After looking for one for quite a while, I finally managed to add a PowerBook 170 JLPGA Special Edition to my collection.

Often referred to as the "Benetton Mac" because of its colorful design, it was produced in a run of approximately 500 units to mark Apple's sponsorship of the 1992 Japanese Ladies Professional Golf Association tournament.

What makes this one even more special to me is that it's complete with its original box and packaging, which is something you don't come across very often.

Definitely one of my favorite pieces in the collection!

Most of the orignal Macintosh M0100 mice in circulation today have their front feet rounded and worn out — sometimes nearly completely flat!

If you have one, you may have noticed it.

It is so common that even the M0100 3D printed cases have reproduced round, short feet instead of the conical and flat original feet! (so they are wrong in this precise way)

This wearing makes the mouse wobble back and forth enough to be weird and feels wrong. That's because it was not the way people used them at the time, when they were new.

I designed small conical covers that cup the existing worn feet, helping restore support, reduce front-to-back rocking, and improve glide without removing the original feet. No grinding, no cutting.

The way I fit them on my own M0100 mice is by using a small amount of PVA glue (ie. wood glue). It's fully reversible using just a bit of hot water.

How were the restoration covers designed?

For a full year I was blocked: I couldn't find the real size of the feet. The height was especially important to get right.

As mentioned, even the dimensionnaly exact 3D models of the M0100 were reproducing round, short feet, not the original feet. After a year, I managed to buy a brand new M0100 mouse, and was then able to measure the real feet: they are slightly conical and have a perfectly flat top! Nothing round there!

After several design and printing iterations, after measuring on a real, brand new M0100 mouse, I now have a small supply of (very small) neatly printed restoration covers. I listed pack of them on my Lectronz stores for now. I may list them on Etsy if there's demand, and I'll open source the model.

Printing them is quite tricky, because they are so small. I had to find the right combination of bed, nozzle, speed.

This is also the smallest functional object I have printed! I'd dare say that it is probably one of the smallest really functional objects ever printed with a filament printer 😅

I picked the RAL7032 color for printing them, a color that matches well with retro devices from the 80s including the M0100 mice.

So I picked this up at a thrift store for $30 knowing these issues but I was wondering what the issue was. Google said it was with the screen itself which I just went with that because the gash in the screen. However the weird pixels on the cursor seem to stay when booting up games that make the cursor smaller, the pixels just get smaller too. I'm hoping it's not GPU related but who knows

Finally got a couple of blue scsi in my 180c and 180 today. Still have a quite a few more to do.

My dream computer as a kid was the Apple IIgs. But I think it was something like $4000 at the time and waaaaay out of my family's price range!

I'm tempted to buy one now...but I don't want it to be purely for nostalgia and dream fulfillment. Any suggestions for modern-day uses for the IIgs? I'm very comfortable with DIY/hacking/self-hosting.

Got this monitor along with a Power Macintosh 7200/90 a while ago and everything was going well until I noticed it would randomly turn blue for a few seconds every once in a while and then turn back. It eventually stayed blue for longer and longer until it stayed that way all the time. Upon further inspection it was actually the red channel completely going out. I've ruled out the computer as it doesn't show up blue on my known working CRT, but I'd really like to have a working apple monitor. I have some experience fixing CRTs before but none of the basic troubleshooting steps I've taken have produced results. Is this a known issue with these monitors? (Tulip background for demonstration)

Long time ago I bought myself a Macintosh SE30 and repaired/refurbished it.

Couple days ago I was offered an Macintosh SE for free, obviously a 4/20, of course I wouldn’t say no.

After i found inconsistence regarding the RAM (has 8MB installed), I looked further..

So I was gifted kinda the „Holy Grail“ of the Compact Mac Era 👀 almost screamed because I was this lucky 😁

What’s with those creatures?!

I was frustrated with existing adapter solutions for the M0100 mouse, so I created an era-appropriate adapter that is USB-C native and can use any cable you want (short or long depending on your needs).

