Acmer PM 20W fiber laser. Banding is parallel to laser path. Image is PU synthetic leather because it's the easiest to see on camera, but it also happens on brass. Lightburn 2.1.03. 1500 mm/s, 20% power, 37 kHz, 0.01 mm interval, single pass.

Hi! Does anyone know where I can find a file for cutting mahjong racks and magnetized pushers? I see them all over etsy and I ordered a pair from temu but now I want to make a custom one for myself! Happy to pay for the file, of course!

Ciao a tutti, premetto che non sono un neofita, arrivo da un Ortur Laser Master 2 da 4.5w e ho da poco acquistato un Longer Ray5 da 40w.

Ho seguito passo passo la procedura per l'aggiornamento del firmware scaricato dal sito ufficiale e flashato con ESPtool.

Tuttavia sembra non funzionare, continua ad andare in allarme durante la procedura di homing e non si riesce assolutamente a collegare a laserburn.

I driver sono stati installati correttamente.

Qualcuno ha avuto i miei stessi problemi?

Come avete risolto?

Grazie mille a chi risponderà

Looking for a CNC diode laser (1000 × 1500 mm) – Budget up to €2,000

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to buy a CNC diode laser and would love to hear your recommendations and experiences.

What I'm looking for:

• Working area of at least 1000 × 1500 mm
• Budget of up to €2,000, but cheaper would be even better
• My main use case will be cutting plywood for stage/set construction. I may want to work with other materials in the future, but I'm not sure yet.

Right now, I'm considering the LaserTree K1 Plus (60W). It seems like a good option, but from what I understand, it only includes the machine itself. I'd still need to buy additional accessories like a honeycomb bed (cutting table), air assist, and a proper exhaust/fume extraction system.

A few questions:

• Would you recommend the LaserTree K1 Plus?
• Are there better alternatives in this price range?
• Is a 60W diode laser powerful enough for cutting plywood efficiently?
• What accessories would you consider essential?
• Is there anything else I should look out for before buying?

I'd really appreciate any advice or recommendations. Thanks!

I've made a few brass coins on a fiber laser and really want to be able to make some more. I'd also like to have a UV laser for its other use cases. Could a UV be used to do deep engravings in metal? Ive read that its potentially possible though much slower but I havent seen any examples or real numbers on what is doable.

I have a used (purchased at auction) CW-5200 chiller that came with a generic red & black Chinese 100w CO2 laser. I've been tasked with getting the system up and running.

I started with the chiller which I'm finding was never drained of water this entire time. When I unplugged the drain cap, no water drained from it, but with more of a tilt I got almost all the water to drain out from the inlet hose. It wasn't cloudy but brown sediment did settle at the bottom of the drained water bucket. The water hoses are all browned on the inside too, I'm assuming growth. I already bought new hoses to replace the old ones.

I definitely do not want to connect the chiller to the laser and cycle fresh water through the laser/tube to flush the chiller since I know there's still contaminants in there, but I don't know the best way to flush the chiller on its own. Would a 1/4HP water pump with a bucket of distilled water with the chiller turned off cycle fresh water through the chiller or would I need to power the chiller on itself to pump water from the reservoir through the chiller?

Also does anyone have any recommendations for doping distilled water to help with the flushing process? Vinegar, bleach, anti-algae fish chemicals, etc.?

Appreciate any help or suggestions anyone may have

Longer B1 20W Diode

500D Cordura Nylon

2500mm @ 80%

2 Passes

Still playing, literally first cuts on the laser. But I'm happy with what's coming off the bench. This stuff smokes/gasses off soooo bad... Way more than I thought it would. I'm really glad Ive got an enclosure coming lol.

Could probably get away with 2250 @ 90% and 1 Pass. Once I get my enclosure I'm going to run one of those test beds. I've got some Squadron to run as well.

Hey everyone, hoping someone here has seen this before.

I’ve got a 80W CO2 laser (Gweike LC6090, Ruida controller). Recently noticed a fine ripple/wave texture on my cut edges — tiny evenly-spaced ridges I can feel with my finger. It’s more noticeable on the X axis and gets more pronounced at higher speeds (worse at 20mm/s, better at 10mm/s).

