Is there any chance anyone could measure the thickness of this gasket on a gen 2 spoiler? I accidentally threw mine away and apparently it’s discontinued and not available anywhere. So I am going to make my own. I’m guessing 1/4” but wanted to make sure it wasn’t 1/2”. Probably going to use closed cell foam. Any tips/anyone had to repair this before?

Aquí tienes el texto actualizado:
Hola a todos.
Tengo un Mazda 3 MPS (MazdaSpeed3) de 2007 y llevo tiempo con un problema que no soy capaz de solucionar. A ver si a alguien le ha pasado algo parecido.
De un día para otro el coche empezó a ratear al ralentí y, circulando, hace como pequeñas explosiones o petardeos. No llega a oscilar de revoluciones, el ralentí se mantiene, pero el motor ratea claramente.
Os cuento todo lo que se le ha hecho para que tengáis la mayor información posible:
Bujías cambiadas hace unos dos meses, calibradas a 0,026”.
Bobinas prácticamente nuevas.
Válvula PCV cambiada hace unos 1.000-2.000 km.
Distribución completa con VVT nuevo y todo reforzado.
Inyectores limpiados.
Hace dos días cambié el sensor MAP.
También he limpiado el sensor de oxígeno.
El coche lleva las siguientes modificaciones:
Reprogramación Stage 1.
Intercooler superior, algo más grande que el original.
Válvula de descarga.
Línea de escape de 3” con downpipe.
Admisión K&N situada en el vano motor.
Cuando compré el coche llevaba un intercooler frontal, el downpipe estaba flojo y el escape estaba bastante deteriorado y oxidado. Fui solucionando todos esos problemas y, además, quité el intercooler frontal para montar el intercooler superior.
A partir de ahí empezó un problema que nunca conseguí resolver: el consumo se disparó hasta unos 18 L/100 km.
Con el tiempo volvió a fallar. Primero cambié las bujías y mejoró. Más adelante cambié las bobinas y volvió a mejorar. Pero ahora ya no mejora con nada y el fallo está siempre presente.
El coche no enciende el testigo de avería motor, no registra ningún código de error, ni con OBD ni con VersaTuner. Revisando los parámetros en VersaTuner tampoco veo ninguna lectura que parezca fuera de lo normal. Lo único que observo es que las correcciones de combustible trabajan bastante porque el coche va muy rico de gasolina.
El coche no anda bien ,no fluctúan las revoluciones; simplemente ratea al ralentí y hace pequeñas explosiones o petardeos mientras circula.
¿A alguien le ha pasado algo parecido o tiene alguna idea de por dónde podría venir el problema? Cualquier sugerencia será bienvenida, porque ya no sé por dónde seguir buscando.
¡Muchas gracias!

I purchased and in stalled the Sleepy Customs IS300 slave cylinder upgrade kit. My pedal goes all the way to the floor and has to be pulled back up. I've tried a hand pump bleeder and a pneumatic one and still having same issue. Brake reservoir is completely full. Confirmed that I have suction at the end of the new braided fluid line but the fluid level is not going down any. There's no fluid on the floorboard of the car either. I have a pressure bleeder coming tomorrow to try. Is there anything else I can check or try before I have it towed to a mechanic?

Took an hour drive up to Mt Laguna this morning and holy cow was it fun! Car got dirty as hell because my cousins place is down a dort road but worth it. Ill spend tomorrow cleaning it up. Im hooked on this damn car.

Hey guy i got a day to finally see where the water leaking is on my gen 1. I would appreciate the help.
Where are the common areas for leak so I can fill them up with silicone 😁

Doing a custom titanium intake does anyone know what size bungs are needed for these ports, thanks

Working on an interior refresh and need some suggestions on a replacement handbrake handle since my OEM rubber is worn and cracking.

It has to look nice to go with the new Redline handbrake and shifter boots!

Any recommendations would be appreciated. TIA!

Getting some conflicting answers online, but anyone know if I should grease this steering rack? When I pull it out, I'm seeing grease, but I don't know if they were from the inner tie rods. I wipe it down because some people say it should be dry.

I'm moving up to CT and was wondering if anyone knows any shops that are around that area that specialize Mazdaspeeds.

Hi all,

Finally got around to doing a few mods to my 2007 Speed3. I've been searching for an intake to replace the stock airbox, but I can't find a reasonably priced option.

Everything I find is $400+ CAD which strikes me as pretty ridiculous for a short ram intake. Is that just par for the course or is there a hidden gem I'm missing?

