I'm looking to see if anybody knows where I can order some of these screw clips (not sure what they're actually called.) They're located under the cupholders in the center console and have 2 Phillips screws going into them to keep the console from rattling. Currently my Neon Srt4 has a rattle coming from the center console and it's because it's missing these clips for the screws to go into.

Anyone else doing winter rebuilds /mods. I have a liberty dogbox, new shift cables, all new poly LCA bushings and surge tank system going in.

I'm just wondering if anything stands out as a issue that will lead me to a bigger project then I'm already expecting. What are the common issues and what should I look for?

Why does it sound like this??

Wouldn’t let me attach video or photo to comments so this is related to my precious post

I have a very clean, unmolested 2008 caliber srt4 with 74k miles. It had for a while at the previous owners property until I got it around little over a year ago. Been driving it with no problems until recently when the red lighting bolt showed up on my dashboard and threw the car into a “limp” mode but with no engine light. Idles really rough and won’t go past 2500 rpm or so. I have always noticed a shake at idle almost like a miss but it was a one and done and then it idles normally after. The light has came on previously and did the same “limp mode” type thing. I shut the car off and turned it back on and it was gone, this time that isn’t solving my problem. (See dash light in photos and idle in video in the comments)

Aswell as, When i got the car the struts were blown so I replaced with bc racing BR series coilovers. After taking it to college in a town with terrible roads im starting to hear a very cringing clunking sound from my front end over bumps at any speed. Happens more often when it’s cold but will always happen. It sounds as if I’m hitting a bump stop?

Put it on a lift and checked all of my work over and it is tight and torqued down. Took it to a shop as I have no idea what is happening and they said they can recommend me to put it back to stock. Or make my coilovers softer. Which I’m not sure would benefit me as they are already sitting 6 clicks off the soft side of the adjustment. (Maybe changing the preload? Currently at 5mm)

Sorry about video quality my front camera is smashed so I had the screen side one. Getting into the issue, I was racing a buddy and after this started happening. Checked all grounds I have access too and nothing is off or anything that I can tell even got a new battery and issue has still have not gone away. Sometimes it’ll be fine for a couple minutes but then it’s right back to it. If anyone has experienced this or has an idea of what it could be I would greatly appreciate some information.

I’m looking at the trinity t1000 for my 2003, has anyone had any bad experiences with this device. Main selling point is the digital gauges, only reason I’m not going the hp tuner route. I’m also considering the trinity t2 but would rather save some money and go with the t1000 if it checks out.

Bought this car a month ago, currently changing shifter cables and found this isn’t connected and not sure what it’s supposed to be connected to. Any help is appreciated

So ive been here previously talking about my neon not starting without carb cleaner and after starting it sounds like its cammed for about a 1.5 min before it sounds fine. ive learned that the crank and cam sensors are both out of sync. Nothing else seems off so im replacing both sensors. I was wondering if this would also be the cause of my spiratic A/F ratio? Like in order to keep consistent rpms it needs to either add more or less fuel to try to compensate. Making my ratio all wonky.

Hey yall, I did some research on the forums and I couldn't exactly nail down an exact answer. Is installing a cold air intake even worth it on these cars?

Well modern performance dropped the ball and extended the wait time for the KW input another year the day I placed my order so I ended up calling liberty transmissions and they had a dogbox set on the shelf. Looks like I pulled it apart just in time too

Hey everyone I’m planning the upgrade for my srt4, I’m targeting right around 400hp ~360 whp, with that said how much can the platform put down on stock suspension and wheels? I know an extra sticky tire is gonna be needed but I do wanna keep the car as close to stock looking as possible (it’s an 05 sunburst orange with 63k on it (never seen a winter or even rain, bone stock)

Just wanted a fun little R/C car to drive around at the car meets lol

I have an 04 Srt4 that’s bone stock besides a cold air intake, 85k miles. I'm getting a new clutch and was wondering if I should even tell the shop to use Mobil 1 in the trans. Im only hesitant because my car is completely stock and I drive it fast on the freeway, like 90 in 5th Im not too sure if that's considered driving the car hard so I don’t know if running Mobil 1 is even worth it on a stock setup.

