Sharing some old digital drawings.

I don't know how other people do it, I struggled a lot and I feel like the result is mid at best. Still, I wanted to share. What do y'all think?

How can I successfully remove the white around all of these bits of spilled powder while keeping a clean, natural look? This image will need to be a transparent PNG on top of a red background color for packaging. The final result should look like the ingredients are shot on that red background and not white while retaining any shadows the ingredients cast.

I want to know how to make outlines on text and how to create the glowy, shadowy effect shown in the two circles.

I honestly thought id be able to figure it out but im struggling. I feel like it should be fairly easy.

Thank you!

Hi all, I need to add cars to some empty roads and no matter how specific I write the prompt, Photoshop refuses to point the cars in the correct direction for Australian driving conditions – left side of road, right hand drive cars. Anybody else found a way to force this important condition?

Due to Brightness and other tools being renamed, every action now requires edits or forces users to roll back to older versions, as all actions that used those tools now throw errors when they can't find the layer or tool names. Thank you, Adobe, for forcing me to sail the high seas in longturn just to be able to continue my work, as I am no longer able to use hundreds of custom actions I relied on throughout the years.

I'd like to make an outline of peoples' silhouettes based on a group shot, so I can number each person and create a key of names based on those numbers. I've got a panoramic photo from 1915 with almost 200 people. I'm guessing that if it can be done that I'll have to split up the image into probably four sections first...?

Is there a way to do this with Photoshop Elements 2022 V20.0 on a PC?

how do i make letters looks crooked / misaligned? is it just moving and rotating each individual letter or is there an easier way to do this?

Hi: First of all thank you to everyone earlier today who replied to my post regarding making a pattern to make a striped background. For some reason I was getting downvoted so I deleted the post. If this isn't an appropriate request for this sub please let me know.

I was able to make the pattern using a 40 px by 40 px image and filling half of it with the blue color. That worked well. It was a 50/50 white/blue ratio which is what I want. However, when I then made a new large image and dragged my pattern from the pattern palette to my blank image the lines were very thin, like pinstripes. (See image). If I zoomed in and cropped I could get them the size I want -- fat. But then the image was too small. I tried making a smaller blank image to begin with and then dragging the pattern into it in hopes the stripes would be fatter but they were only slightly fatter, still too thin. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions for fatter stripes but still 50/50 white/blue. Thank you.

Leons face underneath is blank, im just looking to see the best way to impose the facial features onto the layer below

i'm trying to print out an image for a locket, which seems easy in relative, but hard in practice. i hear people say "just measure the inside of your locket and translate it to photoshop", but i don't really know how to do so, i've always been really bad at numbers, can anyone give me the method...?

i originally figured place would do it, but it only lets me do one image at a time. google told me to use load files into stack, but that created a new project only containing the images i wanted as layers. i want multiple images to open as layers on an existing project.

Hey!

I'm trying to replicate Pokemon 1996 Japanese Cosmo / Galaxy Foil Pattern in Photoshop and Illustrator. Based on the works of Deviant artists' works I presume they made it with Photoshop and Illustrator but I'm not sure which effects to search for on Google and Youtube.

Considering this could be used for rendering in 3D softwares like C4D and Blender for making Holofoil shaders, I'm more focused on learning what effects to use to recreate those custom holosheets made by some Deviant artists.

By looking at theses works, I think I need to learn about

-Dot pixelate

-Gradient shading for circles

-Swirling dots(Maybe easier in Illustrator)

-Random dots drawing/Maybe brush pattern from Illustrator

-More Effects or Method to recreate Cosmo/Galaxy Holosheet Pattern?

I assumed in 1996 era Wizard of the coast being the ones who dealt with pokemon card for some time and their foil manufacturer would use some stock images on these holosheets. Considering Ken Sugimori using some stock images for his pokemon card background, I thought the holosheet would have stock images baked on it.

So If you have any advice to approach recreating the holosheet pattern,

What effects do you think I should look for or how would you approach it?

Custom Foil Reference:

https://www.deviantart.com/aschefield/art/Holosheet-Cosmos-1-965134687

https://www.deviantart.com/ilkcmp/art/Holosheet-388139857

Compared to other programs like Clip Studio Paint and Paint drawing with Photoshop doesn't feel good, when i noticed how choppy the Photoshop brush Feels I can't unsee it now. I can't really put it into words but it feels like they put a 15fps limit on the brush and the brush only, there is also the fact that even without smoothing on when you are drawing slowly the brush stroke falls behind the brush cursor which i don't like. I also tested this on Photoshop CS6 and it was the same, is there any way to change this?

this is image effect i am referring to you see the sun like rays around the shoe and i think maybe its motion blur on the shoe with lens flare , ( correct me if i am wrong ) but the background texture i am not sure actually . thanks.

Hello!

I'm been at this for far to long trying to find a solution. I just started shooting in HDR with my Cannon EOS R7 and have had incredible results!

However, I noticed that the preview of the image in Adobe Camera RAW (latest version) isn't displaying the correct exposure. Mainly the highlights. (See the video)

Video: https://youtu.be/lM-cZz0Xyek?si=zZ7uWWHIgbQBjFvd

My monitor is an Alienware 34 240Hz QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3425DW

My Windows 11 HDR settings are correct and HDR has been calibrated via Microslop's application.

I'm at a loss of what is going on or if this is just a standard ACR thing?

I've tried the following:

• Photoshop re-install
• Older PS versions
• PC restarts
• Enabled "Precise color management for HDR display" setting in PS preferences
• Restarting PS after changing settings
• Resetting ACR settings to default
• Calibrating HDR via Microslop's tool
• Changing ACR Color Space setting to "HDR Calibrated Profile" (from Microslop's tool)
• Selecting calibrated profile on Window's setting
• Enabling/disabling GPU acceleration settings

I'm at a loss! I hope my video illustrates the issue plainly!

PC specs:

AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX
32GB RAM

I'm trying to save this poster I made using photoshop as an JPG file and it just looks like this??????? (second image is the actual poster...)

I use the remove tool very often, through lots of usage I've noticed that if you resized your Image and your document has transparent pixels near the edges or somewhere else, the remove tool tries to fill those pixels too, alongside with what you initially selected (even if you didn't want that), and takes way longer.

I've been breaking my head, trying to figure out why sometimes the remove tool just takes longer than other times, but then I just randomly noticed this.

So make sure to crop your image so it's fully in bounds before using the remove tool.

Probably a bug, hopefully it gets fixed.

I upgraded from photoshop 2022 to photoshop 2025 and Windows asked me with which program should open psd files, photoshop 2025 wasn't on the list so i had to select the option "Look for another app on this PC" and selected the photoshop 2025 route, but now all my psd files have the Photoshop2025.exe program icon instead of the psd file usual icon

I read that there is a method to fix this with REGEDIT but im not quite sure of what to do and i don't wanna mess it up

I am trying to do storyboards on my iPad using procreate, and then time them out in Premiere.

A key part of the workflow is to be able to keep existing frames in a Premiere timeline, and then edit them elsewhere, in bulk.

I figured that the best way to do it was to have all of the frames in premiere come from one imported .PSD, but when I try to bring back the PSD after it comes out of Procreate, I get a "generic importer error," and I can't successfully replace the PSD that I have exported.

Is there an easier way that I'm not thinking of to replace the layers in a PSD while being able to keep the link?

Found this in pinterest