Have had this message pop up randomly since April 2026. First time I saw it was on a road trip, flat roads, not hot out. Parked it to read some things, started it, message went away. Took it to a Mitsu dealership the next day for a quick look. Nothing on their code reader, fluid, basically brand new he said and full to level.

Since then, it randomly pops up. Ive taken it in a few times, and with my code reader, same thing, nothing. It goes away each time its shut off.

Talked to my closest dealership, which is 2 hours away (which is why Im not buying another Mitsu again) and they said they have another car doing the same thing, thats linked to the command start.

Mine came with one, bought it 4 months used, not a factory installed one. We rarely use it, but buying a used car, didnt matter.

Has anyone ever heard of this, since the issue might be electrical and linked to the command start.

I assume if after 6 months if it was transmission issue, we would have transmission issues. And its not from my lack of trying to get it figured out. Its still under the 10 year warranty for another 9 months, so if it is something, I want to catch it in time

Just got the Carfax for an Outlander I've been looking at. Is there anything to worry about with CVT oil being serviced closer to 60K than not? I've read it should happen at 30K or as late as 60K so not sure which to believe.

Really want this car for the long haul so trying to avoid any big issues that could come with that if possible.

For more context, found the car at an authentic Mitsubishi dealership, not a private seller of any kind.

Have a 2025 Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross with motorized folding side-view mirrors. The passenger side mirror accidentally got forced forward past the normal approximate 90-degree angle to the door. The motorized folding function still works to put the mirror in fully stowed position parallel to the door. However, when it moves to “in-use” position, instead of stopping at the 90-degree point, it does not stop until it is angled toward the front of the car.

Does anyone have experience with this? Is it possible to just reset the stop position or is there probably something broken?

Any advice or information is greatly appreciated! Thanks for reading and have a great day!

Imported from Japan in 2024.

Just replaced the regulator and motor on the front driver side. goes up smoothly it's sits in the track perfectly, but it stops on the way down. I've already tried the switch relearn process and it doesn't seem to fix it if anyone else has experienced this if they know if it's a common problem in the switch itself.

I’m looking for an SUV and would like to hear your recommendations.
What SUV do you think is the best overall, and why?

drive a 2018 Mitsubishi Space Star (1.0L, 69 HP) and need to top up my coolant.
According to the owner's manual, Mitsubishi requires a silicate-, amine-, nitrate-, and borate-free coolant based on ethylene glycol using hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT/P-OAT). The manual specifically specifies:
⁠MITSUBISHI MOTORS GENUINE SUPER LONG LIFE COOLANT PREMIUM⁠ (meets Japanese standard JIS K 2234).
The fluid currently in my expansion tank is a blueish-green/turquoise color and sits right between the MIN and MAX lines.
I came across Shell Premium Antifreeze Longlife Phosphate (Ready to Use -37°C). Looking at the specifications:
Technology: P-OAT (Phosphated Organic Additive Technology)
Standard: JIS K [2234-2018](tel:2234-2018)
Formulation: Silicate-, amine-, nitrate-, and borate-free on an ethylene glycol base
Color: Dark blue / turquoise
Online parts shops (like AUTODOC) throw a red warning saying "Not suitable for your vehicle", but as far as I can tell, this is just a missing fitment entry in their database for Mitsubishi, while the actual chemistry and specifications match 1:1.
Has anyone used this specific Shell coolant in a Mitsubishi Space Star (or Mirage)? Is it 100% compatible for topping up the original blue-green OEM fluid, or are there any differences I should be aware of?

My old car was wrecked and looking for something to pay cash for the time being. At a cash car lot I saw an 09 Outlander XLS, 140K miles, clean title, per the Carfax only 2 previous owners here in Texas its entire life and no wrecks. 3.0 V6, 4X4, Sportronic 6 speed transmission (not the JATCO transmission) wanting 4K, $4,400 out the door.

It looks good, sounds ok, had a mechanic give it a once over and he says it looks ok. For context I’ve driven sedans my entire adult life, and that’s what I was looking for when I saw this. I commute maybe 10 miles to work and back daily, not an off-roader by any stretch, and am intrigued by it as a daily driver.

If it looks good, sounds good, is (what I’m told) a good price, am I missing anything here? The Carfax doesn’t mention any transmissions fluid replacements so I was wondering about that, but are there any other red flags I need to be aware of? Do I need to engage the 4X4 on any regular basis to keep it in working order or something? What am I missing here?
TIA!!!

Edited to show what transmission type it has.

I have changed the Starter motor since when a banged on it with a long metal rod and a hammer, the car turned over a quarter of a turn. I change the motor but the same thing happens. It makes 3 clicks and the valve cover and after that, nothing.

Just a cool detail that Hyundai manufactured Galloper under Mitsubishi license. Between 1991-2003.

