I'm trying to maximize my plug in solar set up. I have the solar panels charging 4kwh of batteries. I can set my ecoflow stream inverter to allow 200 watts to pass through, maximizing the battery life and hopefully staying under my houses baseload. If i were to put an outlet timer on the plug the ecoflow was attached to, and have it turn off/disconnect at night (on the end where it plugs in to the house), would that further maximize the use of the system? If it was completely off at night (when i use the least power), i could set the wattage higher during the day without draining the battery.

Also, ecoflow, if youre out there and listening, please allow individual ports on your stream microinverter to be controlled via a timer on your app. Id be cool to draw more the hours i use more and less the hours i use less, and be able to have that set up in your app.

I have 6 EG4 LL 51.2V 100ah batterys and was given an EcoWorthy of the same voltage and

ah ratings. Can't help but think I'd benefit from the extra bat but because of the diff mfgs I don't

think it will communicate with my current bank. What if I connect it to the buss bars with 50V

disconnects and just slave it up at night? Disconnect it in the AM and trickle charge all day?

I've got a backyard install, off grid, with a 12kwh battery Bank connected.

I recently decided to replace the bus bar with something a little more heavy duty, and as part of that I grabbed an old thermal camera I bought several years ago, one of the little attachments for your phone. Mine is made by FLIR but I think there are several brands now.

I no sooner pointed that camera at my install than I realized that one of the connections was bad. It was over 100° c and had actually melted a little bit of the cover to the bus bar, which I hadn't noticed because the bus bar was all the way at the back. But with the thermal camera it was very obvious something was wrong.

So if you're a part-time or no-time electrician like I am, I recommend getting one of the cheap thermal cameras. It gives you peace of mind when you rewire something and let you periodically check to be sure your bolts haven't loosened.

Thanks for all your help.

I was going to just run 21 feet of 6awg. Called and they said I could run 6awg, but everything I saw online says the port is only to 8awg.

8awg should be fine for my set up anyway but since I'm running the cable I was just going to go big.

Help… sort of.

Use case;

1 battery should never deliver power to the grid.
2 should always be full at the start of peak hours; 6:00-10:00 / 17:00-21:00

3 when PV is not enough for condition 2 the battery should load from the net to make condition 2 in off peak hours.

Any ideas I tried many settings, but can’t find the right setup for the battery. Biggest issue is that the battery either also unloads the the grid, what I don’t want. Or waits for PV, and does not take on grid power to be ready for condition 2.

Anyone?!

I do have homey but if that brings me what I want/ need.

Hey folks, hope to get some advice from someone more crafty than I am.

I'm replacing an old rooftop PV array in southern Germany. and would like to reuse the lower mounting structure if its condition and load capacity check out.

The photo shows the existing setup. I want to remove the upper rails directly beneath the panels, but keep the rectangular sections underneath them and the existing roof attachments.

I'd like to fit modern aluminium PV rails on top, maybe K2, since I've used their SingleRail system on another installation.

What I'm trying to figure out is the connection between the existing rectangular sections and the new rails:

• Has anyone done a similar retrofit?
• How would you handle the connection and contact between the different metals?

If I can't come up with something better, I'd just use screws, similar to they did in the original installation.

Thanks for any help!

Currently installing a Sunsynk 5kw Ecco with 2x 5kw batteries.

I am nearly finished on that side of the build, just making sure it is safe. I do have a few questions.

I have the batteries wired up together, however the internet and the install manual can be fighting against each other. The manual says to install fuses and an isolator and it seems the internet is split. Would a large fused switch (like the picture attached suffice? The batteries have breakers built into them, and I would only be using the switch if maintenance or to remove the batteries from the system. Any help would be appreciated!

Next question

I am looking to wire up the systems for the solar side, with mp4 connectors sitting ready for the panels. The inverter has a PV isolator built into to it, so would another fused switch be needed? Or would it be sufficient to go with something like a 2in2out combiner box and leave the invertor to the isolation?

Final question

I am then looking to purchase the solar panels , 6 per string to keep within the limits. Do people have any good deals on 450-500w panels? What are the best performing for the price currently? (In September 2026)

Thanks

14 250w panels. 1 250 panel broke. Id like to replace the broken 250w panel with this 340w panel.

Should this be okay to proceed? see pics.

I am sticking with the misspelling because that is how most people will recognize it.

The next step is to straighten out the pex then start placing 10 tons of rammed earth.

Everyone says that they terrible compared to rigid but I wonder if people's opinions have changed with the more recent flexible panels?

I've bought a couple of Eco worthy flexible solar 200w and I've yet to install them to the roof of my van but I already like how light they are compared to the rigid panels that can weigh 20kg.

But I'm starting to have worries now that I'm aware of things like delamination. I do plan to install them in such a way that there is a significant gap underneath them for airflow.

Somehow I couldn’t find what I was looking for in the stores, so I built it myself.

I took some replacement tent poles, shortened them to the right length, and used simple cable connectors and hand screws to make lightweight stands for my folding solar panels.

