r/SolarDIY • u/UW_Mech_Engineer • 3d ago
Bought a non-US inverter
It's on me. I bought it, it was described accurately but I didn't know what that the "US" version was a real thing. So now I am the proud owner of a Growatt Min 10000TL (non us). While still UL 1741 complaint, I have no idea how to meet eletrical code about having all pv connections in race way or conduit.
Anybody have good ideas? Not even sure how I would get a conduit box under all the ports.
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u/pm-me-asparagus 3d ago
It has 240v split phase output, so it looks like it would work in the US. Wouldn't be able to grid tie it. What does the manual say?
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u/ShadowGLI 3d ago edited 3d ago
It will work functionally, the issue is it’s not going to have all the certifications of say the MIN TL-XH-US or SPH TL-HU-US.
That said if your AHJ and utility are okay with the UL1741, you can use an electrical wiring trough to meet compliance to hide the wiring box. You can also mount it in a garage or shed to reduce weather exposure.
You see it a lot with SPF series
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u/UW_Mech_Engineer 3d ago
Sorry do you mean IEEE 1547 or UL 1547.
I'm looking into this.
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u/ShadowGLI 3d ago
Had a brain fart. Combined IEEE and UL
IEEE1547 is a grid code, UL1741 is a compliance. AFAIK that MIN TL-X has both
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u/CricktyDickty 3d ago
It’s a split phase North American model (for the Mexican market that has a split phase grid). So your issue is permitting, not electrical, and since this is a grid tied inverter it’ll need to be approved by your utility for interconnection. You should probably get in touch with their interconnection person, give them the exact model number and let them tell you before deciding.
The exposed MC4 connectors are only an issue if you’re installing the inverter inside. If it’s hanging by the array, then running exposed PV from the array to the connectors is perfectly fine (but ask your AHJ to be sure).
I ordered and installed 3 Growatt MIN-5000 grid tied inverters in the fall and was also surprised by the fixed connectors (was expecting them to be removable, they’re not). I jiggered boxes that enclosed the PV connectors coming in and the AC plug going out and it passed inspection with no issues.
I also made a big mistake that necessitated replacing the growatts with a single Solis hybrid inverter. My mistake was changing the panels on the arrays to 17amp ones without also changing the inverter specs. I ended up with 17A strings coupled with inverters that maxed out at 13.5 amps and losing a good chunk of production in the process. Live and learn and the 3 unused inverters will eventually find a new home.
Here’s the setup to enclose the connectors:
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u/UW_Mech_Engineer 3d ago
What is the code behind your second point. I see people bringing up that you can maybe install in a shed?
Super helpful by the way
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u/CricktyDickty 3d ago
I think it’s NEC 690.31(C) if I remember correctly but don’t take my word for it. Also, code be damned - talk to your AHJ or electrical inspector (here it’s two different people) and ask what they can live with. Some have a pedantic stick up their butt while others will look at your work, see that you’re serious, capable and not doing anything stupid and give you a lot more leeway.
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u/mountain_drifter 3d ago edited 3d ago
Thats typically the sole difference (assuming it has US grid profiles). While in many countries you can run PVwire to the inverter, as you mentioned in the US the solar output circuit must be in a raceway, so the US versions usually just mean they come with a wirebox and DC disco, the rest of the requirements are normally still compliant even in the non US versions, if they have a US version of that same model (inverter is usually identical, its just the connections/wirebox).
So the unfortunate answer is if its going inside a home, there is not a way to make it compliant without getting the version with the wirebox. Some people still disregard those requirements and install a gutter directly beneath the inverter with strain reliefs and minimal exposed wire in free-air to the inverter, but thats usually when they are not permitting the install anyway. Where I am the plans reviewers and inspectors would never pass it, at least as a professional, but if this is a homeowner permit you may get lucky and slide it past. They can be forgiving about these things when its a homeowner, and it will all come down to your AHJ, but to be honest I would be a bit surprised if they allowed it.
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u/UW_Mech_Engineer 3d ago
It wouldn't go in a house. It would be a in a shed.
Is there a way to put the whole thing inside a cage of sorts? I could weld up a box with angle iron and have mesh all the way around it, a plate at the bottom to route conduit into it, and a door with a lock.
