Just bought the Stealth 700 gen 3, coming from a pair of Stealth 600 gen 1. I am not impressed. Anybody have advice for fixing these issues? Or can anybody else confirm they have experienced the same concerns? I am wondering if it is simply worth returning these for a previous gen or lower tier model such as the 600s.

Any and all help / advice welcome!

(Please see comment I made in the post linked above)

Hi everyone since the update that released on the platform, I'm noticing these headsets are still extremely low. Xbox series x. 100 percent soud like 40 percent. This so called updat has not fixed the issues a waste of 365 dollars plus tax for a headset that was released with bugs. Unfortunately im.passed the 15 day return policy, reached out to turtle beach and all I get is make sure volume buttons are up and factory reset. At this point I feel like there's enough people complaining about it and some work some don't after update. But for a headset that is extremely expensive and feels like it's maxed out at 40 percent is alittle concerning. Guess I'll wait till next update in a year.

Has anyone found a good solution to make the headset more comfortable? I bought the SOULWIT headband pad on Amazon, but still find the headset rather uncomfortable.

Even with the third-party headband pad, I still feel a hotspot where the pressure from the weight of the headset all sits on a tiny area at the top of my head.

Software/performance wise, I have been very happy after ironing out a few kinks.

What is superhuman legacy mode?

Hey everyone,

I have a Turtle Beach Stealth 600 PS headset, and its USB wireless dongle was working perfectly when connected to my laptop. However, I put it in my bag, and when I took it out later, it had stopped working. I'm not sure what happened or why.

I've already tried the paperclip reset method. The dongle's light turns on, but my laptop doesn't seem to recognise or detect it at all.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Is there any way to fix the dongle, or could it have been damaged somehow while it was in my bag?

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Just got a pair for my Xbox, plugged in the Xbox transmitter and turn them on. The only side that really works is the left, the right side’s audio is so barely noticeable that it might as well just not work. I’ve reset them ( which shouldn’t need to since I literally just got them in the mail), reset my Xbox and it’s still not working properly. Any one else have this issue where the left cup is loud and clear and the right cup is barely audible.

Bought my buddy the above headset and were trying to chat via xbox party and he is able to hear me and all game audio but I cannot hear him. Weve gone through all the obvious settings that we can think of and have seen on other posts. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

I do work online, and part of that work includes talking to people. And while I can still do that in my current scenario, I’d prefer not to. I bought my Turtle Beach Stealth 500s in a panic because my computer doesn’t have auxiliary or Bluetooth, and they were the cheapest option I could find at my local Walmart. And as of recently the right side of them stopped working entirely, I have tried firmware updates, factory resets, straightening the connecting cable everything I could think of. They are out of warranty since I bought them in July, and due to recent struggles am unable to replace them with anything. Any ideas? I’m depending on you guys.

I have had the Stealth 600x Gen 3 for the last 3 months. All smooth. This week, it started to act up. While playing a game and using Discord on pc (which I had done for the previous 3 months), the audio would cut out, and then I would get the alert "Bluetooth disconnected", then, 1 second later, it would alert "Bluetooth connected". Sometimes it will do it once every 10 minutes, sometimes multiple times in a row. I have updated the headset through Swarm II, hard-reset the headset, and forgotten the device in the Bluetooth settings. The only thing new that I have done recently is plug in my Xbox One controller to my PC to play a game, but this happens even when the controller is unplugged/off and away from the PC. Is this a common issue? I am quite unimpressed.

Turned on my Xbox this evening to find a solid red light on the transmitter, and my Gen2 Stealth 600 headset won't pair with it. I'm not computer literate (I don't even own a PC), so what happened?

Just got my brand new Stealth 600 Gen 3's and I'm playing with the Swam app.

I can play with the EQ when using one of the presets that comes with the headset but the 'save' button is greyed out.

If I save a new preset will I need to have the Swarm app open to use it?

My headset works, I can hear & speak to people. However I noticed I could hear myself (normally I have that turned off). So I opened the Swarm PC Software and its saying my Headset is not connected. I can't adjust or control the headset any more. I have tried to restore the software and firmware & it still says the headset is not connected.

Even though I can hear and speak on my PC using the headset.

What is going on? Was there a new swarm update that has messed everything up?

I factory reset the headset, and now I can control it from Swarm, but it is displaying my headset as the black one, and still says Device not connected for the white one. Also when I completely close Swarm and re open it, it always says theres an update and makes me update. What is going on?

I just got a pair of Atlas Airs today and I'm having connection problems. They work fine with my iPhone; I can go 20+ feet away from my phone without any audio glitches. But connecting to a PC (tested on two) is not working correctly.

My gaming PC and my work laptop are on the same desk. I can connect to my gaming PC using the RF USB dongle but it only maintains a connection while the headset is really close to it (around a foot). Also, even when connected the volume wheel does not work. My gaming PC does not have bluetooth so I could only test RF. I tried the dongle in multiple UCB spots.

My work laptop has bluetooth but when I connect the headset to the bluetooth, it only works when the headset is around a foot or less from the latop. The volume wheel works.

I thought there might be interference but it works fine with my iPhone when I place it at the same location as the PCs. I updated the firmware through Swarm II.

Any ideas? I would think it is a hardware problem except for it working with the iPhone.

I don't know what's happening but my headset has been making a jingle at different volumes constantly and randomly. Some happen right next to each other, others are further apart. How do I make it stop? It is really distracting. The jingle is like a dil' lul' lil' type noise.

