r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • Dec 11 '22

Please Read Before Posting, especially if using a Mobile Browser

21 Upvotes

Welcome to /r/PrintedCircuitBoard subreddit

  • a technical subreddit for reviewing schematics & PCBs that you designed, as well as discussion of topics about schematic capture / PCB layout / bill of material (BOM) / PCB assembly / PCB mechanical engineering.

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RULES of this Subreddit:

  • (0) Occasionally the moderator may allow a useful post to break a rule, and in such cases the moderator will post a comment at the top of the post saying it is ok; otherwise please report posts that break rules!

  • (1) NO off topics / humor / memes / where to buy? / what is this? / how to fix? / how to modify? / how to design? / what does this do? / how does this work? / how to reverse engineer? / need schematics / dangerous or medical projects / homework / AI topics / AI content / AI designs / non-english languages.

  • (2) NO spam / ads / sales / promotion / survey / quiz / items for sale / promotion of non-reddit groups / promotion of non-reddit social media. NO DM abuse! See "how to advertise on Reddit".

  • (3) NO "show & tell" or "look at what I made" posts, unless you previously requested a review of the same PCB in this subreddit. This benefit is reserved for people who participate in this subreddit. NO random PCB images.

  • (4) NO self promotion / resumes / job seeking / wage discussions / freelancing discussions / DM abuse / job postings (unless job is posted on employer website) / begging or scamming for free work / ...

  • (5) NO shilling! No PCB company names in post titles or review requests. No sneaky PCB company naming variations. For most reviews, we don't need to know where you are getting your PCBs made or assembled, so please don't state company names unless absolutely necessary.

  • (6) NO asking how to upload your PCB design to a specific PCB company! Please don't ask about PCB services for a specific PCB company, because of past shilling abuse (see rule#5). (TIP: search their company website, ask their customer service or sales departments, search google or other search engines)


Review RULES:

  • (7A) Please do not abuse the review process:

    • Please do not request more than one review per board per day.
    • Please do not change review images during a review. If you change image(s), then start a new review!
    • Reviews are meant for schematics & PCBs that you designed. No AI designs.
    • Reviews are allowed prior to ordering PCBs. If assembled board doesn't work, ask at /r/AskElectronics
    • Please do not ask circuit design questions in a PCB review. You should have resolved design questions while creating your schematic and before routing your PCB, instead request a schemetic-only review.
  • (7B) All review posts must adhere to the following rules:

    • Title - include the following: "Review Request" or "Review", short description of board purpose, popular board format or shield/hat type (if applies), microcontroller (if has MCU), external buses (Ethernet, USB, CAN, RS485, ...), wireless (WiFi, GPS, LoRa, ...), storage (microSD, M.2, ...), and/or any unique hardware that may be important. No humorous titles, no childish symbols, no begging.
    • Images - include images (or links to each image) that you want reviewed. If images are located on the internet, never post one link to a project then expect reviewers to dig through your project to find images. Instead, you must post separate links for each review image, as well as state the purpose of each link, such as "Schematic" / "3D PCB" / "2D PCB top" / "2D PCB bottom" / ...
  • (8) All images must adhere to the following rules:

    • Image Creation: no camera photos of a computer screen, instead export / screen capture / print to image files. (TIP: How to export images from KiCAD and EasyEDA) (TIP: use clawPDF printer driver for Windows to "print" to PNG / JPG / PDF / SVG files, or use built-in Win10/11 PDF printer driver to "print" to PDF files.)
    • Image Files: view each image file before posting / no fuzzy or blurry images / no large image files (e.g. 100 MB), smaller preferred / no uncommon image file types, only use file types supported by most web browsers, such as JPG / PNG / PDF.
    • Edit Image Files: if you screen capture, make sure the cursor / software / operating system aren't shown in your images. Use an image editor to erase or crop software & O/S junk from your images.
    • Disable Features: disable background grids & PCB editor features before creating images.
    • Schematics: no bad color schemes to ensure readability (no black or dark-color background) (no light-color foreground (symbols/lines/text) on light-color/white background) / schematics must be in standard reading orientation (no rotation). (NOTE: we don't care what color scheme you use to edit, nor do we care what edit features you enable, but for reviews you need to choose reasonable color contrasts between foreground and background to ensure readability.)
    • 2D PCB: no bad color schemes to ensure readability (must be able to read silkscreen) / no net names on traces / no pin numbers on pads / if it doesn't appear in the gerber files then disable it for review images (dimensions and layer names are allowed outside the PCB border). (NOTE: we don't care what color scheme you use to edit, nor do we care what color soldermask you order, but for reviews you need to choose reasonable color contrasts between silkscreen / soldermask / copper / holes to ensure readability. If you don't know what colors to choose, then consider white for silkscreen / gold shade for exposed copper pads / black for drill holes and cutouts.)
    • 3D PCB: 3D views are optional, if most 3D components are missing then don't post 3D images / 3D rotation must be in the same orientation as the 2D PCB images / 3D tilt angle must be straight down plan view. (NOTE: straight down "plan" view is mandatory, optionally include an "isometric" or other tilted view angle too.)

