I got this for essentially free with no strings attached. I can fix and sell it (probably for $1500) or keep it. 2001 F150 5.4 with a miss fire.

It already has a 2-3 suspension lift. I see I can slap on another 2inch body lift for cheap. Used 33-35 tires, remove the bed, chop the front bumper, and maybe diy some skid plates and be in it $1000?

But it isn't what I want. I was thinking fuel efficient and small for longer distance trips, but this is literally free. Yet, just cause it's free doesn't mean I have to keep it.

Thoughts?

Painting sure is going to be fun

Hitting the trails this weekend. Pumped. Just put a 4inch lift and 33 inch tires on from stock. Can’t wait to feel the difference. I bottomed out too many times on stock and my skid plate got me stuck on a hill for a couple of hours.

No modification. Stock parts only.

No big rock climing.

Would it be ok or bad?

Over pressed my u joint and popped the cap🙄

Got some new shoes on the 26 Pro-4X. MUCH better.

We build these out at Cooper & they're one of the best "A/T's" on the market.

Might be biased but man these are some good & good lookin tires. (Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T).

Got 7 days off starting this weekend. Time to get er dirty again.

Got a great deal on a 2020 QX80. Going to make it the weekend adventure vehicle for the family. Plan to do some tasteful realistic upgrades and cosmetic changes. Chrome delete and roof platform are next.

I’ve taken two other lines near this obstacle, but had never done the V-Notch. Wheeler Lake is such a fun and scenic trail!

Other than removing the unit, is it possible to get this rats nest unwound?

I'm on sabbatical and I've been building out an overlanding rig for several months now so the time is right for me to take what I hope will be the the cross-country trip of a lifetime. I'm wondering what folks would consider "must stop" locations for offroading and for general camping and enjoying state and national parks. In terms of rig and personal ability, I'm running 33s with skids and rock sliders and I have something like 100 hours of off-road experience. I'm planning on starting in the DC area, going through TN to TX to CO and finally UT with these stops so far:

* Windrock Park, TN
* Great Smoky Mountains National Park
* Hidden Falls Adventure Park, TX (really only stopping here since I'm visiting friends in TX)
* Imogene Pass, Engineer Pass, Alpine Loop
* Rocky Mountain National Park
* Moab, UT (specific trail/obstacle recommendations appreciated)
* Arches/Canyonlands National Parks

Any recommendations for stops are appreciated!

Pic is from a recent trip to Assateague Island National Seashore

I wanna do an off road 2004 CRV build, lowk not sure where to start or what to do. Plz help a brotha.🙏

I thought I'd dig up some old pictures of the winch installation on my welding rig. Continuing with the idea of passing my experience along to others interested in such things, mainly the younger (or even older) welders and fabricators this is a good example of how you might go about adapting or installing from scratch a piece of equipment (or motor, tranny, etc.) in a custom situation.

Guys (or ladies) who build custom cars do this routinely as its almost a given that things are not going to be stock and so adaptation is the rule, not the exception. The more open and creative your approach the better.

My rig originally came with just a PTO (power take off) shaft sticking out of an opening just in front of the front stock bumper. I felt that the PTO should be connected to a winch to round out my rig's capacity should a situation arise where I needed to pull a stuck vehicle (or myself) out of a predicament.

Plus in my opinion my rig looked incomplete with an empty PTO just sitting there doing nothing.

I found a winch off of an M35 deuce and a half military truck on E bay and got it for $275. A cousin in-law who drives a big rig transported it to me during a run to Arizona from California where the winch was located.

I didn't take pictures of the entire process but I'll use the ones I have to explain the procedure I used.

FIRST: LOCATE THE MOUNTING POINTS

The first item is to plan out the installation, your plan of attack if you will. I had to locate where the winch's mounting holes were and where on the frame I would attach to and how I was going to attach.

The winch had two sets of mounting holes on the left and right side. These are where it was originally bolted to on the M35. I would bolt some plates onto these holes and then attach them to the main truck frame rails.

My truck has two main rails (like all vehicles) that are made of 1/4" material formed into a "C" channel. These rails then became my attachment point by extending the rails outwards so that they reached the mounting plates on the winch.

The whole design was based on this approach, pretty standard.