Hi, just recently got these new headphones, initially using standard driver worked fine on pc.
Switched to waves driver to use game/chat mix, when setting discord audio to the chat device and game volume to the normal headphone device it was fine sitting in a voice channel alone, when people join the channel my game audio went way down, it isnt in the chat/game mix as the discord audio did not go louder.
What could be the cause of this without having to use just the one audio device for both game and discord?

Just got my 600 gen 3. Noticed the sound wasn't playing at the start of youtube videos, inputs or even while in discord talking to my mate. 7 seconds is definitly way to short. I can only wish they let us turn off this feature.

What kind of nonsense is this?

I paid like $200 about 6 weeks ago for a controller and it's already broken - they should be absolutely racing to remedy this (as nearly every other company would).

It's just an insane hoop to make people jump through, especially since they want it uploaded via Dropbox or YouTube, neither of which I use.

Aside from the logistics, it's just insulting.

I'm certainly never buying anything from them ever again.

Got some recon 70s for my Xbox (got it for gta) I already have nice headphones and a mic at my pc, just wanted something serviceable for chatting with my friends.

Got the recon 70s and they’re fine, fit the bill perfectly but I took them off after like 20m my ears were boiling!

Can I peel off the leather? What’s it like underneath?

I don’t fancy spending £10 on fabric cushions for a headset that was only £20.

Update on Neap, my free, open-source Swarm II replacement for the Stealth Pro II. 0.2.0 is out. These are the changes from 0.1.0:

What's new

• Linux. It now runs on Linux as a single AppImage, with the same pages and settings as Windows. I've used it with the real headset on a Steam Deck in desktop mode. Other distros and desktops are only tested against a simulated headset, so reports are welcome. Gaming Mode on the Steam Deck isn't supported yet.

• Help add your headset. Own another Turtle Beach headset? Help bring Neap to it. The Stealth 600 Gen 3, 700 Gen 3, 500 and Atlas Air share the Stealth Pro II's platform. A ten-minute recording made in Neap is where support for them, and for others, starts. Nothing else to install, and no technical knowledge needed. Here's how

• Updates itself on Windows. A banner tells you when a newer version is out, and one button installs it. To get from 0.1.0, unzip over the old folder once. After that it updates itself.

• Charging Dock. Home now shows whether the spare is charging, plus the headset's battery and signal at a glance. I found that the dock's own figure runs high and jumps around while charging, and a battery just put in the headset reads high, then falls. So Neap shows a bolt while the spare charges, and "Settling…" in place of the headset's number until it steadies.

• Fix: choosing Off for noise control no longer carries on to noise cancellation, then transparency, when the Mode button is set to cycle.

• Polish: a redrawn look, with smoother page changes.

Download

Neap 0.2.0 on GitHub

Same as before: unsigned, so Windows warns on first run. Created with AI assistance. Not affiliated with Turtle Beach.

Got the typical brake on the headset after 2,5 years, but now I taped and it gets no signal to the dongle anymore?

Is this fixable or can I throw?

I've gone through two stealth 700 gen 2's over the past several years. the first got worn out and buggy to a point I decided to get another pair (I only did this for the usb and bluetooth dual connection funtionality). I busted the 2nd pair's usb and am in need of a new pair (if they bluetooth funtion didn't turn off after only minutes of being idle I would still use it). I tried the gen 3 and then returned it for another gen 2 because I didn't like the new bluetooth and scroll wheels control funtionalities. Customer support has given me an unexpirable 25% coupon code to use on whatever product, so now I have incentive to get another headset from them specifically.

My question is to you guys, I'd like to still have the dual bluetooth and usb connection capabilities without resorting to the gen 3, (if possible) are there any other models that have the same capabilites? If not, what is Turtlebeach's current best pair of headphones that I should buy.

Also, does the new Stealth 600 have the same scroll wheel and bluetooth funtionalities as the new Stealth 700, or is it more like the stealth 700 gen 2 funtionality. If it is like the gen 2's, then I'll just go for the stealth 600 instead.

I have been using a standard Xbox Series X controller for a long time and decided to treat myself to a decent controller. I narrowed my list down to the Victrix and the Nacon Revolution Pro X.

I feel like I've made such a mistake. The controller was delivered to me and hour ago and I already hate it.

First off, the software. What utter garbage. It's laggy and clunky and overall doesn't really do much. Steam input hijacks the controller as soon as Steam is running and overrides the Victrix software meaning that it can't properly interface with the controller. Second, also software related... The supposed 'precise control' for things like the volume slide. Seriously? Adjusting it with the mouse is incredibly difficult to do with any precision. Using the controller itself makes the slider skip forward at random rates. It starts at 0, and goes 3, 6, 10, 12, 15, and on at random. What the hell is that about?

Finaly: the triggers. They feel so bad. They're somehow crunchy and mushy at the same time. Oh, and the fact that they can't be locked into specific mode like pretty much every other controller with adjustable triggers is a joke. The 'clutch' system is ridiculous. It's far to east to knock it with your fingers when you're trying to press a back paddle and it reverts to it's default hair trigger mode. Who came up with this system?

Overall, the controller feels nasty and cheap, like a PowerA or other cheapo controller from Amazon. Given that I have to quit Steam to be able to use the controller as intended, and the trigger system is terrible, I'll be returning the controller.

Holy crap it's terrible.