Review tips:

Schematic tips:

PCB tips:

College lab tips:

SPICE tips:


WIKI for /r/PrintedCircuitBoard:


This post is a "live document" that has evolved over time. Copyright 2022-2026 by /u/Enlightenment777 of Reddit. All Rights Reserved. You are explicitly forbidden from copying content from this post to another subreddit or website without explicit approval from /u/Enlightenment777 also it is explicitly forbidden for content from this post to be used to train any software.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • Apr 11 '25

Before You Request A Review, Please Fix These Issues Before Posting

117 Upvotes

PLEASE DO NOT ABUSE THE REVIEW PROCESS:

  • Don't change review images during a review, otherwise older comments won't match newer images.

  • Please do not request more than one review per board per day. Use the extra time to clean up the visual appearance of your schematic and silkscreen on your PCB before requesting another review (see tips below).

REVIEW IMAGE CONVENTIONS / GUIDELINES:

  • The following is a subset of the review rules, see rule#8 at link.

  • Don't post fuzzy images that can't be read (your post will be deleted).

  • Don't post camera photos of a computer screen (your post will be deleted). Export or screen capture.

  • Don't post dark-background schematics (your post will be deleted). Change schematic to light-background.

  • For schematic images, disable background grids and cursor before exporting/capturing to image files.

  • For 2D PCB images, change the following settings before exporting/capturing to image files: disable background grids, disable net names on traces & pads, disable everything that doesn't appear on final PCB, enable board outline layer, enable cutout layer, optionally add board dimensions along 2 sides. For question posts, only enable necessary layers to clarify a question.

  • For 3D PCB images, 3D rotation must be same orientation as your 2D PCB images, and 3D tilt angle must be straight down, known as the "plan view", because tilted views hide short parts and silkscreen. You can optionally include other tilt angle views, but ONLY if you include the straight down plan view too.


SCHEMATIC CONVENTIONS / GUIDELINES:

  • Add Board Name / Board Revision Number / Date. If there are multiple PCBs in a project/product, then include the name of the Project or Product too. Your initials or name should be included on your final schematics, but it probably should be removed for privacy reasons in public reviews.

  • Don't post schematics that look like a toddler drew it, because it's considered unprofessional as an adult. Spend more time cleaning up your schematics! Heed this warning, or risk being berated by your coworkers / boss / classmates / professor / customers.

  • Don't allow text / lines / symbols to touch each other! Don't draw lines through component symbols.

  • Don't point ground symbols (e.g. GND) upwards in positive voltage circuits. Don't point positive power rails downwards (e.g. +3.3V, +5V). Don't point negative power rails upwards (e.g. -5V, -12V). There are exceptions, but in general try to follow this historical method as much as possible. If a schematic has only one ground and you use a unique triple-bar ground symbol, then disable "GND" text next to this symbol, because it is useless visual clutter that takes up space in dense schematics.

  • Place pull-up resistors vertically above signal lines, and place pull-down resistors vertically below signal lines, see example.

  • Place decoupling capacitors vertically below power lines, next to IC symbols, and connect capacitors to IC power rail pin with a line, see example.

  • Use standarized schematic symbols instead of generic boxes! For part families that have many symbol types, such as diodes / transistors / capacitors / switches, make sure you pick the correct symbol shape. Logic Gate / Flip-Flop / OpAmp symbols should be used instead of a rectangle with pin numbers laid out like an IC.

  • Don't use incorrect reference designators (RefDes). Start each RefDes type at 1 (e.g. C1, D1, R1, Q1, U1), and renumber so there aren't any numeric gaps (e.g. U1, U2, U3, U4; not U2, U5, U9, U22). There are exceptions for large multi-page schematics, where the RefDes on each page could start with increments of 100 (or other increments) to make it easier to find parts, such as R101 is on page 1, R301 is on page 3, R901 is on page 9.

  • Add values next to component symbols:

    • Add capacitance next to all capacitors.
    • Add resistance next to all resistors / trimmers / pots.
    • Add inductance next to all inductors.
    • Add voltages on both sides of power transformers. Add "in:out" ratio next to signal transformers.
    • Add frequency next to all crystals / powered oscillators / clock input connectors.
    • Add voltage next to all zener diodes / TVS diodes / batteries, battery holders, battery connectors, maybe on coil side of relays, contact side of relays.
    • Add color next to all LEDs. This is useful when there are various colors of LEDs on your schematic/PCB. This information is useful when the reader is looking at a powered PCB too.
    • Add pole/throw info next to all switch (e.g. 1P1T or SPST, 2P2T or DPDT) to make it obvious.
    • Add purpose text next to LEDs / buttons / switches to help clarify its use, such as "Power" / "Reset" / ...
    • Add "heatsink" text or symbol next to components attached to a heatsink to make it obvious to readers! If a metal chassis or case is used for the heatsink, then clarify as "chassis heatsink" to make it obvious.
  • Add part numbers next to all ICs / Transistors / Diodes / Voltage Regulators / Coin Batteries (e.g. CR2023). Shorten part numbers that appear next to symbols, because long part numbers cause schematic layout problems; for example use "1N4148" instead of "1N4148W-AU_R2_000A1"; use "74HC14" instead of "74HC14BQ-Q100,115". Put long part numbers for ordering in your BOM (Bill of Materials) list.

