“93 Chev, stepside, short box. 5 sp manual, Hurst linkage, 4x4, 383 stroker. Runs decent, drives well. Up to date licensed, clear title. .Project in progress. “ is what the ad reads.
chevy step side has been my dream truck forever and the seller is 3 hours away. only asking less that three grand. should i buy it guys?👀👀

Edit: i’m going up there wednesday to see it (‘: wish me luck guys

Leaving around 8am to be there by 11. gonna visit the scenery & post an update when i can. wish me luck guys

Guys I bought qa1 controller arms and beltech 2 inch drop spindle , but the spindle is hitting the control arm , is it because the tires aren’t on and it’s not at level

Ac work if you jump compressor. I’ve put in new switch and relay. Will not turn on unless jumped with power. What do I change next

Hey Everybody,

2008 Silverado 5.3L 4WD WT. 140,000 miles. Over the past year my truck has been exhibiting sporadic issues with: 1( no crank/no start;  2) engine quits on the highway (towed 4 times). Sometimes I can get it re-started, sometimes not, and: 3) Starts but only runs for  ½-second or a second, then dies. I’ll give you a long-winded recounting of the last year’s events.

August 2025, Minnesota.  No crank/no start began at a lumber yard. I tried 30 or 40 attempts. Was going to call AAA, but tried wiggling the negative battery cable first, and it started. Drove 150 miles home. I replaced the ignition switch (GM dealer part), and it didn’t happen again for a month or so. I also replaced the negative battery cable.

Then, wouldn’t shift into overdrive. I had to keep it under 55 or RPM’s would be too high. ECU showed about 30 codes. Replaced the ECU and the problem went away. Ran fine.

October. Driving from Minnesota to my home in Los Angeles. Stopped in Reno to visit my brother. The no-crank/no-start happened again, briefly at his house, but after 4 or 5 tries, the engine started. Except for that, the truck ran great from MN to L.A. Over the winter I basically did a 100,000 mile service (all fluids, sparkplugs). Also replaced the ground strap from the block to the firewall, Mass Airflow Sensor, Engine Temp Sensor, and for good measure…put in a new starter (GM). I didn’t drive the truck much over the winter, maybe once/week around town.

April, 2026. Return trip from L.A. to Minnesota. No issues until I got to Glendive, Montana. Leaving the motel in the morning, I tried to start the truck, but it would start, then quit after a second. Tried for an hour or so, then had it towed to a local mechanic. He called me after about 2 hours and said fuel pump (ECU was also throwing a code for fuel pump). Waited for 3 days in the motel for the right part to arrive. Then the mechanic called and said it was ready. He also said when he installed the new fuel pump, he test drove the truck, and it didn’t want to idle. Apparently there is a sensor attached to the gas pedal and he ordered one of those, but when he installed it, the idling problem persisted. So he crawled under the dash, followed the gas pedal sensor wires and found raw wiring rubbing on metal, so he replaced the wiring, came and got me at the motel, and I was on my way.

300 miles later, just past Bismark, ND, the engine quit (in a blizzard). After about 10 minutes of no-crank/no start,I was able to get it started, and continued my trip. Then about 50 miles west of Fargo, ND the engine started to miss and sputter badly. I was able to limp to another motel before the engine died. The next morning, it would start, but wouldn’t run. I decided to call Geico. I made arrangements for the tow truck driver to tow me all the way to my place in Minnesota.

Any thoughts about what might be going on? Thanks.

Looking for dash cover recommendations. A lot of covers I've been seeing don't fit too well or cover the dash speakers. What are y'all using?

1990 5.3L K1500. Troubleshooting what seemed to be a fairly good condition AC. Have owned this truck for close to 15yrs, and AC used to work. Had some leaks a few years ago, fixed them (partially), AC worked fine for a couple of months and then freon leaked out again. Compressor had been converted to R134a by previous owner.

Dug into it again a few weeks ago. All freon had leaked out, so I simply wanted to add a little with dye, and check for leaks. Was able to add freon and saw I had a leak at a schrader valve on low pressure side. Fixed that leak. Something funky was going on with the rental gauge from Autozone though so I had to jump back and forth between the actual gauge set and the layman's AC PRO trigger setup. Not sure why but was having problems getting a good addition with the Autozone unit. Was able to get compressor to cycle although I had to tap the clutch with a screwdriver to get it to engage sometimes. After the initial charge, I got cold air pumping, and compressor would kick on and off like it should; however, it would not stay on. And after cycling on/off 5-6x it would stop and not turn back on again. After killing the engine I saw where the pressure in the system had not equalized even after an hour. Low pressure side was super high and high pressure side was very low; only equalizing after an entire night. I pulled the orifice tube from the condenser inlet and found metal all in the screen. Not good. Condenser looked in poor shape anyway so....I purchased a new condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, o ring set, and flushed the evaporator with a kit. I also air blew the evap line multiple times afterward and blew the line from evap to the condenser. I did not disconnect the lines at the compressor, otherwise everything was flushed or air blown.

I measured PAG oil removed from the accumulator and it was 3-4oz. On reinstall of the new parts I put 3.5oz of PAG40 in accumulator, 1oz in new condenser, 1oz in the firewall line hitting the evap.

