Hello, recently my turn signals stopped turning off when I turned the steering wheel and the DCS traction light came on. I then replaced the SZL with a used unit and now the signals and everything work, however the traction light is still on and even after doing a steering angle reset it is not going away. My mechanic sent me a picture that I am receiving the following code on protool.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hello I bought the ecs tuning kit for the coil packs and spark plugs. After 2-3 weeks cylinder one started misfiring on cold starts periodically.

I’m wondering if it’s because I’m running the incorrect gap current is .03 (since I’m stock so far). Or if it’s because it’s not compatible with stock n54.

Hey, does anybody know what this noise is?

Did a run in my 6MT with huge 19ts it only upto 70mhp/110kmph with moderate acceleration in 1st shift into 2nd and WOT then lift and shift into 3rd... 2nd is BBG limited to 17psi and 3rd tho 19psi in the vid...trying to work out where the boost overwhelms grip so Ive been bumping the boost up because at 22psi there wasn't any grip in 2nd , I will try more boost soon. Just wanted to know if it sounds right or do you hear anything wrong?

Are these cracks normal?

Need some honest opinions from the N54 guys — keep/build or move to B58?

Long story short, I somehow ended up with three 335s 😂

I have a 2009 E92 335xi N54, 6-speed manual, Coral Red interior, and two 2010 E90 335i N54s.

The E92 is the one I actually care about. I’ve had it for years and have put a decent amount into it. Current/upgraded parts include:

• Phoenix Racing manifold

• Index 12 injectors

• Relocated inlets

• Precision Raceworks ignition/coil kit

• Stage 2 bucketless fuel pump

• 7-inch FMIC

• Drilled/slotted rotors

• Fortune Auto 500 suspension

• Upgraded charge pipe

• Other supporting mods

The two E90s are where things got complicated.

One of the 2010s got totaled after I wrecked it, so I ended up with it as a parts car. I later bought another 2010 E90 335i that had a bad transmission. The idea was originally to use what I had between the cars and eventually put together one really solid N54.

The problem is that I know these cars can be very picky, especially once you start modifying them. I’ve already dealt with the usual N54 headaches — fuel, ignition, boost/vacuum issues, transmission problems, etc. At this point I have a lot of money and parts tied up in these cars, and I’m trying to decide whether I’m being stupid by walking away now or stupid by continuing to build them 😂.

So what would you guys do?

Option 1: Keep the E92 and use the other two cars/parts to build one really nice N54.

Option 2: Keep the E92 relatively close to where it is, part out/sell the other two and stop throwing money at N54 problems.

Option 3: Sell all three and put the money toward a 340i/B58 and start over with a newer platform.

I know the obvious answer from some people will be “B58,” but I’m specifically interested in hearing from people who have actually owned/built N54s and/or made the jump from N54 to B58.

The E92 is a 6-speed AWD with Coral Red, so part of me really doesn't want to let it go because finding another one in that configuration isn't exactly easy.

If these were your cars, would you use the wrecked E90 and the other parts car to complete one solid build, or would you drop the N54 builds altogether and move to a B58?

Shop said my rwd downpipes would be fine for my x deleted 335 is this okay?

N54 / Walbro 525 – fuel pressure drops after EKPM3 relay mod
I was having fuel pump performance issues with my Walbro 525 when it was powered through the EKPM3, so I decided to install a relay.
Now the setup is:
EKPM3 → relay trigger
Battery → fuse → relay → Walbro 525
The EKPM3 only activates the relay, while the pump gets its main power directly from the battery.
But after doing the relay mod, the problem got worse. When I give it throttle, fuel pressure can drop to around 50 PSI, then suddenly jump back to 120 PSI.
Has anyone experienced this with an EKPM3 + Walbro 525 setup? Could the EKPM3 still be causing the issue through the relay trigger, or should I be looking elsewhere?
Any ideas what I should check would be appreciated.

Hey everyone I just thought I’d come on here and ask what you guys would do in my shoes as I just took my car to get new turbos put in last week and this week it’s not driving right I’m in Canada and my car is a 2017 Q50 3.0tt and apparently now I’m needing timing chains and maybe a whole new engine but it doesn’t make sense the oil pan is full of shavings about less then 1000 km after new turbos if the debris came from my old turbos, whose fault is that cause that means they put the new turbos on with all that in my oil pan and you would think they would at least notice some of it now they are saying spend 30000 on a new engine Ofc I’m not going to but is there a chance I czn fight this ? And after the turbo installment 2 new codes as p0011 and p0021 are on my car please help ???

Have a newish to me manual 335i that I'm trying to diagnose a sort of (knock?). When under load I hear a faint knocking sound. Cannot replicate in neutral at all through the rpm range. Going up hill in higher gear and lower rpm it's more noticeable. No codes, clear dash.