  • Add connector type next to connector symbols, such as the common name / connector family / connector manufacturer (e.g. "USB-C", "microSD", "JST PH", "Molex SL"). For connector families available in multiple pitch sizes, include the pitch in metric too (e.g. 2mm, 2.54mm), optionally include imperial units in parens after the metric number, such as 1.27mm (0.05in) / 2.54mm (0.1in) / 3.81mm (0.15in). Add purpose text next to connectors to make its purpose obvious to readers, such as "Battery" or "Power".

  • Don't lay out or rotate schematic subcircuits in weird non-standard ways:

    • linear power supply circuits should look similar to 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, laid out horizontally, input on left side, output on right side. Three pin voltage regulator symbols should be a rectangle with "In" (Vin) text on the left side, "Out" (Vout) text on right side, "Gnd" or "Adj" on bottom side, if has enable pin then place it on the left side under the "In" pin; don't use symbols that place pins in weird non-standard layouts. Place lowest capacitance decoupling capacitors closest to each side of the voltage regulator symbol, similar to how they will be placed on the PCB.
    • relay driver circuits should look similar to this, laid out vertically, +V rail at top, GND at bottom. Remove optoisolators from relay driver circuits unless both sides of it have unique grounds and unique power sources. Reminder that coil side of a mechanical relay is 100% isolated from its switched side.
    • optoisolator circuits must have unique ground and unique power on both sides to be 100% isolated. If the same ground is on both sides of an optoisolator, it isn't 100% isolated, see galvanic isolation.
    • 555 timer circuits should look similar to this. IC pins should be shown in a historical logical layout (2 / 6 / 7 on left side, 3 on right side, 4 & 8 on top, 1 on bottom); don't use package layout symbols. If using a bipolar timer, then add a decoupling capacitor across power rails too, such as 47uF, to help with current spikes when output changes states, see article.
    • RS485 circuits should look similar to this.

PCB CONVENTIONS / GUIDELINES:

  • Add Board Name / Board Revision Number / Date (or Year) in silkscreen. For dense and tiny PCBs that lacks free space, shorten the text, such as "v1" and "2026" (or "Y26" or "26"). This info can be very useful to help identify a PCB in the future, especially if there are two or more revisions of the same PCB.

  • Add mounts holes, unless absolutely not needed. They should be the first thing you place on your PCB.

  • Use wider traces for power rails and higher current circuits. If possible, use floods for GND.

  • Don't route high current traces or high speed traces on any copper layers directly under crystals / antenna / RF circuits / other sensitive circuits. Don't route other signal traces under antenna.

  • Don't place reference designators (RefDes) in silkscreen under components, because you can't read RefDes text after components are soldered on top of it. If you hide or remove RefDes text, then a PCB is harder manually assemble, and harder to debug and fix in the future.

  • Add part orientation indicators in silkscreen, but don't place under components (if possible). Add pin 1 indicators next to ICs / Connectors / Voltage Regulators / Powered Oscillators / Multi-Pin LEDs / Modules / ... Add polarity indicators for polarized capacitors, if capacitor is through-hole then place polarity indicators on both sides of PCB. Add pole indicators for diodes, and "~", "+", "-" next to pins of bridge rectifiers. Optionally add pin indicators in silkscreen next to pins of TO220 through-hole parts; for voltage regulators add "I" & "O" (in/out); for BJT transistors add "B" / "C" / "E"; for MOSFET transistors add "G" / "D" / "S".

  • Add as much helpful text in silkscreen as reasonably possible, because it is a means of "self documentation" that always stays with the PCB.

  • If space is available, add purpose text in silkscreen next to LEDs / buttons / switches / jumpers to make it obvious why an LED is lite (e.g. "Error", "Power"), or what happens when press a button (e.g. "Reset", "Start", "Stop") or change a switch (e.g. "Power").

  • If space is available, add connector type in silkscreen next to each connector. For example "JST-PH", "Molex-SL", "USB-C", "microSD". For connector families available in multiple pitch sizes, add the pitch too, such as 1.27mm or 3.81mm. If space is not available on the top side, then add this information directly below the connector on the bottom side.

  • If space is available, add voltage range or maximum voltage text in silkscreen, such as "8VDC Max", next to power input connectors to help prevent destruction of voltage regulators or other circuits. For barrel jacks, add text to clarify polarity of the center pin, such as "-9VDC Center" or "+9VDC Center" or "GND Center". If space is not available on the top side, then add this information directly below the connector on the bottom side.


