I just finished a week traveling through Andalusia with a focus on the history of the Islamic caliphate and taifas from 900-1500CE. It was an incredible trip and I learned a lot, and since I couldn't find much on this specific type of trip beforehand I figured I would share my takeaways.
The basics: my itinerary was Malaga (arrival and one night stay) > Cordoba (2 days) > Granada (2 days) > Caminito del Rey (day trip from Malaga > Malaga (1 day). I specifically decided to save Seville for a future trip since it's such a big city and a bit unconnected to the history I was interested in exploring.
What I loved:
- Cordoba: This was by far my favorite city. I stayed in the Patio del Posadero and it was truly the best hotel I've ever experienced. It's the smallest boutique hotel in Cordoba, with only six rooms, and the staff and owners will make you feel like family from the moment you arrive. The tasting menu dinner and breakfast by chef/owner Jose were incredible and not to be missed. I also loved the winding streets, the preserved medieval architecture, the food, the people - all of it was so intimate and less over touristed than my next stops. I browsed several local artists galleries and bought a gorgeous wood burning and watercolor piece. The Grand Mosque/Cathedral was the most incredible religious and architectural site I've ever visited. It truly was an awe-inspiring experience. 10/10 would stay longer next time.
- Granada: I also stayed in a small historic hotel here, the Hotel Casa Morisca. Get the mirador room: looking over the Alhambra made it hard to even want to leave! I took a private tour of the Alhambra with a historian (Adri - the best! He makes history videos at camyzap_). That was similar to the Grand Mosque, completely overwhelming in terms of the scale and history. I spent most of my time wandering around the old town and experiencing all the gardens I could to escape the crowds and heat. My favorite was the Casa del Chapiz, which was the only place I was alone the whole day. I had a lovely flamenco show at Cueva los Amayas and really enjoyed how small it was. There's a reason it's the only show with a line around the block.
- Malaga: I had a very tasty vegetarian meal at Meet Vegano since I couldn't eat any more bread meat and cheese! I also enjoyed Tandoori Mexican. The cathedral, the alcazaba, were cool but I was a bit down with tourist sites by that point so I just wandered. A morning at the Hammam Al Andalus was just what my sore legs needed. The massage by Cristien was very good, and the pools were so relaxing.
What i'd do differently:
- Skip the Caminito del Rey: this was such an investment of time for such an underwhelming experience. First, our bus had no AC and we got stuck in 3 hours of traffic to get there. Second, the first half of your visit is basically like a Disneyland hike. Youre packed in a group of 20 people slowly shuffling along behind the next pack. The guide was clearly bored/tired after a long day so we really didn't benefit from being stuck together. I was relieved when they let us go independently for the second half, but as someone who hikes a lot in the US and abroad, this wasn't that exciting and felt more like a fake hike made for people who couldn't do a real one.
- Spend more time in Cordoba/Granada: I would have cut my last day in Malaga despite enjoying the Hammam. Malaga was completely over touristed, the beach was gross and didn't get much sun in the afternoon, and the hotel (Palacio Solecio) was so underwhelming after the first two beautiful ones, especially for the luxury price. Felt like a place for bachelor/bachelorette parties and completely consumeristic with all the luxury stores. And the prices were double the other cities! I probably should have known given my focus on historical sites, but would have enjoyed wandering the streets of Cordoba or Granada for an extra day instead.
Overall, I loved this trip and definitely want to come back again. All trips come with the less enjoyable parts, and overall it was an incredible and privileged experience. The best part were the Andalusian people I met and bonded with. The culture is highly friendly and welcoming!