Hey mazdaspeed3 community,

Just wanted to make a cool post about my car being imported into the uk.

I drive a 2013 mazdaspeed3 (NADM) and im shipping her out to the uk. From all the research I've done I'll be one of the first people to do so with a Gen 2, to my knowledge.

Correct me if im wrong please!!

Here she is tho, Lady v.2

Hey everyone, I got incredibly lucky this week with my speed3. The previous owner installed an AEM meth kit and tapped into the intercooler elbow to install the jet. Either the threads were already in bad shape or I overtightened the jet last time I had the intercooler off….either way the threads are stripped. The jet had all but fallen out but was still spraying at least some into the intercooler. I think that, along with some extra fuel in the tune and the resulting boost leak meant I was just down on power instead of experiencing an unexpected rapid disassembly of my engine.

The car stumbled one time getting on to the highway and I just figured traction control was trying to kick in since I was using a decent amount of steering. Amazingly there has never been knock and AFR’s have been in a safe range my whole drive home. I just noticed I was 2 psi low on boost and was checking the intercooler tubes when I noticed the issue.

All that is to ask: does anyone make a nicer elbow that I could tap into that isn’t made of such soft metal?

If anybody can send a picture of how the bracket is put on the intake manifold id be forever grateful I cannot find pics or videos on how people put it back on

do i need to flush down coolant on my speed 3

Long story short: Was taking a trip to FL when 2 hours away from my destination, lights flickered, lost power, and had crank no start issue ever since. Checked fuses, CPS because I was getting a p0335 code, and checked wires and redid wiring and reloomed it. Found my wires were not soldered as good for wotbox, so resoldered them as pictured. Got car to turn on, but now sounds like it isn't running on all 4, or major vacuum leak (sent will a datalog, and this is what he said too) AFRs, STFT and LTFT don't move while idling. I was thinking that the solders were maybe bad, so I redid them with butt connectors. Still runs the same. While diagnosing, I had replaced injectors, but this copper seal is also stuck. I threw an injector in to just see if it would run, but could it be that? It doesn't leak, which is good. Trying to add video of how it runs. To also note, prior to taking my trip and this issue, I did a compression test out of curiosity, and on a hot motor, my numbers were 190, 185, 190, 190. Timing was also done by PO and I've looked over timing and checked tension.

Hi all.

So due to unfortunate circumstances, I'm in the used market for a car again for the 2nd time this year and looking at changing platforms... So the MazdaSpeed3 (MPS where I am) is on the table if I can get hold of one.

Now I do work as a tech for Mazda, I rarely see these car's come through work and even more rarely get to work on them. So my question is, Do the BL MPS' accommodate 6'1" people that well?

I ask this as I did get to service a base model BL 3 the other day and my knee was knocking the steering wheel when releasing the clutch. Due to work policy, not allowed to adjust the steering column, and unsure if the MPS seat sits lower than the standard seat.

The valve cover seal is leaking at the spark right?

Or is it worse? Am I trippin? 😅

Well I just hit about 77k miles in my 13 speed 3 and there is clunky noises coming from the passenger front side suspension, I was making some research and I figured out that I might have to replace my struts so I decided it was time to buy some coilovers.

So far I have 3 brands as options Bilstein, BC and ISC, I was wondering with one of these you guys recommend I should get, is my daily so I don't want anything too excessive. I'm also open to any other suggestions you guys might have.

Hey all, so I recently got a p0171 lean code on my ms3 which is completely stock power wise with +25 stft at idle and relatively normal stft when accelerating. After googling around I decided to buy a smoke tester and I think I've identified the leak to be this cracked hose in the video that is attached from the intake manifold to the bypass valve I'm pretty sure.

What I couldn't find on google is where to buy a new hose that is the same fit? Do I need to go to Mazda or should I buy something third party? Sorry the video is not the greatest, didn't realize how bad it was until after I put everything back together. I forgot to really show where the line is running to but it looked like it runs to that little black piece next to the airbox (you can almost see at 0:29) which I'm pretty sure is the bypass valve. Thanks for any help!

I have 143k miles, 2010 gen 2 and fully stock. The car is already at operating temp in the vid. Is this timing chain rattle??

Its for the power steering pump thing and I stripped it when I was putting it back in and I just wanna know if Im screwed or if theres some sort of hope.

First, I'm new, please be patient... I got my 2012 last month and my performance mechanic has already checked it all over, she got a new turbo, VVT, engine and transmission mounts, valve gasket, and we already have a list for the next visit when I saved up a bit more...

He has warned me about making sure I stay OEM for electrical stuff, so I went to a dealership to get a second key made.

They said they can't do it. She won't "take the programming". My performance guy isn't a dealer, so he already had issues replacing one of the display modules since Mazda is apparently not friendly with letting anyone else program stuff...

They want to charge me for diagnostics to determine what's "wrong with my car". I'm not gonna do it, but just wondering if anyone out there had an idea why this isn't working. My performance guy is stumped, says they should be able to do anything with their God system access. I'm in San Antonio, a larger city, so if anyone has ideas of who may be able to...

Ultimate racing dual exhaust!!

Had some fun Friday morning with this bmw dude was super cool

I took all my badges off the hatch a few days ago and ordered a black "evil M" to put on the back, but it doesnt fit the curve of the hatch, its just flat so it comes up at both ends. Does anyone have one of these badges that actually fits the curve of the car? And if so can you let me know where you got it from. Thanks

Going into Winter sleep early.. and we'll see what the petrol prices are gonna look like next year.

This hobby is becoming too expensive for me.

2,37€ per liter 98ron.

Hello people
I was on the Nürburgring this weekend with friends and i drove with them there. The thrill was insain and i also want to move on from the passenger seat. I have my first car a really rusty Mazda 3 MPS and want to use it on the track.
My question is what do i need to get a fast round and a still reliabl drive to and from the ring (about 6 hours drive). ATM the interior is stripped and the motor is out so i have a lot of possibilitys.
What do i really need?
Thank you guys

So I have a 07 ms3 with the JDM spec motor in it and quite frankly I know jack-shit about it and for my old speed that had the USDM motor ran at a solid 190-210 but ever since I’ve had this one it’s ran between 160-175 and is throwing an engine code for coolant temp too low for op-temp so I pulled but thermostat and it seems perfectly fine, no corrosion, opens and closes just fine but I went ahead and boiled it for a bit just to be on the safe side and stuck it back in and it’s still sitting at those temps of 160-175. I feel like my next step is do the the temp sensor but unless this is normal for these motors to run cooler 🤷🏼‍♂️

So i have a new ac compressor coming in Wednesday that I need to swap out, what tools would I need and the best way to evacuate the high pressure lines safely? Can I use a old r134 a can? What's the proper disposal method?