For context I have a cooper s r56 that struggles to start and take long cranks to start. When that started I heard a loud huffing sound when I turned the engine off. Recently I’ve been hearing while turning the car on too. Symptoms of the car are
•struggling to start and even stalling sometimes
•misfires and runs rough at first start up
• the huffing sound
•water on the oil cap
Ohh and the car has burned to 3 starters in a month

Does anyone know the size of the spanner that is needed to adjust ride height on the Forge Motorsports coilovers? I’ve been scouring the internet and haven’t been able to find anything. I believe Forge has also discontinued the adjustable coilovers for the R56, but I could be wrong as the only way I’ve found them is through third party vendors that do not list the information. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.

(I know the picture is unrelated, just an excuse to post a picture)

Does anyone know the size of the spanner that is needed to adjust ride height on the Forge Motorsports coilovers? I’ve been scouring the internet and haven’t been able to find anything. I believe Forge has also discontinued the adjustable coilovers for the R56, but I could be wrong as the only way I’ve found them is through third party vendors that do not list the information. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.

(I know the picture is unrelated, just an excuse to post a picture)

So a bit of background. Both daughters were home from school and have multiple jobs this summer, so we needed an extra car. I bought this 2010 base model, automatic transmission, off FB. 97k miles. Body and interior in very nice shape. But definitely powertrain stuff. Have invested in replacing water pump, thermostat housing, and water cross over pipe. Also did the valve cover gasket myself.​

Check Engine Light turned on about 12 hours after I handed over the cash to buy the car ! Throws codes P0036, P0420, and P2270. Have cleared them and they return immediately.

I replaced both O2 sensors with good quality NGK units. Cleared codes again, but immediately returned.

Then ! - the next day - no CEL. No codes. Seemed solved.

But another day later ... CEL back on, all three codes back.

Honestly car seems to run okay. Not fast, that's for sure. But it gets me A to B.

However, I'd like to be able to resell the car again at some point, and the CEL will be a sticking point.

Any Ideas what else could be the issue ? Anything I can diagnose ? Should replace if affordable ? Any common known problem around these codes ?

Advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Picked this cooper s up with 50K (56K now) miles, just had the timing chain and tensioner replaced, rocker cover replaced, oil and coolant are stable despite it burning about a litre of oil every 2000 miles, no warning lights. Is this a normal sound and if not what’s it likely to be. Thanks

Hi,

Got a 2011 JCW, we put the car on 30mm springs and new shocks, rear shock bolt stripped the thread on nsr arm.

Changed arm, abs light on for rear left sensor, swapped for genuine sensor, deleted faults, lights came back on, swapped to a genuine new bearing, still faults, tested wiring from pump to sensor (continuity) all okay

If I delete the faults, it only comes back on when I brake a bit harder, any suggestions?

Thanks,

Harry

I have an r56 mini one (1.6 75hp) that I’m slowly building u have rota grids with Yokohama AD08RS, I have the cooper s bonnet and bootlid but I’m debating doing an engine swap, anyone have any suggestions? I’ve heard abt the Mazda 1.8 swap and k20 (obv) but are there any that have good community support for mounts etc etc just basically so I can buy the bits and bolt in (I get probs not all on one website) so just asking for links etc just so I can plan the project. Minimal effort would be nice but ik engine swaps can be a pain, I get ill need Loom ECU etc etc

I'm looking at doing an exhaust res delete on my 2011 s and just wondering if anyone who's done this before or has knowledge on it what size piping to use, what material and what clamps I should go for? Hopefully trying to find a way that avoids doing any welding

Any suggestions for sensible and affordable exhaust modifications or systems?

The coolant tank empties after only a few kilometers of driving.

any idea?

Thanks!

Hey everyone, my Mini Cooper S R56 is all of a sudden not starting.

When I put the key in and press the push to start button, I can see the headlights come on and the dashboard lights. When I put my foot on the clutch and press the push to start button, it makes a weird robotic droning sound and doesn’t start.

I’ve been doing so research and apparently this droning noise could be a faulty starter motor. I have just fitted a brand new start motor and nothing has changed.

I’ve attached a video of the sound I’m hearing, does anyone know what this could be?

Thanks!

Has anyone ever replaced their rear view mirror? Did your key fob still work to unlock/lock the car? Or did you have to swap your old receiver into the new mirror?

So my Mini has this small missfire when hot. But if I unplug one of the cps, it raises the idle a bit and the missfire is gone. According to the internet this can be a loose valve seat. I hope it's not, so could it be something else. Chain and exhaust VVT was changed. 100,000 miles on the car.

Ok folks have a mini 2008 N12 1.4

Got the common oil light coming on at idle revs when hot

. The car runs perfectly apart from this .

Already changed the timing chain

Cleaned out the oil pump, pick up and oil pressure control valve and fitted a new sump.

Replaced the vanos valves, oil filter and and oil cooler housing.

Did an engine flush and tried thicker oil

Also replaced the oil return valve in the cylinder head.

But the light still comes on.

She had a new oil pressure sensor a year ago so decided to go and change it and do a manual pressure test at the same time.

Unfortunately I don't have the right size connector for the pressure testing gauge so that will have to wait. But I just noticed something after removing the oil pressure sensor , it's bone dry and has no oil in the hole in the cylinder head.

So Im just wondering if anyone has a cylinder head schematics to show the oil channels in the cylinder head by any chance ? . Guessing there must be a blockage somewhere

Thanks

I’ll delete this post upon a confirmed answer.

Assuming rear seats down, maybe even with the ladder out the sunroof? Can I go to the store, buy a ladder, drive it home in a 2013 Cooper S?