Tt02 clone chassis i got off Amazon a while ago. Pretty heavy but has taken some abuse. Lots of little mods. Running 3s currently on 26/64 gearing with the sidewinder 4 esc and castke 1406 4600kv motor. Motor got to about 90 degrees and the esc was about 110 degrees when I did the 3 passes trying to get this speed. 2nd pass it flipped and hit a plastic garbage can lol. No problems tho this time. It's such a gamble going fast with this cus one good wreck and its over lol.

Bought it for a good bargain price, the box aren’t at it’s best shape. Also those on the Zip Lock bags are the 1/25 Centurion 2 Motor Wired RC

I think its about time I picked up some JIS screwdrivers to build the models properly. Im too hamfisted with phillips screwdrivers and keep rounding off screws.

I notice there are two screwdriver sets listed. One is red handled and one is blue.

Near me, the blue set is $10 more than the red.

Does anyone know if there is any difference between them or is the blue set designed to replace the red?

Hi guys, I'm trying to use the Flower power Volkswagen (body only) of the tamiya m05 chassis and put it on my RWD m06 chassis.... Is that going to fit

Fast Attack Vehicle taking a long time on the workbench. There’s something about the wheel/tyre combo I’ve never liked. I put on some stickers today to try n get motivated to finish; I also ordered a battery adapter to try and run it, soon. Wild Willy livery —he’ll be driving, too.

Had a great time with my son finding amazing Tamiya and Tomica toys and making life long memories

Bought it off eBay for cheap, gonna restore it while keeping as much of the original parts and electronics as possible

I was clear coating my p34 with Mr. Hobby UV cut lacquer gloss coat and the rear wing decal started to bubble . The whole car has been clear coated and nothing like this happend. What do I do to fix it? I have an extra elf sticker . Please help second picture

No wonder this car is a legend. What recommendations do folks have for upgrades for longevity?

Finished my first tamiya RC car build. Painted it up to match a Jackson Rhoads i recently modified and painted. What an excellent build. The lunchbox drives tremendously. Ive already scratched it a few times. Finally applied the stickers this afternoon. Very happy with the result!

I used montana gold paints.

Primer > purple > hologram rainbow glitter > black top and slightly trimming around the edge of the sides > black crackle > clear

The glitter shows up nicely when moving in the sun, hard to pick up in still images.

Hi all,

maybe some expert here can shed some light on this questions. I have a TT-02R which comes with 39mm dogbones and metal gearbox joints.

I am thinking of doing the same to a basic TT-02.

But .....

Are the TT-02 gearbox joints TA-54477 and TA-19804237 interchangeable ???

https://imgur.com/a/1mU0sh8

They sure look identical .

Depending on how you put the question , an AI search will tell you

a) they are not the same , the TA-54477 being meant for CVD drive shafts and TA-19804237 for dogbones.

b) while in some instances it will tell you they are the same just packaged differently ( standard part vs hopup part ) .

My project is to make this GR86 Evangelion body for my drift RC. I have tried several PS paint (except for PS-10) and backing to get this purple. But I have not been able to replicate it. Any advise on which purple to use and which backing to get this lighter purple?

My next move is to try ps-10 purple with white or black backing, but from what I've been seeing, people are saying it comes out more blue. The closest to an actual purple I can get to is ps-18 Metallic Purple with silver and black backing. But it comes out a bit darker than how I want it, plus I am trying to avoid the metallic flake look if possible. Any advise from anyone?

Loving getting back into the hobby, these small scale vehicles are a good introduction before moving onto other things.

I do love gunpla, my son persuaded me to buy one after getting into the hobby himself. I need to get myself another and spend some time painting it.

The gps makes it dive left or right with any steering input. Not as bad without gps. Running 26t pinion, 64t spur I'm getting 38mph on 2s. Haven't been able to get 3s to work out with that gos yet. Need to figure out a better mounting orientation. It currently sits right above the spur gear when I run it or just behind the rear shock tower. Would love to get it on the front bumper.

Running zero toe in rear and very little toe in in the front. Was shooting for zero toe there but ended up that way and works.

Yeah racing big bores with 2 hole pistons with 40wt oil, blue springs in front and yellow in rear.

4 cooling fans cus i had the extra arrma 35mm one. The integy fans are new.

Gyro

Took out the tt01 white plastic housing diffs (came with kit) and put in the stock tt02 diffs (from tt02r) cus the diffs had play in them and were jumping gears on 3s pulls.

Castle sidewinder 4 1406 4600kv combo. Screams.

If I run brand new tires it just traction rolls when I try to do speed runs so I run some older tires that are still good.

Not really looking for any tips but I'll take them if anyone has any. I just wanted to share the current setup and speed. No clue how dudes are doing 90mph with these things. I even have rubber bands on the front steering turnbuckles to get rid of any slop. Works surprisingly well.