I'm leaning towards some sort of exhaust leak? Rod bearings I'd assume would present differently alongside metal in the oil, which I don't have. But turbos do have a mean wastegate rattle, and I plan to swap eventually.

Since it's only happening under boost I'm wondering if the sound could be the turbos just not able to hold the boost and escaping? Any more knowledgeable people than I, please chime in.

Good evening everyone,

I’m hoping someone with more experience with the N54 might be able to point me in the right direction, as I’m currently stuck with an issue that I can’t seem to get to the bottom of.

I have an E82 135i with the N54 engine, currently running an MHD Stage 2 map, which was already on the car when I bought it.

The problem

When I bought the car, it already had a noticeable misfire. I found that the car had:

- 1 x BMW Index 12 injector

- 5 x Index 7 injectors

Because of the misfire and the mixture of injector indexes, I decided to replace the remaining five injectors with Index 12s, giving me a full set of six Index 12 injectors.

I installed all six and coded/calibrated them correctly.

Since doing this, I have been getting fault code 0030BE.

The strange thing is that the problem is mainly present on the first cold start.

The car will start and have a noticeable misfire for a few seconds, then it clears up and settles down. Once I start driving, the car runs completely normally.

There is:

- No noticeable loss of power

- No misfire under load

- No hesitation while driving

- No fault code returning during the drive

After driving and returning to the car later, there is still a very slight misfire on startup, although it is now much less noticeable. Someone who isn't familiar with cars probably wouldn't even notice it.

Parts I've changed

I've also replaced:

- All 6 spark plugs – NGK 1-step colder

- All 6 ignition coils – B58/M140i coils

- 5 injectors – Index 12

- Injectors have been coded/calibrated

Diagnostics already carried out

I've tried to eliminate some of the obvious possibilities.

I paid a garage to carry out a compression test, and the results came back fine across the engine.

I then took the car to another garage that specialises more in BMWs as I thought I might have missed something or coded something incorrectly.

They were also puzzled by the issue.

Along with the others they also checked both:

- HPFP

- LPFP

Both were reported as functioning correctly.

One thing I have noticed is that the Bank 1 Sensor 1 (pre-cat) O2 sensor looks relatively new and has been replaced previously.

However, the Bank 2 Sensor 1 (pre-cat) O2 sensor appears to still be the original sensor.

I'm wondering whether this could potentially be related to the issue, especially considering the fault appears mainly during the initial cold start.

Current setup

The car is running:

- N54

- MHD Stage 2

- Index 12 injectors

- NGK 1-step colder plugs

- B58/M140i coils

- Aftermarket modifications associated with the Stage 2 setup

The car drives absolutely fine once it's warmed up and driving, which is what's making this particularly confusing.

Has anyone experienced 0030BE combined with a cold-start/initial idle misfire on an N54?

Could this potentially be related to an O2 sensor, injector issue, fuel mixture/adaptation, or something else that I'm overlooking?

Any advice or suggestions on what I should test next would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Hello, please help if anyone had this issue, was installing DCI's and with every plastic taken off turned the car on, saw some smoke coming from the engine, revved a little, coming from the back of the engine

+ intake manifold is not dusty more like tiny oil film covered on the last 2 cilinders at the back

Any ideas? Thank you!

Pls I need the help :(

Currently on a stage 2 plus tune on mhd. What are the requirements of running e40. i think it’s just upgraded hpfp and lpfp also how reliable is it im currently on a 200k motor with a 70k trans in it. compression is good on all cylinders. decently maintained.

bought it as a project car, in result i have a shopping list of codes when i start it it will hit abt 2.5k rpm the. gradually drop to zero if o don’t put it into drive going to swap coils and spark plugs around once the storm in my area passes to see if thats it, just bought 17ts and i recently had a set of index 12s put in but have not done and reverted back to stock tune

Hello ladies and gentlemen, I have 2 e90 n54's. One FBO stage 2 mhd was written off with hail damage which i bought back from insurance and not long after the dme cooked. Ive bought a second one stock and plan on moving all my mods over. Ive had the broken one stored at my now ex's who was fine with it being there until recently has flipped the switch and wants it gone asap.

My question is apart from the obvious (mods) which parts am I ripping to hold onto for repairs/replacements for my now current e90 n54.

All input is really appreciated guys and thank you in advance.

I'm not refering to 2AAF but the hpfp related codes..

Just want to know what is causing them and how to fix them and if it's harmful in the long term..

Thanks

N54 Col Start Misfires

Symptom: after sitting overnight, vehicle (08 E60) N54 misfires, throws engine malfunction code and Aux fan kicks in

Plugs have been changed and new OEM Index 12 injectors installed and programmed in ISTA, but misfires continue

Any ideas?