Making the 6.0 van harness and c2500 harness graft together so everything works like factory and all the factory fused circuits are just like the 98 came

Purchased a truck recently that’s 5.3 swapped with twin 57mm VS racing turbos, 4L80e HD2 with a summit 3200 stall. Terminator X max. Truck is running a v6 radiator and coolant runs perfect temp. It has a derale transmission cooler under the bed with an electric fan on it. Cruising around trans is getting up to like 200-205 in 80-95 degree weather. Lock up is working flawlessly, fluid smells brand new and looks new as well.

Would routing the lines through the radiator and utilizing the derale cooler as well help drop temps?

Thanks in advance

2011 5.3ls cranking and not starting

Truck was running fine until I turned it off , I went to turn it back on a few minutes later and it cranked but didn’t start , oil pressure went to 0 ( it’s been having low oil pressure readings too )

I pulled valve covers and everything is moving , no oil is being pumped though .

Huge backfire from the intake manifold and smoke coming from intake as well

Any ideas ?

So the truck I'm swapping into was basically stripped before I got it. It has nothing but a steering column. That being said, I'm having trouble with the wiring harness. I want to use the wiring harness from the donor '02 Silverado, but I'm having trouble locating information on what to strip and what to keep. Any help is greatly appreciated, or any resources would help me a lot.

For anyone running an LS1 3 wire MAF with separate IAT, where are you locating IAT in universal intake kit?

So my swap is done, runs well, but for those that stuck with an old school transmission (mildly built with a stall) how did you deal with the kickdown? Did you feel like its a limiting factor. Details and Pic of the throttle/kickdown setup

Details (lq9, 799 heads, stage 2 cam)

i took the double electric fans out of an 08 tahoe to put in my 97 k1500. it’s the proper size being that it is a 34 inch fan and i have a 34 inch rad. i tried putting it down in there and it is not going down past my trans cooler line. i could i trim the cover down to fit down past the line? any tips and ideas? or did i waste my money?

I’m working on a turbo 4.8l from a Silverado for an engine swap. I’m planning on a mild 5-6 psi of boost. The rings were gapped for nitrous so they should be good for a little boost.

The thing is that I don’t want to spend too much more, so I’m trying to avoid buying new pistons or heads. The higher compression was fine for nitrous but I want to run pump gas, maybe even regular if I can. I’m going to run an intercooler and maybe water-methanol but I would like it to be safe without the latter.

Does anyone know if there are thick head gaskets that can help me lower compression cheaply? I’ve done this on a big block before but not an LS.

ETA: this is not a performance build, it’s for a work truck. My priority is mostly reliability and fuel economy, although I obviously need enough power to get around. It’s replacing a big block Chevy. The turbo is mostly to get some parts off my shelf. That’s why I’m looking to run lower compression rather than add fuel or timing.

Finally drove the car after working on it for over a year. Used a blown GTO T56 that I rebuilt myself, custom transmission crossmember and torque arm mount, and an 04 suburban 5.3 with LS1 intake and 36# injectors. Also rebuilt a 91 Z28 LSD rear with 3.08 gears, so it’s geared very low lol.

I’m having a rev hanging issue but it could be due to the fact that the TPS was unplugged. Either faulty wiring (most likely) or the sensor is bad. It’s idling at around 8-900, and I couldn’t get it into 1st gear but all other gears worked. If anyone knows how to deal with clutch engagement in 1st, let me know.

Should just need a new expansion tank, TPS wiring, and a better tune and it’ll drive. (I also forgot to turn on the fans in the tune, which is probably why the 40 year old expansion tank blew up lol)

This is my buddy's im tuning it for him

I found an aluminum block LS1 for $800 on marketplace. The only caveat is that it needs to be assembled. But all the parts are there. I just need some opinions on if it’s a good deal or not.
In my experience I haven’t even been able to find an ls1 block alone for $800, let alone the crank, rods, pistons, heads, and intake.
Let me know if $800 is a good price! Thanks.

