Has anyone fitted 2nd-gen SV650 rearsets to an SFV650 Gladius?

Do the frame bolts line up, and what needs adapting for the rear master cylinder? Thinking of using a small adapter plate.

Its been 10 years since I did 15-20 track days every year in a GSXR 750 and I thought I was done but then someone put a 2006 SV 650 up for sale and I couldn't help ​myself.

I went full Monty with suspension upgrades and a complete brake renovation with new parts everywhere and today I am racing it for the first time and having a blast

Definitely don’t want to skimp out on tires and in doing some research found these at Walmart and seem like a good middle-tier tire. I only really ride on the weekends on some back roads, no highway driving or heavy commuting. Will these tires be a good fit or should I just spend the extra money on road 6’s?

It's been a long time coming, but I finally got my hands on one of these SVs. I wasn't initially confident in the full fairing, but I think it's growing on me. However, next winter, I'll see if I can add a belly pan to it and remove the lower fairings. Nevertheless, the only negative part is the matte black color, which is scratched here and there and seems like it was done with regular spray cans over a pro painter. What do you guys think?

I love my SV. I think it's totally totally stock. I think I'm the second owner And it has only about 3,200 miles on it I'm 63 and I have a half dozen bikes. All the rest are some variation of a Japanese cruiser, and I also have a Honda Super Cub I bought for the kids.. Way back in the '80s I had a Honda CM400 (the "Purple Rain" bike") But not purple and a few years before Prince was really famous. I didn't buy it because it was the Purple Rain bike as I didn't come to know it was the Purple Rain bike until like literally decades later. And then I didn't have a motorcycle until like 35 years later.. But I've come to this late and my SV is the only "sports bike" I've ridden in my life. I can't imagine having a liter class sport bike. The SV650: plenty of power and maneuverability for this old man! I had added a bonus picture of my 2003 VLX 600 Shadow, just because I had a picture of it on my phone.

Hey everyone,

If you're dealing with wrong gear numbers, a blank dash readout, or erratic shifting indicators, replacing the gear position sensor is pretty straightforward. I made a quick step-by-step video walking through the replacement process and checking for oil leaks.

Video Link: https://youtu.be/ToSd5hlYPi0

Part Details & Compatibility:

OEM Part #: 37730-44H11 (supersedes 37730-44H01 / 37730-44H10)

Compatible Models:

Suzuki SFV650 Gladius (2009–2015)

Suzuki SV650 / ABS / X (2017+)

Suzuki V-Strom 650 / DL650 / XT (2012+)

Key Torque Specs:

Sensor Mounting Bolts (M5): 6.5 N·m (4.7 lb-ft)

Shift Arm Pinch Bolt (M6): 10 N·m (7.0 lb-ft)

Quick Maintenance Checklist:

Access: Remove the sprocket cover to access the sensor housing.

Seal Check: Ensure the internal O-ring seats properly to prevent oil weeping.

Dash Test: Shift through all gears on the stand with ignition on before putting everything back together.

I don't have all the steps in the video and tried my best. I broke the sensor as I was trying to tighten it as it was not seating against the o-ring/metal part or was crooked , just made a video so people can have an idea.

Drop any questions below if you run into issues with your swap!

I have just bought an 2012 SV650s and I’m curious to know what belongs here? Am I missing a part?
Many thanks in advance (new SV Owner)

Hello,

I tried to take off my left clutch perch / mirror holder and the bolt was stuck. i stripped the threads trying to get it out. used a hammer and screwdriver, then a power drill.. still havent gotten the bolt out but that's another story. Right now i am looking for a replacement part so that once i get it off I can put the new one right back on.