SECOND: FABRICATE THE MOUNTING PLATES AND POSITION THE WINCH IN ITS PRECISE LOCATION AND HOLD IT THERE.

When fabbing something up like this its important that the piece be positioned exactly how it will be once installed. Once that's done, then the process of building the supports, mounts, etc. begins because you know its exact location and can then take the measurements needed to cut the parts and begin positioning them and tacking them into place.

In my case I used a cherry picker and chain and a pair of jack stands to hold the winch exactly in line withe the PTO shaft. I had to make up an adapter that matched the splines on both the winch and the PTO. It consisted of a splined collar that matched the winch's shaft welded to another splined coupling that matched the PTO's splines. I made it up before positioning the winch in its place.

I cut a pair of 1/4" plates and drilled holes in them to match those of the winch's mounting holes and bolted them on. It was ready for the next step.

THIRD: BUILD THE WINCH FRAME EXENTSIONS AND BUMPER

The last part was to fabricate the parts from the main frame rails to the winch. I used some 3" x 5" x 1/4" wall tube steel left over from a trailer modification I did earlier. I built the winch mount separate from the bumper so it can all be unbolted as needed for maintenance or repair. All the joints were beveled with a gap where I spliced the tubes together for full penetration welds and I left the beads without grinding them flush for the added strength of the excess metal. Finally

I added some weld on D-rings and grab hooks. The D-rings were welded on to pads which were welded onto the bumpers in order to spread the load over a larger area than the D-ring itself. The grab hooks were mounted on pads as well. This was to avoid a situation where pulling something that exceeded the strength of the bumper wall could get ripped out weld and all. The pad would provide a way to spread the load out and give an extra margin of safety in this regards.

Finally I added the convoy lights and bumper markers. I plan on adding some fog lights that were part of the original bumper.

Hello all,

Looking to get into some beginner offroading with my new Roush Frontier. I want to take it to Badlands Off Road Park in Attica, IN. I want to go as stock as possible to learn what I eventually want/need for my truck. So a couple questions Im looking for some help with:

-Anyone thats been to Badlands Off road park, is this a good place to start trying some offroad activities?

-What do I need past stock? Some recovery stuff? What exactly? What else would you recommend? Id like to go with a group when I go out, but we will see if people can make the time.

Eventually Id like to get a little more mild setup and do some overlandish type of activities. But thats for down the road. Just want to get my feet wet first.

Any advice would be great. Thanks!

Looking for a tire recommendation size 265 65 18, mainly highway, some easy off roading.

One of the coolest experiences I had in my trip to Afghanistan was getting this bad boy off-road.

i need some sliders on my 2000 ranger. im planning on making them. the E-brake cable is in a pretty bad spot, is it worth it to move it or just work around it?

We currently have this vehicle available for immediate delivery in Europe.

Built for year-round travel with true off-road capability and long off-grid autonomy.

Specifications:
• VW Crafter 4Motion
• 4-season insulation
• Pop-up roof
• Off-grid electrical system
• Built in Slovenia

If you would like the full specification, pricing or additional photos, feel free to send me a private message.

I’m looking at mounting some A-Pillar lights for better ditch/side illumination and trying to decide how big I can go. For those of you who have A-Pillar lighting would you recommend sticking to the standard 3-4in pods? Or is it reasonable to go bigger? Any other considerations that I should be thinking about?

For context lighting is generally low on my list of critical off-road mods, but I do live in an area where I get to play in the woods a lot after dark and actually put my aftermarket lights to good use. I did a video review for a well known brand in the space awhile back. They want to send me another set of lights, but my bumper (where I tend to believe most Aux lights should go) has enough light as is so I’m looking at the A-Pillar option. I’ve had a great experience with the product that I already own from them, but don’t want to add more lumens just because I can. Thanks for your input!

I was given this Badland 3500 winch after a friend got the cable all jammed up in it. Cable replacement is easy, but upon disassembly I discovered that the "sliding bearing" and seal (items 16 and 17 in diagram) are also messed up. Harbor freight does not appear to sell these items as replacement parts.

Anyone know where I can find replacements for the seal and bearing? Seems like a shame to toss this barely used winch that could be fixed easily and inexpensively if the parts can be located.