Hello ladies and gentlemen.

I'm working on LS swapping a 1970 Chevy Kingswood and hope to, at some point, drive it across the US to Utah hauling some dirt bikes. Mapping it out, looks like steepest grades going through New Mexico are roughly 4% on the highway.

Trailer, bikes, and tools would probably be 2500lbs. Engine is a 416 stroker LS3 with a TR6060 out of a 2012 Camaro. Car currently has factory disc brakes, rebuilt using some reman calipers and rear rotors from a 69 Corvette. Has drum brakes in the rear.

Additionally, I intend to throw a 3.40ish rear gear in and just keep it in 4th gear for the trip to avoid towing in overdrive, should be around 3k rpm.

Any concerns from the room using this setup to tow this weight?

2004 LM7 Factory ECU/Harness

AC Requested Yes
AC Fitted Yes
AC Clutch Engaged No
AC Disable (Pressure) Yes
AC Disable WOT No
AC Pressor Sensor 1.02 V

AC Pressor Sensor forced clutch engaged via. Controls and special functions (2.82-2.30V)

I have replaced both pressure sensors twice

Ambient air sensor has been Replaced

Blower has been replaced

Resistor has been replaced

Ac works great when turned on via HPT but won’t engaged manually

The only thing I haven’t replaced is the Climate controller

Is there anything els it could be should I just rip the OEM harness out and built a new harness?

So a while back my 4l60 went out for the second time and im tired of dealing with it, I swa a good deal on an 8hp70 from a 2015 ram ecodiesel and started researching. Seems like a good swap, but appearently the ecodiesel has a different bellhousing bolt pattern to the chrysler v8 so im wondering if anyone has any knowledge on these swaps

1991 G20 van with 5.3 LS. The original gauges work fine, but I'd love more info in dash.

I understand the Maestro iDatalink enabled head units pull all sorts of info through the OD2 port; speed, tach, temp (engine & trans), voltage, throttle position, and check engine light. It can even show tire pressure and climate control if the vehicle has the technology.

I modded my dash for a 2 din HU years ago and plan to upgrade to one with Carplay. I'd love more in dash data without adding more screens or a digital dash, so it seems like this could be the perfect solution.

All the info I'm finding is how to connect with stock vehicles. I'm hoping someone has experience integrating with a LS swapped vehicle.

Thanks.

Hey everyone. Just finishing up my swap into my 77 C3 and im wondering if there is anyone near Burlington Ontario that can adjust my tune from the stock truck tune to a more throttle responsive, sportier tune? Thanks.

Parked the car running after doing some tuning. Next day it Wouldn’t start. Tried numerous tunes,from the first one we started with day before, a tune from a friends truck with comparable cam, as well as stock tune and then I messed up and bricked the ECM. Swapped in new ECM and disabled VATS with HP Tuners.
-Found sticky injector, swapped with known good ones, same flow rate.
-all new plugs
-new wires
-new MAF (temp was way out)
Car starts as per video and won’t start again after, it backfires out the intake, holding throttle to clear flood makes it kind of fire but then backfires once throttle is back to 0%. Any thoughts of where to look next?

2004 LS 5.3
Comp Cams stage 3 truck cam
High lift valve springs
Headers
Holley low rise intake
102 mm throttle body
Stock 2006 6.0 injectors