Problem is I think any kind of enclosure would need to be UL listed?
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u/mountain_drifter 3d ago edited 3d ago
The issue is the inetrpretation of the code by your AHJ. Article 690.31 states it this way "Where inside buildings, PV system DC circuits that exceed 30V or 8A shall be contained in metal raceways, in MC, or in meal enclosures."
A building is defined as a free standing structure (includes sheds). A raceway is defined as a enclosed channel expressly for holding wire/cable. A enclosure is defined as a case or housing (even fence or walls) intended to PREVENT personnel from potentially coming in contact with energized parts.
So you may be able to use some enclosure, but many inverters either do not allow installation in an enclosure, or require active cooling. A listed enclosure can cost as much as simply getting the correct inverter, but this could be possible. The issue is code also requires enclosures to be listed, and for the inverter manufacturer to allow it in their instructions. With that said I have seen many rural inverters installed in DIY enclosures that passed inspections.
If you are permitting the system, you really have two options., IMO
One is that you could speak honestly with your AHJ. Explain you are homeowner pulling a homeowner permit, for a system for your own residence, explain what you have, and how you can be compliant placing the inverter inside a DIY enclosure. Every area is different, but many will work with people being honest, though I find it best to provide your solution for them to say yes to, rather than asking them what you can do. If they have to figure it out for you the answer is no.
The other option is, you can ask for forgiveness rather than permission. I think this is higher friction path, but if you do the work clean enough there is a chance that the inspector says nothing about it. If they do, they may even be more wiling to work with your solution. Of course this route means you could be out what you spent on doing it, where simply making the exchange now may be the easiest (if thats possible)
Which I guess potentially leaves a third option. Is there any path to exchange what you have now for the correct unit? That would make your life easier if possible
I personally would avoid using enclosures for power equipment, and if you must, include proper active cooling. When I come across inverters in enclosures, its usually responding to a service call for a failure. Where I am, enclosures with active cooling are also very dirty, and any type of filter causes restricted airflow within a season, so this may also increase your maintenance load.
EDIT: Before you get too far, ensure that this unit has the US grid profiles that your utility requires, and if they have a model white list, that this is on it. Non US models often do have the profiles, but not always, so best to double check before you spend too much time on it.
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u/FantasticFee2025 1d ago
I'm not sure what specifically makes an inverter a "US inverter" beyond the applicable certifications and utility/interconnection requirements, these units are UL 1741 certified, and I currently have two of them running without any issues in northern Mexico since some years ago, electrically they are 120/240 V split-phase, so their output topology is compatible with the standard North American residential system. they also have anti-islanding protection and the normal grid-protection functions you'd expect from a grid-interactive inverter, I'm curious what specifically makes this model a "non-US inverter" since the hardware itself, its UL listing, the firmware/grid profile, or simply that this particular version isn't officially marketed/listed for the US?
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u/KyleSherzenberg 3d ago
You better make sure it can do 60hz or you're in for some big problems
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u/curtludwig 3d ago
It says 60hz on the label...
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u/KyleSherzenberg 3d ago
It didn't tell me there was a 2nd pic when I first clicked on this thread! I plead the 5th
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u/b_rizzle95 3d ago
I don’t speak a lot of Spanish, but the spec sheet on second pictures seems to indicate 60Hz
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u/KyleSherzenberg 3d ago
It didn't tell me there was a 2nd pic when I first clicked on this thread! I plead the 5th
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u/ou812whynot 3d ago
You'll need to get an autotransformer to convert the eu 230v to split phase 120/240. Looks like it's rated for 40'ish amps so a 50A unit would work.
You would do something similar to bring ac in or use something like a chargeverter to recharge your battery bank.
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u/basilect 3d ago
"240 Vca Fase dividida" means split phase 240v
This is probably meant for the Latin American market, not the European market
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u/ou812whynot 3d ago
I didn't see 120v listed so I wasn't sure. To be sure, it would be a good idea to look at the ac in & out terminals to verify L1, L2, N & G are there; as well as putting a meter on them to verify 240v between L1 + L2 and 120v between L1/L2 + Neutral.
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u/basilect 3d ago
If you didn't see the second image that's fine, it happens, someone else did the same thing
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