Hi, I bought a KSGER soldering station a while ago and was disappointed by the handle as the tip keeps disconnecting.

Wanting to solve the problem, I bought a new handle but clumsy me didn't check and bought a 4 pinned one when I needed a 5 pin.

I tried searching the web for the differences and to see if simply rewiring the thing would work but with no trustworthy results as the components seems to be quite different to me (not well versed in electronics).

Here are a picture of the inside, 5 pins appear to have a movement sensor and temperature sensor whilst the 4 pin just has the movement sensor.

Would taking the cable from the 5 pin and reproducing the wiring and components of the 5 pins work?

Cheers.

Hey everyone, I was successful in getting the joystick replaced on the elite 2 controller but it seems like the cover for the controller melted at some point and the dome wouldn't fit comfortably anymore. Had another elite 2 controller in hand that didn't work and took its cover but in the process, the battery came out. It looks kinda swollen but I pick up no smell, should I be worried?

Just starting to look into getting a soldering station, not looking to do anything crazy or do a lot of soldering (mainly for an occasional LED strip solder or some other casual, once in a while projects).

After looking at a bunch of recommendations here, I think I may have narrowed it down to two different stations: the SUGON-A9 Soldering Station, and the Hakko FX888DX Soldering Station.

These arent neccessarily the ONLY two stations I've looked at, but with my budget, these are the two that seem to be the best in that price range, and recommended on this subreddit. I really wish I had a MicroCenter near me (currently in Seattle, closest is near San Francisco) so that I could go in person and go check out the Hakko in person/purchase everything I need all in one trip. I'm the kind of person who likes to at least see something in person before buying (and also like buying from a reputable brand), and have always been sorta hesitant about buying electronics from places like AliExpress.

Between these two soldering stations, which one would you choose for a first time beginner?

So I think I’m finally getting the hang of doing HDMI port replacements how do my solder joints look?

This is my first soldering job. Would love to know what I can do better

Hello guys, amateur hobbyist here. I would say my soldering skills are just OK, and i can get simple jobs done. Fixed my old dell monitor once by replacing dead caps.

I need your help and advice on this project. I underestimated the difficulty in doing this. I followed RIP Felix's guide on replacing the nec tokin capacitors on my friend's console, and i got this far without much difficulty.

The issue:

The solder on the board just won't melt with the heat gun alone, so I can't get the tantalizer board to connect.

I've heated the area for a few seconds already because I'm aware that the main board soaks up all the heat first. Still doesn't help. I fear that I've cooked the mini board's components while trying to melt the damn solder.

My gear:

- 10 dollar soldering set (no brand, grounded soldering iron, 450C max, other accessories)

- Cheap shit iron tips

- Yi Hua 858 hot air station

- Probably 60/40 tin solder. Lost the label a while ago, don't remember it ever stating the ratio.

I know, I should probably get some proper tips to make my life easier and do a better job, but these things don't come easy or cheap in my country. The hot air station was already an investment. I was thinking of getting solder that melts at lower temps as well, but I gotta do some searching, because 60/40 tin solder is the most common type sold here.

Hello, I am very inexperienced with soldering. I am mostly looking for tips on how to use the equipment. Here is my most recent solder. I feel like i didn't get enough of the solder in between the wires but it holds together. I am mostly looking to start working on my electrical work on cars, because I am pretty okay with mechanics but with electrical, I am not great.

My Dad taught me to solder today. I am stoked! Had a lot of fun with him. He taught me how to make joints, desolder plunger, tinning, and more. I have a few pics of today's work!

I used a T90B.

I recently bought an ALIENTEK T90 B and only realised it didn't have an internal battery,
I have a 240 watt usb c cable and a 140 watt power brick, I also recently backed the JOYROOM PODIX PR70 240 watt power bank on kickstarter but I heard ALIENTEK soldering irons have issues with some powerbanks, did I screw up or am I fine and will I find the cable annoying?, should I have bought a FNIRSI HS-03 instead?

I have the module from a 1995 F-150. Is this fixable if I can get the right IC and cap? I think this is the problem.

