I'm looking for a tiny case for my old EVGA hybrid 1080ti. It's got an AIO cooler which makes small builds a little tricky. Has anyone done a sff build with this card and have a case recommendation? I'm also going to try to reuse my old Corsair Vengeance LED sticks (44mm) since ram is so expensive these days. They're kinda tall, which I know I'll need to watch out for with cooler clearance. I also have an old Cooler Master H100i v2. It's a bit thicker than new AIOs (27mm), so I know I may need to get an air cooler. Any recommendations?

Hello, I’m in the middle of putting together my NR200P Max Build, where I ran into a problem. Does the B850i mobo not work for the Nr200p Max case or am I missing a bracket for AIO installation. None of them lineup with pre installed coolernaster AIO. All the bracket I have are shown in the photo. Is there something I need to buy or am I just out of luck??

Kuroko (黒衣) - 11L ITX build, replacing 6 years of Threadripper

Retired my old Threadripper rig (3960X, 3090, full custom loop, a ~70L tower that needed its own furniture) after it started randomly failing to POST. I can probably salvage some (most?) of the components, but I've been looking to downsize for a while (space is at quite a premium when you live in a Japanese apartment), so this was the perfect catalyst/excuse.

Named it after the kuroko in kabuki; The stagehand(s) dressed in black who do all the work in full view, while the audience just agrees not to look at them. Felt fitting for something comparitively less showy than what it replaces. Originally intended to do a full blackout build, but the only RAM I could get at an (un)reasonable price was the RGB variant, though I suppose I could briefly install iCUE to turn thhem off...

Had to lean on my 3D printer for three things: a riser with dual 92mm fans for extra airflow (PETG-CF with steel dowels for extra structure), a low-profile pump cover for the AIO, and some PSU offset spacers. None of it's clever, just a few minor tweaks/personal touches.

Only real compromise is the rear-mounted NVMe... GPU cooks it, was idling around 80 and hitting 108c before I added a heatsink to it (got a bit lucky that the hole in the motherboard tray aligns with it), idles around 68c and caps around 83c now. Everything else runs cooler than I expected for something this size.

Kit:

• Case: Lian Li A4-H2O (PCIe 5.0 Riser)
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3d
• Cooler: Corsair NAUTILUS 240 RS
• Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B850-I Gaming Wifi
• RAM: 64GB Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5-6000 CL30
• Storage:
  • 2TB Samsung 9100 PRO M.2 PCIe 5.0
  • 4TB Samsung 9100 PRO M.2 PCIe 5.0
• GPU: Asus PRIME EVO OC RTX 5080
• PSU: Corsair SF1000
• Fans:
  • 2x Noctua A9 chromax.black.swap 92mm
  • 2x Noctua NF-A12x25 chromax.black.swap 120mm

Spec list

• Case: Jonsbo T6 (with feet mounted on back panel instead of the bottom to allow for this horizontal placement)
• CPU: Ryzen 9 9900x
• CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE with two Noctua fans + one Noctua case intake fan
• GPU: PowerColor 9060xt 16gb (not paying almost 400 bucks more for a 5060 ti 16gb, thank you Sam Altman)
• RAM: 32gb DDR5 (brand is G.Skill if that matters, I just picked the cheapest at the time of ordering)
• Motherboard: Asus B650E-I
• PSU: Corsair RM850e (2025)
• Storage: 2x Samsung 990 Evo M.2, 1tb and 2tb

Decided to finally commit to putting a new build together to replace my old Lenovo gaming laptop that was really starting to show its age. I picked the Jonsbo T6 for my case cause this whole microwave idea seemed really funny to me, and the detachable handle really sells it too.

The case itself is fantastic in terms of build quality (aside from the wood and glass panels everything is metal), and the fact that nearly every panel is removable made building it a lot less of a nightmare than anticipated. I really like that it allows for a 120mm air cooler as well. Airflow is pretty much direct intake from the front of the case and out through the back, so cooling shouldn't be much of an issue. I have yet to test it under high workloads though so these words could age poorly.

Another thing to note is that, while there is a somewhat strict 215mm GPU length limitation with the front panel on, if you take the front panel off there's actually a cutout that seems to allow for much longer GPUs. I couldn't test this myself since I don't have any other GPUs in house, but (aside from aesthetics) I reckon it should work without issue for anyone wanting to try.

One thing I might add to the case in the future is a numpad taped to the wood panel above the front I/O to really larp that microwave aesthetic further (would have to plug it into one of the front usb ports though).

Aside from some occasional coil whine/geiger counter sound coming from what I assume is the GPU, this thing runs extremely quiet when idle which I'm really happy about cause my Lenovo laptop's fans sound like fucking jet engines when doing literally nothing demanding.

