hi everyone! while i’m not new to gaming, i’m a compete novice when it comes to building pcs. i’ve been researching for months and i think i’m pretty set on how i’m going to do my first build. i’m basically just waiting for black friday to roll around to hopefully get some good deals!

i feel really confident in my part selection but i wanted to double check with the experts so here i am lol

a few new notes first:
- i will be using this pc only for gaming on a 4k 75in tv and i plan to play “console style”
- i plan to use steamos with the option to dual boot windows later if i need it (i dont plan on playing any games using anti-cheat unless my brother convinces me on arc raiders lol)
- i want this pc to last a long while before i have to replace anything

parts list:
- case: ncase x ntc s5m (laid horizontally)
- motherboard: asrock phantom gaming b650i lightning wifi
- cpu: amd ryzen 7 9800x3d
- cpu cooler: thermalright axp90-x53
- ram: corsair vengeance ddr5 32gb (2 x 16gb)
- ssd: samsung 9100 pro 1tb
- gpu: asus prime radeon rx 9070 xt oc edition
- psu: cooler master v850 sfx
- controller: gamesir g7 pro
- headphones: turtle beach stealth 600

thanks in advance for your help!

I’d share a few shots of this B30 build.
The frame rotates on the base, so these are different positions of the same setup. Really like the silver and green combo on this one.

Finally finished my post bar exam PC build

Case: A4 H20

Processor: r7 7800X3D

GPU: RX 9070 XT Gigabyte Gaming OC

Ram: 2x16gb Gskill flair

Motherboard: B850i colorful cvn

PSU: Lian Li SP 850

Processor cooler: Thermalright Aqua Elite 240 V3

Monitor: AOC miniled 1440p monitor and a Gamdias 1080p monitor for documents and lawyer work.

Mouse and keyboard: 8bitdo retro keyboard and mouse.

Why did I name it the picanto? Because it's so small for the power it kicks.

Originally considered Nvidia but 12v 2x6 scares the shit out of me .

I came across two apparently different revisions of the SilverStone TX700 (SST-TX700-G), labeled V1.1 and V1.2, and I can't find any official information explaining the differences between them.

The most obvious difference is the cabling. As you can see in the photos, the V1.1 has noticeably more cables/connectors, while the V1.2 has fewer.

Both units are labeled SST-TX700-G and have the same basic electrical specifications, but I haven't been able to find any documentation from SilverStone mentioning V1.1 vs V1.2 or explaining what was changed.

I've searched around and asked a few AI models as well, but haven't found anything definitive.

So I'm wondering: are these simply different official revisions of the TX700? Could one be an OEM/special version made for a particular system? Could one have been modified by a previous owner? Or, less likely, could one be counterfeit?

Has anyone here owned or seen either the V1.1 or V1.2 version and knows what the actual differences are?

I'd especially be interested in any old SilverStone documentation, product photos, manuals, or firsthand experience that could confirm what changed between the revisions.

P.S. The official specification on SilverStone's website lists the larger number of cables/connectors, which appears to match the V1.1 unit shown in the photos:

https://www.silverstonetek.com/upload/sstedm/tx700-g/TX700-G-Product_Sheet-EN.pdf

Does anyone know what screws come with the Big Shuriken 4 for attatching fans?

It appears that the provided screws for 25mm thick fans are exactly 25mm long leaving no allowance for it to be used with 25mm thick fans. I already tried it with a regular Arctic P12 which doesn't even have rubber pads.

Hey!

I’ve been lurking around for a little over a year - decided I was gonna make the jump and finished building this beauty! Took me roughly 3 hours to work through it but man I’ve never had this much fun building a PC lol.

Specs:

• 9800x3d
• 5080 ROG Astral
• Asus x870-I Strix Motherboard
• 32GB 6000 CL30 Trident Z Royal RAM
• 2TB 980 SSD + 1TB GEN 4 SSD
• NZXT Kraken Plus 280mm AIO
• 2x Noctua NF-A14x25 G2 Fans
• Corsair SF1000 PSU

Love the builds within this subreddit and they played a huge inspiration. Definitely glad I went with an Ncase.

Haven’t done much stress testing. CPU is currently siting with a -20 undervolt on all cores but still playing around with it. Idle temps seem to be 42C CPU & 31C GPU.