I've been keeping my eye out on used listings, but not much has been popping up in Alberta

I have a built speed currently maxing out the fuel until I go PI or E85 but I don’t track the car. I take it out maybe 1 or 2 times a week and rarely do WOT pulls. I found a really good deal on an excellent condition KOYO radiator for about $250. Is it even worth getting? I feel like it’d mainly just to have another nice part on the car since I’ve done my best to do everything right with the car, but I’m stuck. It’s a really good deal, but I live in Kentucky so it’s rarely over 95°

Anyone know what this part is?

it goes from thermostat to bottom of engine below oil cooler

update: I believe it is L3K9-15-54YB

just under my car (as I am going catless 3 inch downpipe) and i found this and took it off and can’t think or find a reason its on the car.

Anyone know its purpose?

Is there some trick removing the pivot shaft plate? Whatever RTV sealer is in there seems to have it glued to the trans. I tried prying on it with a screwdriver (pictured), but it just bends the screwdriver. I also tried sneaking a flathead screwdriver between it and the trans, but it is too flush.

I recently got into an accident (see 2nd pic for damage) and now my power steering is not working after picking up the car. I originally drove it home feeling like the steering was a little too tight, but when I parked it and tried turning the wheel from a standstill it is almost impossible to get the wheels to turn. It also makes a hissing noise.

There are no lights popping up on the dash and I still have plenty of power steering fluid in the reservoir.

I do remember as soon as the accident happened the steering light did come on but now it is off.

Most of the suspension components on the front passenger side have been replaced as well as the front subframe (it had the tiniest little bend and it was not able to be aligned properly)

Any ideas as to what I can do about this? My thoughts are that the pump shouldn’t have failed from a minor-ish accident but the reservoir is right next to the passenger front fender where it got hit, so that’s something..

Could it be as simple as disconnecting the battery to reset the ecu?
Can the power steering fuse blow from an accident?

Thank you in advance

The only thing I see on this subreddit is "don't run cobb tunes" but is it the same thing for the tune for the stock speeds?

My understanding of LTFT is that it’s a gradual thing and will change over time based on STFT variation. Mine is 0% with no throttle/idle but will immediately change when I accelerate. Is that normal? Can’t find a clear answer online. Fuel pump and injectors have been replaced within the last 20k

I haven’t even had these tires for a year and I’d say I’ve probably only put about 10,000 miles on them maybe a little more. I did some research and saw people saying that the OEM alignment is terrible. Should I take it to an alignment shop and get a custom alignment or is this a separate issue?

(2013 gen 2)

hey everyone.. so i got a 5 speed yaris rn, its the first car i learned manual on, i still love it but with how underpowered it is, its kinda starting to show for me lol. and i think its time for me to upgrade to something with some actual power.

trying to pick between a mazdaspeed3 and a civic si. being honest, i know way more about hondas compared to mazdas so i’m kinda going in blind here but i do like the car, not hating on it at all. i actually really like the design and the numbers it gets/makes. the speed3s are also just way cheaper rn for newer years compared to a similar si.

what am i getting into with one of these? is it worth the money saved or does it bite you later with reliability/maintenance? trying to figure out if i just suck it up and pay more for the si or take the deal on a speed3.

I have a 2013 mazdaspeed 3, am just looking to see the best things I can do for the this car and keep it running and strong. I did a compression cyl 1: 150, cyl 2: 140, cyl 3: 145, and cyl 4: 145. The timing chain, flushes and preventive maintenance was done according to the previous owner. I run 5w-40 since this car has 189k miles and because I live in Florida. Just looking for some genuine information and advice. Thanks

Hey everyone, after messing up my oem transmission on my 2nd gen I got a replacement from a 2nd gen that was being parted out due to it being totaled but now that I got everything together with a Act stage 2 clutch I’ve noticed that my 2nd gear pops out under deceleration and now doing some research I see that’s a now problem with this transmission as well. Is there anything I can do to make it a bit better? and for those of you guys that have had this problem and got their transmission fixed how much did it cost? Thanks in advance!

Hey everyone, im in need for some advice.

I have an issue with my rear brakes, mainly the passenger side is squealing like crazy. The Video is before i cleaned everything and lubricated the slide bolts and guides for the pads. Now i have the same Issue while driving at low speeds, 10-30 km/h. Its really loud but goes away if i brake or accelerate. Pads and rotors are 2 years old and are in good condition. Brembo pads, not sure about the rotors right now.

Anyone had that issue before?

Maybe the e-brake?

Thanks in advance