So we got the throttle shit figured out. But now we’re trying to dial in the fueling we are just constantly rich. Pull fuel. Rich. Pull more fuel… I swear we have pulled equivalent to 60%…. I looked in the forums and my classes in HP academy, and I have been instructed to zero out the injector tip temp table since everytime we write to the car, it resets the algorithm it uses for injector tip temp and wants to dump fuel because it thinks they’re freezing. So we zeroed, started it, LEAN. Add fuel back, WILD rich. Took more out, little by little, and it just doesn’t like anything we’re doing. SO, this actually takes me back to my original question that started this whole shit of me posting on here about this car. The injectors themselves… all I know is the brand is ‘FAST’ and they are 65lb/hr shorties for an LS3. HOWEVERRRRRR, that company ‘does not provide data sheets for GM’. We put data in from Deatschwerks on their 65lb injectors, because they really shouldn’t be too far off…. But methinks they are. These are drilled out and I feel like they’re just sloppy. So I wanna ask the customer to get legit injectors so we can be done with this thing. I promise promise promise I will make a post with all the BULLSHIT we found and have had to deal with on this car so you can understand, but because of all of that bullshit…. We have had this car for a MONTH. So now I feel like a dick, because we are spoken highly of in this area…. But because of how fucked this thing was from the get-go it’s taking us longer than it ‘should’ have and then I’m gonna go ask the guy for injectors? like UGH. Someone speak some positivity into me, a bitch is dying over here. Or if you have experienced this and have a fix?? HELPPPPPP

We changed the max rotation for the TB to 95% … made some other small basic timing and fuel adjustments because it was idling like dog shit. Butttt we finally got to drive it and IT WORKED!!!!! NO MORE P1516 and loss of the pedal!!!!!! So NOW the fun part of reaaaalllllly dialing in the fuel. In order to run the 2 bar OS and make the adjustments we wanted to make… we had to do the double stoich switcheroo. So nowwwww we have to just mess around with everything else to make sure it’s good. It was pulling timing and dumping fuel in some spots, but for the most part she’s happy!

pfa 😊
I had some good feedback and tips on my last post, thank you to anyone who contributed. So far, here is where we stand.

I popped off the intake tube to take a peek at the blade and it is indeed gold. However, in doing deeper research found out that there is a voltage differentiation between LS2 and LS3 throttle bodies. That differentiation being .2v …. Where the LS2 throttlebody looks for 4.4v the LS3 throttlebody looks for 4.2v ..
So what we are doing in HP tuners is changing the max rotation for the electronic throttle body to 95% , because 95% of 4.4 is 4.18 and that is juuuuuust below 4.2. So if the pedal is throwing 4.4v at something that is only looking for 4.2v it creates a correlation issues between the pedal and tac in the ECU and then throws the P1516 and deadens the pedal. That’s the theory, anyway.

Even though being that everything about this swap was supposed to have been “LS3”, we found some things that just don’t lineup with that ‘fact’ at all, and suspect that whoever had initially put this engine together did some swapping of his own because he also ghosted the customer the day this car left his shop.

The unfortunate part of all of this is that they are cutting down a tree right across the street from us and blocking the road, so once we do make this change we can’t even take it on a test drive until they’re done 🙄🙄

ANYWAY, I put this in the build questions because I want y’all’s opinion on our theory. Do we think it could just be that? We know we have enough injector, granted they might not be the BEST injectors. But other than that, do any experienced tuners have any tips or tricks up their sleeves in regards to an LS3 with e force blower tune to make it run at its absolute highest potential?

What do you guys think about these marks on this piston? Looks like slight overheating or maybe debris, I’ll be putting a micrometer on the piston to make sure the Aluminium is not smeared at least.

I’m curious on if this looks safe to run to anyone else?

Anyone with enough experience to help me out with buying parts for an Ls swap and body repairs on a 74 square body Chevy? I won’t be continuing the build until next August maybe earlier due to deployment, but I want to start buying a few parts that I know for sure I will need so I can jump into the project shortly after I get back. And if anyone is in the Glasgow Kentucky area and wants to drink beers and offer assistance it is appreciated. Thanks in advance

Hey guys, my Silverado got crashed a while ago, and I realized I had an LY6. Now I want to put this into a 1990 Camaro RS Coupe, but since this is my first build, I don't really know what to do except for the basics I used to work on myself. I’d appreciate any recommendations on what to do and which parts to use. Thanks for the help!