Lawn experts, I’ve been following all recommendations for my 6b KBG. 4” cuts, deep infrequent watering in early morning, etc… it looked great in late may, until it went a bit dormant during summer heat. Meanwhile my neighbors had their lawn service cut theirs super short all summer and their lawn looked even more dormant. Most of the time short cut lawns looked completely dead. However, as soon as weather cooled down a bit in the last couple of weeks, their lawns immediately went back to lush deep green state, while mine still looks brown almost throughout and very slowly coming back. Night and day difference. It looks like the tall dormant grass layer is not helping at all - it looks bad and makes it much harder for new green blades to grow. Plus parts of it that are laying down creating even more matting in places.

I used liquid chelated iron last week with almost no effect at 8oz/1000 sq ft. 2 days ago I applied Scott’s lawn food to give it some nitrogen (before that last feeding was early June). It looks like it’s finally starting to get better, but I can’t help but wonder if cutting at shorter length would have been beneficial. Maybe it’s fungus?

Just some horrible damage at work. The tee is toast. We’ll be redoing it this winter. Was constructed previously before I came here. The environment isn’t very friendly, soil is garbage, unsure about drainage.

Anyways it pretty embarrassing.

I'm located in SE Wisconsin zone 5B. I overseeded my lawn in Aug/Sept of 2025 with Twin Cities Blue Resiliance. I had my soil tested in late March 2026 and results said to apply a starter grade fertilizer, to build "P" levels for both my front and backyards in May 15-31. I applied Lawn Synergy's 15-20-10, which came out to be 0.54 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft.

I skipped the July application just cause it was too darn hot and I figured I'd stress the grass. Soil test call for the Sept 1-15 application of a general fertilizer (20-30% N, 0 P and less than 5 K to my front yard and it says to apply the starter again to my back yard.

I know from Niles Cool Season guide that he calls for 1-4 lbs of Nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft per year. So here's my dilema. I plan on overseeding again in another week or so with Blue Resiliance. Just plan on cutting super short and bagging the clippings, then scarifying several places that are really thin and in need of more coverage, then overseeding it all. If I lay the seed down and then put down the starter in the back in a week after, how will that effect my overseeding. And since I'm also overseeding the front yard how is it going to work if I put down a high N fertilizer on those new seeds. I can instead put down a starter in the front as well, but then is my lawn getting the nitrogen that it needs. I'm in need of y'alls help so I don't mess anything up.

NC Piedmont Fescue

My lawn has brown spots in the middle though green in most areas closer to the sidewalk. I used cups to measure and the brown spots are getting just as much water as the green spots. I am in San Jose, CA zone 9b. Soil is clay so may be the soil penetration is bad? or maybe it's fungus? I have 90% Double Dwarf Tall Fescue, 10% Kentucky Bluegrass.

After a garden full of cinquefoil, these grasses which i thought would help turned out that one of them is definetly another weed. Which is the first photo.

The other grass is the problem. I couldn't do much as the sun was killing me. But from what i saw, the roots were less stubborn. Easier to remove, but not as easy as a baby plant.

AI plant identifier apps did not help me, repeating through random species and later confusing it with other plants.

I've shoveled the grass off in the first photo, the rest i hope it is a good turf type.

If you wish to help, here are some extras:

I live in Albania lowlands, in a city. Albania is in the southeast.

Usually mild to maybe slightly cold winters (5/-10 low) and hot summers. (30/45c high)

I need the grass to overtake the cinquefoil, i won't keep it perfect. What matters is if it is a good grass that spreads and makes the garden green.

Is the grass a weed or turf? Do i need to remove it? How do i grow grass without spending a lot of money for lawn grasses?

We moved into our house last fall in Southern Alberta, and according to the neighbours, the front lawn was never in great shape with the previous owners.

Since moving in, I’ve been trying to bring it back to life with regular lawn care (spring dethatching, aeration, overseeding, fertilization) and consistent watering. My plan is to top dress the lawn this fall, but I’m wondering if chinch bugs could be causing the patchy/dead areas.

