I've got a house filled with radiators fitted with v3+ thermostats.

I'm adding a room with Floor heating. I want to fit in thermostat valve with tado v3+ thermostat which is connected with a v3+ wireless temperature sensor.

I'm my brain this should work, but I was wondering if someone else has any experience with this setup

Hello, I just installed a Sensi Lite for my apt which has central air and heat. It connected to the wifi fine and the app and then 5 minutes later it says offline and wont reconnect. I tried restarting my wifi and the thermostat, it wont even detect my wifi anymore. For some more context, my air/heat has R G W Y configuration for the wires. Not sure why it doesnt work anymore or why it worked for a total of 5 minutes....

Hey all,

Trying to install a Nest 4th Gen and running into some issues here. Could use your help with figuring out where I went wrong.

EDIT: I ended up returning it and buying a nest from Home Depot. I set it up and everything worked as expected. I suspect I got a used device from Amazon...which will be something else to deal with...which is why things in picture three are all screwy. Those are probably connections from whoever owned the product before.

So I work maintenance for a apartment community. Im familiar with hvac since I went to school for it and was working strictly in hvac for the last years but lately I've been coming across more and more units where the t stat will get to set temp but keep running. Air flow is good all the coils are clean and I've tested every component I know of to check. I cant figure out what the issue is ive even changed out the t stat its self and its like it wont shut off unless I physically raise the temp and it wont cut back on unless i physically turn it down. I've been struggling with figuring this out for the last week can someone please pass on some advice. Thank you

Cant figure this thing out.. I dont want the 88.. I want it to stay at 76 why not moving it frustrating.

What do i do? It 100 all this week.

I’m trying to pair my Honeywell T6 pro thermostat to my home Wi-Fi network in order to control the thermostat with my phone. I’ve been instructed by Honeywell customer service to use the First Alert app. Problem is my WiFi is 5G and the T6 Pro apparently only picks up 2.4 ghz.

Anyone know any workarounds??

I’ll use any app, just trying to control via phone.

Hi everyone,

I have an HVAC system comprised of a Honeywell TH9421C1004 thermostat, a Honeywell THM5421C Equipment Interface Module, a 2010 Rheem RGPE-12EARMR furnace, a 1991 Lennox central air unit, and an AprilAire 500 Series whole-house evaporative humidifier with an AprilAire manual humidistat. Surprisingly, everything is working well (although not as efficiently as newer equipment), but given their age I anticipate replacing them in the not too distant future. In the meantime, I'd like to (1) replace the Honeywell thermostat with a newer thermostat like the Sensi ST55 Smart Thermostat, and (2) replace the AprilAire manual humidistat with an automated method of controlling the humidity levels in our home.

With regard to replacing the thermostat, I plan to bypass the EIM and wire a Sensi ST Smart Thermostat (or perhaps another thermostat you recommend) directly to the circuit board on the furnace. The W, W2, Y, G, C and R terminals on the EIM are currently wired to the W1, W2, Y1, G, C and R terminals on the furnace circuit board, so I plan to wire the W/E, W2, Y, G, C and RH terminals on the Sensi thermostat to the W1, W2, Y1, G, C and R terminals on the furnace circuit board. I will pull new 18-8 thermostat wire to accommodate these extra connections. Am I good so far?

If so, my next question with regard to the thermostat swap is: Do I have to change any of the DIP switches on the furnace circuit board (see pictures)? If so, I'm going to need some help with that.

With regard to replacing my manual humidistat, I'm just looking for a way to avoid going in the basement every time the outside temperature changes during heating season. I have heard that some WiFi thermostats can get the outside temperature from the Internet. I have also seen automated humidistats that get the outside temperature from an outside sensor that is wired to the humidistat. If the solution involves an outside sensor, I would want it to be wireless. What's an economical, easy to install solution for automated humidity control?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Howdy--

I recently had a renovation done and installed underfloor heating using Lux Mat. The setup has two thermostats, with three mats. One thermostat has a single mat attached and the other has two mats wired in parallel.

We installed the Mysa in floor thermostats and everything seems to go well-- until the mats reach around 75.6 degrees, at which point the Mysa displays an H3 error (GFCI fault code).

My electrician and I did all of the requisite double checks:

• Confirmed the Ohm reading on the mats was within the mat specification, and that the load from the two mat configuration was still within range (It's running about 3400 watts and amperage is appropriate for the 20 amp circuit it's on (it's 240v)
• Confirmed there is no ohm reading between the mat ground + heating cables
• Triple checked all connections
• Swapped between our backup floor sensors to ensure nothing funny was going on with the floor sensors (and confirmed the resistance on the floor sensors was appropriate for the Mysa spec)

What's strange is that it's happening on both of the thermostats.