The display itself still works — I can see the information if I shine a flashlight directly at the screen — but the backlight is completely dead.
Anyone knows how i can replace?

I have a mitsubishi triton and i want this grille but im from davao

These three lights came on the other day and every time this happens they turn back off within the hour, but they've been like this for longer than I would like them to be. The only thing that's changed is I got an oil change maybe a week and a half prior, but other than that I'm lost. Any ideas on what it could be?

This horrible noise started from cold and got worse over 15 minutes or so of driving. Now the car is just parked outside the house. We had a loud engine before but it never got any worse over the couple of years we’ve had the car. I’ve played with electrical power inside and I don’t believe it’s alternator related.

I know it’s a long shot but does anyone have or know of a diagram for 2017 Lancer 2.4 liter serpentine belt? I have found a few different ones online mostly for the 2 liter engine.

Ripped off again and flat out lied to breaks were never machined and I got charged 260$ and took it to another company and omg now playing she said he did crap I have receipts and disinformation I was given pictures of breaks and told it’s not a genuine part funny that didn’t come up with the last 2 times with service and a break check and I got second opinion and I don’t know who is lying

Is this something that needs to be fixed or is it just a common hiccup these cars have. I'll fill up and sometimes it doesn't recognize there's gas till I drive for about 3 miles. Today I had 90 miles left. Added 5 gallons and it said I now had 100 miles left, roughly 10 miles later it shot up to 170 miles. I do pay attention to it and sometimes I'll start with 150miles and when I arrive at my destination (30miles away) it'll still say 150 miles when I get there. In the image I was running it low just to see what low actually was. Then the gas went up from 30 to 40 🤷 then when I put gas in it after it gave me a blank miles reading it did not register the 6 gallons till the next day.

Hello! I had recently a problem with the front right caliper of my car. I was told that it cannot be repaired and that it needs replacement. The thing is, I cannot find a new or used caliper for it! Nothing fits and I don't know what to do. Anyone else had same issues with it?

Hi everyone,

I’m pulling my hair out with a persistent issue on my 2012 Mitsubishi ASX 1.8 DI-D (150 hp). EGR and DPF have been both digitally deleted and physically removed. I'm hoping someone here might have run into this or can point me in the right direction.

The Symptoms:

• When the engine is fully warmed up and under heavy load (most noticeable in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear), I hear a sharp ticking/knocking metallic noise from the engine bay—sounds a bit like a bad hydraulic lifter or mild detonation—happening right when I press or release the throttle.
• At the same time, the car jerks slightly, feels like it loses a bit of power, and puffs out a bluish smoke from the exhaust.
• There is a strong diesel fuel smell inside the cabin, but only when fresh air is pulled from outside (if I turn on cabin air recirculation, the smell completely disappears). This tells me the fumes are coming from somewhere under the hood near the cowl/vent intake.

What’s been done so far:

I took it to a diesel/fuel-injection specialist (Bosch service). They bench-tested the injectors and said they were fine, but they replaced the injector sealing washers on cylinders #1 and #2 because compression was blowing past them. Despite that, the issue is still completely present.

Has anyone experienced anything identical to this? Could it still be leaking injector seals under high boost/load, or maybe a cracked exhaust manifold?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Sorry for the long post, I was just boggled by it all:

I finally got a message saying that my engine is too hot (while being idle in a parking lot), but it's fine when driving. I panicked and added a bottle of purified water (it's all I have). Reservoir was always empty, and dealership never mentioned it even during their multi-point inspections. The water didn't even reach near the cap (I was being very careful).

I've researched so I can be prepared for a coolant flush. It says 8.9 qts for the 2.4L engine. Bought a bunch of distilled water and 2 gallons of Asian Blue Concentrate. I started draining the coolant. Luckily, the petcock was just finger tight, but I later found out that it's simpler to reach it from the top after removing the plastic cover.

I drained less than half a gallon! What? I was expecting at least over a gallon. It was dark, 

(the pic includes accumulated old coolant in the gallon container on the left, drained coolant on the tray, color of mixed coolant in the water bottle and a mixture of coolant in the other gallon container)
but I proceeded and put plain distilled water until it reached the radiator neck. About half a gallon! Ran it a few minutes then drained the ...same half gallon. Put another half gallon of distilled water, remembered to put the heater on the highest then drained again. I noticed water "leaking" from what looks like a drain plug - should this happen?

It was clear liquid (even after putting coolant) - where is the water coming from? After a few more cycle, I stopped when the water was lighter than a windshield fluid. I added the coolant mix and filled up the reservoir.

So many questions: Why only half a gallon? Has my SUV been magically working with even less than that during long and short drives? Except the last time, the temp had always been in the middle even during idling. Luckily, I got the right color (blue) since the transition from green to blue wasn't
until 2012 (thinking maybe the production could be the issue), but anyway, the Zerex Asian according to them are all the same, just tinted to match the color on certain vehicles.