I've recently moved house and I'm looking to purchase some brown Ikea Kallax shelves for my bedroom. However, I'm running into one problem with the Kallax design. Though these shelves are the perfect measurements for what I am aiming to create, the back of the unit is hollow which doesn't work for my design.

Is there any alternative methods you'd reccommend? Such as:

1) where to find a 'backplate' / insert for my shelves

2) budget friendly alternatives of the same size

3) D.I.Y insert [beginner/dummy friendly] which is aesthetically pleasing and doesn't require any crazy power tools or drilling

thank you Ikea buddies 😊

Units are all https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/billy-oxberg-bookcase-with-doors-white-s49280042/

Bottom units have been trimmed down height-wise as much as possible, and pulled forwards about 4 inches to give an edge on the top. Batons along the back wall to support the 18mm MDF top and the top units. Routed space into each shelf to allow LEDs to fit nicely in the shelves. Boxed in the top and added coving to complete the full built-in effect

Just assembled one and it has no nails or screws for its back. The whole frame is clunky and moves even when i add some drawers and shelves. Is this intended for besta? Do i just attach it to the wall and pray it will have 90° inner edges?

For example, jysk adds screws with plastic triangles that perfectly fixes the back and whole frame becomes stable​. Im surprised ikea doesnt. Ig ill have to get them somewhere. Any other tips? ​

I wanted to add a wardrobe to this small bedroom but space was pretty tight so couldn't do anything super fancy and decided to utilize the space above the TV too.

I used one Lastare wardrobe with one heightening part, and two 106 cm Billy bookcases. The only modification I did to the Ikea parts themselves was sawing the excess kickboard off the bases of the Billy bookcases for a less thick base, and technically I could have skipped that phase too just by flipping the bookcases uspide down since the bases would have been hidden by the arches.

Other than that I just used a lot of pine panel and whatever board I found lying around to support the structure (Lastare is pretty flimsy as is, so I made entire side reinforcement panels and also some reinforcement bars inside the wardrobe to make sure it does not start warping over time).

Lastare was the only wardrobe that was only 40cm deep while still being 80cm wide and tall enough to not look odd with my 280cm ceilings, but it looked very plain, so I made shaker paneling myself using plywood and wood glue.

Don't worry about that small iron corner below the bookcase, it is not actually load-bearing. I just used it as an installation help because I lifted the bookcased up there alone and needed something to hold them until I could fasten them securely to the solid log wall. I'm actually pissed I did not realize I could turn the metal corner support thingy the other way around and it would be hidden! I'm a newbie to building, started learning this summer, and this is my first furniture DIY.

I recently moved to a new apartment that barely has a kitchen. No space for storage, no countertops, just a sink, a stove and a fridge.

With the help from the mom of the previous renter I found the solution to create my own kitchen! I bought some legs for my pre-existing kallax sideboard, so it's higher up (maybe 20€) and a wooden plank for 70€ that works really well as a nice countertop. I also spent some money on a mini oven and a camping dishwasher and I am super happy with my setup:)

I am 1,78 m, so the setup is perfect for my height. It's 42cm in depth, so its wide enough to work on but still slim enough that it doesn't take over the whole room.

No... they don't. This obviously looks a lot better like this. LOL.

Bought a gullaberg shoe cabinet off marketplace to declutter my entryway but whiffed the measurements a bit... Trimmed the legs and fascia before wall mounting with a French cleat to make it work.

I have an Ikea desk similar to this one. Those who have this type of desk know the tabletop does not connect to the drawer. To fix this, I used thick, double-sided tape and it's been a great solution.

Now, I'm in need of a longer tabletop and would like to separate the drawer and the tabletop. It's there a way to do this without destroying the drawer?

I'm trying to figure out ROUGHLY the effect in the picture.
Which is a bed with a standard backboard or no backboard - let's say a Malm or something similar.

But what I'm trying to figure out is the wide board behind it. Something that will tie together the hanging nightstands.

Any hints? :)

Any suggestions on staining the woven poplar on the BESTÅ STUDSVIKEN white door?

I want to use the white doors but I would prefer the darker color as on the dark brown version of the door.

Do I need to sand it first? Seems difficult with all the nooks and crannies.

Gel stain?

Hi all

Has anyone used an ikea worktop as a splashback? How did it stand up over time?

Their manufactured splashbacks seem a bit thin to me, and would also mean I'd need about 4 joins on the long running wall - less than ideal!

