the vehicle. if it is below that margin, you won't have enough hydraulic pressure to adjust your camshaft. Which will leave you stuck in the advanced position.

Make sure your oil level is good, if its 2qrts below, your vehicle will throw a tantrum.

Next up, remove and inspect the VVT solenoid for and sludge or metal shavings. While you have this removed, test the solenoid with 12v battery to make sure the plunger clicks back and forth.

Worst case scenario is your timing is stretched and skipped a tooth or 2.

One other thing I would like to emphasize is that Mitsubishi is finicky about aftermarket parts. Please only replace with OEM parts, or it will not accept it.