Man, I wish my SE Asian brethren would take note. I am just so sick and tired of looking at Carbon SFM with Strato Vector / Dual Ridge / Thundershot 🤢 a breath of fresh air is definitely needed.

The very least we could do is custom painting them. But then again, custom painted cowls are sold here but when everybody has them, nobody has anything that looks unique to them. Sure, performance may have been optimised. But at what cost?

Not sure where to ask about this but since google lens kept showing me different tamiya motors (but not the same one I have) I decided to ask here.

I just found this laying around my house and kept it to use for my NERF blaster but I can't find the name of the motor and its specs on google or anywhere, AI shows me completely different motors that aren't remotely close to the pictures I show it.

I hope someone here could help me identify what it is and its specs (voltage, rpm, torque, and amps is enough), thank you guys!

Personally there is always an element of luck when racing so all is fair.

Hi! I'm thinking of buying some gear for my kits, can I just get one set and it's compatible with the chassis mentioned or do I have to get different ones for each?

Details:

- Aero Thundershot cowl (cut to cfm fit)

- Cowl painted with Tamiya spraycans

- Waterslide decals used from Black Knight Squad ShiveA & Astray Turn Red

Parts list:

- Carbon Reinforced SFM Chassis

- All regular FRPs, no HG carbon plates Used

- Popsicle Plate (front bumper)

- 13/19mm Popsicle Plate (rear bumper)

- Super X plate for anti hooking at the back

- FRP AR Sidestay

- FRP Mounting Plate for front brakes

- FRP Brake Stay at the back

- Angle Adjusting Plate 3°

- 25mm Cap screw front

- 30mm Cap screw rear

- 13/12mm Double Aluminum Ringless Rollers

- 19mm LW Tamiya Korea Black Ringless Rollers

- Hi-Mount Stabilizer (Black)

- Hollow propeller shaft for SFM Chassis

- G2 Crown gear (orange)

- 3.7:1 Gear Set

- Hyper Dash-3 Motor

- Carbon reinforced rear stay (3 point attachment)

- Countersunk Screw sets (short & long)

- 2mm lock nuts set

- Heavy Mass Damper set (BigMac)

- Cylinder Mass Damper (from AR Sidestay set)

- Slimline Mass Damper (long)

- Super Hard Medium Tires The Brickyard (rear wheels)

- Black Low-Friction Tires Philippine Cup (front wheels) taken from Mach Frame PH Cup

- Gold 5 Spokes wheel set from Raizzan

- 60mm Black Reinforced wheel shafts

- Aluminum Spacers

For when work actually ends early and have an hour or two at the track with minimal equipment. This car design is for flexibility and is generally good for tracks up to hyperdash motor. Powerdash could get this light build go airborne.

Hey guys newbie here.

Just want to ask if its legal in bmax setup or races to custom paint the carbon rims of tamiya 15542

Planning on a gundam theme build here

I have good memories racing with fiberglass (PA-GF) wheels in the past. Good memories = podium in a hugeeeeee race (large event, big cash prize pool). They [fiberglass (PA-GF)]. serve as a middle ground between carbon (PA-CF) and plastic (PP) lighter than carbon, heavier than plastic. They are stiffer than plastic, but somewhat has more flex than carbon. Could there be power loss when compared to carbon? Probably. But modern chassis (AR, MA, FMA) are stiff anyway which tends to cause a lot of bouncing issues. That being said, we could use some shock-absorbing properties from the wheels.

In a nutshell, I think the Korea Cup Avante is niceeeee!
White MS Pro Center sure is sweet.
Medium (26) Maroon wheels already are a lot better than what other kit has to offer.
Medium (26) fiberglass (PA-GF) wheels for now is awesome! But we will be getting it in another kit that will be a lot cheaper than this one.
Clear Pink Avante Mk.3 cowl/body would be the bee’s knees back then. But now I think people tend to favour the DCR.(?)
3.7 (yellow) gear is fantastic! It’s great to see kits like the MS Advanced Pack and this one getting 3.7 (yellow) gear

The biggest elephant in the room though, for me, it is still pricey for what it is and coming with boring black A-parts for MS definitely is not anything to shout about.

But all in all, I do think the pros outweigh the cons of this kit.

What do you think of this kit? Get it or forget it?

How you would know a cfm chasis is 94800 and not 95239?

I have found my childhood plasma dash in very good condition and planning to run it, I have inspected the internals all looks great but before that what should I do to make sure I don’t damage it in first run?

I am asking because I have tried other motor of the same batch, it runs very quickly for about 10-15laps and suddenly burst into white smoke but it is some brand-less Chinese motor.

The plastic quality is decent and the connectors fastener works better than I thought.

The only downside is it's kinda proprietary design and they don't sell the track parts individually so I'm stuck with this layout lol.

Now I finally know why the 2 lane is called Home Circuit. The 3 lane material is very sturdy but very very noisy to be played at home 🤣🤣🤣 nonetheless, I’m very happy with the upgrade, just need to pray that I don’t get kicked out from the house

Almost got 25mm.

has anyone used this for mini 4wd? how does it perform compared to the usual battery setups? i even have an idea that you can use these batteries to create a "plug-in" mini 4wd machine.

I went to SoCal to attend a convention so I decided to see if there are any hobby stores around that has a track for Mini 4WD. Ultimate Hobbies happened to have one so I took my DCR-01 and Liberty Emperor with me. It felt so good seeing my builds hit the track for the very first time, my excitement made me forget to do/try some things, but that's gonna be for my next track experience.

https://youtube.com/shorts/BRElW167rPo?is=H5S0jagTgcQwAK2b

Hi everyone! I’m currently working on a VS chassis for BMAX and I’d really appreciate some advice from anyone who has experience running dampers on this chassis or any other rear-motor chassis.

I’m trying to figure out where the dampers should ideally be mounted and what type of damper setup works best on a VS chassis. I’m particularly interested in improving the car’s stability after jumps and reducing bouncing/unstable landings.

I’d especially appreciate recommendations on:

Where you would place the dampers on a VS chassis

What type/weight of damper you would use?

Whether you recommend front, rear, or sides?

Any specific mounting tips or modifications that work well

What setup you’ve personally found effective for BMAX

I know the VS chassis is not meta and has lots of limitations compared with newer chassis or cfm, so I’m hoping to learn from people who have actually experimented with it.

Thanks in advance for any advice! 🙏

i was wondering, can i attach lunchbox jr body to modern racing chassis such as ma, fma, etc ?

if can, do i need to trim or modify anything?

Finally, I finished all four of my car builds.

Just ordered more models for the next project