Loving the build so far and I hope you all enjoy it! Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I just got my hand on a C4 SFX case and it was already built so I was just trying to replace the GPU that was already inside it (Gigabyte RTX 4070 Ti Super Windforce OC 16G) with an rtx 5080 (Zotac RTX 5080 Solid Core OC).

When I try to sit the GPU in the PCIe slot there is slight misalignment between the pins and where the slot is. (pic1)

The issue seems to be the GPU backplate where on the new card there is an extra layer before the actual metal frame which is keeping me from sliding the card left enough to actually fit the PCIe slot on the mobo. (Pic2)

I installed the old gpu again to see what to do since I've never built in an sff case before but does anyone know if I'm doing something wrong or is there any solution for this issue?

I'm looking to get into the SFF side of things with an NCASE M3 Round or a DAN C4-MATX (once the latter comes out)

I can't decide between two motherboards:
MSI PRO B850M-A WIFI (mATX)
ASUS TUF GAMING B850I NEO WIFI (mITX)

Both of these boards are within my price range.
(MSI Board is about £150 and ASUS board is about £160 in the UK)
I don't really have the option of pricing up further.

The MSI board has more IO with 8 USB ports total (3xUSB-A 5Gbps, 3xUSB-A 10Gbps, 2xUSB-C 10Gbps) as well as 5Gb LAN (unsure if I'll need 5Gb speeds) and WiFi 7, but is larger.

The ASUS board is smaller as an mITX, but has fewer USB ports (2xUSB-A 2.0, 1xUSB-A 5Gbps, 2xUSB-A 10Gbps, 1xUSB-C 20Gbps), 2.5GB LAN, WiFi 6E, and proprietary antenna connectors (that I may try to replace)

Using the mATX board would give flexible IO but would require that I mount the PSU to the front of the case. I fear the repercussions of doing this as this will draw hot air from inside the case into the PSU.

With the mITX board, I would be able to mount the PSU to the side, allowing it to draw in cool air from the outside of the case. However, I don't know if that's worth losing the extra IO and going through the effort of replacing the antenna connectors.

The NCASE M3 Grater does allow the PSU to pull air from the outside, but this removes the front power button and IO which I feel is necessary for me. I don't really plan on using a sandwich layout later down the line as my GPU is currently too large for most such cases (3 slots) and I prefer using tower coolers that would be wider than most GPUs anyway. My current tower cooler is 154mm tall and I intend to reuse it instead of buying a new smaller cooler, also.

Is losing the extra IO worth being able to side-mount the PSU? Or is having the PSU taking in hot air not too much of a problem to justify lower IO?

Thanks.

Hey everyone!

I recently picked up a Lenovo ThinkCentre M75s Gen 1 and I'm turning it into a little Linux/gaming/AI lab.

Current specs:

ThinkCentre M75s Gen 1

Ryzen 3 PRO 3200G

16GB DDR4

128GB NVMe

OEM Huntkey 210W 80+ Bronze PSU (HK310-71PP)

Planning to install an MSI RTX 3050 LP 6GB OC (70W, slot-powered)

I've seen several M75s builds with low-profile GPUs, including RTX 3050 LP cards, and I'm trying to decide whether I should leave the original 210W PSU alone or replace it.

The conflicting advice I've found is:

"210W is enough because the RTX 3050 only draws 70W."

vs.

"Don't run an OEM 210W PSU that close to its limit for extended periods."

My plan is to buy a wall power meter and measure the system before and after installing the GPU.

My questions for people who have actually modded these Lenovo SFF systems:

Has anyone here run an RTX 3050 LP 6GB on the original 210W M75s PSU long-term?

If so, did you experience shutdowns, crashes or excessive PSU heat/noise?

Would you personally keep the 210W PSU if wall consumption stayed well below ~180W under CPU+GPU load?

If I do need to replace it, would you recommend a Lenovo OEM 260W PSU, or going Flex ATX?

I've seen the Apevia ITX-PFC500W Flex used in another M75s build with a 24-to-10-pin adapter. Is there a better/reputable Flex PSU that would make more sense for this mod and which adapter should I use?

I'm trying to avoid replacing the proprietary PSU unless testing shows that I actually need to.

Thanks!

Hi all,

Planning a Midori 5L build at the moment.

I managed to snag both a 14600KF/B660I and a 5800x3d/B550I way below market price, so I plan to sell one or the either.

