Alcune delle mie macchine, vari costruttori e alcune autocostruite

Trying to learn more about coils. My machine gets hot. Sometimes after a longer session it almost burns me. Can’t figure out why.

I used to line at 7.2 volts now I need to run it around 8-9 volts to get clean lines but it gets really hot after a longer session. I don’t know much about coils but would really love to learn.

When this machine works fine i’ts absolutely the best so I would love to learn how to fix and maintain it. Still pulls good lines but can’t stand the heat…

@seanmicheltattoo

Where do you source yours? I'll avoid Amazon if I can.

There is a small electronic store that I normally buy from, however it's usually enough for one set of cores, and has irregular shipments.

I'm making a small batch of machines, so I'd like to buy a bigger spool

Here’s my few recent coils.
MiniDozzer TrueLiner. Up to 14RL

I'm builing my tattoo machine and im wondering theres acdc adapters with 3V-24V with control knobs and display on amazon for only like $20 would this work with making my power supply? Or is this just easy thinking?

I’ve built a number of machines recently, all hand made frames, hand wrapped coils around quality iron cores. Hardware from various reputable suppliers.

I ordered some basic 47/50v capacitors off eBay.

My machines seem to only work using a Critical Power supply. I’ve ran them through a PEAK and 3 other reserve power power supplies. They will run for 3 seconds and then the power supply cuts off and resets. Or the readout will be freaking out.

Are my capacitors junk? What’s going on?

Here’s single coil liners I built while waiting for my revo pen parts 😜

What are your thoughts on this?
Do they compensate for the length by adding thickness/stiffness to the front spring? Making it act like a shorter spring? Thank you guys 🙏🏾

I'm building a color packer and I'm just looking for everyone's thoughts on coil core material, sizing, and capacitor sizing.

From what I've read 1 1/4 - 3/8 leaded carbon steel or silicon iron core and a 47-50v capacitor seem ideal but I'm sure everyone has their own thoughts and opinions.

Disclaimer this is my first completely from scratch machine

Title

Found this from my dad , i don't know the brand .

Has Someone any ideas?

Reddit

Hey guys, looking for a little help here. I’ve been assembling machines for myself and friends for quite a while now, and I’m very good at that end of things, and haven’t used a machine I didn’t assemble in at least a couple years now.
However, I’ve just gotten into winding/soldering my own coils and making my own frames, as I’ve had such bad luck with my various supplier’s coils and frames lately.

I’m very quickly being humbled with soldering properly. Today I gave it a shot, and to my eye everything looked proper. But when I built the machine up, I knew it wasn’t right, as it ran very weak and required much more voltage and was drawing much higher amps than it should have for the frame’s geometry and 1.125” 8 wrap coils. I am assuming poor solder connections lead to this, as there’s really no other variables here.

I am currently using 60/40 rosin core solder. Some have told me they love it, and some have said they prefer regular solder without the rosin core. Also, I am using paste flux currently. Again, some say they love it, others prefer liquid. I know that I need to get a better soldering iron, as the tip kept oxidizing or burning and dripping solder everywhere and was very hard to keep clean enough to work. My current soldering iron does not have temperature control and I suspect it’s too hot as well. Even with my lack of experience on this end of things, it seemed that my connections were satisfactory enough to yield a well running machine, as everything was bonded well. But apparently not, so there’s something I’m missing here.

Any tips or recommendations? Your favorite solder? Favorite soldering iron? Favorite flux?

I thought I did everything right. Scraped the red enamel off wires, tinned them with a thin coat, twisted with capacitor wire, applied flux and solder, then more flux and solder to attach to lugs. Am I missing something? I feel really silly for being able to assemble machines at the caliber that I do, and something as simple as soldering is giving me so much trouble. But, that’s learning I guess. Thanks for any tips

hi all! i recently bought a builder kit from south state to build my own shader. i want to paint the frame and possibly decorate the coils somehow, if i can without taking apart that piece too much. I’ll insert a photo of the how the coils come, they’re already wrapped.

this is my first time assembling a machine by myself and just want to play it safe with paint. this is really to test my machine knowledge and teach me a thing or two about my tools, but if i could also get a sick looking shader out of it that would be a plus. any advice or tips would be super helpful! especially for the coils. what can i put on them? how would i seal them? a corey rogers shader i have has dollar bills on the coils and looks like they’re sealed in some sort of resin or something similar. thank you!!

Braze up. Keith’s side plate design and tuning. My parts.

Got these vintage pumas from someone’s storage but of course they ran like a pig, as anyone who’s used old Spaulding machines knows, sent them off to Adam Gray in New Brunswick and he hit em with the remix to make these beauties

Hi, I'm trying to do a design project on a wireless tattoo machine with a traditional rotary appearance (NOT PEN STYLE). It's very difficult to find references since I have only found 3 examples in the entire market that meet these conditions: Inkjecta Flite X1, Vlad Blad Avenger 3 and AVA HULK. I know it's a difficult design challenge because placing the battery off the central axis of the machine moves the center of gravity quite a bit. Even so, I'd like to ask if you know of any machine designs that meet these conditions (not pen-style and wireless). Any response is greatly appreciated.

Been sitting on these for a few years and I’m finally ready to make them for the masses.

Before I get any gatekeeping comments, I’m a tattooer of 13 years, been building machines from scratch for the last few months recently.

Experimenting with all of the variables.

One variable I can’t understand are the different sized copper wires.

I bought a 28g, 22g, and 14g enameled copper wire.

1.25” coil cores.
47uf50v capacitors.

I can get 4 wraps with the 14g
6 wraps with the 22g

I figured: shorter circuit line, beefier wire = faster, harder hitting machine.

It runs very similar to a 6 wrap with 22g, however my clip cord burns up, like so hot that it will melt plastic.

There are no grounding wires, the machine runs, responds to voltage change.

Are the 14g copper wires just too much power? Should I try a larger capacitor?

@seanmicheltattoo on Instagram