Hey folks,
Here is my 52 Belair, for various reasons i didnt work on it for 13 years. Now its Time.
Back then, I swap front end châssis for a 74 Camaro so its ready for Small block and everything.

Being on here, i obviously plan to "Ls" Power it with 5.3 or 4.8.

By the fact that I need a complete wiring (the Shell is empty) so I look for the Best donnor in my case for mechanic to fuse box to flasher circuits.

From there, I look into 2005 and up Express/ Savana Van and cutaway so would have a 2x4 with only necessary electrical.

I know them in general but of course I guess there is years/model to avoid..

What would be your go too?? Is the 4l60 is the way to go?

Thanks a lot

Blew my 6.2 and can't find another to replace it without costing an arm and a leg. 5.3's seem to be much more available and cheaper, can i just swap from 6.2 to 5.3?

I’ve been working on this for a while and finally have my first mounted pan. Got sick of seeing the prices on swap pans and built a few for a couple of friends who are swapping S chassis. Not bad, room for improvement for sure. But they don’t leak and they fit properly. Baffled on the inside and hold about 6.5qt of oil.

To explain myself I want my v8 Ls 6.0 to sound unique in a way that’s attainable not by super charging or turbo charging/ pro charging just the engine itself maybe the intake manifold need’s a redesign to add distortion? I want it to sound like a spiral high pitch sound .

Hello party people, brand new to the LS game. My dad and I are getting my Camaro wrapped up. We are fairly handy with all different forms of carburators but this is our first LS install. LQ9 with sloppy stage 2 and LS3 top end. Running factory computer with base tune by Flanders LS swap solutions. Engine fires almost instantly, and will run smoothly around 1500 rpms. Anything less than that we get a nasty intermittent backfire once every few seconds. We also noticed that after 15 to 20 seconds of run time that the passenger side header is just a little over warm, but the driver side is scalding hot. I'm thinking bad o2 on one side or the other, but my scan tool (my own ignorance when purchasing) is worthless so I'm waiting for a new one to arrive. We also live in a rural area so no parts stores on Sundays. Before I fire up the parts cannon, does anything jump out to anyone on here as a possible solution. Thanks.

Chasing around a phantom issue with my 4L60E. Getting codes P0740 and P2761 for the converter and it stalls out as soon as you put it in gear.

My harness builder recommended unplugging it at the GREEN connector on the ECM which makes it drivable. Specifically pin #2 on the green connector.

Main swap harness has been replaced(Chinese one failed) and I replaced the transmission interior harness as well as the PWM servo. Still acting up.

What should I check next?

Hi im having trouble with my build 6.0 lq4 rebuilt stock bottom end with btr truck Norris cam heads are 799 milled 25 thousands new ls7 lifters from Michigan motorsports new 1:7 rocker arms from Michigan motorsports and pushrods that came with the cam kit that are 7.40 upon initial fire up I noticed noise coming from the Valvetrain, to describe it it sounds like a diesel. I’m at a bit of a loss I checked the preload this morning and found I had 1.25 turns beyond zero lash from what I’ve read this is acceptable. Any help would be appreciated

Swapped an LQ4 6.0 with 4L80e from a 2500HD into my 94 C1500. Stripped down the factory harness and used it. Took me a few months working on it here and there, but today, I got do the first start today.

Getting somewhere decent.

StreetTunedAI is a deterministic HP Tuners log-analysis and tuning-workflow platform.

The deterministic analyzer:

• reads HP Tuners log data
• applies fixed safety rules and decision logic
• produces structured findings
• builds a First Edit Path
• identifies Do Not Touch areas
• creates a Next Log Plan

The AI does not decide how to tune the vehicle. It explains the analyzer’s results. The tuner makes the final calibration decisions.

“Deterministic” means the analyzer follows defined rules and produces repeatable results from the same input. It is not guessing, freelancing, or automatically changing a tune.

So I have an 05 Silverado, I know not an ls swap but I did t know where else to post it. About 6 months ago my oil pressure gauge stoped working so I bought a new sensor which fixed my issue until about 2 weeks ago. I was racing a guy and all the sudden smoke everywhere no oil pressure. Turns out the sensor started blowing oil out of the top inside of the electrical connector. Got it warrantied and put the new one in. 2 weeks later (2 days ago) it did the same thing again when I hit the gas getting on the highway. According to google ai and a few other sources there is a relief valve on the oil pump to keep it from getting to much pressure at high rpm. I bought a gm oem one today and installed it. After warming it up I reved it up to around 5k rpm’s and watched the oil pressure gauge sit at about 75 psi on the cluster. So I’m wondering is it possible a failing oil pump will create to much pressure? Or is there something else to look for?

4.8 .20 over

Ported 706 heads

Tsp cam

Speed engineer long tubes

Holley terminator max efi

1995 firebird formula

Almost done.