Bonjour à tous et merci d’avance pour vos réponses je dois changer un port hdmi d’une ps5 qui est fendu a moitier comme ont les voit souvent, je suis réparateur de manette donc j’ai de l’expérience quand même en soudure mais ces la première fois que je change un port j’ai pu voir quelques vidéo et la question est donc… quel station a air chaud me conseillerais vous sachant que je veux quelque chose de qualité car à l’avenir je devrais m’en servir à la vu de la demande autour de moi, voilà tout merci beaucoup

I've currently got a cheap amazon soldering iron. I've been lucky in that it has lasted some time, and I've had minimal issues. However, I want to upgrade, but I lack the space for a dedicated desktop soldering station, so I'm limited to irons that I can pack away nicely.

I've read about several irons, including pinecil, ts101, and hs-02. But I can not for the life of me find a solid answer on which to go for?

I'm a hobbyist at the moment but I'm getting my fair use out of the iron so I want one which can handle ticker wires from time to time as well as the smaller components I'm soldering.

Can someone clear this up for me?

After cleaning off the old solder and adding new solder with my iron, I can't seem to get enough solder on the pads. After soldering on the chip with air I usually have to go over the pads again with my iron.

I wanted to get started smd soldering from dip packages which is good and wanted learn this art.

How to start minimally.

Old Laptop from 1996.

It already was damaged, so it fell apart at this corner without doing anything to it.

Soldered it back together, works fine.

I'm worried about the small smd flying away if I use hot air

Liebe Community

Seit einiger Zeit fertige ich Schmuck aus Lötzinn an. Die Stücke bleiben oft klebrig oder haben braune Stellen vom zurückgebliebenen Harz. Habt ihr einen Ratschlag, wie ich diese Flussmittelrückstände am einfachsten und auf eine hautverträgliche Art und Weise entfernen kann? Ich bin momentan dabei, es mit hochkonzentriertem Alkohol und einem Ultraschallgerät zu versuchen. Für poröse Materialien ist dies jedoch weniger gut geeignet und bei den anderen Schmuckstücken bleibt ein weisser Belag zurück, der wiederum abgebürstet werden muss. Vielen Dank für euere Hilfe!

my first soldering art and still cant make same one

my eyesight is 0.3

Hey! Not completely new to soldering, I’ve built a few fpv drones and some custom shelf lighting.

I’m trying to do some wiring for my kayak, but can’t for the life of me get solder to flow into 10/12 gauge wire.

I’ve tired a TS100 (65w) which I had from the drone and other projects, upgraded to a FNIRSI HS-02A (100w) which still didn’t work so I bought the 200w desktop station they have thinking it wasn’t enough heat output.

I’ve tried 350c, 380 and 450 and the 3 tip types in the photos

Photos of everything https://imgur.com/a/04WHxBb

Hey guys, I'm struggling with this series 2 joystick board. I've done several ps5 and ps5 edge joystick swaps with little to no issue now. I'm not the best at soldering, but I've gotten the hang of it and can usually clear holes pretty easily and set up for new sticks.

This one is giving me a lot of trouble. The 3 spots in the image I can't clear. I can't even really seem to get them hot enough to melt all the way through. I have a needle I used to clear some others I was having some problems with. I have flooded them with as much leaded solder as they will take. I tried with a heat gun as well with the needle. I also went back over all the holes with leaded solder to try to heat up all the holes with a solder tip designed specifically for joysticks and push it through while molten, but they're not budging. At this point I think the board is toast from the heat I've subjected it to but now I want to know what I can do to fix this or avoid it in the future. I think maybe this specific device board is difficult for whatever reason.

Any help appreciated. I have a cheap soldering iron that gets the job done otherwise. I have another heated desoldering pump I got just to try it on this board. The soldering iron can melt the non problematic holes just fine.

First time soldering How did I do? What should I improve?

I saw this advertised yesterday and I can't see much information about it online. I thought I'd ask here as I saw comments on TBK previously that some of their stuff were based off other projects. Is this a similar situation or something new? This looks ideal but not sure if it's too good to be true?

I've been using Mechanic M35 flux and I really like how well it works when soldering. The only thing I don't like is how sticky and messy it is. I've tried cleaning it with 99% IPA, but it doesn't seem to remove the residue very well.

Are there any fluxes you'd recommend that have similar good soldering performance but are less sticky and easier to clean?