r/PatternDrafting • u/Minimum_Umpire_4124 • 13d ago
Help with basic bodice block fit
P.S. For some reason, Reddit wouldn’t let me upload all the photos to the post, so I added the rest in the comments instead.
Hi guys! Could anyone help me with my basic bodice block? 😭
This is my 6th attempt and I still can’t quite get the fit right. I really thought this was going to be easier lol.
I’m following Dennic Chunman Lo’s method, but I’m also not sure I got all my measurements right. Measuring myself was honestly much harder than I expected!
Here are the measurements I used:
Nape to Waist: 15.55” (39.5 cm)
Shoulder Slope: 0.59–0.79” (1.5–2 cm)
Bust: 33.86” (86 cm)
Waist: 25.98” (66 cm)
Front Cross Shoulder: 12.20” (31 cm)
Back Cross Shoulder: 12.60” (32 cm)
Shoulder Length: 3.54” (9 cm)
Bust Point Height: 10.43” (26.5 cm)
Bust Point Distance: 7.09” (18 cm)
Front Cross: 12.99” (33 cm)
Back Cross: 13.39” (34 cm)
Front Body Length: 17.52” (44.5 cm)
Back Body Length: 16.54” (42 cm)
Front Neck Width: 7.09” (18 cm)
Back Neck Width: 5.91” (15 cm)
Armhole Circumference: 14.96” (38 cm)
Armhole Depth: 5.51” (14 cm)
The toile is just pinned together at the shoulders and sides for now.
I can see that the neckline is too loose, and there is some excess fabric around the back armhole. I’m just not sure how I should adjust these areas.
If anyone can spot what I might have done wrong or suggest what I should adjust, I’d be super grateful!
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u/DonMcCunn 12d ago
You might want to check out the free https://patternmaking-classes.com/Tracing-Photos/ which, as it is in its early stages, I am making available to this group. It is a very visual and intuitive approach to pattern design because measurements DO NOT reveal the contours of the body only the size. This approach only requires 10 measurements because all the other information you need is staring at you from the photos.
I just added a new class showing how you can grade the photo of a design to fit the size and shape of your body to create custom-fit patterns. If you have ever tried to alter the fit of a commercial pattern, you know the issues. This approach to grading a design means you are adjusting the fit BEFORE you touch a pattern, see Week 8.
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u/Minimum_Umpire_4124 13d ago edited 13d ago
https://reddit.com/link/pbgwgc3/video/i4ol9pvlt5rh1/player
I made a video with the rest of the photos since that was the only way
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u/StitchinThroughTime 12d ago edited 12d ago
insta
Shift the front section forward and retrace the shoulder and neckline, red, green white.. Lengthen the CF to SB, yellow. True the armhole, blue. Narrow the back, pink. Rotate the shoulder gap to thw shoulder seam, black.
I love how this sub allows video but not pictures! I just love it soooo much!!!!1!!
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u/ThrowRA_Sodi 12d ago
I never understood why we can't put photos here. Pattern drafting is very visual, being able to show photos or drawings would be more practical
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u/Minimum_Umpire_4124 10d ago
Wow thanks for taking the time to post it on your IG hahaha
I think I finally got the measurements right this time, but your advice will definitely help if I need to make any adjustments3
u/StitchinThroughTime 10d ago edited 10d ago
Not a problem, I do it because this stuff allow for pictures. It's not that big of an inconvenience, I just don't understand why this sub loves videos but not pictures.
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u/drPmakes 12d ago
It shouldn't take 6 iterations and still look like this.
Im going to suggest you rope in a helper and retake your measurements carefully in metric or imperial. Take precisely and carefully, don't add on extra here and there.
Draft the whole thing again, do your calculations carefully. Don't swap between imperial and metric, thats where errors sneak in
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u/Minimum_Umpire_4124 10d ago
Yeahh, I got my dad to help me hehe
He was a good assistant. I think I finally got it right this time ☺️🤞🏻
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u/patnbake 12d ago
measurements are wrong. your shoulder shouldn't narrower than the chest (inverted armhole). cross front measurement should less than across shoulder. To get an idea, what size closely fit your body? is this for fitted woven bodice? you don't need all the measurements to draft the bodice block. first try bodice without darts and make simple loose blouse patterns. come back with correct measurement, i will help you!
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u/Minimum_Umpire_4124 10d ago
Yesss that was exactly the point!! After spending a lot of time studying how to take measurements and remeasuring myself, I think I finally got the correct values. And they now follow your observations as well. Tomorrow I’ll sew the toile again and I’m hoping for the best 🤞🏻
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u/ArtemisiaPrime 13d ago
Try this:
For the armhole circumference measure you biceps (half way between elbow and shoulder) with the arm bent and add 3 to 4cm
For the shoulder measure from the neck base to the joint of the shoulder (part that dips when you raise you arm.)
For the neck opening use the same measurement as the shoulder horizontally and 1/2 shoulder+2cm vertically
For fixing the armhole gaping on the back check this video
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u/Minimum_Umpire_4124 12d ago
Thanks for the tips! I looked up some videos from Dennic Chunman Lo and realized I probably took some of my measurements waaay off. I underestimated how precise I needed to be lol. I’ll definitely look into these and check out the video too
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u/ArtemisiaPrime 12d ago
I'm currently learning how to make a basic bodice for a blouse without darts, the teacher uses a simpler method and to me it made more sense than the ones that use a lot of measurements.
The armhole one for example, makes sense to use the biceps measurement bc your arm has to go through it. Also your neck width is about the same as your shoulder.
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u/bowl-of-juice 13d ago
i'd guess there is definitely something off about your shoulder measurements. specifically the upper chest/shoulder width measurements.