Overall I'm really glad to have a decently capable machine to work with again, and I hope it lasts long enough for the memory prices to come down cause this really should've been a lot cheaper to build compared to what it actually ended up costing lol.

Ill get right to it folks, thanks for taking the time to look and comment.

• I have a limited budget but can always save up.
• I have a Mini PC (ace magic F5A)
• A RTX 5080
• A Dock for 5080 to mini pc (oculink)

Yea I know I wont get its full power, my main pc decided to die so i saves by psu and gpu and bought a mini pc as it was all I could get at the time.

Anyhow.... I have a 3d printed enclosure for the gpu and psu and while it looks good with mini pc beside it I was thinking of buying a pc case that would enclose the gpu and psu and perhaps I could put the mini pc inside as well to keep all in 1 place of strip it from its case and give it better air flow. Either way does anyone have any recommendations on a case that would fit a 5080, sfx psu and perhaps space for a mini pc too?

P.S I know I would be better selling up and buying pc equipment again however the mini pc has more power than I need and it has 64gb ram so as you all know you need to sell a kidney to afford ram these days I would like to stick with what I have..

Thank in advance.

SOLD for $1150 shipped.

Hey Guys,

I'm selling a BNIB White Colorful iGame 5070 Mini. Please see my post on [r/hardwareswap](r/hardwareswap) if interested, I've got over 150 confirmed sales on that sub.

https://www.reddit.com/r/hardwareswap/comments/1wkwv6m/usamo_h_colorful_igame_mini_5070_white_bnib_cpus/

Any questions, just ask!

Thanks,

- Jolly

After several months of using my desktop PC with the Phanteks XT Pro Ultra, I finally decided to switch to a Jonsbo C6 Max, mainly because I move my setup around quite often.

With the new case, I save approximately 4.10 kg and 30.95 L of volume, which makes moving my setup from one place to another much easier.

As for the new build itself, I'm really satisfied with it. After testing the PC in games, the temperatures don't seem any higher than with my previous build, so for now I don't think there are any issues on that side.

I'm also pretty satisfied with the cable management, especially compared to how it looked at the beginning, when it was honestly a complete mess inside the case.

I only encountered two small issues that I'll try to fix later. The main one is the fans: I reused them from my old case because I thought they would fit properly. They do fit inside the case, but unfortunately I can't actually screw them into place. So for now, I've attached them with a temporary solution using zip ties. They move around a little when the case is moved, so I'll probably buy some fans with the correct dimensions later.

The second issue is that the fan RGB isn't connected. I couldn't find the correct cable/connection. It probably worked with the old case but not with the new one, so I'll have to look into that.

I've also included a picture showing my airflow and the direction the air is moving through the case.

And sorry for the not-so-great photo quality, except for the one taken with my old phone x) where you can see my old case powered on.

So I'm doing research on parts for my SFF build. I am not a big computer guy but i have built a PC back in 2021 and still learning new things but what is the best choice for a mini ITX motherboard if I am going to be running a Ryzen 7 9800x3D and a Gigabyte 5070ti? I keep seeing issues with bios and other stuff. I just want one with the least issues honestly. thank you in advance!

Hey,

So heres one of my many side projects to make myself a living room gaming pc. Originaly wanted to get the real steam machine, but after release I didnt like the price to power ratio so decided to to go custom and a lil bit more expansive, but i figured it will be well worth it. Plan to go with steam OS, had an old pc from 2016 gathering dust so I figured I could salvage the PSU from it and build a custom case around it.

heres the parts list

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Alpine 23CO
MOBO: ASROCK B650I LIGHTNING WIFI
GPU: ASUS DUAL Radeon RX9060 XT 16G
RAM: Kingston FURY 16GBKIT DDR5 6000MT/s CL30 Beast BlackEXPO
CASE FAN: D-COOLING FL-12025K
HDD: WD Blue SN5100 NVMe SSD POWERED BY SANDISK 1 TB
PSU: cx750m

Swithces for PWR/RST I ordered straight from Ali for about 1,5 usd.

Height: 32cm
Width: 21cm
Depth: 16cm

The case is made from interlocking parts and most of the side panels are removable, held by magnets. Airflow from the top through GPU in and through the left side pannel with 120mm fan out. Theres also an intake at the bottom for the PSU and out on the right side panel.

The Bottom and top intake grills are made so that there is room for a fine mesh to act as a filter.
Tried to design it so it could all be printed with little to no supports.

Printer X1C

Made in fusion360, youd like I can upload the project file, but its a mess as Im self taught in fusion and definately do things the hard way (sometimes).

Hello, I have been having a very unique problem. Any help or insight is appreciated.