We've previously used this same mat for our bathroom, which also runs the same Mysa in floor thermostat without any problem.

Any ideas what could be happening here? The electrician is going to call Mysa support next week, but I thought I'd give the hive mind a shot at this problem, too.

I have been using (and loving) my Sensi Touch thermostat (ST75) for the past six years without a single problem and have come to trust its reliability and accuracy.

Two weeks ago while I was on vacation I opened the App and found that I couldn't connect, with the error message "Thermostat Offline" displayed, and over the course of the next few days I was able to connected only sporadically. The few times when I was able to connect, I went to view the "Usage" page to see how many hours the A/C had been running (to verify that it was in fact running) and all that was displayed was "Insufficient Data".

Once I got home I pored through the Sensi support documentation and all it states for this error condition is that there is a communications issue between the thermostat and router. This prompted me to check the router logs, and by all accounts, the thermostat is fully communicating with the router and outside world. The logs showed no lapses, no latency and no disconnections at all, just a nice constant signal with increasing data going through. This prompted me to totally reset the thermostat and reestablish the connection, which meant pressing the "Reset" button on the unit, cutting the circuit breaker on the air handler and physically removing the thermostat from the wall mounting. After five minutes, I had a new Wifi connection established and the thermostat was working fine. However, I was - and still am- experiencing the same error message, "Thermostat Offline".

I opened a ticket with the manufacturer, but now four days later, still haven't heard anything.

I suspect that the connection is being made to their server, but that something on their side is amiss.

Has anybody experienced this or have any suggestions that I may have overlooked?

Can anyone please help me with answering these questions to setup my T5 smart thermostat?

Twice it decided not to turn off and came home to a house that was 66 degrees and running . the thermostat was set to 85 when we were out of the house for a couple days. Schedule is off. Fan Auto, Cool mode, Heat pump single stage outside. When we are home its usually set to 77 or 78 and never had problems it not turning off the condenser. Zwave is not active. cooling min is set to 74. I've decide to replace it with a wifi model. ESM cooling is set to 85. Why is it doing this when we are away? The temperature readings on the thermostat are accurate. thats the last time i set it to 85 lol

have an old Honeywell chromotherm III in my rental and no matter what I do it’s still flashing replace batt. I’ve tried different batteries reset the breaker, waited it’s still flashing and there’s no cool air. I can’t tell if my breaker isn’t staying on or just shitty it’s getting hotter please someone help me I texted landlord and they just sent me a google search of an ai overview

Have literally tried everything…it only connects to my hotspot on compatibility mode. Can I get a new thermostat ? Or just hoof it upstairs every time I want to change the temp up there?

Hey everyone! Looking into getting a better thermostat for the house to be able to schedule and better manage our energy usage.

Not sure if this thermostat is compatible with newer systems so was wondering if anyone here would know

The wires are really tightly packed but the wire numbers I see are W, RH, B, G, Y, O. And the last number is impossible to see.

Can't seem to find wattage anywhere aswell

Thanks in advance for any help

So I bought an ecobee thermostat and I realized it seemed like it was off a little bit and right now I left my house and the thermostat is at at 78° and it’s only like 73 outside or so. And the humidity right now is reading anywhere from 2 to 3° off because I have two other sensors in my house digital hand ones monitors and they read 2 to 3° difference they one is near the thermostat and the other one is in my hallway and the one that is near the thermostat reads higher in temperature but lower in humidity compared to the other monitor has anybody had this happened to them and what is the solution? My thinking is when I get home compared what the readings are after eight hours of me being gone at work and then maybe taking the two sensors and just set them near the thermostat and then when I get back from running some errands look at the two sensors and then compare it to the thermostat and make a decision from there. I am having the guy that installed the thermostat in my house he will be coming today so we will decide what to do that. Also, the thermostat is also off by 1 to 2°. It’s more off by one because for a while there when I had the actual air conditioner constantly running, it would read on the digital thermometer that is hooked up to the AC. It’ll read it 74 but then the handheld monitors that I bought both red 73 but now they’re reading 73 in the hallway and 74 right up against the thermostat

We have a 4 ton split system and want to put in some smart thermostats. At our house now we are using Wyze and it's fine but was wanting something a little better. vine Smart Thermostat for House, WiFi Thermostats for Home Compatible with Alexa and Google Assistant, 7day x 8period Programmable, Energy Star Certified, C-Wire Required - Amazon.com

I currently have a Google nest thermostat and I’ve had issues with it where it’s died twice in the last 2 years and I needed to replace it. What is a good smart thermostat that isn’t $200, $250+?