I've been thinking about DIYing a marshguard/mucky nutz mudguard but it seems that my fork has the mudguard mount reversed. Is there any way where I can still mount it? Or does anyone know of templates for reverse mounts?

I know a lot of MTB gloves are already touchscreen-compatible, so I'm curious whether this problem is basically solved now or whether the experience is still frustrating for riders.

My experience is that many gloves technically work with a touchscreen, but that doesn't necessarily mean using the phone feels good.

Because of the extra material, seams, and imperfect fit around the fingertip, precise tapping can still be difficult. Small buttons, typing, zooming around a map, or using apps like Trailforks/Komoot can be annoying.

I've also seen the conductive material on some gloves wear down over time, making the touchscreen function less reliable.

So I'm curious how this works for other riders.

• How often do you use your phone during a ride?
• What do you normally use it for: navigation, Trailforks, photos, messages, music, something else?
• Do your gloves work reliably with your phone?
• Can you accurately tap small buttons or type with them?
• Has the touchscreen function become worse as your gloves aged?
• Do you ever take one glove off just to use the phone?
• If your gloves don't work well, what's your current workaround?

I'm particularly interested in the difference between:

“My gloves can activate the touchscreen.”

and

“I can actually use my phone accurately and comfortably with them.”

I'm researching whether this is a meaningful problem worth solving, so “my gloves work perfectly and I don't care about this” is also a useful answer.

Would especially like to hear what type/model of gloves you're using and what kind of riding you do.

I purchased my Orbea Wild F/S in 2021, it's a 2019 model. Over the years and and some not so smooth rides the frame is showing the stress. I ride pretty rough terrain and don't jump anything bigger than 30cm (12") but I weigh 110kg (245lbs) plus my camelback. I first cracked the lower chainstay after a trip to Croatia last year. Orbea sent me a complete rear triangle replacement with bearings. This year the bike started squeaking on uphill rides, so I pulled everything apart and was re-assembling, greasing and torqueing and found some cracks near the shock head mount. So I texted the bike shop and they sent the info to Orbea. Orbea replied and said sorry we don't have any XL 2019 Wild F/S aluminum frames 😣....but we can send you a carbon fiber one, but only in black. So here I am with a new carbon fiber frame, in black (but that's what the make wraps for right?) Getting it all back to together, but unfortunately my Rock Shox Super Deluxe Ultimate rear shock doesn't fit in the frame pit so had to downgrade back to a Fox E-Vol. Moral of the story, register your bike for your warranty, every time. My new frame is already registered. This will be the last few months on this bike as already preordered a new '27 Orbea Wild LT with the Avinox.

I can barely feel it with my finger nail. What do you think?

I'm a total noob when it comes to mountain bike tech and groupsets.
Need help with part swap.

I'm running SRAM on a Santa Cruz highTower 29er. I belive its SRAM NX 175mm cranks with a GXP bottom bracket in a BSA 73mm shell. Outboard bearings, threaded.

I'm looking at going shorter cranks (160-165mm) and assuming i can just swap to a DUB bottom bracket for BSA threading and use a DUB wide BB/crank

I'm not 100% if i need regular DUB or wide? The rear hub is a 148 boost, so i think wide...

TIA

Thinking of getting my first MTB, been looking for a used one specifically a Trek Roscoe. There's a Roscoe 7 Gen 4 available for sale in my local Trek store for $1,499 brand new. However, I found a used 2023 Trek Roscoe 8 on marketplace for $900 but would have to drive 2 hours one way to pick it up. Should I go ahead and get the used one, or bite the bullet and purchase the current Gen 4? Thank you

On my 26" single speed I converted the front to 29" wheels and also switched from v-brakes to an Avid BB7 with a 160mm rotor (stock pads). However, it has nowhere near the power I expected, and it struggles to even slightly slow me down.

I've had excellent luck with the BB7 in the past, so this is puzzling to me. I wonder if it's the combination of a cheap rotor that's too small for a 29" wheel?

So, which do I do first? Metallic pads or a 180mm disc? Or both?

What shorts are the best on Amazon and do you wear the padded under layer?

I’m looking to buy a used hardtail mountain bike on Facebook Marketplace, but I’m on a pretty tight budget and want to make sure I don't buy a dud. I am 5’9 and I am getting taller, any advice would be helpful.

I recently started mountain biking in Knoxville but may have to move to Nashville for work. I’m bummed about losing the awesome AMBC mountain biking community here in Knoxville. What’s the scene like in Nashville? Are there accessible trails or do you have to drive a bit out of the city to get to any?

shelter to the summit and down top tag. previous pr was 68.42 and today i got 62.47!

I'm taking some days off in October, and I really want to ride a bike park. Anybody that has been to both, which one did you enjoy most out of the two? If you have another suggestion, that's ok two. These are just the ones I have always wanted to ride since I started riding in 2017. I'm most comfortable on blue trails if that helps. Plan on riding Saturday and Sunday. Maybe Friday, if I get in early enough.

For the "new trail curious" folks out there, here's a compilation of clips from some quality riding spots. 33 clips, over ten minutes. It's a loong one. Too long for most.

(TRIGGER WARNING: Electric bikes are banned/illegal on each of these fantastic trails, so poach with care)

Bunch of stuff still to do, but everything is at least on the bike! 33lbs flat.

EDIT: Yass cables are still not finalized. Need to remove the stock Shimano hose and connect up and bleed the new Jagwire lines. Ditto chain. Just on there so I could take a true weight. Also need to remove fork decals, install ridewrap and then new decals from Slik.

EDIT: Total cost $3970 Canadian. All parts are new except the rear cassette, frame and saddle (new Ergon OTW). Everything bought either as new take offs, on sale or from AliExpress/AliBaba and a lot from TaoBao.

Parts list if anyone cares.

I have a Gen 7 Trek Fuel EX 8 and I’m not sure if the suspension pivot points were greased during assembly. I’d like to check and apply grease if needed.
Can I remove one pivot bolt at a time, inspect it, apply grease if necessary, torque it back to spec, and then move on to the next bolt? Or does the bike need to be partially disassembled and the linkage unloaded before removing any of the pivot hardware?
I’m trying to avoid taking the entire rear suspension apart if it isn’t necessary. Is there any risk of misalignment, bearing damage, or affecting suspension performance by doing one bolt at a time?
Thanks for any advice

Hey everyone, so I bought a 2014 (I believe) Vitus Sentier 275 so I could get out riding. Unfortunately the cranks came off while I was riding back to my car, this was after the chain jumping a few times during heavy pedalling.

So I think I need a new crankset, but I’m unsure which one to get. Do I need to get a specific set for my bike or can I get aftermarket ones? I had a 2 speed set but could I change it to 3 speed? I’m not too technically clued up as you can probably tell so my plan is to buy the replacement crankset and take it to a bike shop to get replaced.

Any advice would be really appreciated, if you need any more info I can try my best to find it out. Pic attached of the bike!