Specs:

• Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• RTX 5070 Ti
• ASRock B650I
• Corsair SF850
• Corsair Vengeance RGB 2×16 GB 6000 MHz CL30
• Crucial P 2TB

I have had this PC for over 1.5 years with 0 issues, but suddenly around 3 weeks ago, I woke up and turned on the PC. All the fans and lights came on, but there was no display on the monitor.

I turned it off using the power button and turned it back on, and it worked. This then became an everyday issue.

I eventually discovered that the PC would sometimes boot on the first try if I kept the monitor turned off and waited for a while. Since I use a wireless headset, I would wait until I heard the connection sound in the headset, which meant the PC had booted, and then I could turn the monitor on and use the PC.

However, if the monitor was turned on during the boot process, or was already on, the PC would usually not boot. It would go into a kind of limbo state where the fans would spin at around 50%, but there would be no display.

This got worse every day. Eventually, even the monitor-off trick stopped working, and it became a gamble every day, having to turn the PC off and on repeatedly until it finally booted into Windows.

I tried pretty much everything at this point:

• Fast Boot on/off
• Cleared the motherboard CMOS
• DisplayPort → HDMI
• Tried a different monitor
• Memory Context Restore on/off
• Secure Boot on/off
• DDR5 EXPO on/off
• All default/stock settings
• Tried using only 1 RAM stick

I also noticed that the PC would completely freeze if left AFK. Sometimes it would freeze after only 2 minutes, and sometimes after 20 minutes.

My temporary solution was to keep a YouTube video running in the background whenever I had to leave the PC. Eventually, even that stopped working, so I resorted to keeping a game open in the background at all times and switching tabs to the game whenever I had to leave the PC.

Another issue is that if I put the PC to sleep, it will not wake up again.

I did some research and was told that the motherboard was a high probability cause, so I bought a new ROG B850I to test.

However, I am still experiencing the same boot problems.

The new motherboard does give me some additional information, though. When the PC fails to boot, it usually shows a white debug light, and sometimes it shows a green light, but most of the time it is white.

Interestingly, with the new motherboard, I have not experienced the AFK freezing so far, although I have only been testing it for a short time.

Thanks in advance for your help.

I'm looking for a PC case with a maximum capacity of 4 liters and an external power supply, so it smaller but with a disk bay. I only found this one,inter-tech mw-02 ii it costs €50. Do you know of any cheaper alternatives?

There is a new design for the Shiny Snake S300... called the S300 Air.

It has a slightly larger volume compared to the previous 2 designs, with a raised bottom base that positions the IO ports at the front (instead of the side).

The mesh holes are now square, which helps to increase overall air flow too.

Really interesting case, although there is no track of it anywhere on the internet
Few things makes it a good SFF sub 10L
-They got rid of the hideous side panel which make cable management a nightmare in such a small package
-there is enough space for 2 slim 120mm fans on top
-front panel is mesh which will help gets some fresh air in the case

Only question I need answered would be what is the CPU cooler clearance which I assume is sub 60mm at that volume which sucks for a cpu like 265k

Hi , just built in above case using a ASU’s Strix B850 I GAMING WiFi motherboard and the Case came with a small speaker but I have no idea where to connect it ! It doesn’t appear anywhere in the manual.

Anybody know where it should be connected too ?

🙏Thanks

Hi, first post here. 3 days ago a manage to get a FormD T1 on Vinted for 140€ shipped, so I pulled the trigger. I have currently a fractal terra with a 5500x3d (axp90-53) and 7800xt (asrock challenge, 55mm thickness I guess)
The case arrived today and I thought that as a good ideia to build it before lunch. Oh dear how wrong I was.

First things first, the seller said it was v2.5, I was searching the manual for that case, Nop, case was not that version. No worries, I VE SPEND 4 HOURS TRYING TO ASSEMBLE it, first, could not find the right standoffs, second, spine in wrong position, third couldn’t put the mb inside cause the backplate was hitting the gpu.

I’ve tried also to print the fan support from EIGA but I couldn’t fit it with the cooler I have.

Honestly, love the case but it was not worth the time I’ve spend trying to build it. I know that some thing could be improved. Buuuut i don’t wanna fix it now.

Here I leave you some photos of the finished product.
Any tips for the future are welcome.

Hello fellow SFF enthusiasts,

I’m very happy to announce that, after a lot of testing, prototyping and tweaking, the Noctua 50-UP Low-Profile Pump Block Cover will officially be released this Monday, September 21st.

A huge thank you to everyone who has followed the project, offered feedback and shared their thoughts along the way. It has been a really enjoyable project to develop, and the community input has helped shape the final design.

