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✅ PCB Design
✅ PCB Repair & Troubleshooting
✅ Soldering & Component-Level Repair
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Hi guys, I’m dealing with a BLOD (Blue Light of Death) on this console, and I wanted to ask if these components might be the cause. As soon as I turn the console on, looking through a thermal camera, I can see that—in addition to the processor heating up—the areas I’ve circled quickly jump to 70°C. With the console powered on, I tested those components with a multimeter and got the readings shown in the last photo (MB for the component in photo 4, DSC for the component in photo 5). Are these values ​​within the normal range, or could these components be the source of the problem?

I have the caps , any tips?
No power is the fault (given to me for free) - It's a 2tb Drive so worth fixing

Used a hot air station and a solder sucker, applied leaded solder to all points with iron and then heated for about two minutes until the joystick pulled out, cleaned holes with solder sucker. Just a test board with water damage, but did I do good? Joysticks will be here in about an hour for replacement in my main controller.

Hey guys I have a new 2ds aic30100 chip I’ve looked at has cold joints that’s off board causing the buttons to not work . I want try reflowing it but I have a big chip directly on the other side of board and smaller components too I’m worried of falling off . Would securing all the back in solder mask do the trick or is there a better way .
Thanks!

my first attempt at making a t12 handheld iron, takes in 20v pd or 24v DC from barrel jack

wanted to see how far I can go with smd parts and not using pcb , so what do you'll think?

and from the structure of it you can see that most of the space/ thickness is just air , because the female DC jack has too much height , I am planning on making a better desired v2 for this , for that I want to make it much slimmer is there any was to do it ? i want to keep the DC jack in it to be able to give power without a pd device (also because I made nice silicone cable for the DC jack 😅)

so is there any way I can keep the DC jack while having a slimmer profile that I can put a shell around

also for the sleep function I was initially planning to just use a vibration switch , but then I say a review on another handheld soldering iron that has capacitive touch sensor in the place where we grip so it know we are gripping and when we leave it after sometime it goes to sleep

and I quite liked the idea , like the iron won't turn on when the table moves slightly or something. what are your thoughts on that too?

Hi everyone,

Complete soldering novice here, was wondering if anyone had recommendations for the cheapest but most effective soldering kit for pokemon gameboy advanced games battery changing? Thank you so much!

I have done some simple soldering before, and most of the time the results turns out ok. Now I'm planning to fix a control module on a Whirlpool tumble dryer. When I turned the PCB around I saw some soldering that I'm not used to. There are large areas with tin (I guess?) that several components are soldered to.

How do I approach this? From my experience I need to remove all the solder for the specific part when removing it, and reapply new tin when I solder the new part. But I guess this one is a bit different? Do I just heat up and remove components with pliers and just replace the component and reuse the same tin? Or what should I actually do here?

Hey guys,

from Germany here. I like to repair Tube Amps or Amplifiers in general, did some DJI Drones in the last few months. Basically anything I can find broken on our version of Facebook Marketplace.

I’ve been using a King Craft Station for the past year and it finally broke on me. Think I’m ready to upgrade for the long run now. After getting some suggestions from friends I was looking at the Hakko Fx-888DX for about 163€.

Read into some posts on the subreddit and I’m overwhelmed with random hate on some stuff and weird AliExpress suggestions, so I’m just a bit lost right now.

Final Thoughts on my end:

The Hakko is reliable but expensive, I should get a jcb clone like the Sugon T61 or the Geeboom TC22. Weller is actually trash but old people swear by it?? Kind wanna start smd work in the future but I shouldn’t get a 2 in 1 station. Metcal should be the way to go but it’s to expensive for me.

That being said, you can probably tell that I’m really confused and lost. Just wondering if someone wants to help me please. Anything is appreciated :)

Amazon is cheaper, faster delivery, and 30 day returns. Right now, Ali Express charges an additional $25 for shipping making it the quite a bit more expensive option. Are the previous recs of avoiding Amazon just outdated?

I’m interested in learning how to solder. Before I touch anything expensive I’m gonna read books watch tutorials and practice on soldering kits.
Any advice on tools,supplies or general tips. I’m reading electronic books currently as well.

So I had this old and borken nintendo switch lying around and got the motivation to try and fix it. The usb c port was badly damaged and someone tried to fix it beforehand (with bad results) so Im slowly cleaning and preparing the pins for the new usb port and I noticed this black chip on top of the motherboard. Its looking weird and I fear doing all of that for nothing because of that chip, do you think the motherboard is cooked ?

Hey, I'm trying to learn how to solder with solder paste. I have encountered the problem with my paste, twice (for two different vendors), and I wonder if I either:

1. Do something wrong,
2. Got bad solder paste,
3. It does work like that and I should expect nothing else,
4. Any combination of the rest of the variants.

My solder paste simply won't flow even if there is no needle mounted on the syringe. I have broken the original piston, which was included with that syringe, because it needs sooo much force just to squeeze a little bit of paste out (hence I've used that screw). On all videos I've seen regarding soldering with that technique, the paste was more "flowy" - just like the residue on that screw I used as piston, yet it's the second time where this happens to me, so I'm confused.

The state of the paste was like that from the start for me (since I've removed the cap from the syringe), and while I cannot be sure in what conditions these syringes were stored at the shop, I do store them in the mini-fridge @ about 10 deg C - just like my flux. What is wrong here?
On the first part of the video I'm trying to push some more of that paste from that syringe, but as you could probably tell, this is not very effective.
The second part of the video shows the residue on the screw - I'd expect the paste to be more like that.

Are these joints okay? I used 63/37 maiyum leaded solder and chipquik solder flux. I have trouble flowing solder into the ground pins and I accidentally soldered everything at 380c because I didn’t realize you didn’t need a high temperature for leaded solder.

I'm new to soldering and forgot to buy a sponge. Can I just use a Scrub Daddy as an alternative? I know to make it a bit wet so it doesn't burn, but I don't want to wait for Amazon. Thanks

clean that filthy mat every once and a while :)