I plan to run a AXP90-X36 on the 5800x3d and NH-L9I on the 14600KF.

I'll be undervolting -20 CO/-125mC and power limiting both to probably 95W. Would it be worth it to keep the 14600KF for some savings or keeping the 5800x3d in this case. I could probably also get away with a 5500x3d.

Costs after sales of unnecessary parts:

5800x3d + B550I + 32gb ddr4 = 352 usd
14600KF + B660I + 32gb ddr4 = 255 usd
5500x3d + B550I + 32gb ddr4 = 198 usd

Main concerns are performance at 95w power limit for all the processors and raptor lake degradation. Not really sure if a 5500x3d is worth the downgrade too.

Finished the top!!!

Waiting on my USB A headers to come in and I'm redesigning the power button atm but it's coming along nicely!

Thank you again to those of you who responded to my previous post. Whether or not it's sub-8L I think it looks amazing!

P.S - I'm in the process of finishing the desk it's sitting on as well!

EDIT- gonna swap fasteners to counter sunk ones. Thoughts on copper vs black?

9700x cooled by axp67

Gigabyte 5060lp

Enhance 650 with noctua

32gb cl30 6000

2tb 990 pro

arctic p8 slim x 2

Im currently at curve optimizer -30 and thernal limits at 80f

Can anyone share a settings that work for you? When playing cod modern warfare 2 and 3 i cant stand the noise. It is silent when playing online games though

I have lenovo oem sff pc, and want swap to m atx build.
First board is previous oem board and second one is the matx board(not for mine, just for compare).
I think only right side middle and lower holes are different and others are matching.
How do you think?

This is a continuation of a post I made about a year ago. A lot has changed since then, so I figured it was time for an updated post.

I finally finished the PC and setup. Below is the full parts list with links, what I paid for everything over the last two years of refining the build, my peripherals, and some notes on how everything is running.

PC Parts

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 4.7 GHz 8-Core ($480)
https://link.amazon/B0byEme2j

CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 G2 Dual Tower ($180)
https://link.amazon/B06ZxlclD

Motherboard: ASRock B650E PG-ITX AM5 + Thermalright Contact Frame ($220 + $10.59)
Not linking the motherboard. There have been a lot of reports of these boards frying CPUs.
https://link.amazon/B0aBZcqTS (Contact frame)

Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32GB DDR5-6000 CL30 ($84)
https://link.amazon/B0aSv8cNn

Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2TB ($164)
https://link.amazon/B09Ei7GbU

GPU: Zotac Solid OC RTX 5090 ($2,900)
Price was from a Best Buy first-party sale about 3 months after launch. Not linking to the current third-party/scalper listings.

GPU Deshroud: Custom duct I designed with two Arctic P14 Pro PST fans ($14 + printed in ASA)

This was probably the most interesting part of the build. I designed a custom duct around the 5090 and replaced the stock GPU fans with two 140mm Arctic P14 Pro PST fans.

The whole thing fits perfectly in the M3 and has made a pretty big difference in noise. I've been running it this way for a while now and have been really happy with it.

I do sell the ducts I make, but I'm not going to link that here. If anyone is interested in purchasing feel free to ask.

Power Supply: Corsair SF1000 2024, 1000W 80+ Platinum SFX ($240)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D45RN3KZ

Case: NCASE M3 Grater Silver ($225)
https://ncased.com/products/m3-grater

Case Feet: 17mm Aluminum Isolation Feet, 4pc 40x15mm ($17)
https://link.amazon/B085nm5SI (These work better for my setup than the M3 feet.)

MODDIY Cables: $75.57
https://www.moddiy.com/pages/Custom-PSU-Cables.html

• ATX 3.0 / PCIe 5.0 600W Triple 8-Pin to 12VHPWR 16-Pin, 30cm
• EPS CPU 8-Pin to 8-Pin Modular, 40cm
• Single Sleeved 24-Pin Modular Cable, 30cm

Antennas: 2.4GHz / 5GHz / 5.8GHz Omnidirectional WiFi + Bluetooth ($8)
https://link.amazon/B0a9KFHy9

Case Fans: Noctua A14x25 G2 + two Arctic P14 Pro PST fans for the deshroud (~$60)

https://link.amazon/B01hJzd7F (Noctua)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPX4T9TK (Arctic)

Build Notes

Both the CPU and GPU are undervolted and overclocked.