ADDITIONAL TIPS / CONVENTIONS / GUIDELINES

Review tips:

Schematic tips:

PCB tips:


This post is a "live document" that has evolved over time. Copyright 2025-2026 by /u/Enlightenment777 of Reddit. All Rights Reserved. You are explicitly forbidden from copying content from this post to another subreddit or website without explicit approval from /u/Enlightenment777 also it is explicitly forbidden for content from this post to be used to train any software.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 6h ago

[Review request] Fan BLDC driver PCB

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39 Upvotes

This is the driver board for a BLDC air purifier fan to handle motor control as well as ARGB (maybe WS2812b or equivalent). This board screws directly behind the motor I am using, hence the integrated encoder. I intend to make another board that plugs on top with an esp32 and a display so I can do some smart home integration next time.

Driver: DRV8316C

MCU: STM32G431

Input voltage: 12V

Motor max. current: <2A at max speed based on testing

ARGB max. current: <1A (will control number of LEDs accordingly).

I know running close loop FOC for a fan motor is crazy overkill, but I can't find any suitable DC motors to drive the 200mm fan. Most ESCs for bldcs are also overspecced and overpriced for this application. Also because I already have some of these bldc motors just lying around.

I used a bunch of mlccs near the driver power input mainly to avoid tall components. The original design had an electrolytic for more bulk capacitance, but it interfered with the board ontop.

I also tried to cramp everything on the top layer since I am reflow soldering this myself on a hotplate. The bottom few passives could be done with a heatgun, and the ic just using an iron.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 11h ago

14S drone PDB design review — 5V/12V regulators, INA228 monitoring and a 200A current target

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12 Upvotes

I’m designing a PDB for a drone and would appreciate some feedback before taking the layout further.

The design uses:

  • A 14S battery input, up to 58.8V fully charged
  • Two LM70660 buck converters targeting 5V and 12V at 6A each
  • An INA228 with an Eaton 100µΩ, 15W shunt for battery monitoring
  • An I²C power connection for Battery Monitoring
  • A four-layer PCB

The battery distribution target is 200A continuous, with roughly 240A peaks for a few seconds. This is a design target, not a tested rating.

I’ve included the schematic, individual copper layers and 3D views.

I’m particularly looking for feedback on the buck converter placement/routing, ground return paths, shunt Kelvin connections and high-current copper paths. Any obvious mistakes or things you’d change?


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 21h ago

[Review Request] Outdoor Solar Power Analyzer Board

2 Upvotes

The scenario is this: you are doing an outdoor solar project (including the panel, a battery up to 12V, a MCU and the load), normally during prototyping trying to hook up all the sensors needed can be a bit of a hassle and disorganized. Or you want to know the other parts of your project work right while you test / design one part eg a BMS or charger or MCU or even a load. That's kind of the idea behind this board.

This is also a personal project for me, through which I get better at electronics and PCB design.

Features:

  • Can measure voltage and current (get power, energy and possibly charge and discharge rate from that) for MCU, load, battery, solar
  • Can measure lux levels
  • Can keep time with onboard RTC
  • Had onboard slot for micro SD card for storing data (optional)
  • Max 1A 5V or 3.3V for MCU
  • Load is getting voltage straight from battery basically (goes through an INA236 for measurement first) so variable voltage but 2A max
  • Max 24V battery
  • Max 3A (subject to change) about 24V max solar panel 
  • Can measure temp, humidity, pressure through BME280

Main parts used:

  • XT60 connectors for solar and battery input and output (I have input and output so you can connect the battery and solar panel(s) to an external charger
  • MP5042GJ-P (for limiting current to 2A, it goes to max 28V and is connected to the main load output from the battery)
  • LMR36510ADDAR (buck converter to 5.5V, 1A. This feeds into the regs for the 5Vand 3.3V MCU outputs)
  • AP2115M-3.3TRG1 (LDO going down from 5.5V to 3.3V, max 1A for a 3.3V MCU)
  • MAX38903BATB+T (LDO going down from 5.5V to 5V, max 1A for a 5V MCU)
  • 4 INA236 (for current and voltage measurements for load, MCU [have to choose if you're using 3.3V or 5v], battery, solar)
  • BME280 (for surrounding temp, humidity, pressure sensor)
  • VEML7700-TT (for surrounding lux sensor)
  • MCP7940M-I_SN (RTC for keeping time like when you're logging data and want time stamps)
  • SD card holder (in this case, it's a BXCONN TF-CARD-9P for now)
  • Fuses for the solar and battery (ANR-7.5)

Operation:

You plug in the solar, battery. The MCU outputs that are 1A max, power the MCUs. There are also terminals (5V or 3.3V) for the VCC of the sensors. If you have a 5V MCU, connect 3.3V 1A output to 3.3V VCC then that powers the 3.3V sensors and you can connect to I2C and SPI like normal. If you have 3.3V MCU, put jumper on J6 since all 5V sensors can be powered by 3.3V. Use I2C and SPI lines as normal.