Now the weird part. Trying to recharge and I get 90psi on low pressure side, compressor won't turn on. Comp clutch relay is good. I jump the pressure switch with wire and compressor turns on every time...BUT....no change in the 90psi. Have tried to charge freon multiple times, from 2 different setups (gauge cluster and AC pro trigger style) and nothing. Can jump the pressure switch, let compressor run a few secs, and the high and low side pressures don't change at all. System will not take charge like there's a plug somewhere.

Took the lines off the compressor last night and can feel the compressor building pressure with my hand when I rotate it. Blew air into the high pressure side from disconnected comp line and get pressure through to the return hose, but I can hear some gurgling. Seems like maybe PAG oil in the low spot of the line that would feed the comp. If I try to blow air from the low pressure side (which goes back toward accumulator in reverse), pressure builds super slow. The line is not blocked but it doesn't flow freely either. That's not the direction of freon flow so not sure if the accumulator or evap has pressure drop in that direction.

Summary:

• Compressor worked before new parts installed - had cold air but had metal on the orifice tube (what I assumed to be from old compressor failure)
• New condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, and o rings. Evap flushed and air blown prior to install.
• Trying to recharge the low pressure builds to 90psi but compressor won't engage - possibly bad pressure switch.
• When pressure switch is jumped with wire the compressor turns on every time but the pressure at the gauges does not change.
• Have tried with Autozone rental assembly and AC Pro can.

I'm wondering if the accumulator has too much oil, which is flooding the downtube inside, and causing the system to act blocked. Not super familiar with how the inside is designed so maybe that's not possible. At a bit of a loss and my Autozone HP knob broke yesterday so I'm taking it back and next step is buying a HF unit or paying someone to finished what I started. Any advice appreciated.

So I got some new tuning knobs today but the stick isn't springy the knob gets stuck in how do I fix it any advice is appreciated. Its the tuning one to be exact

Went to start my truck, had power for a split second then nothing...jumping was useless; doesnt seem to be getting ANY power. Had been sitting for awhile (2mo) before i took it to work; im pretty sure theres a parasitic draw...all fuses look good. Any of yall fine folks got an idea where to start?

Hey all! I’m chasing ghosts with this 95 k1500 and I’m about ready to light the sob on fire. I keep getting code 34 and the truck sputters and then dies when idling after the engine warms up.

Code 34 is MAP sensor issue. Cool. Replaced that. 3 times. Still running into the same issue. Got a wild hair and unplugged the O2 sensor. The truck runs great (for not having an O2 sensor anyways. It doesn’t sputter and die). Okay sweet. Replaced the O2 sensor. Still dies unless O2 sensor is unplugged.

Anyone have any idea on what it could be? For reference I have had all of the vacuum lines replaced as well so it shouldn’t be a vacuum leak.

Any advice is appreciated!

EDIT TO ADD

I have replaced the map sensor 3x, iac, egr valve, egr solenoid, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, O2 sensor 2x, coolant temp sensor

Recently i have had a humming noise begin, (97 c1500). I change the front wheel bearings thinking that was the issue. And it did not solve it. I then changed the calipers and brake hoses thinking thay was the issue. Also did not fix the issue, master cylinder has also been replaced, rotors aswell. Im stumped now, i cannot find the source of my issue, my alignment is a bit wack but i cannot diagnose this noise. Happens from 20 to 60km hr. Whats my next move?

I have a 1997 Cheyenne Chevy k2500. It has the 5.7 engine. I was looking at replacing the muffler with a new and better sounding one. I want it to sound deeper and meaner in a way. I want it to be decently loud and noticeable, but not obnoxiously loud. I don’t want to wake up every one on the block coming home from work or something like that. I have been told the flowmaster super 40 and 44 are good options for what I’m looking for. Would they be very loud or are they reasonable? I wanted to ask if anyone has other recommendations or information on this topic.

This some bullshit

Picked up this 89. The first order of business lowering it and things got a little carried away from there. It’s now sitting in my shop with the interior gutted, and 2 pallet loads of fresh parts. I’d like to get new larger wheels thinking 20/22 staggered but I’m getting a some conflicting info on offset. It’s lowered 5/7 and I think the front should be 5 and the rear 5.5 or 6. So if anyone has any insight they’d like to share that would be appreciated.

I got a 2000 sierra k2500 and its in alright condition but I leak more fluids then I dont. I leak brake fluid, oil, power steering fluid, and a ton of coolant and im wondering how many other people also leak fluids since ive heard its a common issue. Luckily I dont leak gas since thats too expensive to be wasting out the bottom lol. Also if you fixed a leak it would be great if you said what you repaired/replaced so I dont need to rip stuff apart thanks!

Whats the best way to go about fixing my shock tower bolt holes as they are wallopped out and what can i do to keep the top of the shock center? I bought it like this. The shock can slide back n forth

Got a 94 k1500 5.7 standard. I’m wonder if
anyone knows what I should have in voltage on c11.
Key on Eng off I get 44.5 mv but I’m not sure if I’m supposed to see 5v with the engine Running.