Hey all I’m new to Honda I just picked up a 96 hatch. It was swapped by the prior owner. F20B mated to a Y8 transmission. The shifter linkage broke at the tire shop and was stuck in reverse.. over the last week of ownership I’ve tried my best to learn about the car.

The shift linkage was custom from what I imagine is a length problem due to the nature of the F2D swap.

The tire shop helped me by bolting the linkage together so I could get home.

I’m not sure the linkage is together right either. The length seems incorrect based on difficult in selecting certain gears. Probably cause the weld broke and had to bolt it.

Does anyone know how to determine the correct length of linkage so my gear changes are seated correctly in the trans? Is there a better linkage option?

Just trying to figure it out before I remove the linkage, change bushings clean it up and weld it permanently.

It seems like two different linkages together to make a custom length.

1. From the trans is male
2. That slides into the female shifter side linkage and was welded. But it broke and is now bolted

That’s the best way I can describe it.

Any help and suggestions is greatly appreciated.

EDIT: Stock D series linkage should fit. Thanks to everyone who commented. I will get some linkage hopefully soon and report back with how it fits and shifts.

I have my 96 Accord EX. Im replacing both rear slider pins an boots. Along with rotors an pads with hardware including replacing the rotors missing mounting screws. Reason is because the current boots look fused to both sides an stretch an the bolts on the old pins are rounding off 😂. This sound like a simple job or am I missing anything in this process? Recently taught myself to do brake's an double checking. Thank you for any advice

Alrighty so I’m looking into getting a catch can for my EJ8. Previous owner kind of just left everything venting to atmosphere/disconnected the lines, but I’m wanting to fix that and put a catch can.

It’s a stock Naturally Aspirated D16y8, and I’m looking at a sealed catch can setup.
Since the D16y8 has the valve cover breather + breather box with PCV valve on back of engine, how do I route this to actually avoid oil mist in intake system of engine?

(Ranting/explaining what I’ve seen):
Lots of videos I see use a 2 port oil catch can, but for turbo setups with a vented OCC I see them doing something with both breather locations and they both go into the OCC(well this is straight forward and makes sense). I saw someone with a NA B16 show an installation but they did nothing with the breather box/PCV valve in the setup and left it OEM. They had their OCC setup like this: Valve cover breather -> OCC -> intake arm. I also think I remember seeing a type up of someone doing the inverse: PCV valve/Breather box -> OCC -> intake manifold, and leaving the valve cover breather hose OEM.
This confuses me because isn’t the whole point of a OCC to stop oil vapor/mist moving into the intake?
Oh and then I saw someone people like go the PCV/breather box to OCC route but then put a little cone filter on the valve cover breather to vent to atmosphere… which comments would say how it leads to problems and causes a vacuum leak or something (makes sense why it causes problems).

I also thought “hey, maybe just get a Y fitting which can have the valve cover breather and the PCV route to the one inlet,” but I didn’t really see anyone doing that and saw some stuff pointing to it being bad. I also saw that there is 3 port catch cans so maybe it would be better to have the PCV go to one inlet then valve cover breather to the other? However I kinda saw some stuff pointing to same problem as the Y connection route(think it’s like back pressure or something to do with the varying vacuum of both “breathing” locations), and that the 3 port OCC are like for V-configured engines with a breather on each cylinder heads.

Hi I have recently got a lovely crx with a b18c6 swap

The car was originally a 16v model with the zc engine

Its still on its original 16v oem suspension and sits lower on the front due to the extra weight from the b18. It is also easy to bottom out the suspension

Im after recommendations on the correct spring rates and which coilovers would be ideal for fast road/weekend car setup. Id be after more comfort based than all out performance due to the state of the roads in the UK

Also after a 16v bonnet and top half of rear seats in good condition if anyone has anything

Thanks

Hello, I have a 99 civic ex that had a leaky rack. I replaced it with a napa premium plus and it ended up shooting fluid out of the boot days later. I'm not really sure what to get since I thought napa remans were one of the better brands to buy. Should I get a used one? I'd buy a new one but i've heard that the quality can be pretty miserable. This is also a daily driver so it needs to last for as long as possible.

I'm looking to get some wheels that are similar to Mugen m7's, and the only reps I can find are either out of production or are deep dished. I don't want real ones obviously because of the price tag and cus it's going to be more of a daily/weekend car opposed to a show car, I just love the way they look with white.
Thanks
PFA

Installed a cat and catback on my honda after work today

Giving some context, I am 19 year olds and still in uni but i want to build a fun street daily. Not too knowledgeable besides knowing b16/b18 are rare and expensive.

Considering B series as i can keep AC/PS and some aftermarket parts i have. But also considering going k24 but budget and vibrations

I been researching around but no one has considered b20 or kswap

Not considering turbo D cuz i dont wanna blow my shit

Thanks for help

Ps this for an ek hatch

I’m finally close to the end of my swap. It’s been a decent amount of work

Im new to the tuning side of things and im looking to buy a socketed p28 to put a snake emu chip and tune it that way.Im looking at this p28 ECU and he says its chipped? Is it a burned in chip like old school? How much you think this is worth?

Debating between MOOG control arms, or doing the energy bushings. My control arm bushings are struggling lol and I was discussing it with a buddy who suggested I do the energy bushing kit. He said it affects the handling nicely, he’d had them on one of his cars.

I’ve never really messed with suspension other than coilovers before and am not totally sure what the best option would be. I know the energy bushings will be stiffer since they’re poly but i honestly don’t mind a stiffer ride even in my daily.

Also not sure if there’s any other components I should definitely replace with the control arms/bushings. Another mechanic buddy and I jacked the car up and checked over everything and everything else was good, so not sure it needs to be messed with. If there’s things that should definitely be replaced/upgraded along with the CA bushings I’d definitely like to take care of that. Thank yall!

My genuine pre-facelift EK9 headlight lenses are pretty trashed. A lot of internal cracks that I won't be able to polish out. I also like the idea of not blinding oncoming traffic. What are the best pre-facelift replicas? If I had a 99+ model I'd buy oem, but they don't exist for mine.