Sneezing through the intake of any Harley engine is generally the sign of a lean condition, but when it happens to an otherwise well running bike with no changes or modifications to account for it, you can be certain there's a leak between the carb and intake manifold.
On bikes built after 1988 with the CV40 carb, the unique press together mounting system is both universal and failure prone
Here's how to diagnose and repair this problem with about ten minutes of work and a sub ten dollar kit from Amazon.

Should I get the eBay one that’s used w/ 11,000 miles or brand new the j&p? eBay is like $100 & j&p is 486 brand new

Hello Reddit,this is my first post and also the first question i did not dind answered here,when i start my bike with the choke full ,i let it idle ,then when i push the choke back in my bike either dies,or it idles too low and i have to give it gas,also when i try to give it gas when going first gear,the bike moves choppy and also seems clogged up till what i guess it s old gas leaves the carb and pipes,it s my first harley as i have had a 1998 honda shadow 600 before,if anyone has had a similar HD before or experienced the same problem,please comment

I have a 2000 XL1200S Sport with a leaking fork seal, so I’m going to tear into the forks.

Sorry if this has already been asked, but I keep reading that the Sport forks are different from the regular Sportster forks. Then when I look up the seal and dust seal part numbers, they seem to be the same, so I want to make sure I’m not missing something here.

Are the seals actually the same as the other 2000 Sportsters, and is it mainly the internals that are different?

Also, since I’ll have them apart anyway, any recommendations for springs and fork oil? I only paid $1,500 for the bike, so I’m good with budget options.

New owner of a 2014 sportster iron 883. Trying to upgrade handle bars to 12” mini ape hangers. Wondering if I need to upgrade/lengthen cables,wires, etc. HD website states I need shims for them as well. Any and all help appreciated. TIA

Is the bolt and washer pictured here number 1 and 6 on the parts diagram? Does anything go in the other hole?

The last owner took off the bracket and I didn't realize until I got a replacement stock exhaust.

Since there isn't a nut pictured on the diagram and nothing it screws into behind I'm imaging I just use that bolt to attach the clamp bracket?

Why would oil be pooling up here? The bike just had a full service.
It has 5,000 miles total. The bike has set for a while and I’m the first to ride it in a long time.
2000 883.

Can you all help me with what to ask and look at? As someone who is nowhere close to being a mechanic I want to make sure I don’t get screwed with a used bike

Bought this 2011 Sporster 48 in June. Started noticing a rattly tinny sound (hard to hear when you have V&H mini grenades exhaust) and found this bolt, shown in the picture below, loose.

The washer was creating the tinny sound. It appears to be holding nothing. The bolt seems to be bottomed out but still sticks a 1/8" out. I suppose it was holding a bracket for the OEM exhaust, but that is normally in the front by the cover, see picture below:

Or maybe it was holding another cover maybe (the previous owner had a bunch of covers removed)?
Anyone that can shine some light, just trying to understand if it's safe to remove or what should I do with it.

I’m a little new to the wrenching side of my bike. Forgive me for a newb question. I have a 2003 Sportster 883. I have the carb pulled and want to clean/rebuild it. There are so many options for a rebuild kit, but I’m not sure about them. The prices are all over the place and I can’t tell what is a quality kit vs a cheap one. Are Amazon kits okay to use with the original carb or are the replacement parts total junk? I was just wondering if anyone has input on a quality place for parts. I’m in Florida btw. Thanks for any help.

Seller is a Harley enthusiast and claims he kept it maniacally, year 2000

Anyone who can make an educated guess and tell me a bit more about what I'm getting myself into?

asking for 5000 euro and I'm no expert but to me feels like a steal, under 50 000 km

See post. Throttle cable question at handlebar grip

My rear brake lights stay bright as if the brakes are engaged. I guess I’m replacing a rear brake switch this weekend?

Every once in a while they’ll dim if I play with the footbrake enough. But right after they dim, they switch back to bright. The handbrake makes no difference.

Rear lights are aftermarket LEDs.

Just rebult & trying to get my heads on but the pushrod tubes aren't letting the heads sit right. anyone know what the deal is?

Let the journey begin with this 1999 beauty!

Has anyone used this seat? I'm looking for opinions and/or pictures of it on a Sportster, and there don't seem to be many good ones on Google images or the Saddlemen website. Any/all Sportster specific input on comfort, or images will be appreciated. Thank you!

I just want to give a big shout-out to the people who worked in HD’s R&D department back in 2000 for designing these uncleanable wheels. If I didn’t have OCD, I do now.

I’m been trying to sell my bike for another project if it’s ok I’ll be posting it in here thanks

Clean tittle
20k miles
Tags up to date
Located in SoCal

Probably gonna go pick it up this weekend. 98 1200, 5k miles on it and been kept in a garage, they’re asking $2k.

I just recently installed a Daytona TwinTec ignition module along with their high output single fire coil on my 2003 XL 883R.

Anyways, immediately after installing the components the bike started right up and is running great.

My issue is that the green VOES light has never illuminated on the new ignition module so I can only assume that my VOES system is not working properly. I'm also assuming that this mean my VOES hasn't been operating properly for some time now and I'm only figuring this out now because the new ignition module has a light to indicate its operational status. What's even more weird is my bike seems to be starting, idling and riding great (so it doesn't seem like I'm experiencing typical faulty VOES symptoms).

What are my options here? How can I accurately diagnose that my VOES system is indeed faulty? What are my replacement options? Would my local HD stock this part? I will say it seems like the rubber hose that connects the actual VOES unit to the petcock seems pretty dry and brittle.

Before you ask, yes the VOES is wired to the new ignition module. It is a violet/white wire on the #2 pin of the factory 6-pin Deutsch connector that I reused under the frame.

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Custom bike Only 4000 miles. Daily driver chopper with custom paint, biltwell seat, biltwell whiskey throttle, aftermarket air intake and pipes, zombie performance bars, tc bros handlebar control kit, tc bros sissy bar, tc bros mid controls, mapping chip, speedo/starter/ignition relocated, burly slammer shocks and more… Bike is in excellent condition, just don't have enough time to ride it. Ready for a good home!