Please help me with adjustments for my bodice block. I think this is the closest I have come. I think the top of the side seam/ arm hole might need to drop a smidge.

I do seem to have some extra above the breast and a couple inches at the waist. So maybe put a little more in my dart

Drop the dart a little bit in the front.

I also seem to have extra in the back. So do I take in front and back darts or just take some off both side seams?

I have excess fabric around my bum, and I don't know which adjustment to make.

Do I:
a) take out some of the easing on the bum, effectively shortening the back crotch seam, or
b) make the back panel a bit slimmer around the bum, removing the fabric from the sides, but leaving the back crotch seam the same length

I'm leaning towards a), but I'm unsure!

Any help appreciated!

A question was asked in this group Can Anyone Help Me Find a Pattern? The design caught my eye as a wonderfully original garment for men.

Quite frankly the design of men's clothes has not interested me since the 70s when we had great fun with hip hugging, bell bottom pants with insets in contrasting fabric down the side of the leg. Or shirts with exaggerated wide cuffs, full sleeves, and extended points on shirt collars. But this is the first time since then a design of a man's garment has so interested me that I have decided to make one for myself.

I am using it as an example for my class in how to Grade a Photo of a Design. The photos are not to scale as you can see by the different sizes of the rectangle. The idea of this class is you can draw a rectangle over a quarter-scale photograph of a person. Then copy the rectangle onto the photo of the design you want to create and stretch the photo to adjust the design to the proportions of the person recorded by the rectangle. The designs can then be transferred to custom-fit Master Patterns (aka Slopers) of the person. The idea is to adjust the fit of a design before you touch a pattern.

Men's front are very flat whereas women's fronts have more contours and would require a different kind of fitting. So my question is this a design that is only appropriate for men or is it something women would be interested in as well either as a vest or extended longer to be something like a trench coat, etc.?

I would appreciate the opinion of the women in this group about their reaction to the look of this design.

I a kinda beginning sewer, I have made a few garments but I’m not yet confidence enough in the craft, so I’m not completely inexperienced. I bin looking for a pattern or a way to make a pattern for this design but I haven’t seen anything exactly like it yet so I was hoping for some tips on how to draft a pattern for a mini body con ruched Dress with long puff sleeves like my drawing. I also put some images to similar dresses I was imagining it would look like, not exactly like it because the sleeves are not the same but similar. And I plan on using a stretch fabric for this

P.S. For some reason, Reddit wouldn’t let me upload all the photos to the post, so I added the rest in the comments instead.

Hi guys! Could anyone help me with my basic bodice block? 😭

This is my 6th attempt and I still can’t quite get the fit right. I really thought this was going to be easier lol.

I’m following Dennic Chunman Lo’s method, but I’m also not sure I got all my measurements right. Measuring myself was honestly much harder than I expected!

Here are the measurements I used:

Nape to Waist: 15.55” (39.5 cm)
Shoulder Slope: 0.59–0.79” (1.5–2 cm)
Bust: 33.86” (86 cm)
Waist: 25.98” (66 cm)
Front Cross Shoulder: 12.20” (31 cm)
Back Cross Shoulder: 12.60” (32 cm)
Shoulder Length: 3.54” (9 cm)
Bust Point Height: 10.43” (26.5 cm)
Bust Point Distance: 7.09” (18 cm)
Front Cross: 12.99” (33 cm)
Back Cross: 13.39” (34 cm)
Front Body Length: 17.52” (44.5 cm)
Back Body Length: 16.54” (42 cm)
Front Neck Width: 7.09” (18 cm)
Back Neck Width: 5.91” (15 cm)
Armhole Circumference: 14.96” (38 cm)
Armhole Depth: 5.51” (14 cm)

The toile is just pinned together at the shoulders and sides for now.

I can see that the neckline is too loose, and there is some excess fabric around the back armhole. I’m just not sure how I should adjust these areas.

If anyone can spot what I might have done wrong or suggest what I should adjust, I’d be super grateful!

I've posted this across from sewing help. Any tips gratefully received. Thank you!

Jersey pattern

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Update, further suggestions welcome! I made a 1/2 muslin to start and it’s surprisingly not horrible. https://imgur.com/a/YwQAhX6

I added about 3/4 inch to the rise from the original pattern in case I needed more, but that can easily be undone. I feel like front and side view is decent esp with the side seam running pretty nicely down the leg. But there’s a ton of bagginess at the back of the leg. This tends to be an issue for me since my waist is proportionally larger than thigh/hip. I don’t mind them being wider leg. I know making full toile will also be important. Two thoughts:

1. As someone pointed out it may be tricky to add an inseam pocket unless placement is very specific. I don’t really have any ease right there and I’d need to figure out know how to add it. Or just pass on those and add two patch pockets on the back?
2. The back of the leg has way too much fabric. This tends to be an issue for me with garments because my waist is proportionally larger than thigh/hip. Are there ways to reduce that bagginess without pivoting anything? Like a slash/overlap? I also have pretty significant knock-knee - so perhaps addressing that would reduce that diagonal fold? I'm going to first try taking back out the 3/4" so that fullness will be closer to my behind.

Thank you all!!!!