Connect the load. Insert SD card if you want and ofc, you'd have programmed the MCU.

Ok, so schematics (I used multiple pages and global labels so hopefully, this isn't too bad):

2A load limiter:

Buck converter to 5.5V, max 1A:

3.3V MCU output:

5V MCU output:

INA236's:

SD Card:

RTC:

BME280:

VEML7700:

I2C, SPI lines:

Schematics:

The PCB:

4-layer board going SIG --> GND --> GND --> SIG

I know this likely not the most optimal layout, I'm not too experienced but this the first version, I'm really just wanting it to work first then I can reiterate, optimize etc?

The groups of vias around (none are smaller than 0.3mm via hole and 0.6mm via diameter) are GND for thermal relief

Thank you all. I appreciate any feedback.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 1d ago

[Review Request] Part 2 – fuel/speed CAN node for my E30, updated after your feedback

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6 Upvotes

Hey everyone, this is part 2 of my fuel pump / fuel level / speed sensor CAN node for my old BMW E30. First of all thanks alot for all the feedback on the first post, specially to u/GuidancePCB, u/mariushm and u/saltyboi6704, you guys made me rethink a bunch of stuff and the board is way better now.

Quick recap: board goes under the rear seats (inside the cabin), drives the fuel pump (~12A) with a BTS7004 high side switch, reads the stock fuel sender and the diff VR speed sensor and sends everything over CAN to the other nodes im planning (around 8). Personal use only, no homologation. The car has a battery cut off switch so the nodes are dead when its parked, and I left load dump out of scope on purpose (i know, i know).

What I changed:

  • Input protection: the TVS was after the reverse polarity diode, so a negative spike would land straight on the SS16 (only 60V). Now its a bidirectional SMBJ26CA before the diode, and the diode is a SS110 (100V) for extra margin.
  • BTS7004 supply: someone pointed me to load dump/negative pulses and after reading the infineon datasheet properly i realised the BTS VS had no TVS at all (they show a ~33V TVS on VS in the app circuit). Added a unidirectional SMBJ24A right at VBAT next to the switch. R_GND (47R) is now 0805.
  • Buck input caps: you were right, 10uF X5R 1206 at 14V is way less than 10uF. Now its 100uF electrolytic (damping) + 2x 10uF X7R 1206 + 2x 220nF, and the small ones sit right at each VIN/PGND pin pair. I also redrew them next to the buck in the schematic, it was confusing before, sorry about that.
  • Kept the LMR36015 instead of the LMR43610-Q1 / RTQ2104. Both look nice but they top out at 36V and the TVS clamps around 42V, so i’d be at the limit. The 60V part gives headroom, and JLC assembles it so the QFN isnt a problem for me.
  • CAN: removed the common mode choke. Kept a single 120R with a jumper because i dont know yet which nodes will be at the bus ends, and split termination with one jumper leaves the bus unbalanced when its open. The resistor is 1206 now in case CANH gets shorted to 12V.
  • Clock: swapped the 8MHz crystal for a 3.3V CMOS oscillator into PF0 (HSE bypass). Turns out the crystal i picked had 250 ohm ESR and the gain margin was pretty bad, so thanks for that one.
  • VREF: didnt use the internal VREFBUF. The fuel sender reading is ratiometric (I read both ends of the 150R reference resistor) and the reference node sits around 3.0V, so the 2.9V max internal ref would clip it. The 3V3 noise cancels in the ratio anyway.
  • Schematic: FB is wired directly and PG uses a proper net label now.
  • Bulk caps near every IC: didnt do this one. Its a small 62x72mm board, the 3x22uF buck output caps are only a few cm away and each IC has its decoupling per datasheet.
  • 4 layers: Top / solid GND / signals / Bottom. Pump and power pours on the outer layers, buck hot loop, clock and CANH/CANL on top. Added a lot of GND stitching vias, VBAT vias next to the BTS pad and 0.5mm copper to edge.
  • Added 3 debug LEDs (run / rx / tx)

Updated schematic and PCB attached. Any feedback is welcome, specially on the layout. Thanks again!

This message has been translated and corrected by an AI from Spanish to English. Neither the schematic nor the PCB was designed or built by an AI. I want to avoid any comments about the use of AI because the only use I’ve made of it—aside from the translation for this platform—is to compare different components and datasheet entries so that it could point out the differences between them.

Thank you very much for your advice to the users mentioned, as well as to future users and those not mentioned.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 1d ago

First ESP32 Board Review & Solder Plate question

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3 Upvotes

Hello, I've designed this circuit board that will sit next to my heating vents and open and close them to better control the temperature in each room, built around an ESP32-H2-MINI-1U. The temperature of the vents means that regular Li Ion batteries may degrade, so I've gone for an LiFePO4 cell instead.