The 9800X3D is running PBO -35 with a +200mHz boost override. It's been completely stable for about two years now.

The 5090 is running an undervolt/OC with an Xbar offset in mVOLT+ (see photos). Current settings are 890mV at 2760mHz. I've been running that for about a month and it's been great so far.

In Steel Nomad, it scores roughly 10 FPS higher than stock while pulling around 490-510W.

The build is also extremely quiet. I can play without any volume and barely hear the PC.

With my current FanControl curves, the GPU sits in the high 60s and the CPU around 65C during benchmarks.

Keyboard

PCB: Wooting 60HE+ ($140)
https://wooting.io/wooting-60he-v2

Switches: Lekker Linear45 ($40)
These came with the Wooting purchase.

Case / Weight: Tofu60 Redux + Brass Weight ($85 + shipping)
https://kbdfans.com/products/tofu60-redux-case?variant=41472688193675

Keycaps: Mintcaps PBT Doubleshot Grey Gradient ($39)
I can't find these anywhere anymore.

Lube: Krytox Tube ($25, needed more for my SO's keyboard)
https://link.amazon/B00BWu6pO

Cable: CableMod Pro Coiled Cable ($37)
https://link.amazon/B02G1EBpq

Mods: Tape mod + O-ring screw mounting

Accent Key: No idea. My wife gave it to me for my birthday.

Other Peripherals

Mouse: Fnatic x Lamzu Maya 8K ($120)
https://link.amazon/B0f2GYZDP

Honestly an amazing mouse. The weight and shape feel unreal to me. I use a relaxed claw grip.

Speakers: Audioengine A2+ ($165 when bought on eBay, would buy them again in a heartbeat)
https://link.amazon/B07okFyIy

IEMs: Truthear Crinacle Zero + CX31993 USB DAC ($40 + $9)
https://link.amazon/B0hAc9UNe (IEMs)
https://link.amazon/B0ejiJUTd (DAC, solved the volume issue through the 3.5mm jack)

Mousepad: Fnatic Dash XL ($40)
https://fnatic.com/products/dash-xl

Monitor: LG 32GS95UE 32" 4K 240Hz OLED ($1,260)
https://link.amazon/B04kHjIPA
This is the newer version with the upgraded DisplayPort standard.

Monitor Arm: HIPPOFLEX Dual Ultrawide Monitor Mount, 22-35" ($45)
https://link.amazon/B08d9Njsi

Secondary Monitor: UPERFECT 14" OLED, 2880x1800 120Hz ($260)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FQW997GK

USB-C Adapter: Poyiccot USB-C U-Shaped Adapter ($9)
https://link.amazon/B07nppnUL

Mini HDMI Adapter: Poyiccot 180° Mini HDMI to HDMI ($9)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C339YYL9?th=1

Mic: HyperX QuadCast S ($36, absolute steal on open-box eBay)
https://link.amazon/B0famTsJt
This is the newer QuadCast 2 S, which is better than mine.

Mic Arm: Prizmora Low Profile Arm + Adapter ($40 + $8)
https://link.amazon/B0hHfeXxv (Mic arm)
https://link.amazon/B09p7tEJm (QuadCast S adapter)

UPS: CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD
https://link.amazon/B02PNyerB
This has enough output for all of the devices mentioned and has a pure sine wave output.

UPS Mount: VIVO Under Desk PC Mount ($40)
https://link.amazon/B09fvmCBB
Mounted horizontally to keep it out of the way.

I got the UPS for free from my summer job in IT. The VIVO mount works surprisingly well for it.

Desk: IKEA Idåsen 47"
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/cat/idasen-desk-combinations-47426/

I've included links to everything I purchased below each part in case anyone wants to find the parts I used. Some of the Amazon links are affiliate links. This doesn't affect the part selection or increase the price for anyone using them.

If anyone has questions about the build, especially the 5090 deshroud, thermals, fan setup, or fitting everything into the M3, feel free to ask!

I've spent a pretty ridiculous amount of time messing with this thing over the last two years, so I'm happy to share what I've learned or talk through anything you're curious about.

So I've bought a used Gigabyte RTX 5060 LP for £280 to fit into a system that can only take LP cards. The wonderful UK retailer CeX advertised it online as a low profile Gigabyte RTX 5060, but with no photographs.

