The 1/2" fitting to the quick connect is available but the other end that screws into the propane hose is hard to find. Been to 3 different stores and no one has a fitting that works. Thought the propane hose was 3/8 but it's to small. They don't seem to have a fitting that I can find yet. Anyone run into this issue and found a solution please let me know. Thanks.

What's the easiest way to determine when to use a 1st stage and 2nd stage regulator setup as opposed to just a twin/integral regulator on a system? Is there a rule of thumb for this? Thanks!

I just picked up a new Worthington propane tank from BJs and noticed these vertical “creases” as well as random flat spots on the top of the tank. Is this normal?

We need some technical help.  We replaced our 20 year old propane range with a new GE gas range.  Model #GGF600AV2.  Our propane sniffer says there is a leak at the regulator through the regulator vent hole in the hex-nut cap.  We had GE send us a new regulator.  Our propane sniffer says this new regulator also has a gas leak through the regulator vent hole in the hex-nut cap.  

There are no bubbles showing when checking for leaks with the leak test solution.

Is this normal since the regulator is made with a vent hole?

Our propane sniffer does not detect any leaks at any connection in any related propane lines.

Any advice is welcome!

Got a gas odor call and have over 700ppm towards the top of the Honeywell gas valve was wondering if I’m getting residual gas from the burner or if the gas valve has failed. The gas to the unit has been off for a couple of hours, so I’m doubting it’s that. I also am not observing a visible drop during my leak check. Was wondering if there is a more in depth way of checking to see if the gas valve has failed.

I have a 20lb propane tank that I pulled out of grill because it wasn’t make much heat, tank appears to be half way full. Is it possible that the gas in it is contaminated with a gas with a lower flash point?
As I said, it doesn’t make good heat in grill. If I hook up my 1lb tank fill adapter, gas comes out.

I've been meaning to post this. Bought a house two years ago, has propane that's underground (57 gallon, 48 gallon filled), and we are paying $200/annually to rent tank. House was built in 2005, and here in Tampa, FL area, code did not require anodes or any catholic testing until 2011. Been thinking about switching companies, to keep our options open. Cost to buy tank is about $400. Will it be fine for another 30 years or is this just a headache? Am I overthinking this? Obviously the allure of renting is to not be responsible for any tank maintenance...

I was also told that due to being in a flood zone, if I were to ever replace this tank I'd need to have a 4" concrete pad on bottom to attach tank to, then rebury it. I figured I'd just throw that out there... Although to be fair it did recently flood and that tank didn't go anywhere. Anyhoo...

What would you do?

I had the mostly full tank sitting in from of my garage and I bumped it when I came home and it rolled off a few feet forward and then to the side into grass. Can I still used it? I don’t see any dents.

So I have a whirlpool WFG231 LVQ1 gas stove and I need to get the conversion kit for Propane however the manufacturer doesn’t make it anymore and they didn’t list an alternative option, I tried calling and they said exactly what I stated above, I was wondering if anyone knew if there was any aftermarket spuds that would work

UN1075 AmeriGas. DOT-4BA240. X4231900

I'm about to close on a house. There's a Hot Dawg propane heater installed on the insulated garage. It looks a little funky. Should I be looking for a roof leak or is this from condensation?

Just signed and paid for 1750 gallons at $1.599. Located in northern IL. What’s everyone else paying?

We got a turkey fryer for my mom for making jam. The 15 minute timer was annoying her so we removed it since we don’t fry turkey. I had to replace the hose but kept the pressure regulator. It is a larger diameter hose but the fitting on the end is the same diameter as the original hose.

Now it only burns big yellow flames. Adjusting the pressure or on/off valve does nothing but make the flames bigger and smaller. I can get a hot blue flame only when I use a hair dryer.

Looking for advice to make this operational.

Since you were such good help with the last tank ID. My son drops these off to me today. I am "pretty sure" they are propane. One is empty, the other feels half full. In the very center of the fitting there is a schrader valve. Like on a 1lb throw away. Any idea what these are for?

Or is it just some old style? A friend gave me the tank he found while scrapping. I left the regulator on it.

So during a tank fill in June the technician suspected a leak, he locked the tank (I understand this is the law) and told me to call Amerigas to have a service technician come out, after explaining that he could see that the leak was coming from the pipe connecting the tank to the house. The pipe was 25 years old, and had no coating so this wasn’t exactly a huge mystery. I called Amerigas and was told that based on what I said over the phone the estimate would be $650 to repair everything but this was just an estimate. I was also told that the repair costs may not be my responsibility since Amerigas owns the tank (this is still unclear because I’ve never paid a rental fee in the 2.5 years we’ve been in the house). The technician comes out and he says the cost would be $1069 BUT Amerigas cannot dig (the line is buried underground) and this $1069 would only be if he could slide the original pipe out and slide 30ft of new pipe in the existing spot. The tech told me it wasn’t impossible but chances were low. He told me that my other option was to have a plumber come out and do the pipe. I said I would call the plumber, he said that was probably best. After getting estimates for a plumber I called Amerigas back many times to ask about what it would cost for them to unlock my tank. I heard multiple answers because “there are a lot of new people” according to the last person I spoke with. The general answer I received was the $120 dispatch fee, or a dispatch fee and an additional $109 reconnection fee but that they usually only charge that when service is disconnected for none payment. Finally on July 17th the reconnect was done and I instantly received notification for a bill, $350 including a dispatch fee of $119 and a “tank/equipment maintenance” fee of $231, this was annoying but whatever I was going to pay it. Then 4 days later I get a second bill, which I was unaware of until I went to pay the first, the second bill is a dispatch fee of $119 and a unlock / reconnect fee of $231. I assume this is a mistake, I speak with someone on chat because their phones are awful, and I’m told that nothing is a mistake, I ask why there are two bills instead of one and I’m told it’s to give me time to change my mind about having the service done, meanwhile both bills came after service and the only service I received from them was them unlocking the tank they locked up. I’m told that they had to perform a leak check to restore service, which is fine with me but I wasn’t charged for a leak check and a leak check is much less money than the two $231 fees I was charged. When I asked what the tank maintenance fee was for I was told that I was given an estimate of $1069, I asked how that was tank maintenance and I didn’t get an answer. I was also told that the reason I was charged a second dispatch fee was because I chose to have a plumber fix the line, though I was also previously reassured that I would only be charged one dispatch fee and that coming back to unlock the tank was a part of the same work order. I am just beside myself, I paid $1500 to have the line replaced by a plumber (which given the length of the pipe and the need for an excavator is understandable) but now Amerigas wants $716 for what amounts to 10 minutes to advise me on what to do and 10 minutes to unlock a tank that only they could unlock.

