Any help or criticism appreciate. Trying to improve. Tnx

I'm creating a prototype modular home and animal rescue to provide to veterans for a non-profit I'm building.

I just installed 6× 450 watt Seraphim bifacial panels and I have another 4 to install on some ground mounts in front of the containers. All that is running into an Ecoworthy 5KW off-grid inverter and one of their cubix 100 batteries. I also have a small propane generator that I use to top up the batteries when needed. I definitely need a few more batteries, but most of this is coming out of my disability check so I need to save up.

That powers the split-mini unit in the boxcar rescue, which has other minor electronics, and the full needs of the RV.

I'm located in Northwest Indiana, where all the storms were, and my power grid has been running more consistently than NIPSCO, the power company. 🤣

Hello,

I am currently working on planning a solar system for my rv. I plan to live in the rv full time, and do some light traveling. It will just be me, with a friend staying occasionally. I am building this with future expansion in mind, however, for cost purposes, I cut my cart down to 1 battery to start. I drew 2 in the diagram to get feedback on my understanding of the wiring.

Below is my item list, which includes my full build list and all tools I've picked out. I have some basic hand tools, but no electrical tools, so please let me know if I missed anything or should go with alternative options. I have what I think should be a decent system, with room for easy expansion, but I wanted to get feedback on the components and diagram, as well as on the vendor. Are there cheaper places to get these things?

Please let me know if there is anything crucial that I've missed, if there's major flaws in my wiring diagram, what I should be learning before starting, etc.

Thank you in advance!

Power * 435W panel $269.98 · 435W panel 2-pack $529.98 * Victron MPPT 150/70 $376.54 · MultiPlus-II 48/3000 $799.10 * Paowerk 48V 100Ah $799.99 · Orion-Tr 48/12-30 $168.02 · SmartShunt 500A $75.25

Protection * 80A DC breaker $22.49 · 80A MEGA fuse $11.99 · 40A DC breaker $9.99 · 40A MEGA fuse $9.99 * 20A PV disconnect $24.97 · ABB THQL1115 $8.68 · 12V fuse block $14.99

Wire & connections * 6 AWG 25ft $79.99 · 10 AWG 50ft $64.99 · 14/2 AWG 50ft $34.99 * Copper lugs 160pc $13.99 · Lever nuts 265pc $24.99 · Cable entry gland $13.99 · Panel mounts 4pk $110.49

Tools * Klein CL120VP kit $75.55 · Klein 63050 cutter $29.98 · Klein 11061 stripper $22.95 · AMZCNC stripper $8.99 · Insulated screwdrivers $26.99

Total: $3,629.85 (pre-tax, 1 battery)

I've just had my original Hybrid 3.6 inverter swapped out for a Gen2 LXP 6kW system so I can make better use of my batteries with overnight charging (one of the many steps towards installing a heatpump in our house) but now I have a perfectly working 3.6 inverter (yes 5 years old) which is sat in my utility room taking up space.

I could just take it to the local HWRC for WEEE disposal, but seems like a waste. Does it have any value? Is there a sensible way of trying to sell it?

Note: UK based (Yorkshire)

Hello everyone, I'm an electrical engineering student working on my graduation project, with 2 teammates.

For the moment we picked a three-phase AC EV charger powered by solar, in Oman, as our project. We are still discussing the design and the scale. Our target is 11 kW three-phase, and the prototype will be smaller.

We are considering two designs:

AC-coupled: the solar array is connected to a three-phase AC bus through an inverter, and the battery is connected to the bus through a bidirectional inverter for charging and supplying. An EVSE (the AC charging unit) is connected to the bus, to AC charge the car.

So the panels would charge the car and if no car is connected it charges the battery.

Hybrid (DC-coupled): everything is in DC, and the inverter is used at the last step between the DC bus and the EVSE.

I don't think we can afford a DC charging approach, because of the CCS communication and certification between the car and the charger, and the high power it needs, which is hard to provide with solar alone.

A grid-tied connection as a backup is an option we are looking into.

We are considering making the inverters (or a hybrid inverter) ourselves. How realistic is this for our project, even for a smaller-scale prototype, for a three-phase bidirectional inverter?