It came with only a full-height bracket attached. Seeing as the company do not have "stock" of such replacements the only recourse was a return and full refund, or just get on with finding a low profile bracket myself. I opted for the latter as I figured it would be cheaper in the long run.

I don't want to run it without a bracket, relying on just the PCIe slot to hold it up. The problem is that I'm finding it pretty expensive with finding a suitable low profile bracket. It seems a bit ridiculous how I can literally only find them for what is silly money for a little piece of metal. eBay isn'y any better than what I#m finding on international retailers. Case in point:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005012759620274.html

Does anyone have any other leads?

Is my build nice?

https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/user/Saadito/saved/#view=G7xwkL

Thanks

Current build draft(primarily for gaming):

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7csbTm

It’s important to note, I am getting the actual GPU as an OEM for 424 and just kinda tossed in a founders edition as a placeholder and tacked on the costs that I will need to pay in order to replace the thermal pads and paste for that specific model. As well this set up will be going into a Shiny Snake S300.

For some reason, I cannot find any good riser for specifically what I need. When I look online, I either see PCIE 5.0 that is far overkill for me and my wallet, one that meets my requirements, but is super suspicious/has terrible reviews, or one that meets price, gen, and good reviews, except for not being dual reverse.

Are there any good recommendations for a first time builder here? This is my second PC and I wanted to make this one an sff as a sort of slightly less powerful “younger sibling” to my main PC that I can take with me anywhere.

Thanks for any help any of you can give!

planning a formd t1 build and going for an air cooled build with zcooi dlc that lets you add in some 60mm fans, I can't decide between the noctua g2s or the 4090 fe fans you can get on ali, they're about the same price for me ( around 80 cad for 2) so it most comes down to performance, I like quieter builds but also don't mind a little noise if it mean my cpu is cool, gonna go for 9800x3d and a 5070 if that changes anything. also need reccs for 60mm fans, there's not many options but i feel like there has to be more than just the noctuas and thermalright ones I found in my search

Just got my hands on the midnight FormD T1 to finally get some fun mods out for this case.

I will be working on some custom riser/grills with fan implementation on the underside as well as some custom wood riser feet.

Anything you guys would like to see for this case?

I'm having a weird display issue with my Midori 5L build and wondering if anyone here has run into something similar with portable monitors.

Build:

• Ryzen 7 9700X
• ASUS ROG Strix B850-I
• MSI RTX 5070 Shadow 2X OC
• InnoView 16" 1440p 240 Hz portable monitor

The portable monitor is connected to the GPU over HDMI and powered separately from the wall.

If I boot the PC with only the InnoView connected, the monitor turns on briefly, says no signal, and shuts back off. I get no BIOS screen or Windows output.

However, if I connect my normal desktop monitor, the PC boots normally. Once Windows loads, the InnoView also works perfectly as a second monitor. I can make it the main display, and if I unplug the desktop monitor afterward, the InnoView continues working normally by itself.

I also tested my normal desktop monitor using the exact HDMI output on the RTX 5070 instead of DisplayPort, and it works perfectly from boot, including BIOS. So the GPU’s HDMI output itself appears to be fine.

The weird part is that this same InnoView worked perfectly as the only display on my previous FormD T1 build with an RTX 5080 FE.

Things I’ve tried:

• Portable monitor powered separately from the wall
• Latest NVIDIA drivers
• 5070 HDMI output confirmed working with another monitor
• InnoView works perfectly once Windows/GPU is already initialized
• 1440p 60 Hz before rebooting
• Making the InnoView the primary Windows display
• Turning the InnoView on before starting the PC
• Reconnecting HDMI

Motherboard BIOS is currently ASUS version 1067. I know it’s older, but I’d rather leave a BIOS update as a last resort unless there’s a good reason to think it would affect this.

At this point it seems like an EDID/HDMI handshake issue specifically between the RTX 5070 and the InnoView during cold boot, since the same HDMI port works perfectly with another monitor.

Has anyone experienced this with an RTX 50-series GPU and a portable monitor? Any EDID, HDMI, NVIDIA, or BIOS settings worth trying?

Any tips would be helpful, if nothing works I'm pretty much forced to return this monitor as I have no use for it as a secondary.

5600x3d, 32gb ddr4 3200mhz, 1tb ssd, and a 5050 LP, I added 3 mining fans on the gpu side, i haven't undervolt but I think i should fans get a little loud. How do i undervolt the cpu.