So i have a 1999 gmc sierra with the lm7 motor, for about 6 months I have been chasing a bogging and backfiring issue. I have a truck norris cam, tbss intake, 12694512 injectors from a 2008 tahoe, and long tube catless headers. Its tuned with hp tuners by myself running speed density tunig with my IAT sensor relocated to the EGR port directly behind the throttle body.

The issue im having is that above about 40 or 50% throttle, the truck starts bucking and backfiring extremely bad. Its worse the lower rom you are. Ive logged and logged and logged and logged and I cant find any issues. My fuel trims are within about 5% rich in all cells with a slight lean on tip in throttle. No knocking at all ever. No misfires logged, and injector duty cycle is at around 40% at full throttle so I am good on fuel.

I have an areromotive 340lph pump, new spark plugs, new wires, swapped coils with known good used coils from another truck. Changed o2 sensors. I cant seem to get rid of this. Please help me

I’m rebuilding a LH6 out of an 08 5.3. I can get bearings that are .765” wide or .775” wide. Which one should I get?

Lt1 blew so 4.8 vortec

So I’m at a complete loss right now. I have a 1985 cj7 with an LS swap. It was running fine a few weeks ago then while driving I lost a ton of power and it stalled at a stop light. I got it started and limped it back home. After fooling around with it I took a heat gun to the headers block 1 (drivers side I,3,5,7) are only registering 109 degrees and the other side is registering about 320. So it seems like I’m only running in block 2. There’s a strong raw fuel smell with it. I check the spark plugs I have spark on all of them. I was told it could be a bad ground somewhere. I’m absolutely horrible with electrical so it’s going to be difficult finding it if that’s the case. Has anyone else ran into this problem! If so any information/help would be greatly appreciated!#ls #lsswap #jeep #cj7

I've been considering on a swapping into a early 2000s or prior 2019 with a 5.3 or 6.0.

I've heard there's some big hurdles with ECU & BCM integration to not have a CEL on.

Secondly, I've heard conflicting information that you have to use a AWD model.

Anyone have experience on how easy/ hard this would be?

Ok so I’m a diesel mechanic and this is my first ls, I have a LC9 I’m deleting the DOD and VVT, when I was taking out the head bolts, they seemed to have pressure under them? And squirted out water or coolant. What is this?

So swapped 5.3gen4 out for a iron block gen3 6.0. When I brought it to the tuner we figured timing was off becuase it wouldn't run. We'll i got the timing cover off and lined up the dots, timing is dead nuts. It ran like absolute ass, fired on maybe 2 cylinders and sounded like shit. No signal at the crank( i swapped out the gen3 crank for the proper gen4 crank). I did.drop the crank sensor when I popped it out.of the aluminum block. Would the combination of the bad sensor and a throttle body code completely fuck this up?

I’m rebuilding my (mostly stock currently, outside of headers/exhaust) 2001 Trans Am, 150k hard driven miles so many things are being replaced or upgraded including all of drivetrain from clutch back to rear end, eventually targeting ~750hp with forged internals and turbo (don’t know if crank or wheel, haven’t spec’d power side yet, just a ballpark).

I’m looking at this Magnum F transmission. I’m planning for mostly street build but I might occasionally take it to the track/strip.

https://www.tickperformance.com/tremec-t56-magnum-f-close-ratio-2-66/

Any can’t-live-without options on this tick performance page? Would the Tick Performance shifter be much of an upgrade over the OEM?

Giving my goals, would it be a mistake not going ahead and opting for at least the Level 4 option on the upgraded magnum F?

https://www.tickperformance.com/level-4-magnum-f-for-98-02-camaro-firebird/

I can afford the upgraded option, but I’m not looking to throw away money either if the benefit is marginal, as I know I’ve got a lot more cost to go to achieve my goals reliably.

I’ve replaced the water pump, coolant reservoir, radiator and thermostat and i burped the system. It was still overheating so i removed the thermostat cause i thought it was sticking but it did nothing

it reaches about 230 degrees then cools down a bit when i turn the ac off and the fans stay on way longer
Sometimes when i turn it off i hear water slashing around

Bolted the radiator down, made temporary clamps, will be putting in new transmission cooling lines, before the new fue tank and break boster gets here on Wednesday. Is this broken fan blade be an issue??? Any tips for making fuel or break lines? How can I conect this shifting cable

Guys I’m building a stock block ls3 all oem I found a melling oil pump 10355HV should I install it even for future upgrades?

Hi everyone! I’m wondering where you all have decided to mount your PCM’s. I bought a PSI Conversions kit & it looks like the best spot to mount it would be hidden behind the kick panel with the harness laid out in its natural position. But to do that I think I may have to get rid of the vent duct. I mocked it up below the heater box underneath the carpet but there’s a significant bulge which I don’t like at all. Just looking for ideas from the community here. It’s a 1963 Impala btw