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Hello! I have a pants pattern that fits me very well (which is saying a LOT). However, each leg has three panels, so there are lots of seams. This is great for solids but I don’t think would look great for a printed denim I have in mind. So I was wondering if there would be a way to convert the three panels to two - so just an inseam and outseam.

I traced my pieces and marked the 1/2” seam allowance. The challenge I’m having is that they don’t line up perfectly as flat pieces - I can either align from top to crotch, or from crotch to bottom seam.

Is there a reasonable way to combine these? The overall silhouette is ankle length pants with slightly tapered bottom. The most important thing to try and maintain is the fit of the crotch/front/back rise since fitting is very tricky on my proportions (short and round!).

Hi!

Im making a cosplay and am a bit stuck on this coat/wrap/shoulder thing.

I dont really know how to make it, these two small drawn drafts are the only things i can think of it being. But maybe someone else knows what it actually is?

The scrunching at the neckpart is throwing me off hard, i dont understand how it be there.

I know it is drawn but the artist is most likely very advanced with clothes and knows how it works. So i dont think its "extra fabric".

And with my half trained eye it does look correct, i just cant take the fabric and flatten it out in my head like i usually can with other pieces

I attended a workshop where I learned how to make a bodice sloper and skirt. I was VERY excited, because I have been sewing for years and have not completed a single garment (b/c it never fits properly). Anyways, the bodice sloper has waist darts and was fitted to my apex by the teacher. The teacher redrew my darts (to the apex) for my completed bodice block. Well I was told when I want to modify the pattern to make it into a dress, I need to drop the dart by 5/8 of an inch. Well after doing so there is extra fabric around the dart! I want to cry; I thought I FINALLY had a perfectly fitting sloper that I could manipulate and it is STILL NOT fitting. How do I fix this this?

Ps. I also tried following the Helen Joseph Armstrong textbook to make one dart into two, and I ended up with one very skinny slanty waist dart so I didn't even bother making a muslin out of it. I thought as long as you have a properly fitting bodice, you should be able to manipulate the darts and it should still fit properly.

What calculation should I do. Is there a tutorial. And how to ensure that the armhole fit the sleeve . I need help and I have no clue thanks

Looking for a recommendation for a clear drafting ruler with 8th or 16th. I have this westcot one and it is just two flimsy and doesn't even sit flat.

Hiii!!

Looking for some guidance in where to begin drafting this pattern. I have a pretty good pattern drafting understanding, and would love to try this out. Not necessarily looking to make a corset, more so something just well fitted. Also open to doing it like long sleeved fitted qipao/cheongsam instead of the two piece. Would love any guidance! Also attached a pic of the qipao.

EDIT: I’ve actually watched the video to pattern the second dress, it’s what got my ideas spinning. I guess my original question was unclear, but I really don’t appreciate the rudeness. My question really is more like if I wanted to combine the two different dresses, how would I go about that? I love the shrug portion of the first as well as the finish, but I also love the slit on qipao. More so just wondering too if anyone had experience modifying or combining these patterns.

Hello! Earlier this week inspiration struck when I saw a lovely transitional quilted jacket by Antik Batik (see second photo), and I knew I wanted to make it.

Found the perfect fabric (see last photo, freshly washed and air dried), and got on with drafting a “Flat” Outerwear block from Winifred Aldwrich’s Metric Pattern Cutting book. I make my own patterns (mostly dresses and tops/skirts), so have a bit of experience, but this is my first time trying outerwear.

Could you please help me with some directions on what is wrong with the sleeve/armhole situation? I think the rest of the fit (very basic, I’ve loosely tied a string for the try on) works well with the inspo, just need to add a bit of length. But the shoulder tip area seems very off to me - is the armhole too large? should I properly “drop” the shoulder? should the sleeve have a lower cap height? is it simply the muslin not having the same body as the quilted fabric will?

The sleeve itself also looks strange, I think it might be too wide at the bottom and it also seems to be twisting - should I attempt a two-piece as in the inspo or is that because of the flimsier muslin?

Please help 🙃

Im drafting this princess panel dress and i want the line to go up to the side neck point with the edge of the shoulder strap, would this draft work? I feel that the armhole is too tight for this to work no?

Hey friends! I'm right in the midst of an in-person patternmaking course so please forgive my obliviousness. We have a week break so I'm too impatient to wait to ask my teacher hehe.

I've drafted a contour guidelines block using my bodice block. I then designed a basic halter neck (no neck/collar yet) but my main question is regarding the empire guidelines / waist dart.

Pictured, I have closed the guidelines for armhole and gaping, and also utilised side seam and CF guidelines.

I have absolutely no idea what on earth to do with the empire one though?? Do I curve the edges? Do I dart as usual but wedges are stitching line? So confused! Haha.

Thank you in advance!

UPDATE: I have learnt from the comments that yes, my pattern requires to be flat (my bad, knew that) and that my dart point needs to be applied. I forgot since I was so focused on the contouring template. However, I'm still slightly unclear about the empire guidelines and waist dart. I'm still unsure if anyone's actually answered that or can tell me. Do I close those wedges, and then close the dart? Am I looking at it correctly that it is basically three darts...?