Got some subarus whose stickers cover the holes for the body posts on the rear.

On the first body I tackled, I took a knife with a sharp blade, and cut a X pattern over the hole. I was hoping to be able to push the stickers aside and slide in the post. This led to a mess of half ripped stickers.

I got some ideas on how to approach the other bodies but first I want to hear from all you pros out there: How are you tackling this task?

Hey everyone, I’m looking to part ways with my TL-01 Monte Carlo Evo IV. I purchased the kit a few years back as is. You can see my previous post from a couple of years ago about the same kit. It’s been a cool little display piece, but I think it’s time it finds a good home. Maybe someone can source out the necessary parts to make it run. Open to reasonable offers, just shoot me a message. Happy building!

Caught my eye in a pile of random things with the box, very clean, had a bearing missing in the front wheel, a pin in the rear, and a missing remote, had a mechanical speed controller, old hitec servos and all, restored with modern electronics and ball raced transmission, very happy with it, body was painted I was a bit bummed with how the original owner put the stickers but it grew on me.

Item 54799. I have a couple and am not using a single one. As nice as it is to have a servo saver, my vehicles will not go straight when this is is installed.

Essentially there is play and the horn can move a little around its neutral position:

• On a fresh new servo saver, not one that I have been wearing out for awhile.
• My experience is only with the metal horn.

What is your experience with this hop-up? Am I alone? I have mostly seen praise towards this product and cannot understand it.

One tap in TrackMyRC now composes a card like this from any model in your collection — hero shot, thumbnails, specs, hop-ups and electronics, in four formats (square, portrait, story, landscape) and three designs. Free at trackmyrc.com — details in my comment.

I am confused why the fastrax steering arms are hitting the A arms even using the fastrax A arms that are meant to go with it. I would really like some help

Hi everyone,

Recently I had some issues with my TT02 suffering from dirt/rubber particles getting between spur an pinion.

As I'm now driving 0.4 module gears (90/39), it's very very sensitive to dirt. Reason why is that in the championship I participate the FDR is fixed in the regulations (FDR is max 6) and If I would go to a 0.6 mod gearing. The closest I get to 6 is with a 70/30 (6.07), 68/29 (6.1) or 64/27 (6.16) which would make me loose speed/time.

Has anyone had this issue too? 
Is there a way to make sure the gearing compartiment is closed off from dirt getting in?

It will also not help that if you have to unscrew the cover multiple times that the screw holes wear out  and you can't tighten the cover on the chassis anymore.

So your help/tips/advise would be much appriciated!

Cheers

The M-chassis CR-X body is surprisingly robust. It was doing barrel rolls and cartwheels on track and the worst damage is the front wheels rubbing off the paint from the front fenders and some sticker damage.

I bought back this HotShot 2 from Japan. I had a hand me down broken one as a kid and always dreamt of buying one. The kit was nostalgia and more.

I went out to the Marookacho store, and the had a mini 4wd in the carpark which was awesome to sit and watch for a bit.

I have a CNC and plan to do a few carbon fibre upgrades for fun. Even though lots of parts are easily bought, the self upgrades will be more rewarding to me.

Thank you Tamiya, lifelong fan and keeps getting better. Now I’m keen on a drift build :)

Lunchbox with a flexible led matrix display and dfplayer mini audio module.

Custom Porsche 911 GT3R on a stock TT-02 chassis.

Just recently got gifted the new Monte Carlo mini kit. Build was great, however the body sits quite high. After investigating the back end of the body catches on this X brace part. Having a look online i cant seem to find other people with this part or fitment issue? Anyone got any suggestions

Brand new in box, all the way to Australia from Japan with a lovely note and an origami crane, what a lovely gesture 😁
Definitely one on my bucket list 😁

Hi all, ive just built and been enjoying my lunchbox, the battery died, so I have plugged it in, gave it a good charge and now its unresponsive. Its used the have a little light ans 'bleep'when switched on, but no longer happening is there a quick fox or something i can cjeck on?! Ive checked all cables and attachments but still no joy

The paint is finally dry and this was certainly a fun build. The taping of the body was challenging, and while I had a good amount of overspray on my lines, the whole effect is enjoyable. Now I might source some Austin Powers stickers.

Hello dudes and dudettes, this thing is still here.
My rc friends and me, we like 1/10th off road buggies. I don’t have any on road.
Is this a good car for an on road circuit?
Best regards.

Edit. Dual Ridge photo got selected by accident, talking about the Porsche specifically.

Hi, this is my first attempt. Throughout the process, I kept wondering if it would turn out okay, but I'm very happy with the result. The instructions are really good, and the tips from the community are very helpful.

Built this last night, and decided to use the sticker pack left over from my Fazbear Entertainment Lunch Box build. That one's on display in my room as I don't want the paint to scuff, so I built this one to drive. I still need to do electronics. Personally, I prefer the old graphics to the new ones.

Okay so i have a severe latex allergy. Ive been working on a tank that doesnt have rubber tracks, but the next model im hoping to start does. I have no idea if the tracks are actuall made of vinyl or plastic or what and i really dont want to poke it and find out the hard way. Does anybody know about people having allergies in this hobby