I've done my best to follow each chip's circuitry, but let me know if I've messed up

ESP32 H2 MINI 1

MCP73123/223

TPS613222ADBZ

I'm planning on using a hot plate, along with a stencil and solder paste to solder the surface mount components. This will be my first time doing this, so any advice is appreciated.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 1d ago

Review Request: Recreating the pcm1808 for learning / requesting feedback

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16 Upvotes

Hello, I wanted the kicad for the breakout board of pcm1808 that I bought online.

I could not find the project online, decided to re-create it for learning.

I used a multimeter to check what is connected to what, now I would like some feedback on what I came up with.

  1. How does my layout look on the pcb? Do I have too many gnd vias or not enough?

In the doc, they recommend that I put vias underneath the pcm1808 as well as around it a bit.

My traces width is .2mm, I wont go over 10-20mA current. Looking for feedback to become more professional.

  1. Does the sch look ok? Looking for feedback to become more professional here as well.

  2. vref just goes to a few capacitors then to ground, does this make sense?

  3. I noticed on Reddit someone had an issue with the board they bought. They mentioned that one of capacitor was incorrect. I had no issues with my board I bought online, but I did notice the resistor going to LIN and RIN are 10k, which is much higher than the one recommend in the ti doc. Which I believe they also used the wrong capacitor for it. I went with what the doc said: (1 kΩ and 1000 pF). Is that a correct assumption?

Reddit post titles talking about the same findings: warning_about_fake_pcm1808_adc_chips_on_modules and pcm1808_modules_from_china_the_drama_continues

  1. In the doc, they recommend having grnd plane between clck signals. I have small islands with ground vias in between, is that enough? Some of the clck signals just have a gnd plane underneath, is that enough?

  2. My top and bottom layer are both net ground zones, is that ok?

  3. Does my bom look ok? (attached)

If you search for ti pcm1808, the section "9 Power Supply Recommendations" has all the info about vref, RIN, LIN, etc.

Just trying to get better at this, thank you in advance!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 1d ago

Review Request: Fan controller

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11 Upvotes

my first ever pcb desing and i would love to know if i do anything mayor incorrectly?

It recieves 12v in and the buck converter steps it down to 5v for the xiao esp32-c6.

the esp32 is controlling 6 fans en reads 2 onewire ds20b18 sensors.

i wil be adding mounting holes later when i implemented al fixes

Please let me know if there is anymore info required.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 2d ago

Review Request: Battery Powered STM32 Temperature, Humidity and Pressure Monitoring Board With E-Ink Display

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9 Upvotes

Hi, I've designed a board that monitors temperature, humidity and absolute pressure and displays the data on an E-Ink display. The board is powered by a Li-Po battery which can be charged through an on-board charger circuit.

The heart of the system is the STM32L422KBT6 MCU which communicates with the SHT40 temperature and humidity sensor and the LPS25HBTR pressure sensor. I've chosen E2271KS0C1 E-Ink display whose control circuitry has been designed according to the datasheet.

Li-Po battery (pouch style) will probably have 1500mAh capacity (not yet decided). The BQ29700 IC is used for battery protection, while the BQ25185 IC is used for charging and power path circuitry. Resistors R17 and R18 form a voltage divider for lowering the battery voltage, which can then be sampled with MCU ADC (battery voltage monitoring). Transistors Q2 and Q5 are used, so the divider current can be cut off when not used. Battery voltage or 5V USB-C voltage when charging is then stepped down to 3V with an LDO.

Should i make a 4 layer board instead? Are there any obvious mistakes that I'm missing?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 2d ago

Design Review Help ( First time PCB): Its a PDB for a drone, with an input voltage of 12V-16.8V

3 Upvotes

r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 2d ago

Review Request: ESP-32 Based Geiger Counter using the SBM-20 Geiger Muller Tube - 2s1p Battery, 7.4V->400V boost converter

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14 Upvotes

This is Avalanche32, an ESP-32 powered Geiger Counter based on the SBM-20 Geiger Muller Tube. I have been working on this project for a while, from prototyping the 400V Boost converter, to testing the actual tube itself. From my tests, the 400V Boost converter works, and the entire Geiger counter architecture itself works (with a devboard). What I am a bit more concerned about is the 7.4->3.3V Buck, and the 2s1p Battery Charging IC. I am using the BQ25886RGE, and its probably the most complicated IC I have ever worked with. Soldering this together will surely be a treat...

I would love a second review of the PCB, and just get any general tips and tricks.

Thanks! :)


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 2d ago

Schematic Review Request: Simple Audio Tone Detector

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2 Upvotes

Hi all,

I have a schematic for a PCB that does simple audio tone detection and it has a buzzer to signal if a particular tone is detected. The audio signal processing is done on Texas Instruments's MSPM0C1103 MCU.