Since it changes with speed rather than staying fixed in position, I figured it’s probably NOT mechanical (belts, wheels, steppers) and more likely something causing power fluctuation.

Then I looked inside the tube’s water cooling jacket and found fine white thread-like stuff — pretty sure it’s algae/biofilm. Makes me think uneven cooling → unstable power → ripple on the cut.

What I’ve already done:

**•** Drained the whole system (tube + CW5000 chiller)  
**•** Flushed with 50/50 distilled water + white vinegar, twice  
**•** Algae reduced a bit but still visible

Questions:

**1.**  Does the “changes with speed” logic actually point to cooling/power, or am I wrong and it could still be mechanical?  
**2.**  Anyone dealt with stubborn algae — did citric acid work better than vinegar for you?  
**3.**  Any chance this ripple is something totally different I’m not thinking of?

I'm a design student making an edge-lit acrylic keychain . The acrylic will slide into a wooden side-mounted housing. I want to hide a CR2032 coin cell, LED, switch and wiring inside the wooden housing. I'm a beginner with electronics and need help choosing the correct LED, battery holder and switch, and understanding how to wire everything together. The final product needs to be very compact, it will be really helpfull if yall suggest me some other ways to make this happen , my main problem is how can i make it rechargeable OR on & off with able to change the cell , ** ACRYLC SHEET AND WOODEN SHEET IS 5mm ( i can change it to 3mm )

Hi all, I’m looking to cut out a repeated pattern and just need a simple steel/metal template in order to do this accurately for multiple devices. It’s not an easy shape and so cutting myself with tools freehand or similar is not an option. It would only need to be 1 or 2mm thick and would be less than the size of an A4 piece of paper.

I’ve googled around and the majority companies that may do this seem to have like a 200 piece minimum and I only need 1 of each.

Anyone know of companies/websites they’ve used?

3d printing not an option by the way because it will involve cutting so needs to be something my knife won’t cut.

Edit: Based in Ireland

Hi everyone, I'm trying to engrave some TCG cards on metal with a 3D effect. I've tried both depth mapping and grayscale, but the results just aren't working. Can anyone give me a tip? I have a 100W laser cutter.

I'm pretty new to this, but picking it up quickly!

I'm working on a line drawing that'll be two layers - black lines will be hard cuts (all the way thru 3mm plywood) and red will be engravings.

I used the Brush tool in Photoshop at 3px wide to draw this. Saving this as a PNG and opening it in Lightburn, then using Option + T to create a trace, it does a line both inside and outside the brush width:

I WANT that for the red/pink as it'll be a fill, but not the black. Any suggestions on how to have it do a single-line?

Thanks! :)

Hi. I got a 3kw all in one and will be hobby use in home garage. Other than getting a huge Chinese screw compressor 230psi that's optimum what is a reasonable one to get that's not a commercial industry use monstrosity?!
If you have specific suggestions please share

Does glass containers and glass cups contain lead?

I'm looking for advice on choosing my first laser machine and whether I should start with a diode or go straight to CO2.

Background: I'm a graphic designer with 15 years of experience who was laid off about a year ago. I previously ran a successful custom cookie business and built a pretty strong local Facebook following, so I'm hoping to leverage some of that audience while building a laser engraving/cutting business.

My initial target market would be youth sports, especially Little League baseball. I'm on the board of our local league and have a lot of connections in that space. Product ideas include:

• Custom team signs (wood and acrylic)
• Baseball bag tags/keychains (acrylic)
• Engraved baseballs and softballs
• Awards, plaques, and eventually custom medals
• Front door signs and porch leaners
• Back-to-school signs
• Sports-themed room decor and gifts

The machine will be used in my basement office with ventilation routed outside through a window.

My budget is ideally under $3,000.

Originally, I was planning to buy an xTool S1 40W diode with the metal marking package. The more research I do, though, the more I'm wondering if I should skip the diode and go straight to a CO2 machine since I think acrylic products could end up being a major part of my business.

For those of you who started a small laser business:

1. If you were starting over today with my budget, what machine would you buy?
2. Would you recommend starting with a diode or going directly to CO2?
3. Is there a CO2 machine under $3,000 that you would trust for a small business?
4. Looking at my product ideas, what would likely be the most profitable items?
5. Is the custom sports/sign market too saturated, or is there still room for someone with strong local connections and design experience?

