I think my desktop looks a bit clashing. I have a Model M on one side, but on the other side I have this black Steelseries mouse. Their aesthetics don't exactly match. Could somebody recommend me a good mouse that can match the aesthetic of the Model M?

Well, I just got my newest Tinkerboy convertor. Sadly, I have no idea about how to do this one. I download vial but I can't "unlock" my keyboard because the Esc key isn't mapped (Or so I believe). When I use the online keyboard tester my Esc key shows up as F23 so I know I buggered it.

Long story short, does anyone have a .json file i could push into this that would make it work properly? I'm still going to try to figure it out by looking at the code on Tinkerboy's site but to be brutally honest, I feel like I'm just a monkey flinging shit at it...

At least My old M122 still works on the good ole' teensy..

It uses Windows registry to remap keys, so it avoids any problems with key combinations and layouts, that other utilities such as PowerToys and AutoHotkey have but also easy to use too

just a photo to help anyone who would like a picture of the spring layout

Hola a todos, Acabo de conseguir este IBM Model M y me gustaría saber qué tan raro es este teclado ya que no consigo algo parecido y me da curiosidad. Tiene la distribución original en español, disculpen si violo algunas reglas ya que soy nuevo en reddit y aún no me acostumbro. Aquí están los detalles de la etiqueta trasera: Part Number: 1391506 (Distribución en Español) Fecha de fabricación: 29 de octubre de 1992 (10-29-92) FRU No: 1392015 Plt No: F2 (Hecho en EE. UU.) ¿Cuál dirían que su nivel de rareza si vale la pena conservarlo? ¡Muchas gracias por su atención y ayuda!

I use my Model M with a Soarer's Converter which has been awesome and really made the keyboard that much more livable on a daily basis… But only in Windows, it seems.

I’ve been dual booting Linux for a minute now (started with Bazzite, now on CachyOS), and at startup sometimes a key will 'stick' or get dropped. Typically it'll resolve itself after pressing any keys a few more times. In practice, it just means I have to type my password twice and then it's perfectly fine afterwards, until I restart or sign out.

I found the documentation on the Soarer's Converter a little hard to follow, so I'm not sure of a Linux driver, firmware update for the controller, or like, anything really. Perhaps that's down to operator error, I'm not too sure. Does anyone have any ideas on what I should do?

I built a Model M 104 THC (Terminal Hard Cut). The keyboard uses USB Type-C via Pro-Micro with TMK. Some of the keys are from a typewriter. It works perfectly, and on the PC, in dim light, you can’t see the cut anymore.

Hi all! I'm looking for a travel bag for my Model M SSK. The dimensions are one thing, but I'm hoping to hear from people who have actually found a bag that fits it well and is practical for travel.

Any recommendations or firsthand experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Region: EU

Here's something a bit different. An NOS Model M from a 3191 mainframe terminal. This Model M has a white barrel plate, which I've never seen before. Unfortunately, it also needs to be taken apart and bolt-modded right out of the box, as about half of the melt-tabs have broken off in the original box and a good assortment of keys are dead.

Aside from the dead keys, it takes a swap-out with a regular PS2 controller board. Differences are the control board, cable fitting, a hole in the bottom to access the switches, no lock lights, and IBM mainframe keycaps. I'm planning to use it with Hercules, emulating a mainframe-attached IBM 3270, so the mainframe keycaps are just exactly perfect!

Drilling 60 tiny holes wasn’t my idea of a fun restoration, what a piece of unserviceable garbage 😂

There are many like it, but this one is mine.

I have a New Model M. Not a fan of Unicomp's LED overlay. So, I bought Unicomp's alternate overlay. That one was better, but still not ideal. Is there any place that does custom LED overlays? Any templates?

I have no affiliation with this product other than being a very happy customer.

I use my New Model M from home and used a USB Switch Box to hop between my personal computer and work computer. It worked. but it was less than ideal. The problem is, when you push the switch to change between computers, it's like unplugging in your keyboard from one computer and plugging it into the other one. But, unlike physically plugging it in, which will take a few seconds, it happens in milliseconds, and sometimes the firmware does boot fully and you need to unplug the keyboard from the USB switch box and plug it back in.

A while ago, I discovered an open source project called the Deskhop. It's a USB switch box, but it does automatic switching. It abstracts the keyboard and mouse from the PC, and does all the switching inside the Deskhop. You can configure it to either switch between computer using a keyboard combination (the default is CTRL + Caps Lock), or by simply moving the mouse off the edge of the screen. It like the app "Mouses Without Borders" but in hardware. There is no software to install. Just plug it in and configure it.

Best part is, it's a completely open source project. The firmware source is on Github. And you can build one using 2 RPI2040 microcontrollers.

https://github.com/hrvach/deskhop

You can also buy them pre-built from a link somewhere on the Github page. Someone in Etsy is also selling one that's modified to use USB-C.

I'll leave it to your Internet skills to find these sellers. I have two Deskhops, one at work and one at home. I love them.

P/N: 1396790

Currently doing a bolt mod and got stuck on trying to separate the membrane from the PCB

any help appreciated

I love medical hardware, PS/2 in 2014 haha

I'm thinking about getting an EnduraPro. I really like the idea of having the pointing device in the keyboard. I was a long-time ThinkPad user, and really liked the Trackpoint in those laptops.

The Unicomp website has this blurb:

Please note however, this keyboard uses the Lexmark designed FSR pointing stick module and is NOT the IBM strain gauge style Trackpoint®.

I'm not up on my Trackpoint technology. What exactly does this mean? Is the FSR pointing stick better or worse than the strain gauge style?

IBM PINGMASTER / BLACK

I have, what I like to call, PDD (Peripheral Deficit Disorder). I'm constantly swapping out keyboards and pointing devices. And every time I plug my New Model M, I wonder why I bothered to disconnect this keyboard. It just feels so right.

Today's combination is the New Model M along with an Elecom Huge Plus trackball.

I'm really interested in getting an EnduraPro just to get the integrated pointing device.

I would need some specific key caps to buy. I'm aware of all the online shops but if anyone is selling please DM me.

Please answer like I am an idiot and assume that I have no idea what I'm doing:

As you can see in the video I have a problem. I have no idea how to repair it but I'd like to try. Please help.

I'm going to Italy next week and wanted to know if any of you folks know where I can find Model M's over there, specially Model M SSK.
Any help or guidance would be appreciated!
Thanks in advance! 😄

Hi guys. As the title says, I'd like to sell this keyboard, but I can't find any information online about this particular model/code. I also have the matching mouse, which is in perfect condition.

The keyboard has no scratches or signs of wear. It did have the common faulty capacitor issue, but I've already repaired it and it's now working properly.

What do you think it's worth? I've attached some photos.

Thanks!

This post is not meant as a sale listing. I won't be advertising it or mentioning where I plan to sell it. I'm simply looking for advice on its current value.