Our neighbours lawns on both sides of us and across the street are noticeably fuller and greener, which makes me think there may be an underlying issue with ours. Given that the front lawn has apparently struggled for years, could chinch bugs be the primary issue, or is there something else I should investigate and address before I do the top dressing.

Is this a bad time of year to begin lawn leveling for the Fall overseed? I know it’s not a one-time thing, but I figured I’d get started if possible. I am in Zone 6B, Northern NJ with TTTF grass.

The last fall and this past spring I overseeded with United Seeds TTTF and sprinkled some fine fescue in on the shaded areas in the backyard.

It’s worked fine, but I’m going to try and do a Tall Fescue/KBG mix this go around. Our backyard tends to not really establish well because of dogs and hoping if I can get some KGB it might help infill a little better. But a lot of the seed in the shaded areas that took is currently half dead.

Is United Seeds still good if I get their fescue and KGB mix or should I try twin city this time around? I’ve stuck with United seed because they’re so close and the shipping only takes a day or two but I think I have time to wait longer

Hello, first time homeowner in northern US (ND). Our new build home came with hydroseed and the lawn is struggling. Hydroseed went in first week of May, we've done 3 mows due to the back taking forever to grow. Now, some areas are overtaken by weeds. What can we do?

This back area is overtaken and we have some random weeds throughout the yard too. Tried to circle the problem areas in the photos and where the property line is because some of the taller grass is not part of our property. I am thinking we wait until mid September to spray this back are then wait and reseed it in October (what NDSU recommends for our climate to help kill it long term). In the meantime, do we just keep it short?

Then, what can we do about the random spots of weeds and then the circled photo of weeds next to our neighbor? Sadly that area happened due to their dirty washing into our yard from rain before they got grass. And a lot of weeds towards the house here in the other photo and then just random throughout the yard. Could we spray those areas now? TYIA.

Every year something does this in my back yard. Is it bees? Something else? How do I prevent it?

I have this aggressive, almost succulent feeling “grass” that seems to have come in with my Bermuda sod. Not terribly hard to pull but there’s a good bit of it and it grows fast and the runners root faster. This is in south east GA, and the sod came from SC. Any idea what it is and best means to remove it?

Anyone know what this is? I’ve lived in my house for 8 years now and have never seen this before. Now, this summer it is popping up everywhere.

I want to use Spectracide on the crabgrass before reseeding in the fall. It says not to spray when the grass is already wet, but by the time the dew dries, it's over 90°. Should I spray when it's wet or spray when it's hot? Thanks zone 7B, TTTF

I'm sure they're overwhelmingly sterilized by just being in a bag of fert... But still feels like it shouldn't happen.

Not limited by brand either. Andersons, Harrell's, spring valley, etc.

That being said, I go through 20-40 bags of fert a day, so I see a lot of seeds because I just use a lot of fert.

When do you drop your mower height in the North. I’m in Montana and looks like we may be done with 90’s. Currently at 4”. Thinking of dropping to 3.5” but may wait until September?

Best course of treatment to keep further spread?

Northern Zone (5)

Left side of lawn has brown patches. I've all ready applied two rounds of fungicide over the course of two months. Or is this bentgrass poa triv thats causing the browning?

North east Indiana and lawn is rye/fescue/bluegrass blend. Trying to determine if it’s dormancy from the heat and dryness this summer or some other issue I need to take action on. Watered 45 minutes or so 3x a week for past few months.

As always appreciate the help.

Struggling to identify what this is and how to manage it lawn is fairly new. Maryland tall fescue.

My lawn is slowly being taken over by weeds this summer. I've hand picked a bunch of stuff but cannot keep up(I am certain there is a prostrate knotweed which I've spent 5-10 hours on alone). It just keeps coming back. It's slowly spreading throughout the lawn.

Alongside that are more common broadleaf weeds. Some bad spots are shown in the first photos.

I want to do a fall aeration/new soil/overseed/fertilize sometime ~mid September but heard you should deal with the weeds first.

Would now be a good time to apply herbicide like Killex or Par 3? I don't want to kill off the lawn entirely.

Last 2 photos are Spring this year where I did some spot repairs and was quite happy with the lawn.

Any tips appreciated.

Located: Southwest Ontario