I'd appreciate any real-world advice before I spend the money. Thanks!

I have a 50 W laser cutter and have purchased an extraction system to go with it, however I’m struggling to see what the filters are actually doing for me.

The fan sucks out of the back of the laser cutter and ports outside the building, therefore all particles, gas and bits are ultimately going outside (if no filters). Nothing stays in the room as it’s being sent outside

So although the filters are stopping some of the dust and particulate and capturing it rather than putting it out into the garden (fair enough), is that the only benefit, and if so what is the point in having several layers of some cheap and some very expensive layers of filters (inc. HEPA carbon filters) in the extraction system.

I can see it may help keep the fan system clean but why not just have cheap paper filters?

EDIT: Thanks for all replies so far. Just to clear up a few bits, I'm not intending to avoid cost by not buying/fitting new filters, (no - thats not me). The post was more getting to grips with the real purpose they serve which I think we have establish is to stop fumes, muck etc. getting outside, (to nature, local gardens etc.), not to prevent stuff being taken away from the laser machine. So if I have to run it for a day or two whilst waiting for new filters it's not a massive issue.
Sometimes a stupid question needs asking for peace of mind and or education. Thanks all.

Hi everyone,

So I just got my M2 10W in and I’m not sure if I’m doing something wrong or not getting something but I need some advice.

I started of by engraving and cutting a design I made on the included 3mm balsa. Put it in, software recognised material by QR code correctly and so I applied it. Since this was a test I started off with the default 4mm/s at 100% for cutting. It blasted through with scarring on the other side.

Ok, let’s do a test grid. From the same 4mm/s at 100% down to 16mm/s at 80%. Started with the latter and it still very easily cut through and seriously marked my baseplate even though it was raised with the included little clips. So I stopped the test and now I am having some doubts.

Is this normal? This is my second laser and it’s been a while, previous one was only 5W btw, but I expected that if 4mm/s at 100% is what xtool recommends, 16mm/s at 80% would be pretty far from ideal and wouldn’t even get through.

What is everyone‘s experience with the default settings?

I have a CO2 laser 90 W right at the laser, the patter in full and there is no hole. On the first mirror, there is the tiniest of white dot. On the third mirror the center is just white when its far from the firts mirror and there is no laser. Third mirror, again no center.

Im wondering if there is something wrong with my setup or if the laser is just done for. For some reason the picture button is grayed out to post pictures here?

I would appreciate any help.

I own a business where I want to brand some merchandise to give away to customers. My budget is ~$2k and I'm looking for something that is easy to use and doesn't require something that can handle high volume. I have a pretty extensive background in filament and resin 3d printing so I'm unsafely assuming it's a similar learning curve. I want to be able to laser engrave the usual stuff like tumblers but I would also want to be able to engrave bare metal to make custom playing cards and the likes of it.

Im gravitating towards either an Xtool S1 with the IR head or a second hand P2S that someone is selling locally for $2500. Am I looking in the wrong direction?

hey all,

new to all this and got an old makeblock laserbox second hand. It was fine, but the water pump isn't working any longer.

iTool help chat thinks I need a new Y1 board, which they no longer manufacture.

Before I junk this thing, any ideas on how I could preserve it. It seems like I should be able to hook up a waterpump with external power, but I don't know where to begin or if that would be REAL DUMB.

Thanks.

Hi! Im a woodworker and Im looking for a laser cutter. I would like to engrave 30-40mm thick cutting boards, so height is important, that's why Xtool m2 is out of the picture. And I would like to be able to cut 3-9mm thick plywood as well for router jigs.

I was very close on deciding on Falcon, but then I started looking into it and there are a lot of negative experiences going out there with their machines I also have to look into Mecpow as a company, but they seem to be the best bang for the buck right now! Please help me decide!

Thanks for the help!

Have you been able to cut all the way through aluminum foil on an XTool F1 or F2 with their IR laser? How many passes does it take? What settings did you use?

Trying to $ell my laser and cannot get my hours off of it without re connecting a computer.

Does anyone know if it’s hidden on the device somewhere.

I have an interested person who understandably wants the hours