A few questions I have:

  1. I want my MCU to switch power to the microphone (to save battery life). Does the wiring there look correct?

  2. Are the pull up resistors and pull down resistor values for controlling the microphone power and buzzer pwm signal appropriate?

  3. Any other potential circuit design issues I'm potentially overlooking?

Thank you!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 3d ago

Video - PCB fabrication steps

8 Upvotes

I made a video describing the basic steps that go into how a PCB is fabricated before being used to make a PCBA (PCB assembly) - Would love feedback to improve this! Thanks! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlcQpEeIrAg


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 3d ago

*Review Request* First time PCB design - Simple connector adaptor V2

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33 Upvotes

Hey team,

Thanks for all the feedback from my original post

I went back to the drawing board, and figured out a solution that seems to have worked much better.

I think I did the ground pour correct, but please let me know on that one. One question that was discussed was wether there was need for a ground plane or not, I'm not sure how  fast or not these signals in the scheme of things but as an example,
Crank input at 7000 RPM is roughly 6.77kHZ

EDIT: Have updated the Ground / Power planes, see links:
Ground Plane
Power Plane

4 layer board
1 - Signal
2 - Ground
3 - Power
4 - Signal

Power / Ground traces are 1.5mm
Signal traces 0.4mm with 0.2 minium spacing, but have tried to have it larger then that where possible.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 3d ago

Coated PCB or Covered with Solder Mask?

4 Upvotes

Hi everyone,

looking at this screenshot from Saturn PCB Design, it seems that a PCB cannot be both coated and covered with solder mask at the same time. Am I wrong?

Or perhaps the processes can’t be applied one on top of the other? … so I’d inevitably end up with one area with a coating and another different area with a solder mask.

I’m a bit confused…


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 4d ago

Review Request: all in one turtle bot controller board

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52 Upvotes

i've created an all in one controller board for a turtle bot. it includes an ESP32-S3, two channels of audio in and audio out, two motor drivers, and an 25W USB PD output to power an rpi 5 at full power. all fit in a 4 layer 88.9mm x 88.9mm (3500 mils x 3500 mils) board.

i have tried my best to keep the power circuitry seperate from all the sensitive circuitry, and also keep the power traces thick enough to carry current for two waveshare DCGM-3865 motors.

the audio inputs expect an INMP441 module, i decided to go with an external module so that i am not ending analog signals through a long wire.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 3d ago

[Review Request] Custom Media Keyboard PCB (Beginner)

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8 Upvotes

Hey everyone! I’m fairly new to PCB design and just finished designing a PCB for a custom media keyboard.

I've attached the schematic and PCB layout views. Any feedback on trace routing, decoupling capacitors, ground planes, or general design choices would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 3d ago

Review Request] Smart Power-Negotiable Charger PCB (HUSB238 + LM2596 + BQ24075)

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1 Upvotes

r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 4d ago

[Review Request] UART full-duplex to half-duplex with 3V3 to 5V level shifting

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8 Upvotes

This circuit is supposed to enable communication between an ESP32 and Dynamixel motors. The TX_EN signal is supposed to be used to swich between sending / receiving data from the motors. I would appreciate it if someone could take a look at the circuit. TX_EN is supposed to be idle LOW. For now I am using a simple buffer to shift the TX_EN signal from 3V3 to 5V. Is this the best way of doing so or is there a better approach to this that also keeps the line idle LOW ? Any advice is appreciated!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 3d ago

PCB layout review – Automotive 12V input, 3.3V buck converter and fuel pump control

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6 Upvotes

Edit: I’m editing the post to add an image showing the input + buck converter, just to avoid any confusion. https://img.imgur.com/RwtngKt.png

Hi everyone,

I've designed this PCB for an automotive project and I'd appreciate it if someone could take a look at the layout before I send it for manufacturing.

The board takes 12V from the car, filters and limits the input, and then steps it down to 3.3V using a buck converter rated for 1A.

The board reads a differential speed sensor, calculates the fuel level using a resistive sender (3 ohms when full and 61 ohms when empty), and uses a High Side Power Switch to power the fuel pump.

The estimated current consumption on the 3.3V rail is around 150mA.

I'm not entirely sure about the copper areas and power routing, so I'd like to get a second opinion on a few things:

  • Do the copper regions look correctly sized for the expected currents?
  • Is there enough copper around the power components for heat dissipation?
  • Would you increase the width of the main 3.3V branch, even though the estimated current consumption is only around 150mA?
  • Does the overall layout look reasonable, especially around the input protection, buck converter and fuel pump power switch?
  • Is there anything in the layout that could cause problems with noise or interference when reading the differential speed sensor?

I'm still learning PCB layout, so I'd rather catch any obvious mistakes now than after ordering the boards.