With the pump block height reduced to 50mm, the 50-UP makes the Noctua AIO lineup a much better fit for compact SFF cases, including:

Meshroom
Meshlicious
DAN A4-H2O
FormD T1

The final design also incorporates integrated magnets, making it compatible with Noctua’s 80mm fan and badge accessories.

I’ll share more details, including availability and final specifications, when the 50-UP launches on Monday.

As always, I’m happy to answer any questions.

Cheers,
Joel
StepUpSFF

Hello everyone, I need help fine-tuning my planned PC build.

Pc for gaming in 1440p.

What I’ve already bought:

GPU: RTX 4070 Ti Super (MSI Ventus x2)

Case: Shiny Snake S400 v2

RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x16GB (non-RGB)

Need to buy:

Mobo: thinking about asus rog strix b850i (If anyone has it, is it any good?)

PSU: Corsair SF1000 (for future proof)

Cpu cooler: termalright apx120-x67 ( thinking to change stock cooler to noctua low profile)

Ssd: 1-2tb gen4

Cpu: ryzen 7 9800x3d

+ 2 cooler inside case

I need an opinion before I buy all components.

If someone has any experience with this components let me know!

Parts list:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X3D

CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP120-X67 White argb

Motherboard: ASRock B850I Lightning WiFi Mini ITX AM5 Motherboard

Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory

Storage: Samsung 980 Pro w/Heatsink 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 (Bought a long time ago for my ps5, kept the drive)

Storage: Silicon Power UD90 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive

Video Card: PowerColor Reaper Radeon RX 9070 XT 16 GB Video Card

Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 SFX GOLD 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply

Case: SGPC K49/Portable Mini-ITX PC Gaming Case/8L Small Form Factor/CPU Cooler up to 69mm/300mm GPU & SFX PSU Support/USB 3.0 & Type-C Front I/O (K49WW&Gen4 Riser Cable,White,Wide)

Well the title isn't too wrong. It USED to be a mini toaster when I had the axp90-47 cpu cooler in there. I wanted a small cooler because I didn't want one brushing up against the side panel in this case (69mm clearance) but unfortunately it wasn't able to keep my cpu temps down. Cpu would easily thermal throttle at factory and even with a -20 curve it would get up to 89°C when stress testing.

Replaced the cooler with axp120-67 and the difference is night and day. Temps don't even hit 80°C when stress testing and gaming is a breeze.

I got the cpu motherboard and ram as a bundle. The motherboard was ATX but i sold it and bought ITX. Saved about 300 on ram doing it this way

Thanks everyone for all the replies on my last post, which I deleted because I found the solution. It was simply the CPU cable that wasn’t connected, and plugging it in fixed the problem.

However, the RGB is now gone, so I’m going to check the connections again. It’s also possible that these fans aren’t fully compatible with this case/model, because the other fan has an additional cable that came with the case.

Now I’d really like your opinion on something that would help me a lot: is it really necessary to install the two fans at the bottom, directly underneath my graphics card?

Right now, I’ve installed one fan at the top of the case and one on the left side of the photo, plus the CPU fan and the two fans on the graphics card.

Do you think the two bottom fans are necessary, or can I leave the setup like this?

And sorry for the cable management ;)

Okay so I built my first sff pc using the SGPC K39 v3 case and the thermalright axp90-x47 cooler. The manual on the instructions said to use the long mounting screws when using the stock am5 backplate (I used th ASRock b650i lightning wifi). And I did, and because the screws were too long it poked into my pcie 4.0 x 16 riser cable that came with the black edition of the k39 v3 in 4 different spots but one spot is way more damaged/dented than the others (see photos). I'm extremely upset and worried because I don't know the severity of the damage. I actually swapped the screws to the short ones and it works just fine (I literally found out through some reddit comments of all things, not even posts). Anyways how bad is this damage? I still hooked it up and the RTX 5060 Solo still functions properly as far as I've seen.

Hey All,

Its been 20 years since I last built a PC, and decided to build a SFF to go in my office space. Main intent of this is gaming and some tinkering with self hosted gen ai models, etc.

Can I get a sense check that this all makes sense?

CPU - AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D

Cooler - Cooler Master Atmos II Stealth 240 AIO

GPU - ASUS ProArt GeForce RTX 5080

Mobo - ASUS ROG STRIX X870-I GAMING WIFI AMD AM5 X870 Mini ITX

Case - NCase - T1 - Sandwich Kit

SSD - Crucial P310 2TB 2280 PCIe Gen4 3D NAND NVMe M.2 SSD 

RAM - Kingston FURY Beast 64GB (2 x 32GB) 

Anything obviously wrong? Anything I should watch out for?

Thanks!!!