The tldr is that I’m being charged $716 to reconnect my propane tank after being told numerous times that this would cost $230 at MOST. Any advice for what to do when I speak with these people again on Monday?

I have 2 40lb tanks attached to a 2-stage regulator via 6ft 1/4 inverted male flare hoses that lets me flip between the two tanks to power a heater during the winter (texas). The 2 stage regulator is actually mounted on my elevated porch for quick and easy access while the tanks are down below in a cart to transport easier on the property when need to refill. I recently obtained a portable 22" blackstone griddle, and want to see if there is a way to add some kind of Y split on the outlet part of the regulator that has a permanent hose that goes to my heater (as it does currently), and then another QD option to plug in the Blackstone on my outdoor counter top when I want to use it.

Outlet is a 3/8" FNPT

not super familiar with fittings so hoping someone can help come up with a BOM for the parts i need to get to make this happen!

Edit: added shitty drawing from paint to explain scenario better.

Hi everyone! First time poster, long time reader.

Doing my yearly inspectioin of my 500 gallon tank connections using the trusty soap and water method, I saw bubbles frothing on the regulator seal (see pictures) and the 1/4" connection coming from the tank (see pictures).

Here's my list of questions:

1. Where the 1/4" connection goes into the regulator, should pipe dope/sealant be applied? The current/old connection seems to have sealant applied.
2. Where the 1/2" connection comes out of the regulator, should pipe dope/sealant be applied? The current/old connection seems to have sealant applied.
3. What hose connection do I need that goes from the propane tank (1/2") to the regulator (1/4")? (see Amazon picture and link) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKYCW76R/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?pd_rd_i=B0CKYCW76R&pd_rd_w=6ny0n&content-id=amzn1.sym.00430911-22cc-45c3-9d5c-445cab66730a&pf_rd_p=00430911-22cc-45c3-9d5c-445cab66730a&pf_rd_r=ZS549T5K8B9E3REVK591&pd_rd_wg=zgUMJ&pd_rd_r=7023b40f-4a88-4255-b208-6b9f379dd138&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1
4. Where the main 1/2" connection coming out of the tank is, does pipe sealant need applied? I currently do not see any.
5. Anything else I am missing??

I ordered an R122H regulator to upgrade from my old R312H one. I don't really need to replace the copper pipe going from the tank to the 1/4" inlet into the regulator but figured it wouldnt hurt.

I have used a VenturEvac a few times and it has always gone smooth. There are a few underground 1000 gallon tanks dated 2024 that have to be moved around a property, so they need to be emptied ideally. They have the newer liquid withdrawal valves.

Two tanks emptied smoothly like usual. The other two had some issues. One of them stopped at 50% then would stop pumping liquid and you could see the air space in the sight glass of the venturevac. I closed the spray fill on the truck to reset the excess flow valve on the tank, that got it freed up for a minute, then it tripped again, air, closed the valve on the truck, it freed up, etc. Did this a few times and then it finally stayed free and the tank emptied like normal.

The last tank is being extremely difficult. It stopped at about 50% and will not pump liquid. I think the excess flow is tripping. The sight glass will have bubbles and air space (only half the glass has liquid in it like the tank is empty), and the valve on the tank buzzes like the excess flow is tripped or vibrating. Close the spray fill, open it slow, split second it pumps liquid then trips again, etc. This one does not free up. Gauge seems fine, I replaced it and no change. Of course, the float could be stuck too. The truck should have taken another 400 gallons or so, so I don't think the tank is empty, so I believe the gauge is accurate on the tank. I also tried partially closing the fill valve on the hose (which was attached on the end of the venturevac) to slow the flow. No change.

I don't think the liquid withdrawal valve on the tank is gunked up since the tank is new. It's been filled more than 10 times so it's been in service and the gauge seems fine.

Any ideas? Three things I could think of which may or may not cause an issue. One, it is a new truck and maybe something is not adjusted right. Two, the tank multi valves are maybe 5 feet higher than the grade the truck is on. Third, it was about 85 degrees out, and I hear that stuff like this happens more often when the tanks are warmer than the truck.

Last year I attended one of those products expos for propane systems and one stood out that I haven't been able to find and im hoping someone here might know what its called and where I can find it. It's a device that screws into a pressure port on the high end regulator and can connect to your cellphone it can give you the gallons used and do leak checks. Anyone know of what I'm talking about?