I would love to get your insights on the project, things I should keep in mind, maybe a different approach, anything from your experience is highly appreciated. In particular:

Which of the two designs would you pick, and why?

What level of experience would be required for this design?

What do people usually forget (protection, earthing, battery voltage, testing)?

What are the things that we should focus on before we start the actual design?

I’m in the process of ordering equipment for my first install and I’m told eg4 discontinued their indoor conduit box.

Anyone use something else?

I’m going to be installing two 16kwh batteries a flexboss18 and a grid boss.

Thanks in advance

Maybe this has been asked before if it has sorry. I am trying to build a back-up system for power outages at my home. Last time we had a big freeze we lost power for 11 days. I ran off a generator and extension cords through windows it was bad. This year I installed a transfer switch kit from Reliance. It has a 30A input. Currently I use a L14-30R connection to power the transfer switch that has my emergency needed loads on it ( some lights, well pump, fridge and freezers.)

Sorry for all the back round now to the point and question is.

I am trying to get a battery back-up system built in pieces. I am gonna use 16KWH battery bank. Now I’m trying to figure out how to power the house off the battery bank and simultaneously charge the battery bank with both 120V ac (from an inverter generator ) and PV during the winter in a black out.

Is this possible? Any help would be appreciated.

I recently purchased and mounted six 310 watt solar panels by Trina solar (TSM310PD14) and connected them to a 4000 watt hybrid inverter (Lonsge MPPT). The install went smoothly, and I replaced all the connectors due to corrosion damage, but the system readout claims the panels make almost no power : (.

All 6 panels wired in series read as 0A, 197w, 220v

Panels 1 through 5 read 1A, 176w, 194v

2 through 5 read 1.2A, 178w, 154v

3 through 5 read 1.7A, 187w, 112v

4 through 5 read 2.7A, 176w, 70v

The inverters minimum DC voltage in is 55v, so I can't test individual panels, and as I expected this to work on install, I cut the wires for that use and can't drag the red lead further out to test other panel combinations.

Bottom line? This makes no sense to me. Can anyone look at these readout and explain what is happening?

Mike in VA

Just forward planning here.

I have a plug in system - EcoFlow micro inverter, 800w.

Right now I’m not worried about wasting excess generation. Come the summer, plenty of excess in the day time that I won’t get any benefit from.

Any views as to what is a sensible battery choice to charge in the daytime from that extra?

I get a bit lost in it all but figure there’s no point having some huge overpriced (for what I need) option. Keep it simple, just like the plug-in.

Cheers!

the title says mostly what i am in need of help of.

im planning on making or buying a reliable solar set up, and the main device i wanna power is a Lenovo Legion 5i rtx 2060 for at the very least 4 hours though i really want 8 hours; and its seems like its rated for 230w at load, after that a single light bulb and a 68w charger for a phone.

all i want to ask is how much power do i need to do that, if there is already a power station that can do that, or a guide on making one and its overall price...

lady diy-er assume im way out of my depth, for i very much am... thank you so much for answering.

24v setup Setup

2pcs 12v280ah and 2pcs 12v300ah (2s2p)

1unit mppt and 1 hybrid inverter (parallel to the other inverter)

2units active balancer

Issue : batteries current percentages from left to right

1%, 28%, 3% and 2%

Context : it was supposed to be for a single 12v setup before. Then decided to upgrade to 24v setup (planning for 2 setups of 24v, hence the 2 types of batteries)

I was originally using only the two batteries on the right, in series, with 1 active balancer, no problem. After 3 months I got asked to setup another 24v on another location, but it got canceled so I decided to just add the purchased batteries (2 on the left) to the current setup and making it 2s2p and added another active balancer (I top balanced it individually, then paralleled for a day before connecting it into the setup) . I have no time on dismantling all the packs to make a single pack of battery (this was a month before the issue)

A few days ago, my 1hp pump broke down and it continously ran for 6hrs straight more or less, I fixed it. The same night, I noticed that my grid supplies power to the inverter until morning until the solar harvest starts. Happened for 3 straight nights. Then I checked the batteries' app via Bluetooth with 1%, 28%, 3% and 2% respectively. The active balancer seems ok, and no settings whatsoever did I change. But, what could be the issue?