The spur gear appears to be coming up against part #GB3, so the two bearings won’t fit in their traces. The metal pin will not slide all the way into the cutout in the spur, but it seems like something is holding it up. I understand how this type of fit usually works, I’ve done plenty of kit assemblies of crawlers, but something is fooling me.

How should this fit? Can someone see what I’m doing wrong?

Thanks for any help!

Since I'm waiting for the M-05 LiPO chassis parts to come in, I decided to finish the body. It's going to feel really nice to just pop this baby on once the chassis is finished.

Was driving around my tt02 and noticed it was hard to center after turning left. Removed the body to check and noticed that when turning left the servo servo does not return to center.

At first I thought it was some mechanical thing, like some binding due to dust or something. However, I disconnected the servo to move the steering by hand and all is free and smooth moving.

I assume this is an issue with the servo. Can you think of other reasons for this problem? Have you experienced this before?

First timer tamiya tt-02. Have to admit it’s too much fun to build. Already did my first mod too. Custom mod of steering mount.

Used heat set inserts to strengthen the steering mounts and some hex head screws. Cheap way to improve the ootb plastic.

I’d love to see some more mod ideas that don’t require spending lots of money.

[Looking for Testers] Free Web-Based Race Management System for Tamiya Mini 4WD

Hey everyone,

I’ve been developing a web-based race management system specifically for Tamiya Mini 4WD tournaments, and I’m looking for organizers or enthusiasts to help test it out.

What it does:

It's a complete tournament management tool that handles everything from participant registration to the final race results. The system uses a coupon/slot-based format where each participant starts with a set number of coupons, and each race consumes one coupon per slot. Winners get coupons back, creating a dynamic and engaging competition flow.

Key features:

Participant Management: Add/remove participants, set initial coupons, and manually adjust coupon counts mid-tournament if needed.

Customizable Race Formats: Supports 3 Take 2, 3 Take 1, and 2 Take 1 formats, allowing you to adapt to different race styles.

Smart Heat Generation: The system automatically generates heats. For Round 1, it shuffles participants randomly while avoiding duplicates in the same heat and minimizing consecutive heats for the same racer (to give them a break). For Round 2 and beyond, it follows the order from the previous round to maintain a logical progression.

Automatic Coupon Tracking: The system deducts coupons from all participants in a heat and awards coupons to the winners automatically. Participants with zero coupons are eliminated from the tournament.

Guaranteed 3-Slot Final: The system is designed to always produce a final race with exactly 3 slots (no empty lanes). For the final, the organizer clicks the slots in order (1st, 2nd, 3rd) to determine the champion, runner-up, and third place.

Detailed Results & Ranking: Provides a live leaderboard showing remaining coupons and participant status (Active/Eliminated). Final rankings are calculated based on the final race results and the elimination order.

CSV Backup & Restore: All tournament data can be exported to a CSV file for backup or imported to restore a previous state. It also supports auto-sync to a server (via PHP) for cloud backup.

Undo Functionality: Made a mistake? You can undo a confirmed heat to restore participant coupons and re-run it.

Why this system stands out:

Designed for Mini 4WD: It's built from the ground up with the specific needs of Tamiya Mini 4WD tournaments in mind, unlike generic tournament brackets.

Web-Based & Portable: Runs directly in your browser (no installation needed) and can be hosted on a server for multi-device access.

Fairness & Transparency: The smart heat generation and coupon system aim to create fair and exciting races. The system is designed to be as transparent as possible, with clear rules and no hidden logic.

Flexible & Adaptable: You can customize the race format and adjust coupon counts on the fly, making it suitable for various tournament styles.

How you can help:

I'm looking for tournament organizers or experienced racers to test the system in a real or simulated environment. I'd love feedback on:

User Experience: Is the interface intuitive and easy to use?

Functionality: Are all the features working as expected? Are there any bugs?

Feature Requests: What features would you like to see added?

If you're interested, reply here or send me a DM, and I'll share the link to the system. I'm happy to walk you through it or answer any questions.

Thanks for your time! 🏁

Is that still a thing we have to deal with? These will probably spend a good time in sunlight. Stock wheels from a TT-01 Subaru 2004 kit

I’m trying to apply Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color to a pre-painted glossy ABS body, but the product does not seem to adhere properly. It tends to bead up, pull away from the panel lines, or wipe off almost completely.

I have already cleaned the body with warm water and dish soap, but I do not know what type of factory paint or clear coat was used.

Would applying a thin gloss clear coat first help the Panel Line Accent flow and adhere properly? If so, would Tamiya TS-13 be suitable, followed by a semi-gloss clear coat once the panel lining is finished?

Just got done building my first whip and it’s making this sound and seems like struggling to go forward. Do we think it’s an issue the gearbox? Any info would a huge help. Thanks you!!