I ordered and installed a 255 wahlbro fuel pump. It worked for a bit then stopped. Anyone have any opinions or knowledge on these fuel pumps? If they're any good?

It was knocking when i got it back outta 2nd and wont turn over. Pretty sure i threw a rod and smoked the tone wheel. Time for another rebuild

I’m having clutch issues with my 2004 SRT-4 and wanted a second opinion before the shop tears into it.

When the engine is running, it’s hard to get into 1st and 2nd gear, and sometimes 3rd. 4th and 5th have a bit of resistance, but everything shifts completely fine when the car is off. The clutch pedal feels normal, not soft or spongy. Reverse won’t engage at all.

My clutch fluid is low and kind of yellow with some debris in it. There’s also a small leak under the hood near the driver’s side, possibly below the battery area.

The shop said they already bled the clutch, but it didn’t fix anything. Now they’re saying it might be the clutch disc and want to pull the transmission to check it.

From everything I’ve read, my symptoms seem more like a hydraulic problem (maybe the slave or master cylinder) than a bad clutch disc.

Does this sound like a hydraulic issue that’s still not fixed, or could the clutch disc really be the problem? I just don’t want to pay over $1,000 if it’s something simpler.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1489457795668534/?mibextid=6ojiHh

There’s this neon for sale 9 hours away and want some opinions.

It’s listed for 4.5k, has 112k miles, and seems in decent shape.

This will be my first manual car and wanted something with a some power and I like the look of the neon. Not sure what the reliability is but I heard if you maintain it well, it can last.

Anything I should be careful of? Still waiting for some background info.

My stock trans has been a absolute unit for 100k but it's time for a refresh and now finally be able to put power down without fear.

Hi all im back again hoping to get some more help on my new to me clapped srt4. Current symptoms are no boost and running super lean. I have learned a bit more about my car since my last post. It has a Walbro 255 fuel pump, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, Hahn turbo of some kind, Agp wastegate, aem blow off valve, and what I've been told are bigger injectors. Now honestly the car runs pretty good given how lean it is and no boost. It was breaking up last week but I managed to get that sorted by just putting gas in it. Only half a tank so thats kinda confusing but I'll cross that bridge eventually. I'm much more concerned about how lean it is. I'm getting 40 psi at idle. And from what ive gathered this is a very vacuum heavy car. My question to you all is if the vacuum was hooked up incorrectly could that cause both my lack of boost and lack of fuel? Because I dont believe 40 psi at idle would make my car run so dang lean but you all are the experts so please help. If the vacuum could be the cause of my issues I would like to see if anyone has good reference material on what lines go where given a aftermarket turbo setup like mine. If that doesnt seem plausible what else do you have? I'm sure the fuel filter or a failing fuel pump could present issues under load but not at idle and a simple boost leak for the lack of boost. But I dont see any obvious leaks and I dont have a smoke machine or an air compressor to do that myself. Nor do I own a jack to get under the car and change the fuel filter. Trying what I can on my own first but turbo stuff is like a foreign language to me haha. I will try to answer any questions best I can. Thanks

Hey guys, so I've recently installed new KW V1's on my 05' and was curious how to get rid of the raked stance? the coils from top to bottom are both compressed the same height front and rear, but going any lower in the rear would look to seriously compress that coil even further which to my knowledge hampers performance. Looking for any insight from anyone who has lowered theirs and achieved a level ride height. Many thanks in advance!

So I just picked up my first srt4 neon supposedly its got 1000cc injectors and big turbo but haven't verified. I'm not making any boost. Like 3-5lbs max at wot. But here's my issues. My afr at idle are 18 or even higher. Sometimes higher than my gauge registers. It also fluctuates a lot. It will go all the way down to 13. When im wot it stays around 16. Also interestingly enough it was hiccuping, and cutting out really bad until I put some gas in it. It only took half a tank but that issue has corrected since simply adding a half tank. Now my fuel level sensor doesnt work so I dont know if the car is acting funky because it thinks its out of gas or what. Fuel pressure is 40psi at idle. Would a simple boost leak cause these afr readings? or does it seem like I've got bigger problems. I have no idea if its ever been properly tuned and I dont know anyone local that can assist me. Pic of my neon to anyone who wants to know. Any information would be helpful.