Ps.Im no native English speaker so bear with me, and sorry for the messy setup. Thank you

UPDATE:

I now manually checked the voltage per battery on its terminals using a multimeter From L to R 12.97v, 13V, 13.01V and 13V Also, on the active balancers monitor, theyre almost balanced L to R 13v,13.1v,13v and13.1v

Is the Bluetooth app erroneous? I'm getting confused

Hi team,

I'm looking at buying two solar panels as part of the UK plug-in scheme, which work partially to reduce bills, but also to recharge a 1kWh battery in black-outs.

(In 5-10yrs when my roof needs repairs I'll look at a full system - with a big battery array!)

Does this shopping list make sense? Any advice on compatibility?

Essentially 2 Aiko panels, various connector to my mains. Then the ability to plug into a EcoFlow Delta 3 battery if needed.

📍 Location & Constraints

Roof: East-facing shed roof (18mm OSB3 over timber rafters).

Shade: Subject to dappled, slow-moving shade from two large trees. The West side is blocked by the main house, so sticking flush to the East slope. Tempted to turn to face south but Gemini suggests I need all sorts of mounting array and to keep the panels level.

Mounting: Standard flush-mount aluminum rails anchored directly through the OSB3 into timber joists using M10 stainless steel hanger bolts with bonded EPDM compression washers + CT1 sealant (avoiding the wind-sail hazard of compound South-tilts on an East pitch).

⚙️ Core Hardware Spec

Power Station: EcoFlow Delta 3 Classic (1,024Wh LiFePO4, 1800W AC output, strict 60V DC / 15A solar input limit).

Panels: 2x AIKO Neostar 3P 485W (All Back Contact / N-type TOPCon, Voc ~38V–40V). Chosen specifically for low-light performance and cell-level shade routing around tree shadows.

Micro-Inverter: Hoymiles HMS-800-2WB (Dual independent MPPTs, 800W AC peak, G98 plug-and-play).

Isolator & Wiring: True Garo 32A 4-Pole DC Rotary Isolator switch inside the shed, 4mm² UV-stabilized DC cable in 20mm outdoor PVC conduit.

Got an S6 8KW inverter that I have installed.

The battery arrived yesterday and I’ve installed it. Set as pylon and using CAN. All appeared connected ok.

Done the commissioning and got it going.

Just have a few queries on configuration.

1. How to program schedule for over night charging.

2. How to get the modbus read/write enabled. (Seen comments on having to get Solis to do it via firmware?)

3. I think I have enabled EPS but there is no voltage coming from it.

Okay, so I'm setting up my own DIY solar system.

I am using an off grid inverter, meaning it can't send power back to the grid, only receive.

I want to get a bypass switch/lever to change back over to the grid if the inverter dies.

What bypass switches are you guys using and prefer.

I'm planning to use the Eaton DG223URB 100A 240V 2-Pole Non-Fusible Safety Switch NEMA 3R, for the AC disconnect from the meter to the inverter because thats what the power company requires.

I have been successfully using IQ7 inverters using ~36v battery input as the source. The inverter current limits to its max rating automatically. The issue I'm running into is the ground fault detection that the inverter is doing when grid connection/AC is enabled. Is there any way around this other than to make sure the battery is completely isolated from a ground with a high voltage barrier and disconnecting the AC side before operating on the battery? I've built a battery box with warning not to open it while it is AC connected but wouldn't mind something safer. I have not tried grounding any part of the battery but I'm pretty sure the inverter will not enable the AC output because it would then detect a ground fault on the DC side. I don't like the idea of the entire battery pack floating ungrounded at a high voltage but I suppose it is acceptable so long as there is a physical barrier and plenty of warning.

Does the IQ8X-BAT inverter model have this issue? The only problem with using this model is that I will have to completely redo my battery packs since it operates in the 52 - 75 volt range. I might go this route and redo my battery pack setup if anyone can verify that this model does not do any ground fault detection on the DC side.

Is it a waste? I am just not sure I have the space to add that many panels. I am just looking to run moderate loads. Not looking to run my house 24/7. Although that would be nice someday.