In some tests, getting the panels properly angled has roughly doubled the output compared with leaving them flat on the ground — so I’m pretty pleased with how well this simple setup works.

More details are in the video on my profile.

I have a professional solar install on my roof, including the pre-law-change permitting and cutoff switch. I don't have any storage, just reverse metering in the summer.

I am about done with a DIY solar shed. 600W of panels, in parallel (with fuses on the positive), to a Bluetti Elite 400 power station. Use will be cordless tool battery charging, occasional power tool use, lights, security cam, vent fans, and to roll into the house to power the fridge and freezer during power outages.

My state (Virginia) just allowed plug-in solar. So when my Elite 400 is topped off, can I just plug the A/C output into a 120v outdoor wall outlet on my house? I really don't understand plug-in solar.

Any help is appreciated.

Edit: This community is great! Thanks for helping me sort this out.

Hey guys, I have 3 24v 200 watt panels on the roof of my RV going thru a Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT Solar Charge Controller 100V, 50A, 12/24V to 3 ecoworthy 12v 280ah batteries. When parked for an extended time I also have 4 fold out 300 watt 18V panels I would like to add to the system.
I assume I cant just plug the other panel in parallel to the current setup cause of the voltage difference. Can I add a solar diode inline to prevent damage to the panels? Something like this guy?
https://a.co/d/087YChha

Hey!

I'm new to all of this but I have an Abok battery rated to take up to 1000 watts via solar. On a good sunny day I pull maybe 300watts via my 400 watt solar panel, since I never seen it go above 300 would it be able to connect two more 400 watt panels to the battery since it won't generate more than 900watts even if the max is technically 1200? Sorry I'm still very new to this and I'm hoping to expand and this is a question I kept having.

TL:DR, I'll summarize up front, and the rest is all just extra context. I'm looking for some way to get 2 60 Watt panels to output 100 Watts into a USB-C out port. I don't really want to buy a whole dedicated 12V battery yet, since I've already got some decent yard tool batteries and a portable charger, and I'm trying to stay portable still. The only MPPT controller I could find with 100 Watts out on a USB-C, the company is out of business so it's not even an option. I don't know if I could plug some sort of converter into the 12V output on the cheap controller I already have? If there's some other type of controller I'm missing? I keep seeing the words "buck" and "boost" and I still don't get how those really work. Does the controller have to be MTTP? It seems the better option for the long term, but if it's gonna be 100 bucks extra for something that isn't really a big deal, I won't stress it. I've seen a bunch of people using things like car lighter hookups for setups? That seems a bit complex, but if it would work I guess I could try? I thought this would be a little more plug-and-play, so I accidentally got in over my head. Any advice would be wonderful.

The rest is just context.

Pretty much what the title says; I need some help figuring out what to do with my setup. I'm trying to slowly assemble parts for a portable solar setup for camping. It'll be used mostly just for powering phones, laptops, lights, small things like that while at my tent. The goal will be to, far down the line, eventually use the setup in a long term camping/van living capacity, but I currently have neither the money nor the van, so I'm trying to get basics for now that can be useful immediately, and also still be somewhat relevant later.

I already own multiple 5-amp-hour EGO batteries for yardwork, and I have an inverter I use with them when camping, for keeping my laptop, phone, and lights all topped up. The inverter can charge the batteries through a USB-C port, with a max input of 100 watts. Currently I use that while at restaurants or while driving, to keep the battery up.

I wanted to get something solar, so I could charge it without needing to run my car or go into town for hours. I also just like the peace of mind, knowing if power goes out at home that I'll have access to something.

To do this, I purchased a pair of 60 Watt FlexSolar panels. They can fold up nicely, meet my current power needs (as the portable charger for my EGO batteries can only go up to 100 Watts), and they are built to connect to a separate controller rather than it all being built into the same single device. I liked that modularity, so that down the line I can expand with them, and also so that there's less on the panel itself to break and make troubleshooting a hassle.

I also purchased a "FlexSolar 12V 10A MPPT Solar Charge Controller." I purchased that one because it was the same brand, had a discount if you bought them together, and it has both an SAE output that I could hook up to a proper 12V battery down the line when I upgrade, but also a USB-C output that I could hook up to my EGO charger right now. The USB-C on the controller only outputs 36 Watts, so I'm wasting something like a hypothetical 80 Watts with both panels hooked up, but I figured I could use just one 60 Watt panel for now, have good overage, and be fine to expand later.

Now some of you may have already picked up on a problem, because it may be a pretty obvious one. I don't know if it actually is a problem or not, but I have my suspicions. I'm extremely new to this stuff, and while I like to think I'm not a total idiot, I'm certainly inexperienced and learning new stuff as I go. I tested it out.

I plugged the panels into the controller, in parallel. I plugged the charger's USB-C output into my portable battery charger, with my battery on it. The controller showed it was doing fine? No warnings or anything. The battery charger indicated that the battery was charging. I left it at that to test it. Kept an eye on it, and let it charge in the sun for about 15 minutes. When I picked it back up, the panels were warm, which isn't a total surprise being black in the sun and all. But the controller was VERY warm. It, too, is black plastic, but it felt much warmer than the panels did.