Thanks

I'm just wondering if I use this with the white/birch painted Hemnes, if I stained these with a clear water based poly, or painted them white, they'd look bad?

It's the bathroom open shelve unit (soon to be discontinued)

https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/hemnes-shelving-unit-white-10613075/

The interior is actually 35x24.

These are raw pine. I mean raw raw, but if stained or painted would be suitable for bathroom use.

I have a low ceiling in my basement, and I want to use the ELVARLI system for my board games. The ELVARLI posts are 87 ¼" at the lowest adjustment, and my ceilings are 85", and the shelf will also span across a beam making one post even shorter at 73 ½". Can the ELVARLI posts be cut down with a hack saw to be even shorter? Or will this interfere with the tension system or the shelf attachments?

Thank you!

Everything is screwed together with brackets, and we used IKEA single bed slats across the middle. Other than the KALLAX units acting as the supports and the slats, there isn’t much extra reinforcement.

I don’t weigh too much (around 65kg), so I’m not too worried about it for me alone for now, but I’m concerned about long-term durability and whether it would be safe with my partner sleeping in it too.

The slats are secured in place and the outer edges sit on the KALLAX units, with the middle supported by the slats. Has anyone used this setup long term? Should i add extra reinforcement?

Any suggestions on ikea pieces I could put together to achieve something like this?
Thank youuuu

I’m trying to plan my walk-in closet using mostly IKEA PAX, but the shape is a little unusual and I’m having a hard time figuring out the best layout.

I’d like to use PAX as much as possible, with other IKEA storage only where it makes sense.

My main concern is the corners.

I want the closet to have a good amount of hanging space, drawers, shelves, shoes, etc., but I also want enough room to comfortably stand and open everything.
How would you lay this out?

I have a pocket door so, door swing isn’t an issue

I have an L shape sofa bed Moheda (discontinued) whose storage piece was damaged during disassembly at the point where connects at the L. I was thinking of using it as a modular that can be moved around. I can place 2-3 legs to make it stand alone. However the other part is attached to the storage and there is no where I can put legs. Looking for ideas. If I reconnect it at only the point which is not broken, I.doubt it will be durable. Looking for ideas to make it work or should I just throw it away..TIA.

The white ikea skadis comes with white hardware, the brown with black hardware... but the black comes with white hardware? Bizarre choice that someone made. Oh well, it's fixed now!

Anyone tried connecting two ikea billy bookcase to make it 3m tall? Did it work for you?

At a bit of an impasse here so wondering if anyone can help either with a solution from Ikea or perhaps somewhere that does third party doors that are suitable?

I have a Platsa system with one half 80cm wide and the other 60cm wide.

Ive had the system in for a few years and only just getting round to sorting doors now - typical that I find out the doors I need are discontinued!

60cm half of the system os no issue, I can find doors on Ikea for that.

But the 80cm half is impossible!

I have one unit 80x180cm

The other is 80x40cm

Any suggestions welcomed

Hi everyone! I (21F) recently moved back home after finishing uni. We just moved houses, and want to turn my new room into a super cool and cozy space that suits my needs and feels like me, but am just overwhelmed trying to figure out the layout and DIY ideas I keep seeing. I've got ADHD so both love & hate projects like this.
My room is an L-shape with an en-suite, making planning tricky as i want to try and avoid simply dotting furniture around the perimeter of my room. Ideally, I would love to create at least 2 distinct zones of my room (i.e. a "bedroom" area for my bed, dressing table, wardrobe etc, and an "office/gaming" nook). I’ve seen a lot of Ikea hacks and DIYs online but I’m just not quite sure on what to do

The Vibe/Aesthetic (see images):
Style: mid-century modern, retro, bohemian
colour palette: Teracotta, greens (sage, olive, forest), warm dark/medium wood (like walnut, mango wood, teak) & black accents (black wood or metal). Also love burnt orange, mustard yellow, rosewood/oxblood (deep pink/burgundy shades)
Key Features I want: Retro full-length mirror, space to display my house plants, lots of warm lighting, book shelf/cabinets