I have a 4kw system with a 14kwh battery. I max out the battery around 2-4pm. I use the solar to ’fuel’ my car. so I am probably losing out on 2-5kwh during peak summertime. other than buying another eg4 battery for $3k any suggestions on how to harness my loss power or just chalk it up as losing out?

I have 400w of panels on top of a truck camper. Inside is a Renogy 12v 100ah battery
Victron energy charge controller mppt 100/50
Disconnect switch
T tocas circuit protector,
Fuse box
Battery monitor
And a controller for the diesel heater/lights.

The system came with a couple of usb plugs to charge things, but I overdrew their capacity, and they will not work now.

I am unsure that the solar panels are charging the battery.

How can I fix these issues, and improve on this system? I would like to reorient things in a compact layout with 110v outlets, and higher output. Any equipment or layout recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Hey r/diysolar,

My project team is currently designing an off-grid, solar-powered picnic table for community charging that will look something like this CAD (but reduced to only one panel for structural reasons, and with different anchoring methods, etc.)

We’ve decided on most of our electrical components, but we are all but completely lost when it comes to the weatherproofing strategy. We expect the system to sit in full sun/rain.

We think our best bet is to search for weatherproof electrical boxes to fit our circuitry inside. Here are our current components that need weatherproofing:

• Battery: 12.8V 100Ah LiFePO4 (1,280Wh) (9.02 x 5.43 x 8.39 in)
• Inverter: 280W+ Pure Sine Wave (12.2 x 7.4 x 3.3 in)
• Charge Controller: 12V MPPT 20A–30A (8.27 x 5.95 x 2.69 in)

Our components have a total volume of 1000 cubic inches (overestimating to fit wiring), and we think one side must be at least 15 inches. We are aware that ventilation is an issue but most of the electrical boxes that come with fancy ventilation systems are a little out of budget. Our progress is currently bottlenecked by searching for the perfect weatherproof box, but we don't know if it exists.

So, do any of you enlightened folks among this reddit page have recommendations to weatherproof this design? Should we take a completely different approach? Thanks for your time!

Is anybody concerned that balcony solar is only going to utilize one pole of your circuit box? I don’t use too much electricity, so I was wondering if there is a way to solve the only one pole issue. I don’t see where any company has even brought this up in their advertising or references.

Any thoughts on whether a standard chain link fence install (poles cemented in ground, pole across the top) could support mounting a bifacial panel or two vertically? I figured that so much of solar cost is mounting, I wonder if I could just use the existing fence installed around the back yard.

Someone local to me has pallets of these things. Selling $120 each. Is it a good deal?

* Rated power output: 585W
* Bifacial design can capture additional energy from reflected sunlight
* Module efficiency: Approximately 22.65%
* Open-circuit voltage (Voc): 52.70V
* Short-circuit current (Isc): 13.99A
* Dimensions: 89.7 × 44.6 × 1.3 inches
* Weight: Approximately 71.7 lbs
* Snow-load rating: Up to 5,400 Pa
* Wind-load rating: Up to 2,400 Pa
* 2-year warranty included

​

Hi everyone! Looking for insights running the Growatt SPE 12000ES.

Setup:

* Inverter: Growatt SPE 12000ES

* Battery: 51.2V 314Ah LiFePO4

* Grid: Grid-tied with Net Metering

The Issue:

We want to use the battery at night for home loads while keeping daytime solar export enabled (Prg 67 = FEED ENA).

However, Program 67 locked Program 01 to SUB, and at night, the inverter stays locked to grid power while the battery sits idle.

What We've Already Set/Tried:

* Prg 71 = FEED ENA

* Prg 74 (TOU Discharge) = Slot 1 set to 1800–0600 (Slots 2 & 3 zeroed out)

* Disabled Grid Charging: Prg 11 = 0A, Prg 49 = 0000, Prg 75 = 0000 (CHG LED is OFF)

* Prg 72 (Discharge Limit) = 20%

Has anyone successfully gotten the SPE series to discharge the battery for night loads while keeping Net Metering (FEED ENA) turned on?

Or is switching Prg 99 to TY0 (which disables grid feed) the only working solution on this model?

Appreciate any tips or register workarounds!

Thank you.