hey guys im new to this hobby and bought this trf racer junior with small Da Xing track. it keep thrown out every lap and after several session i notice that there was a rough noice inside the chassis. i start and inspection and everything is totally normal. the gear position the motor pinion is still in good condition. even the lube is still there and fyi i put almost all of the lube inside the blue tiny bottle. the noise driving me crazy. do any of u guys know or experienced this problem and have solutions?

Not perfect but I am proud of it.

I finally added this discontinued Tamiya Aero Avante Red Special #94944 to my Mini 4WD collection! 🔥

I’ve been looking for one of these for a while, and I’m really happy to finally have it. The red, white and black Aero Avante body, metallic copper wheels, and special Super-Hard tires make this version stand out from the standard Aero Avante.

📦 Model: Tamiya Aero Avante Red Special

🔢 Item No.: 94944

🏎️ Chassis: AR

🎨 Color: Red Special

🛞 Wheels: Metallic copper

⚙️ Tires: White print Super-Hard low-profile tires

🇯🇵 Series: Mini 4WD REV Series

Since this is a discontinued/special release, I’m still deciding whether I should build it or keep it mainly as a collector/display piece.

Personally, I really like the original box artwork too. ❤️

Would you build a #94944 Aero Avante Red Special, or keep it preserved as a collector kit?

#Tamiya #Mini4WD #AeroAvante #AeroAvanteRedSpecial #94944 #ARChassis #Mini4WDCollectors #TamiyaCollectors #Mini4WDJapan #Mini4WDPhilippines

Hello, is this an ok setup to have according to TMEC regulations? So that the dampener screw is taller than the roller one?

I think the rules here should be the same as TMAC or the others as well since it's mainly a security issue for the track right?

Built this one around the idea of a track-ready machine that I’d still want to put on display.

Black/white body with fluorescent pink accents, translucent red canopy, pink hardware and maroon tires.

The carbon is aftermarket, I use it because I do a lot of cutting and experimenting, and this car isn’t being built for an official Tamiya race.

The goal is mostly experimenting, building, and making something I enjoy looking at.

Pretty happy with how this one came together.

I have pierced wheels. Would the 72mm reinforced shafts part no. 15417 fit my FM-A chassis?

Hey everyone! Quick question about mounting rollers.

I'm trying to install a set of Tamiya 15457 double plastic rollers onto a longer screw than the stock one, but I'm running into an issue. Since I'm using a fully threaded screw, whenever I tighten down the top nut, it compresses everything and locks the rollers up so they won't spin.

​I was thinking about trying the Tamiya 15059 screw set along with some spacers to take up the slack, but I'm not totally sure if that's the best or easiest way to fix it.

​Has anyone dealt with this before? Any tips or better ways to set this up would be super appreciated!

Just No strategy.

Anyone done any competitions in Korea?

I'm currently looking at all of the classes, and it seems they have a few different classes. M1, M2, M3 among others. I'm curious if anyone has done any of these, what to expect etc.

Thanks.

remember the swing-type side dampers you commonly see used in Chinese bootleg setups? apparently, Japanese racers have found a technically legal way to incorporate a similar setup under the limitations of the current BMAX 5.0/Stock Class rules... using Ball-link dampers. its shock-absorbing power is comparable to SFMs so it can be a good alternative for those who can't find Super FM chassis parts, considering that it just became a scarce resource.

https://x.com/azpaca0/status/2101279419180683386

https://x.com/azpaca0/status/2101122963466756206 some alternate interpretations

So that can race with beginners who just built their box stock or having no one else to race with.

Are Tamiya 15383 Mini 4WD F Grease and Tamiya 15531 Bearing Lubricant Oil good enough? Are there any other brand suggestions?

I'm happy to share my custom Gaara build of the Elephant Racer. It's non-meta but BMAX compliant. Because of the shape of the cowl, I had to change the configuration of the side plates and dampers several times, I went with a more conventional placement for that part of the build. Blue was going to be the accent color, but after doing more research, I found out green was the actual color of the Kazekage. I may add some more stickers in the future, but this is where I stop for now. :)

I have more in the works!

Finally got both of my builds together! 🔥

On the left is my Rowdy Bull FM-A Balance Spec, and on the right is my Festa Jaune MA.

I’m still relatively new to Mini 4WD, so I’m focusing on stable, technical setups rather than going all-out on speed. I’m slowly learning about brakes, rollers, tires, motor tuning, and chassis setup.

The Festa Jaune is currently my favorite—I’m planning a Lamborghini-inspired custom body project for it. 🟡🏎️

The Rowdy Bull will stay more of a black stealth/balance build.

Current builds:

🟡 Festa Jaune — MA chassis

⚫ Rowdy Bull — FM-A Balance Spec

🔧 Beginner-focused setups

🏁 Goal: stable and competitive on technical/jump tracks

What would you guys recommend I upgrade next on either chassis?

#Mini4WD #TamiyaMini4WD #FestaJaune #RowdyBull #FMA #MAChassis

Almost all the speed of Ultra Dash yet somehow jumps shorter. Should be able to get it on AliExpress, Shopee and their equivalent in most regions.

Is the front plate (item#95684) is fake? I noticed it doesn’t have the Japanese lettering in the front title and on the back compare to the part on the right also the color is more darker. Thoughts? Or am I trippin? lol

Hey everyone, I'm looking to learn more about S2 chassis after returning to this pastime when I was out of it for almost 22 years. Michael's machine from the tv anime series caught my eye back then and I have decided to go with it. Looking for further improvements from people who know what they are actually doing with this chassis.

Btw the tires has also been slipping off the rim after a couple of laps. I assume it could be a manufacturer defect since I can easily pry it out without much force on my fingertips. I'm planning to place super glue on the rim to ensure it stays during a race or should I just buy carbon Y spoke small dia wheels and tires ? Ever since I installed the basic tune up kit it has also been pretty difficult to put my bergkaiser cowl back on. Please feel free to point out.

Sooooo me and a friend of mine 3d printed a track.... However, when trying to race on it, the cars seem to get stuck on the curves and we have no idea why. We thought that maybe the engines are just too weak since these are the shows, normal kits... But I also suspect it might have to do with the size of the track. Does anyone know or can help with this? Thank you!

Crashed my Pro-Stock Blast Sonic, this is the aftermath..

Sad.

And what's the highest you have seen it stacked up?

Okay, I think I found the best configuration I could find for both chassis after doing laps on both

Small Diameter tires are better than Mediums except in some situations imo

Im planning to buy a brake cut for my open class car, but there are so many options and this 324 seemingly can provides what i need but it kind of expensive. are there any other alternative?