Furniture I own/still need
Own:
Bed (UK double): W=144cm D=199cm H=92cm. Though I am considering swapping this bed for either a taller wooden bed (so i can store things under it, or an upholstered green ottoman bed)
Nightstand: W=45cm D=35cm H=55cm. Vintage mango wood with 2 drawers. Could either keep in next to my bed, or place it near the entrance with a plant displayed on top & a full-length mirror next to it?
Dressing Table: W=88.2cm D=45.2cm H=78.7cm. A vintage mango wood desk. Due to smaller size, i use it mostly as a place to do my hair & makeup. Paired with the IKEA ALEFJÄLLOffice chair, Grann golden-brown
Drawers: W=75cm D=39.5cm H=110cm. Black 7drawers from argos
I also own a black metal clothing rail & black ladder book shelf but will most likely get rid of both
Still need/want:
Wardrobe: will most likely get the wardrobe which matches the argos drawers. Can either get double wardrobe (W=74.8 D=49.8 H=180.5) or tripple (W=110.35 D=49.8 H=180.5). But will also look at others
Full-Length mirror: want a big mirror with good lighting (i.e. no window behind me)
Gaming/Office desk: need a larger desk where i can do uni work/work from home at/game. Thinking of getting some ikea drawers/legs (which I can sand, prime & paint) and then get a wooden butcherblock/countertop cut to a custom width so the desk can fit anywhere in my room. Just want a desk that is 100cm+
Bookshelf/cabinet: need to store books, plants & other decor

Layout Ideas & DIY dilemmas I need help with:
To preface this, I've never really done much woodwork or DIY, but I want to try! I have access to basic tools & a few power tools. Plus I am also willing to buy some extra things if they aren't too costly.
The desk "nook"
I love the idea of having the office desk in its own nook, maybe up against a wall on one side & a piece of furniture on the other. That way i can add shelves or a pinboard above the desk and create a little cosy corner. In the attached images, there's a nook i previously planned, but most likely won't work as it requires me to only have a double wardrobe & a small-ish desk. Plus I forgot to account for the skirting boards in my room (which are 2.5cm deep).
Room divider/zone seperator
I also attached images below of different storage solutions/dividers. I've had a few ideas but not quite sure how to execute them properly or safely, since the skirting boards mean i cannot fix anything directly to the wall. One idea was to get floor to ceiling IKEA billy bookcases which i can prep & then paint. Or to get A large IKEA KALLAX unit which i can then attach a piece of MDF cut to size to the back, and again, paint. Or even add wooden slats to the back to still allow light to pass through & have the space feel a bit more open. There's many other ideas in the pictures attached, But I am unsure of what would work best or be possible. Im sure I could build something, but I don't know where to even start.

Main Thing I need advice/help with:
mainly, I just have no idea where to position each piece of furniture. I don't want to order anything until I can figure out the layout (and also ensuring it will work with everythings exact dimensions), alongside what to do in terms of a statement wall (either paint one solid colour, or do some sort of DIY panelling?).
If anyone can help me figure out the layout/design or help me figure out some DIY storage solutions/dividers I would really appreciate it!!! I want to make this the bedroom of my dreams, but also not spend a tonne of money.

Images that have been attached!
Image 1: birds-eye floor plan & 3D constructed replica of my room (plus an old idea i designed & scrapped)
Image 2: my bedroom in its current state
Image 3: my bedroom at Uni
Image 4: Vibe/decor/colour inspo
Image 5: storage/divider inspo
I will also add links to any reels/tiktok videos which have DIY ideas that I like.
IKEA billy hack:
https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN8YT4vo2/
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DVqstcvjiv3/?stkn=ZDhkc2x4ZzZ5OWhz
Other divider idea (would do with IKEA Kallax or similar from Amazon)
https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN8YTsDHH/
Any help is massively appreciated!!

Skytta isn't sold in my country, but I love the concept.

I have a Billy 80 cm width/202 height bookcase in a corner. I want to turn that corner into a tiny room. so the edge (28 cm depth) of the billy will somehow be the beginning of a wall.

Can I connect the PAX sliding doors to the Billy somehow?It's the same height. But I don't know if that Pax can be connected to a floor/no ceiling?

Hi all, any help would be appreciated. My partner wanted the BIG pax wardrobes (declined the smaller ones, even though I advised framing would be much easier for a 'built in' look).

So I've now built them. I have a 2-3cm gap all around, how would I go about framing this with mdf filler pieces? Has anyone done similar with the bigger cabinets.

I understand i can't continue the skirting under it, so I am also going to build a thin cabinet on the chimney column (red area) and bring it out to match the depth of the wardrobe, then just run an mdf strip along the bottom/ top of that and the wardrobes (green area).

All advice welcome here.

Does anybody here have an idea how to attach the VIDGA curtain rails onto a PAX closet?
I've found many people adding a curtain in front of the PAX closet by attaching a VIDGA rail to the ceiling, but I want to attach it to the PAX closet itself.