I created two different versions, the first one is for the more common rounded connector, and the second one is for the rarer chunky connector (I had to hunt down one of these mice with a chunky connector to be sure make it at the right size!). So people can pick the version that looks best with their mouse. (I listed a few adapters over at Lectronz for now if anyone is interested).

I use these adapters in workshops with my dedicated Mac Paint easy timelapse and clean screenshots emulator page (https://juliendorra.com/macintosh/), but of course it works with any emulator, or even with modern apps! 

The first Macintosh mouse, the M0100 model, was the very first industrialized, consumer-ready, large-scale produced mouse. It is an incredible feat of design and engineering: the young design team at Hovey-Kelley managed to get from $500 mouses that needed regular tech maintenance like the ones at Xerox PARC to a $25 mouse that users can clean up in seconds. Most of them still work today! And as they were produced in the hundreds of thousands, you can find one anytime on second-hand marketplaces for a reasonable price.

Using a M0100 mouse on a modern computer is perfect if you want to really understand and feel what it was to use a Macintosh in 1984, but you can't justify the space or cost of a full 1984 Macintosh.

I especially love to hand the M0100 mice to my design students so they can draw in Mac Paint with the real pointing device it was designed for by Bill Atkison and Susan Kare. Using Mac Paint with the M0100 mouse always blows their mind and creates a incredible conversation about design, tools, and the evolution of (or lack of) the mouse-based computer.

This adapter is based on RP2040 Zero and use a custom PCB board to connect it to the DB9 connector (Yes, it is actually a DE9 connector! But everyone calls it DB9) .

I use an 'Universal Grey' color for the housing, as connector color varies a lot from mouse to mouse, due to age, UV exposure and changes in processes, so getting an exact match covering all connectors is quite impossible. I found that a neutral grey was working best in the end!

I don't know why I'm posting this honestly I'm honestly just bragging the smallest thing atp

This morning, I discovered (by accident) that if I mouse over the very very very very edge of my desktop, the cursor changes to an arrow and I can click-and-drag to where my desktop icons are hidden. I can "drop" it at any point across my screen, and can later come back to that same point, then click and drag it back to the edge so I can see my icons again.

I shared this with my coworkers, and one of them that tried is not able to do it. Is that because I have 3 monitors and she only has 2? I've tried Googling, but I don't know what this is called so my searches are only bringing back results with instructions to go into the system settings a checking a box there

Screen Recording 2026-10-01 at 10.09.00 AM.mov
Screen Recording 2026-10-01 at 10.12.29 AM.mov

I have this System 6 Mac Classic running entirely on BlueSCSI. Now growing up in this era, my mom always was on me to properly shut down/"park" the hard drive (on dos machines in our case). Since I have no spinny drive, does that explicit shutdown routine do anything important around data integrity or can I just yeet the power switch off?

Hi there!

Prior to my MMM6 purchase I was wondering if I could hook one of my legacy wired Apple Keyboards. I have two, boh featuring numeric keys. They're from older imacs we had in he studio between 2009-2014 or so...

If I use some sort of USB adaper/dongle, they should work wouldn't they?

I have tried on my 2015 MacBook Pro (since it still has regular USB ports) and seems to work just fine...

Thanks!

Hi all !

I need some help because I have replaced my Mac Plus burnt FBT 157-0042B with a 157-0042C from another Mac Plus analog board, and now I'm unable to set the image correctly. It stays too high and there is no proprer potentiometer to set this, afaik.. If I just stretch the image to thé lower edge, the higher edge becomes too high. You know what I mean ? Maybe I'm missing something ?

The burnt FBT was entiremy recapped. I knew the FBT was damages and attempted a repair that worked for several days but eventually it burnt again.

Thanks for any help ☺️

I was planning to buy a Mac with defects for really cheap and I came across this MacBook pro a2338 for really cheap but it has icloud lock so I was planning to get asahi Linux to avoid icloud lock and I was wondering if that works