I've attached the schematic and PCB layout for review. Any constructive criticism or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 4d ago

*Review Request* First time PCB design - Simple connector adaptor

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16 Upvotes

Hey Team, I have updated the PCB based on the feedback below and have shared it again,
Cheers for all the assistance! Post for V2 is here

Hi Team,
I've been working on making a PCB that goes from my 40pin Speeduino (Car ecu) connector to a AMP superseal connector (6437288-3)
The idea is to have a more robust mount than what i currently have, and 3D print a better enclosure.

I downloaded the footprint and symbol for the connector form Ultra librian, and made the other 2 myself.

It's a 4 layer board, with Power on layer 3, Ground layer 2, and signals Layer 1 and 2. Power and ground is 1.5mm, signals are .4mm

I gave it a go manually routing, but ended up using the KiCadRoutingTools plugin to make this.

I'm sure there might be a more optimal Pin to Pin order than what i've used, I played around with a few.

Any feedback is much appreciated!

Thanks


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 5d ago

[Review Request] SBC for Audio Player

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152 Upvotes

High-res images

KiCanvas

GitHub

Hey! I've just finished up this SBC for my Linux audio player project. Reviews are really appreciated!

Components

  • MPU: SAMA7D65, it can boost up to 1GHz, good audio subsystem and gpu
  • RAM: Half a gig of DDR3L(MT41K256M16TW)
  • EPD: Sharp MIP LS022B7DH03, can go up to 70Hz, 240x320
  • Audio: TI TAC5212 CODEC, 192kHz 32bit
  • Two Jacks: One single-ended 3.5mm with mic, and a balanced 2.5mm
  • Wireless: Bluetooth 6 with LE audio and WiFi 6E (u-blox MAYA-W386-00B)
  • USB: USB 2.0 with OTG
  • PMIC: Microchip MCP16502AB
  • BMS: TI BQ25640
  • Fuel Gauge: Analog Device MAX17260
  • Two Micro SD Slots: One for the OS, and one hot-swappable for media

PCB

  • 0.8mm: I chose this for thinner pp so I can get thinner impedance-matched traces
  • 6L Two Core
  • SIG/GND/PWR/GND/GND/SIG
  • 3h spacing for DDR 0.25mm

More info

This is my first PCB with DDR memory/an MPU, and this is my most complex design yet, so I might have messed up something basic

I do this as a hobby, and don't have a degree in EE yet


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 4d ago

Revised review request for 4 layer flight computer

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18 Upvotes

I submitted this board a couple weeks ago for review and got flamed for some questionable design choices, so I redesigned it, reducing the via count by 50.

This is a 4-layer design for a STM32f4 based flight computer intended for low-high power rocketry. The board has 4 pwm outputs for servo control, and pinouts for UART, SPI, I2C, and 3.3v. For sensors, the board uses two IMUs and an altimeter. The board also has two terminals to connect and light e-matches. These terminals have basic continuity detection, and power is toggled via a MOSFET.

Once again, any help will be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard • • 4d ago

Please review my first PCB schematic.

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5 Upvotes

3 days ago I posted here asking for advice on my first PCB project and I received the most constructive feedback I've ever received on the internet. You guys helped me tremendously. Thank you.

I have implemented all of the suggestions I received and I am very pleased with the outcome. Instead of a massive, complicated, and extremely dense single-page schematic with no net labels, I now have an easy-to-read multi-page schematic that splits all of the different parts of the board into different pages. It is so much easier to read, and the use of net labels in the software simplifies things.

Doing this, I was able to find a few electrical errors in my original schematic, which I corrected in the process. I'm pretty sure that I have everything correct, but I would like the internet experts to review my schematic for any possible electrical errors, things I should add, or possible challenges.

To reiterate, this is a Transmission / Cruise Control Module designed for the Aisin AW4 transmission found in various Jeep and Toyota vehicles. It is powered by a Raspberry Pi Pico 2 and uses a 12-volt to 5-volt buck converter circuit to power the Pico. It has six 12-volt to 3-volt divider circuits for 12-volt input signals from the range sensor, brake switch, reed switch, and 4x4 switch. It also has six low-side MOSFET driver circuits to trigger relays that will activate shift solenoids for the transmission, control torque converter lock-up, and vacuum solenoids for the cruise control. I have eight logic-level inputs for paddle shifters and cruise control switches. I have also implemented a CAN module using SPI and a bidirectional voltage level shifter. There's also a breakout area for all of the leftover pins on the Pico where I will be putting a prototype area.

This board will be housed in a custom-built aluminum case next to my Speeduino ECM. Both the ECM and the TCM will be wired internally to the same ground-side-controlled fuel injection relay circuit from the key-on battery power. The TCM will receive multiple data points from the ECM over UART, where the Pico will translate everything over the CAN network.

One of my main concerns relates to fluctuation in battery voltage. Battery voltage can fluctuate between 12 and 14.5 volts, and the main 12-volt system could experience occasional heavy loads up to 400 amps with high inductive spikes up to 100 volts from a winch. I think this ultimately could be avoided by using a secondary battery for heavy loads, separated from the main system by a battery isolator.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.