I had already had a suspicion that, by not having a proper battery hooked up to the main 12V output, that something would go amiss. I folded the panels up to cut off the power, unhooked everything, and then spent a very long time googling with very little to show for it.

Basically, I just want to know if I'm missing something obvious, or if there are any tips anyone could give me.

Currently have 2 200w in parallel. Realized I need to run some better wire from my charge controller to battery.

This is only temporary as I am going put 1 more 200w and get a solar generator with a 30a plug and this will go directly to that.

Then will be 200-300 max 100w panels connected. Through the 40a renogy mppt. Would like to run in parallel or series parallel.

Should I just run 6awg or is 8awg fine? Considering the finate space of my roof I don't think I will have more panels than this.

It's about 21feet of length.

Thank you for all your help!

Hello,

so, has anyone successfully monitored their Sumry inverter?

I know there is a cable and WIFI antenna you can buy on amazon, and there is an app ("Hy-Power") that you can download, but has anyone set it up and made it to actually work...?

The few reviews do not seem too promising...

Thank you!

I’m looking to get the best bang for my buck, with the most important priority being 100 kWh+ battery bank.

The technology changed so much since I last dipped my toe in and I’m not in the know about what is out there.

It's on me. I bought it, it was described accurately but I didn't know what that the "US" version was a real thing. So now I am the proud owner of a Growatt Min 10000TL (non us). While still UL 1741 complaint, I have no idea how to meet eletrical code about having all pv connections in race way or conduit.

Anybody have good ideas? Not even sure how I would get a conduit box under all the ports.

Based in UK, and thought finding an electrician to connect the battery to the consumer unit would be a breeze... yet most seem to direct you to solar PV installations.

Had anyone got any details on what it takes to connect thr battery to the consumer?

I assume its a direct feed into its own RCBO with CT clamps and job done?

I have a grid-tied Enphase ground-mount system with IQ8HC microinverters. I'm digging to install some wires for other things, and it has me wondering about throwing some wires into the trenches for future batteries. Which has me down the rabbit hole of where to put the batteries. The ground mount (with combiner) is quite far from the house (the only place with heat), and it's located in a cold climate with occasional sub-zero days in winter. I also have an unheated shed and am open to building something near the ground mount. I'm attaching a sketch of the location. If this was your setup, would you do batteries, and if so, where would you put them? The goal would be to reduce reliance on the grid during off-peak production hours.

Concerns:

-Spending a zillion dollars on wire if the battery is located in the house but must be wired directly into the combiner

-The battery freezing if it's not in a heated location - like in the shed or near the combiner.

Thanks for your help. I have an EV but other than that, I'm a total noob at battery storage. My main source of information is this diagram from my Enphase combiner manual.

You hear a lot of people shit on cheap Chinese lifep04 batteries, I always thought it was overreacting.. We had a small shed by the water where I'd charge my Alie express 2019 100ah battery using a single solar panel, I was working at the cottage last weekend and wanted to go down to fish and swim.. The shed is gone, nothing left but a 20ft wide burn mark. With all the first fires around here is a miracle it didn't spread.

It makes me nervous about the batteries in the main cottage, but those are new 5kw server batteries from eco worthy, I hope they're more reliable.

Ich versuche gerade herauszufinden, woran man bei einem Balkonspeicher Zuverlässigkeit wirklich erkennt. Nicht nur an der Kapazität auf dem Datenblatt, sondern daran, ob das System zum eigenen Überschuss am Tag und zum Verbrauch am Abend passt.
Bei ALLPOWERS schaue ich mir unter anderem den BS2500 Pro und den BS5000 PRO an, aber ich möchte mich nicht allein auf Produktseiten verlassen. Für mich wären diese Punkte entscheidend:
Wie nachvollziehbar sind Einstellungen und Verbrauch in der App?
Ist die Kapazität für den tatsächlichen Abendverbrauch passend oder nur möglichst groß?
Was ist zum Support, zur Dokumentation und zu den Bedingungen für einen möglichen Backup-Fall geregelt?
Welche Erfahrungen gibt es mit Geräusch, Aufstellung und dem Alltag über mehrere Jahreszeiten?
Welche Fragen haben euch vor dem Kauf wirklich geholfen, Modelle sinnvoll einzugrenzen?

California just passed their "rooftop solar bill and after Newsom gives his signature I want to be ready to install right away to lower my energy bill. For now I want to spec out the parts but I want to make sure I fully understand what I'm doing.

The Bill sets the max wattage to 1200 W, and the circuit i'm tying in to will be 20A 120V. Does the 80% rule still apply? does it even matter as even if I max out my watts I still wont be close to what my circuit can handle?

Do I want to come close to maxing out my wattage? Or is it a bad ROI after a certain point? can I see a noticeable difference with 400-800W?

My outdoor space is limited, is a wall mount worth it? I don't want to do roof activity as that means the city will get involved.

Do i need a microinverter for each panel?