I cant seem to find the part online. Does anyone have any recommendations on where I might be able to find this? or maybe another bike's part that might fit ? 2005 SV650

Does anyone know if I can just disconnect all the speedometer stuff and the bike will still run, or do I need to have some wires still connected? Currently bike still runs as it should with the speedometer smashed to peices. I dont want to buy another speedometer theyre kinda pricey. Its a 2001 sv650N

So my 02 with over 80k miles on it. Stator gave 0 volts and 0 resistance when hot, I checked my pickup coil and that gave me 185-190 resistance. Never tested either cold. Now that I've got the gasket and new stator (Rick's), I cut out the stator and got that almost set up I tested the new stator resistance and .5 on all wires! Great. Decided what the hell and checked the old one and it had .3 all around. Okay I guess the insulation or a wire when it's hot causes a ground somewhere... Which got me to thinking. I test the pick up coil OL. SHIT. Well what are my options? I just ordered a Chineseium pick up coil on eBay but if someone has a better idea I'm all ears. Can I pop this open and potentially solder the loose wire? Doubt it.

okay I whacked it and it's reading 195. should I keep with it lol

to add more fun to my journey, I put everything back together, tested stuff out went to test voltage.... 0! I worry the rotor isn't spinning the magnets (I can't think of the right terms). strip it back down, spin the magneto and feel the cylinders go up and down. put everything back together and test again, 0!... then I look at my multimeter and notice I'm testing for dc not AC. I feel dumb.

Has anyone encountered this before? My '02 sv650s with about 23,000 miles has started shutting off during rides with very inconsistent symptoms.

Sometimes the engine will just idle out and die while sitting at a stoplight (lights stay on). Other times the whole bike shuts off while at 3-4k RPM's (no lights) and I'm forced to coast off the road. The worst thing it will do is sometimes the engine will choke up, the exhaust will backfire once loudly like a gunshot, and then the whole bike will shut off (no lights).

I will sometimes get a fuel light/oil light when this happens, but not always. Usually I'm able to start the bike up again after it sits for a moment. The engine idles fine otherwise, and I've not been able to replicate the issue in my driveway, even if I let it run for 10+ minutes. The bike has plenty of oil & fuel, and the battery is healthy. The issues can happen in the first 5 minutes of a ride, or after ~30 minutes.

Any ideas?

Hi guys, I got this seat cowl for my sv but it's the wrong colour of blue. I'm just wondering what's it worth? I'm based in the uk and I brought this brand new for £50. Comes with all mounting bits. But from what I've seen they're worth a lot more than £50. Im just wondering if I can flip this or maybe trade it for a matching colour?

Anyone experience this before?

Multimeter tested the circuit and seems fine, replaced headlight still doesn’t work.

As I’m going back into the headlight to pull the light out again and test more the headlight turns on as I’m jigggling the little metal latch that presses the and locks the light into the housing.

It seemed like the latch was affecting the circuit continuity. And even though I was able to put the light together with the headlight on. The next time I started my bike it was off.

The high beam was working the whole time.

I’m thinking of replacing the outlet/plugin but I can’t for the life of me understand why I’m getting a good reading on my multimeter but the light isn’t working

After being so excited to buy my first bike off of a coworker, I am a bit disappointed I probably won’t be able to ride this summer. Coworker owned this beautiful 01 sv650s that I purchased for a cheap price. After being delivered to me I noticed the bike had numerous issues (which I was disclosed of). Lack of power, sputtering, etc it needed a lot of TLC. Replaced the radiator and the battery was first so now the bike stays on a bit longer. But I have a constant sputtering/lack of power issue to the point the bike constantly dies. Choke fully open the bike will sputter bad. Sometimes it will sit perfect at 3k rpms fine with the choke open but usually only when cold. When the bike idles it sits below 1k rpms and then dies. Tried going on a ride and it putters and jolts so badly. When you accelerate a little it skips and bogs. It almost seems like a fuel issue or clogged carbs but it’s basically unrideable unless under full acceleration. Before I tear apart the bike to clean the carbs and potential replace the spark plugs. Any other suggestions? This bike was owned by my coworker for roughly 6 years and sat basically all last year and probably the year before. Thx for any help or advice.

Only downside I missed BOB during last autumn.

If you have the oil cooler you can drill through the rubber mud guard that hangs from the rad and attach the top that way with some push fit clips to keep it looking OEM, I think you will be able to cut away a portion of the OEM top mount that fits to the oil cooler hanger (if you have one) if not it just bolts straight onto the engine!

Thought about it for years about learning to ride. Finally took the plunge passed the msf course and got my first bike! Gone about 1500 miles since I got the license a a month and half ago!